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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: British machine tools
03/08/2014 20:49:01

Colchester and harrison are now parts of the 600 group, and still make a range of lathes, http://www.600group.com/products/

Thread: motor giving problems
26/07/2014 21:12:39

Without seeing the lathe I couldnt tell, but if it is a Brooke Crompton 1 hp single phase the chances are it is a 1440 rpm, and doubling the speed most certainly won't do the lathe any good, and could overspeed and burst the chuck! More poles does not neccasarily mean more torque. Can you send a pic of the IXL lathe, I have had a look on google images, and they mostly look like they need a 2 to 3 hp motor... Do you have the countershaft with the fast and loose pulley as described on this page: http://www.lathes.co.uk/ixl/index.html If you do you should be starting the lathe with the belt on the loose pulley so that the notor gets up to speed before you put load on it. If the centrifugal switch is now working and it still blows fuses there is a fault somewhere, unless it is starting into a load it can't handle. Try starting with the belt on a different speed position. Has this motor worked ok on this lathe before, and the fault has just occured, or has the motor just been fitted?

Phil

26/07/2014 12:53:50

the number of poles is directly related to the speed, which is a function of the frequency of the supply.. In a full cycle a 2 pole motor will make one revolution per cycle so 50 x 60seconds is 3000 rpm, knock off a bit for various losses and you get an average speed of about 2850 rpm. A 4 pole motor will make 1/2 a revolution per cycle so the speed will be a theoretical 1500 rpm, which usually averages out at about 1440 rpm, the most common speed. If your motor is running at 1440 (check the rating plate on the motor) it is a 4 pole. The rotor moves one pole for every completed cycle of the supply. less the "slip" the formula is 120 x frequency over number of poles. The centrifugal switch switches off the start winding when the motor is up to full speed, if the switch was stuck in the on position it is possible that the start winding is burnt out.

24/07/2014 20:49:11

OK, just got the last post and see it was stuck bob weights on the CF switch! that explains it!!

24/07/2014 20:47:09

Whoaa there lads! A 1hp motor will draw more than its rated current on starting, but should not draw anywhere near enough to blow a 13a fuse. There is something wrong here! Are you starting the motor on load IE turning the lathe gearbox all the way to the chuck? If you are you either need a bigger motor, or you need to start the motor, then put the load on using a clutch or jockey pulley. Is the motor single phase? does it have a capacitor to start it? Can you send a pic of the set up. Roughly speaking, 1hp=746 watts=3.1 amps on 240Volts, you would expect a surge of maybe 6 to 8 amps on start up, but no way should it clear a 13A cartridge fuse. My clarke compressor blows a fuse on odd occasions if the unloader valve fails, but it is 3hp, so right at the limit of a 13A fuse anyway. Incidentally, fusing factor for a 15A fuse wire is about 1.5 times the rated current, so a 15 amp wire should blow instantly at 22.5 amps, not 32A. Hope this helps, More info will help to sort this problem.

Phil.

Thread: Notes to self
04/06/2014 11:14:53

Lines I had to write at school still apply after 50 years have got behind me.

I must concentrate on the job in hand!

Can also be seen in those (like me) who find solving other peoples problems easier and more enjoyable than solving your own. Sometimes this is because you enjoy the company! I still think it is because you can walk away from other peoples problems, but you are usually stuck solving your own problems by yourself. Hope that is not to deep or non understandable for this thread.

Phil.

Thread: Lathe work light broken how to fix
17/05/2014 19:20:45

The wiring in the stem will only be 12v insulation rated, and the 240V halogen GU10 type get incredibly hot. This is not a safe conversion at all. BIN IT!

Thread: Hoover electric motor/Denford Educator
07/05/2014 18:50:16

Is it out of a school? Most ex school kit is three phase, and it sounds very much like this is too. I will wait for the pictures, can you take the motor terminal box cover off and see if there is a diagram inside, and take a pic of the inside as well, also the motor rating plate if it has one. Red white and blue were used in uk three phase flex in the same era as the lathe is from. Is there any control gear, like a starter or isolator on the lathe? looking in there would give a clue too.

Phil.

Thread: Star Trek - inventing the Universe
07/05/2014 11:35:17

Saw this on the news this morning, interesting! I wonder if it could be used to give a reading of pest/herbicide levels in foods. It could put the junk food manufacturers out of business.

