Here is a list of all the postings S.D.L. has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What nut and bolt material?|
This are of corrosion is complex. A good guide is the PRE no which is a guide to pitting and crevice corrosion resistance
As a guide
304stst is about 18
316stst is about 24 so 30% better but if at elevated temperatures would not be considered marine.
Generally if there was a problem on a swimming pool or sea water I would look for a PRE >40
This takes us to super Duplex such as SAF2507 or 254SMO which is like 316 but with more chrome and molly.
|Thread: Taper-Lock Bushes - tolerances|
h9 is clearly the intended shaft tolerance, I suspect the numerical tolerance is the range over which the taper locks should work
holding the h9 Will probably make removal easier if needed
The h9 tolerance I quoted is out the Fenner download. either way h9 or h8 top limit is 48.000
If you don't want to wedge open the the taper-lock the shaft should be h9 giving 47.94 to 48.00 so your shaft is a smidgen oversize.
Turn it down or open out with screwdriver.
|Thread: Hemingway Kits filing Machine|
Nice build log, keep it coming please.
|Thread: Electric vehicles|
Its going to happen, see the news the other day that BMW are moving all combustion engine manufacturer out of Germany and retooling for doing the electric power packs in Germany. The report suggested so the German workers were protected for the long term.
|Thread: Multifix toolholder Vendors|
I started with the create which was fine, then bought some more holders from Germany via Ebay and they fit pefectly, Paints a different colour but they were quicker and no carrier customs fee.
Using a genuine Dickinson that came with the lathe I occasionally got a Jam when parting, with the multifix straight through under power feed including 304/316 stainless steel.
|Thread: Hand drilling stainless steel 3mm thick|
Its Hard work but not this hard.
Need an old fashioned corded drill with two speed gear box. trigger control helps more.
use good drills Dormer A002 work well, they are like a split point multi facet, use cutting fluid like Rocol or CT90.
I was doing M10 Tapping size in 316L 10mm thick. 4 holes per plate 8 Plates, took an afternoon to drill and tap, used two sizes of drill 5 mm and tapping size. Hard work but keep the pressure on and change the bit as soon as it starts to rub.
|Thread: Parcelforce or DPD|
DPD every time as they will leave in a safe place. easier than going to he sorting office to collect parcelforce.
|Thread: Hydrogen-powered train makes UK maiden journey|
Peak generation and distribution Capacity is near 50GW, averahe use is 32GW and mininum draw <20GW so as long as cars are charged off peah there is a lot of capacity,.
The use of smart meters will allow for more management of who charges when, and faster charging stations are appearing at petrol stations now,
I filled in online survey with one of the fuel majors where I pay at the pump and they clearly see themselves as an Energy company, watch to see how much some of them shift to renewables.
|Thread: Stainless steel|
+1 Done the same been using it 2 or 3 years of fairly heavy B&W use and only on second bottle of ink.
|Thread: Is This a Tooth?|
Longest Dinosaurs tooth 300mm / 12"
|Thread: Warco WM280V-F Gearbox|
One of the interesting things with Barrys stripdown of the gearbox was the the O ring grooves, as the dimensions were decidly odd Barry sent me the dimensions and asked for my view on the circlips to use.
The dimensions were:-
Shaft :19mm Groove 18.5mm Width 1.3mm old circlip 1.0mm thick
The only one that is std that I could see is the 18/17 and that was after checking the imperial ones as well.
In the end I sugested the following sizes and comments.
Well all I can say is what a dogs dinner
If they don't look as if they will stay In place make a tapered mandrel out of steel
Hopfully now that everything is sliding properly the circlips will stay in place.
And the last part of Barry's journey back to a working lathe.
After final confirmation that the gear selectors were engaged and working properlye gasket sealing compound was applied and the rear cover panel refitted. Where the missing screw had been (original hole filled with sealer) I managed to extend the tapped portion of what was left in the casting and fitted longer screws which gave some purchase.
Gearbox and shaft taper shear pins refitted. Note table used for changing gear wheels. Corner removed to allow door to open, override block top right engages with safety cut out switch for testing, and banjo rests on the extended piece when pivoted forward. Final photo shows everything panelled up and ready for testing.
