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Member postings for S.D.L.

Here is a list of all the postings S.D.L. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Reaming morse taper sockets
26/01/2017 08:43:12
Posted by Hopper on 26/01/2017 01:14:55:

I think the Morse taper drills you saw were most likely refering to a drill bit that has a Morse taper on the holding end so it fits straight into your tailstock without using a chuck. I have not come across a drill that will drill a tapered Morse hole, although they may be out there somewhere...

They do exist, I have seen them for MT2, 3 & 4 and actually have a Drill that is Tapered for drilling MT3 sockets and is on a MT3 Shank, I think its Dormer.

They appear on the second hand stalls at the ME shows sometimes. Mine was unused as the Black oxide on the cutting edges was unmarked.


Thread: Alexandra Palace this weekend
23/01/2017 06:51:51

Posted by Bazyle on 22/01/2017 18:54:04:

It never was at Wembley. This is the one that was at Picket's Lock and moved out 'because of the Olympics'.
MEX was at Wembley and moved to Ally Pally, then Olympia, then Sanddown, then Ascot, Sandown again now Brooklands.

Edited By Bazyle on 22/01/2017 18:59:37

This show went Pickets Lock, Wembly Arena then Alexander Palace.

Good Show had a full day Saturday


Thread: Slot Drill problems
16/09/2016 20:38:19

Posted by Nick Hulme on 16/09/2016 09:47:41:

End-Mill and Slot-Drill Milling cutters are not intended to cut slots exactly to their marked size, the way to mill an accurate width slot is to rough it out slightly under size and cut to the required width with light finishing cuts.

- Nick

Edited By Nick Hulme on 16/09/2016 09:49:00

Not what we taught at tech college, UK slot drills are made to a tighter tolerance than the USA ones to facilitate cutting slots in passes varying only in depth. They would have laughed at work if you used an undersized one then cut a bit each side. Why make cutter to precision dimensions if you only cut one side.

I believe that the cut one side cones from not locking the opposite axis or not using BS form cutters.


Thread: Portable engine by Tony Webster.
05/09/2016 19:02:11

Posted by fizzy on 05/09/2016 13:01:43:

Did anything ever come of this?


As Jason said it was dropped as there was lots of discussion re errors in the drawings. A book was subsequently published by Toby Webster but I don't know if the errors were worked on and removed or just published as was.


Thread: CE marking and Brexit
03/08/2016 04:30:21

Posted by Andy Ash on 02/08/2016 21:42:25:

Posted by Muzzer on 02/08/2016 19:23:27:

My understanding is that a mark like UL recognised or UL listed can only be used if a UL test house has directly evaluated a product for compliance.

By contrast, a CE mark can in many cases be self certified. No independent test authority required to mark the product.

If one were to gain a UL type approval, for example, it would likely be a significant basis for justifying self certified CE marking with little other work. Equally one could quite properly and justifiably self certify for CE without a UL type approval.

Is is notable that a self certified CE marking would likely be ignored by a UL authority, unless it was unjustifiably applied. Indeed you would probably expect them to "dob you in" to someone, somewhere who might actually care.

What is even more interesting about the CE marking is that different product classifications have differing levels of standard. The Underwriters Labs are pretty strict as I understand it. Given that they are a commercial entity they have to be. The quality and reputation of their mark depends on them upholding good standards, wherever is it displayed. The authority protecting the CE mark has no such concerns - in most cases.

I am afraid you are wrong in some cases here. If you build electrical control panels it could have a UL mark as part of a product assessment bu UL where their labs have checked it, but also panels can be UL shop where a factory can self certify the panels and apply a UL shop mark. Not so different from CE.


Thread: Which material spec's for boilers ?
02/08/2016 11:18:46
Posted by Roderick Jenkins on 02/08/2016 10:03:41:
Posted by ken king, King Design on 01/08/2016 23:25:42:

If a modeller builds his own boiler he doesn't need to use certified materials, can make it up as he goes along...

My understanding is that for the boiler to be insurable; it has to be to a recognized and established design or calculations have to be provided to show that the material thickness, staying etc are adequate to give the required safety factor. There does not appear to be a requirement to show traceabilty of the material specs but for silver soldered copper boilers I believe any commercially available copper will be appropriate. The boiler kit I have just bought from Blackgates contains no material certification. The situation for inspection and material certs. for welded boilers will be very different.

