By continuing to use this site, you agree to our use of cookies. Find out more

Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: CovMac Lathes
29/11/2014 20:23:28

Also meant to say(before I "went off on one" that the quoted amperage on a motor is the FLA or full load amps, I would expect it to draw somwhere around 8 to 10 amps in this type of machine, although you can't rely on that, the 16A socket is a must!

29/11/2014 20:19:17

Ah, You have all been posting! I agree with Brian, get a replacement starting capacitor, that one has hung around for years without starting, and they go of with a bang like a thunderclap, followed by a shower of aluminium foil conffetti, liberally sprinkled with (possibly) PCB's.(look it up on wikipedia and be horrified) What Neil says is also correct, we have discussed a 16A socket for the motor in emails I believe. Also what he says about the MCB being the delayed type (type B or C) but take advice on this as my knowledge on these little monsters is not bang up to date. I know that VFD's and phase convertors play havoc with them (and RCD's), and TBH I don't believe them to be anywhere near as safe as we are led to believe, there used to be a rule that "any mechanical device fitted to an electrical circuit in order to provide a level of electrical safety MUST FAIL SAFE. Of course that was under the old IEE regulations, which have now given way to the IET regulations and this requirement has dissapeared. Needless to mention then, that a significant number of the IET board are manufacturers, not engineers, and both MCB's and RCD's do not fail safe, wheras a fuse ALWAYS fails safe. So if a fault develops, and your MCB is faulty, the only protection you have left between you and the transformer way out in the network is the supply authorities "cutout" fuse, fitted on the incoming supply next to your meter, and rated at between 60 and 100 amps! In a few short years, if not already, those MCB's and RCD's WILL be "Made in China" Then the fires and deaths will start. Fetch the screens Nurse, he's ranting again!!


29/11/2014 19:43:31

Hi Chris, To strip and rebuild the EE motor, proceed as follows:

Clean up the pulley and shaft at the drive end, and remove the key, with a lever if it has a tang on it, with a pair of molegrips if it hasn't or the tang is broken. This may involve warming the pulley with a blowlamp and tapping the pulley a little further on to the shaft to free the key. Believe it or not they usually come out quite easily. Once the key is out, clean the end of the shaft to bright metal, remove any burs, and remove the pulley. Behind the pulley, and at the other end in th same place you will see the three screws or bolts visible in your pic that locate the bearing covers. These usually go right through the motor end plate casting and screw into a bearing retainer plate inside the motor. Remove these screws at both ends. Clean the outside of the motor and, at the drive end, put a single centre punch mark adjacent to one of the through bolts (The ones that go right through the motor and hold the end caps onto the stator) on the end cap, and a matching mark on the stator. Now go to the non drive end and put two punch marks adjacent to a through bolt, and two on the stator. These marks are for reassembly to make sure it goes back together in the same orientation it was originally assembled in. If you look carefully, these marks may already be there if the motor has been stripped previously. When you have done this, remove the four through bolts, and you should be able to use a hide faced or copper/lead mallet to split the motor by gently tapping the end cap flanges with a brass drift, or the soft hammer if you have one. I used to use compressed air (and a mask!) to clean out the dust, but someone pointed out that a vacum cleaner is better, and I can't argue with that as long as all the dust and debris is carefully removed from the windings. It can then be washed out with water free alcohol (anhydrous alcohol) and set aside somwhere warm to dry.Wash the end caps and other components in parrafin or engine cleaner (or diesel or central heating oil), and carefully wash out the bearings, bearing housings and grease holes with parrafin and examine the bearings for any signs of pitting, corrosion or rough running when you spin them. By the way, If the bearings stay on the rotor shaft, there is no need to remove them unless you need to replace them, All this can be done with them in place, we used to take them off most of the time, but we had the equipment! If there are cooling holes through the rotor, clean these out thoroughly when you clean the rotor.

Examine the stator windings, and the tails that go from the windings to the connector block where the cable attaches to the motor. If the insulation on these is cracked or "sticky" they can be sleeved with glass fibre sleeving, or replaced with new cables, which are soldered to the ends of the coil windings. If you remove the tails from the connector block be sure to mark them up so you can put them back in the same place. Now is the time to get the stator megger tested to confirm that the windings insulation is still good. Once this is confirmed, and all the parts are cleaned, you can begin reassembly. If it fails the megger test, send the whole motor for a rewind, not just the stator, as this will enable the rewinders to rebuild and test the motor (thus saving you the following