Posted by Steve for Barry
Refitting the front panel. I had removed the three knobs to give them a good clean. Each knob has TWO balls, a spring and a tensioning grub screw so care must be taken not to lose any part. These were removed before driving out the roll pins securing the knobs to their shafts.
I used some M4 nuts and bolts in place of the roll pins to position the gear selectors such that the selector arms would line up with the gear trains. The selectors were very loose, so to keep them vertical I inserted some 15mm lengths of bamboo skewer and slightly compressed them against the front panel with bolts screwed by hand into the tensioning grub screw holes. This method worked well.
The technique I found worked was once the arms were vertical it eventually becomes possible to get the actuating cams to engage whilst pivoting the front panel against the bottom of the gearbox housing. Full engagement could be confirmed by looking in a mirror positioned behind the gearbox (as in the last photo) then moving the selector knobs in both directions. Once comfortable with the positioning it was a matter of applying gasket compound to the previously cleaned surface of the gearbox, repositioning it in front of the mirror and repeating the pivoting motion and confirming again that the selectors worked correctly before refitting and tightening the 5 front panel retaining bolts.
Loaded by Steve for Barry
|Thread: What is this cutter used for?|
Revers sice chamfering tool on CNC. for deburring the far side?
|Thread: Warco WM280V-F Gearbox|
Considering Barry did a conversion to three phase motor and vfd that was covered in MEW. Before this happened it will be a far better lathe than when new and shipped.
Although I had read it elsewhere, I was surprised at just how ineffective the gearbox drain plug was. It is around 20mm ABOVE the level of the inner casting. This results in a large amount of residual oil cascading out when the front panel is removed. Someone had suggested adding a drain hole at a more appropriate position, so that formed part of my project. I decided to fit a magnetic drain plug and sourced one from eBay. It required an M12 x 1.5mm tapped hole. After some deliberation I drilled a pilot hole 19mm up from the bottom of the front cover in the mill. The panel was turned over and a 14mm mill, centred on the previously located pilot hole, used to produce a clearance for the M12 tap. The panel was again turned face up and a 10.5mm tapping hole drilled. The hole was then tapped perfectly square whilst still in the mill. The finish on the front panel although adequate for a panel face was not deemed good enough to guarantee a good tight fit when the magnetic drain plug crush washer was compressed, so a light skim with a 20mm end mill improved that area. I used a 20mm ‘Q’ cutter to produce the hole in the front aluminium cover plate, the centre of which had also been located using the pilot hole..
The last photo shows the reworked gear to the left on its keyway and the now smooth triple gear assembly on its shaft & keyway
Posted by Steve for Barry
Reminds me of the old 80/20 rule, get 80% of a broduct for 20% of the cost, its that detail that costs the money,
Making the missing gear
Whilst waiting for the outstanding gear to arrive it dawned on me that there was a perfectly serviceable gear on the old triple gear assembly with the correct number of teeth. It would require removal of two of the three gears from the shaft, boring and reaming the hole to 16mm diameter then milling to the correct overall width. The lathe was perfectly useable without the gear box, but I did miss the power fed when boring the hole out. These stages are shown in the photographs. Although it looks otherwise, the shot where the gear is being milled is actually ‘finger nail’ smooth and not scored across the diameter.
There only remained the lack of a keyway …. At last, an opportunity to use a broaching tool inherited from a former club member’s workshop for the first time. After a bit of research I found Michael Cox’s article on making a simple internal keyway broach (MEW Issue 184, page 47) and set about modifying a length of 16mm silver steel. The broaching tool travel was pretty limited so the tool had to be customised. I milled a 4mm slot into which I set a length of 4mm square HSS tool steel. I didn’t grind the end, but used it as purchased. An M3 grub screw approximately 20mm from the end of the tool steel is used to progressively advance the cutter into the work in minute increments. After a considerable amount of time, copious amounts of cutting fluid and two blisters, the task was completed. It was slow, hard work but well worth the effort in the end.
Posted by steve for Barry
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.