Phil

Thread: Myford ML7 replacement motor.
04/05/2014 12:47:37

Ok, single phase motor, to reverse you need to reverse the polarity of the start winding. The start winding is the red and black wires. You need to disconnect the red and black from the terminals and extend the two wires to the existing reversing switch, bring another two wires back from the reversing switch and connect them to terminals 5 and A, then wire the reversing switch so that it reverses the connections. I can't tell you how to do that untill I have a wiring diagram of the switch as I am not familiar with the Dewhurst type switches. If you can post it up I can work it out.

Hindsight is a wonderful thing! it probably would have been cheaper to rewind the old motor, epecially seeing as you have been ripped for the new one! I recently bought a recon motor for my compressor from a local rewinder for £60, single phase 3hp. Never mind, you have bought it now, go with it.

Phil

Thread: German Manufacturing Corporate Video Fail
03/05/2014 14:03:47

SCHIESE! Das ist leiben!

Been there! and have burnt ended screwdrivers to prove it, and I am, an electrical engineer. The trick is to keep alive! thats why you used to see engineers working on live equipment working with one hand in their pocket. Of course no one works on live equipment any more.......................................do they?

This actually looks like he forgot to switch off, his hand goes to the isolater pretty quick. I suppose it could have been left in as an attempt at german humour

Phil.

Thread: Electric Motor
28/04/2014 22:02:54

I see on one of the wires it says Z2, the usual set uo for this notation is A1 and A2 are the run winding. Z1 and Z2 are the start winding. to reverse the motor reverse Z1 and Z2. It is a "Kapak stayrite" motor made after GEC merged with AEI as "stayrite" was an AEI "brand", continously rated (will run continously without overheating). Are the two red/orange wires the capacitor? Google Kapak stayrite and you get lots of pics and info.

Phil

Thread: Antique oil can
28/04/2014 21:27:13

Hi, The Valve spout is the cap on the end of the spout which when tightened on to the spout, stops the flow of oil. when released it opens again. small brass knurled spout. Like this one!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Muller-Co-Valve-Spout-Oil-Can-Pourer-Oiler-Tin-Valvespout-Vintage-Greaser-Old-/221256022573

Phil.

Thread: Quality of drills
23/04/2014 21:53:35

No experience with Chronos, but I bought a set of tin coated drills in a metal hinged box from LIDL blush and the first job I had to do with them was drill 10 off 10mm holes through the edge of a heavy duty steel staircase. Not only did they go through it like butter, but the drill was unmarked when I put it back in the box. Still use them and can't fault them! 1mm to 12mm set for £9-99, can't find a link to them, but watch out in yer local lidl.

Phil

Thread: Colchester Student Roundnose Gear Oil
13/04/2014 18:13:20

whoops double double post post!

13/04/2014 18:12:44

Hi John.

AFAIK mine has straight 30 hydraulic oil in it, it does drag a bit when cold, but it is fine when warm. They are noisy! as you say there should be no graunching, but they do make a high pitch whine on the higher speeds. Mine is about the same vintage as yours. Check and clean the inside of the oil level sight glass because they often look as if the oil level is ok but what you are actually looking at is a stain on the perspex!

Phil

13/04/2014 18:10:59

Hi John.

AFAIK mine has straight 30 hydraulic oil in it, it does drag a bit when cold, but it is fine when warm. They are noisy! as you say there should be no graunching, but they do make a high pitch whine on the higher speeds. Mine is about the same vintage as yours. Check and clean the inside of the oil level sight glass because they often look as if the oil level is ok but what you are actually looking at is a stain on the perspex!

Phil

13/04/2014 12:33:33

Hi John, I also have a student roundhead, and I am not surprised the 3/4hp motor overheats on high speed, in fact I am surprised it turns it at all, as it should be a 3HP. You would probably get away with a 2, or even 1 1/2hp but I fear 3/4hp is pushing the envelope too far! They are good machines, and I am lucky because I have three phase. Good luck with it!

Phil

Thread: Bad Design ?
08/04/2014 19:32:55

Sorry, I wasn't familiar with the "outrunner" motor, got it now, but you have me baffled, something to do with a wind tunnel perhaps?

08/04/2014 19:20:29

Yes, I can see it is a turbine blade, but I am puzzled as to what the motor is, I will look at the other thread.

Phil

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