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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Brook Compton 1 phase motor KP6345
28/03/2020 19:02:07

Can you post up pics of the inside of the bearing housings in the end bells, should be able to sort it for you.


Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
28/03/2020 17:37:57

You need one of them nice halogen radiant heaters from B&Q!

Thread: Brook motor off Myford Lathe problem
28/03/2020 17:31:40

remove the two screws either side of the shaft, this will release the bearing plate and allow the rotor to be withdrawn from the other end. then tap the bell housing/ stator joint with a blunt screwdriver or chisel, and remove the bell housing and capacitor as one unit, sliding the capacitor out of its housing, beware, that packing looks a lot like the contents of the capacitor that have oozed out due to internal short in the capacitor!, may not be, but it pays to be cautious! wear gloves!


Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
28/03/2020 17:01:23

That pic is upside down innit?

28/03/2020 16:56:48

Hi Richard, If you put your multimeter across L1 and L3, and push the start handle down partway, you should see the coil resistance if all is well. if you then push the contactor in, and move the handle into the run position, you should continue to see the coil resistance.

Fekk! I can't see a dutch key either, Your pic is of the right place, but it is small, and it should be there somewhere, clean it all back to bright metal before you say it is definitely not there! I can see what looks like about a 1/3 of a hole with a thread in it at about 4.30. Allen bolt in the centre of the shaft is for holding the shaft still whilst adjusting the gears. Never had that one off mine, I assume it is loctited in.


28/03/2020 15:11:27

Hi Richard, We have one two many A2 connections! If the A2 terminal on the overload end of the contactor is common with the one on the other end (multimeter check, look for the same resistance between A1, and either of the A2 connections. and check with the contactor pushed down to make sure that it is not switched by the contactor) then it is a common and we can use that one. Remove the link between the other A2 connection and the 13NO(the one with the red wire in it) There is confusion here, because the two wiring diagrams refer to NC-09-95 and NC-09-95N and your contactor is an NC-09-10, an example of Chinese inscrutability if ever I saw one!

Alternatively, you can use the A1 and A2 connections on the same end of the contactor, and wire from that A2 to the NC on the overloads, then from the other NC overload contact to the 13NO. there should be only two wires at this connection, and it should not be linked to A2.

This sounds a lot more complex than it is!, referring to the diagram will make it easier. You only need use one of the A2 connections, as the coil only has two ends, one end goes to a supply line (A1 to L1) and the other end goes into the switching and safety circuits and uses them to get back to L3 via the yellow wire, and when L1 and L3 are across the coil the contactor pulls in, and the motor starts. rewire it like this and post more pics! Tedious, but then, what else can we do in the present "interesting" times?


Edited By Phil Whitley on 28/03/2020 15:12:47

28/03/2020 14:22:32

Hi richard, the dutch key is in a hole which is drilled between the steel shaft and the cast handle, half the hole is in the shaft, and half in the handle, and it is usually full of grime so you cant see it. I am looking at the wiring now, I will get back to you on that presently. Thanks for the pics re spindle removal, that gearbox heeds a good flush out!


Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
28/03/2020 13:22:47

Hi all,
Not done much due to the virus lockdown, I bet all the survivalists in the USA are rolling around their bunker floors, surrounded by food, laughing their heads off! I did get a day and a half in the workshop, made a cold frame for my daughters roof garden, she was pleased with the solid practical construction, but thought the aesthetics left a lot to be desired! Teenagers! There's no pleasing them! Like, comment, subscribe, enjoy! We live in "interesting" times.
East Yorkshire

Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
27/03/2020 20:35:34

Hi Richard, the reason you cannot get the handle off the shaft, and many have broken them trying, is that there is a difficult to see allen screw in the end of the shaft, between the shaft and the handle, acting as a "dutch key", when you remove this it comes off with ease, so check the hole to see if there is a second one in there!, but you must get it back in exactly the right place, or the gears dont select properly. Also I think the bolt needs to come right out of the handle, but can't definitely remember. In practice, it is a bit of a faff, but not impossible by any means. set the shaft right in to the gearbox, then fit the handle, counterintuitive, but makes it easier! Then check that the gears line up and mesh fully in each position. You can try a VERY gentle tap on a wedge or screwdriver to open the handle clamp slightly, but it is cast, and it will break, be carefull, try a bit of heat, hot air gun is good!


Edited By Phil Whitley on 27/03/2020 20:38:10

Edited By Phil Whitley on 27/03/2020 20:45:29

27/03/2020 20:27:34

Actually Bob, I got that from the original saying about triumphs, and British bikes in general!


Edited By Phil Whitley on 27/03/2020 20:36:33

Thread: Brook motor off Myford Lathe problem
27/03/2020 20:19:35

I think the capacitor case has a removable end cap which can be tapped or prised off to reveal the connections at the capacitor end, can you take a pic square on to the non drive end plate?


Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
27/03/2020 10:40:44

Nitrile gasket is a good idea, I am using a thick paper one, the first one leaked, but the cover on my gearbox was a very tight fit over the dowels, I have a feeling it might be a foreigner, fitted after the original was broken in an accident, one of the gear selector levers is brazed on the inside too! I improved the fit with some needle filing, and it is fine now, though there is a slight dribble from selector shaft at the end. It is British, of course it leaks oil!!


27/03/2020 10:05:34

Hi Richard, funny you finding a drill bit in the gearboxm I found a circlip jamming one of the slots, and a spacer, both parts of the gearbox, which had been removed, "lost" and the box reassembled without them! keep the drill bit, it will be old and good quality!


26/03/2020 16:18:35

Hi Richard, Yes, swap the contactor for one with a NO contact. Pity you didnt get the auxillary contacts supposedly "supplied" with it, as they would have done the job. turn the overload screwdriver switch from manual to auto. this means it will reset automatically when it cools down (although in practice it will probably never, ever trip) on the overload use 95 and 96, connect a link from the A2 coil connection to 95 and then put a link from 96 to one of the contactor NO contacts, along with the red wire from the C&D limit switch, if you follow the instructions, whilst looking at the wiring diagram I drew, it will make more sense! after this carry on as above! I bet your 3 phase hook up is on hold now! never mind, we will get there!

Been to the workshop for a couple of hours today, making cold frames for my youngest daughters roof garden. My woodworking skills are more "Creative" than precise!!


26/03/2020 12:08:57

Hi Richard, First off, I am confused!! the terminals 21 &22 should read NO, not NC, but I am hoping this is due to chinese confusion in terminology. put a multimeter across them, there should be no connection until you push the contactor down, if this is the case, they are NO, and have been labeled incorrectly.

Connect the incoming three phases from the rotary switch to L1 L2 and L3 fit the overload to the contactor to T1 T2 and T3, connect the motor wires to the three outputs from the overload

on the contactor, put a wire link betweenA1 (coil connection) and L1.

put a link from A2 (other coil connection) to one of the NC connections on the overload (Need a pic of the overload connections!)

Put a link from the other NC connection on the overload to one of the NO connections on the contactor holding in contacts along with the red wire from the C&D limit switch

Connect the blue wire from the C&D limit switch to the other NO connection on the contactor.

Connect the yellow wire from the C&D limit switch to L3 on the incoming side of the contactor.

With the end cover fitted, and the key switch on, check continuity between L3 and the yellow wire in the C&D limit switch, this confirms that the switches are working.

power up the lathe and lift the stop/ start handle, lathe should start and continue to run.

Press down stop start handle, lathe should stop.

start lathe again and turn off mains power, lathe stops.

turn on mains power, lathe should not restart until stop/start handle is moved to stop position, and then back to start.

This is a peliminary instruction set!! I need to confirm that the contactor connections marked 21/22 are actually NO, and close when the contactor is energised, and also need a pic of the connections on the overload to confirm the connection designations.

BTW! if you get it wrong it will simply not work As long as you have got the coil connections correct!

I need to go lie down for a bit!

If you compare the above instructions with the wiring diagram I did earlier in the thread, you will see they are in compliance.


Edited By Phil Whitley on 26/03/2020 15:23:06

25/03/2020 14:22:44

Maybe this, link

And feed the output to your existing led transformer. Drop an email to RS just to check that it will suit your use, but it looks good to me. Masses of transformers used on ebay!


25/03/2020 14:03:16

Yes, that transformer would work, but it outputs 12v AC, and you would need DC for an LED, so you would need to convert, to DC, or use some other light source. I always look for the simplest solution! Will see if I can turn anything up.


24/03/2020 20:15:55

AAAAAAARGH!!! have you connected the lighting unit to the two slidelock fuses? They will be 415 v or thereabouts! it will evaporate as soon as you put power to it! I assume that the lighting transformer is a 240v led power supply. Remeber that each line of the 3 phase supply is 240v, but between any two lines , due to them being 120 degrees out of phase, there is 415 or thereabouts. You would need (once again) to put a neutral into the machine which means using a 5 pin plug and socket instead of four, and 5 core cable as well. I would mount the transformer externally, plugged into a 13A socket, feed the low voltage into the machine, and use the switch you have fitted to the control panel to switch the output from the transformer to the light fitting.. The transformer originally fitted to these machines had a 415v primary, and 12 and 24v outputs, and some I think were 48V as well.

Lets not have any big bangs eh!


24/03/2020 19:58:48

Hi Again Richard,

You have ordered a new contactor, good! you can use the existing overload portion, as you probably know, just remove it from the old contactor, and fit to the new one. On the overload, there should be a pair of normally closed connections which is the switch that breaks the holding in circuit if the current becomes to high, probably marked NC with a switch symbol between them. It is pointless to assume that the new contactor will be the same wiring as the old one, so post up a pic when it arrives, and we will do the wiring diagram then.

Good progress, we will get there.

Stay healthy


24/03/2020 17:21:20

You could use a neutral, but better to get a 440v coil!

Phil, I am back in about an hour!

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