I'm coming to the conclusion that for a "commercial" boiler with a CE mark the inspector will assume that all the joints he can't see are good. For a "non-"commercial" boiler then the inspector will wish to see the quality of the joints that may be hidden on completion during construction and before they are sealed away.


Your first paragraph is fundamentally correct, but check if the drawings have blind bushes for the firebox door etc and if not discuss changing from tapped firebox to blind bushes with your club boiler inspector.

The best guide for checking design thickness / stay centers in the UK in my opinion is the Northern Association guide that you can buy for about a pound at some exhibitions, This may be adopted by the southern fed at some stage and was recommended at the joint boiler testers conference I went to.

We will test certified professional steel boilers but we will not certify a build at our club ( Banbury Model Engineers)


Thread: CE marking and Brexit
01/08/2016 18:40:34

Posted by fizzy on 01/08/2016 15:39:30:

It has just dawned on me that once we are out of the EU the requirement to have CE registration & certification will no longer stand for items built and placed exclusively on the UK market. I wonder what the SF will put in place of this for commercial boilers made within the UK - more red tape?

Could be a lot more from government. The level of expertise in the civil service for these sort of things has been reduced so there will be a period of hiring, then the laws passed under EU directives will have to be written into UK law with more chances of extra regulation or accept the EU rules under PED and have no say in there modification.

Remember the SF, NA and others got the model engineering exemptions for home built boilers.


01/08/2016 18:34:30

Posted by KWIL on 01/08/2016 16:16:29:

CE does not mean anything other than that the Maker has tested the items to the required standard.

So a simple statement can replace that. along with SF paperwork, no need for further complications. A private maker gets the Club Inspector to certify, a commercial maker (Preferably a Member of the Copper Boiler Maker's Association) merely states the same.

Good bye and good riddance to CE.

That is not the case with steel boilers as in traction engines, as if sold commercially a notified body normally checks the design, the welder qualifcation records and the final pressure test, along with possibly intermediate inspections.


Thread: Boiler Testing
31/07/2016 17:46:28
Posted by John Lintorn on 31/07/2016 13:26:09:
Yeah I have tested it up to 130psi but that's as far as my compressor goes. I really do need to take my work to my local club but, being in the navy it's not easy to find time to do so.

If you are making a hand pump for the loco use that, it will test that the pump works as well. A gauge bought from a hydraulic hose factors will do for a look see but it won't be calibrated but would allow you to check before going to your club inspector.


30/07/2016 19:54:41

Posted by duncan webster on 30/07/2016 18:51:03:

Posted by John Lintorn on 30/07/2016 18:31:53:
Ahh well there surely aren't any laws against running it without a certificate?

Do what you like in private, but if you hope to run it in public you'll need insurance, and you won't get insurance without a boiler ticket.

Quite hard to ensure private. If the meter reader or repair man was around due to a visit to do something paid they would be at work. If the grand children or a niece was around when something went wrong would they sue.

Best solution is to get it tested at a club for your own pice of mind. Your going to have to blank off all the connections other than the ones used for the times two test, but it's not onerous.


Thread: New drill chuck required for bench drill.
03/06/2016 11:29:53
Posted by Brian John on 03/06/2016 10:14:51:

I am after a better quality drill chuck for my bench drill. It was suggested on this site when I first bought the machine that I should look at buying a better quality drill chuck. Today I was told by Allied Bearings that the B16 taper is an old taper and no longer used much. Is that true ?

Can anybody recommend a good quality drill chuck : 1.5 to 13mm B16 ?

Edited By Brian John on 03/06/2016 10:15:18

B16 is a German taper standard as opposed to Jacobs JT1 JT6 etc

There are lots of B16 mount chuks Rohm are good Albrecht are amongst the best and will cost more than a Chinese drill press.

For model engineer pricing try Arc or Chronos hearhc chuck B16 in there websites.


Thread: TAP OD.
25/05/2016 02:07:31

Posted by chris stephens on 25/05/2016 00:15:41:

There is another reason for unusual size taps, Helicoil ones. Been there, done that! :>(

Then there is the oversize taps for items to be plated or galvanised.


Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2016)
09/04/2016 08:20:11
Posted by Michael Walters on 08/04/2016 16:43:43:

And a close up of the almost cleaned up one.


I only used a common butane/propane torch, i prepared the surfaces by sanding and fluxing the join, then i arrange them assembled on a 5 inch square block of mild steel i use, as i dont have a fire brick, then heated them both to cherry red and slowly poured the brazing wire onto the join.

Never successfully brazed before so i'm proud =)

Michael W

Edited By Michael Walters on 08/04/2016 16:52:44

Glad it worked. The steel will act as a heat sink, go to Wicks or any builders merchant and buy 2 lightweight building blocks (celcon or thermalite), you can saw the second one in half longways with a hand saw (wood) and make a mini hearth that will keep the heat in and make it easier and quicker.


Thread: 3D printing seems to have gone quiet. Where are we all at?
09/04/2016 08:12:41
Posted by Brian John on 09/04/2016 07:28:48:

That looks amazing. Has anybody on this forum actually used one ? The resins seem to be the soft flexible type rather than the ''harder'' type which I would find more useful.

Edited By Brian John on 09/04/2016 07:29:36

The Link claims soft and hard resin as well as a melt out one for lost wax casting. Looks interesting.


Thread: OT Recommendations for repairing Granite Work Tops
06/04/2016 15:56:05
Posted by JasonB on 06/04/2016 12:22:14:

What area are you in? The company that I get all my garanite, linestone etc from recommend these people and they have done work for a couple of my clients. They Refinished this table top that I made new legs for and the cabinet behind, the top had sat outside for a couple of years and was scratched and chipped, good as new now.

Hi I am In Banbury oxforshire.

I will contact them and see if they come up this far.


Thread: Multifix Tool System
06/04/2016 15:52:22
Posted by Steve Keys 1 on 06/04/2016 11:39:38:

Hi all Newbie to the site so please bare with me

I have upgraded from a ML7 to a Super7 MYFORD I am thinking of changing to a MULTIFIX QCTPH tooling system but having had problems with after market tool-holders from China that don't fit i need advise on

1 Dose anybody use this system on a MYford and the PROS & Cons

I have been in touch with Createtools who recommended the Aa size unit

I have also been in touch with PeWetools who recommends the ASD 1460 system

3 Which one do i go for???

As they a both made in CHINA what is the Quality like??

Any advise or comments would be helpful



I have the Aa from Create that I purchased direct just factor in customs clearance of about £25.

Will take a 10mm replaceable tipped tool and be on centre as a guide.

They will do a deal for kit and more holders sometimes.

I think the Rotagrip ones are the Create.




edit correct RDG to Rotagrip

Edited By S.D.L. on 06/04/2016 15:53:25

Thread: OT Recommendations for repairing Granite Work Tops
06/04/2016 12:09:22


We have chipped the edge of one of our Granite worktops, has any one got recomendations for a Firm or Trader that does repairs of High Quality.

Quality is more important tham price.



Thread: Simplex Restoration
22/02/2016 09:56:55

Posted by Jeff Dayman on 21/02/2016 18:14:01:

If a club inspector failed such a boiler I think it's time to join a different club. Tinpot dictators are ten a penny at many clubs of all kinds in my experience. When successful test results are overruled by such dictators and rule makers it becomes a losing battle and precious hobby time is lost (and any prospect of fun running an engine goes out the window).

JD (not a club member and never will be)

When calling people tin pot dictators it would be wise to consider that clubs need indemnity insurance for the boiler inspectors, and where they make a reckless decision out side of the guidance they would be personally liable. Its amazing how many people are not prepaired to be an inspector when they understand the responsibilities.


22/02/2016 09:47:10


Posted by Russell Eberhardt on 21/02/2016 11:46:40,

. What then is the point of the pressure tests?

. . . and people in the UK complain about having to meet European rules!

Russell (in France)

The pressure test forms part of the examination of a boiler and viewing during construction forms another part. At the Sourthern Fed and Northern Association Boiler seminar I went to it was recommended for the boiler inspectors to take digital pictures at the internal inspection stages.


Thread: Raw angle plate
26/12/2015 08:45:07

Buy a cheap finished one. The one I got (Groz) was at least a mm out and use it as raw material, it will be far better when finished. Look for a nice thick one then finish to a higher standard.


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