Firstly, with clean hands, repack the bearings with HMP (high melting point) grease used for car wheelbearings and available at you nearest halfords or probably much cheaper from and independant car store! There are two ways to proceed, and TBH I have used both, and it makes very little difference. Some people prefer to put the rotor back into the stator first, then fit the end caps (I usually do it this way, especially with really big motors) others will fit the rotor to the drive end end cap (the one with the single punch marks) then fit the bearing retainer screws, and fit the assembly to the stator. Line up the punch marks and then align the bearing retainet plate with the screw holes in the rear end cap and fit it to the stator, lining up the punch marks again. Loosly fit the through bolts, then put one of the bearing retainer bolts through the holes in the end cap (without fitting the outer plate, and see if you can pick up the thread in the bearing retainer plate You can isert a peice of bent wire through the vent slots to hold the plate against the end cap, and check for alignment with a long thin screwdriver (this process is usually much easier than it sounds here!)once you have one bolt started, put another bolt through the outer plate, and fit that to one of the other bolt holes, then remove the first bolt, and swing the plate into place. Once all the bolts are in loose, tap the endcaps a bit further onto the stator making sure they are going on square, and toghten the through bolts alternately and diagonally, checkin the rotation as you do so. tighten the bearing retainer bolts and refit the pulley loosely. do the final alignment when the motor is back on the lathe.

I then used to pass them over to Mick, who used to spend the last hour of the day testing them and spraying them in "Jeffersons" Blue. Motors from 1 to 10 HP we used to do four a (good) day, but that was in a fully equipped (well, they said it was!) workshop. Good luck!


Thread: Portable steam cleaner
18/11/2014 19:26:27

we have a polti vaporetto, steam cleaner which is excellent on carpets and car interiors, it easily delivers enough steam to make short work of this, but you would need to glove up!


Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
16/11/2014 20:08:13

Come on Alan, you are teasing us now, what industry did you work in?


Thread: CovMac Lathes
16/11/2014 19:18:18

I did want to convert to 3 phase but the price of a new 3 phase 750 rpm motor is about what the lathe cost me! I may go along with this one till I can get summat else.


16/11/2014 19:15:10

my motor, note the round bakelite knob for speed adjustment, it is 230V 2hp 500-1000 rpm If you turn the speed adjustment far enough it reverses the motor. Speed adjuster moves part of the brushgear around the commutator.

I need to be more carfull when I am pointing the blockwork above the motor with no terminal cover on it Actually it is missing and there was a worrying amount of swarf in there when I got it!


Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
16/11/2014 16:18:12

teeth 2 RESULT!!


Thread: CovMac Lathes
16/11/2014 14:37:00

Right Chris,

Had a look at the motor, and I am not sure if it is the same as the one on mine, but I will be back at the shop later today, so I will look. My motor has a direct on line Allan West starter. Yours seems to have the AEI stayrite starter box with it, if this is the starter for that motor make sure you get it with the lathe! On the motor, you can probably get the grilles of and blow through with compressed air (wear a mask!) There is nothing you need to do to bring the motor up to modern standards (which TBH are not as high as they used to be anyway, but thats another thread!) Given a bit of volts drop on the probably too small supply cable to the shed, I am not entirely surprised it blew the house fuses, but it wants checking out before running.

Martin, if you look at the lathes uk pics then flip it round, that bolt does seem to me to be in the right place, and you can perhaps see the end of one of the pegs just to the left of the shadow of the gearchange knob, but you will find out tuesday anyway. Constant loss oil system in the sc gearbox, so there wont be much in it but muck 'n swarf. Looking at the lathes UK pic it does look like the leadscrew will come out when the taper pin is driven out, and it looks like the feedshaft is keyed into the gearbox as on mine there is a keyway visible in the boss that the feedshaft goes into. I think the "sliding gear outboard of the feed box" remark refers to the two gears which can be seen on the back view which are in the seperate case where the feed and leadscrew emerge from the box.

15/11/2014 22:34:43

If you send me a pic of the motor, or post one up, I will be better able to tell you.. Basic stuff, as it has been unused for some time, put it somwhere dry and warm if possible, to thoroughly dry it out. Spin the shaft whilst listening to the bearings with a long screwdriver, metal end on the bearing, handle placed onto your ear (not a joke, you will be amazed what you can hear). If the motor is totally enclosed, give the bearings a couple of shots with a grease gun. and then get it "megger" tested to check the integrity of the insulation. If the motor is a vented frame, have a look through the vents for dust, dead mice etc, and blow through the vents with compressed air to clean it out.


Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
15/11/2014 22:25:54

Yes Dave, It is possible, but it is not paticularly easy, and requires patience.You need to learn your machine, and start making or turning things on it. You will know when the lathe is less accurate that you are. As I said before, don't get hung up on accuracy, just have fun, play, and you will get better and more accurate. Do you have anything you want to make? What do you intend to use the lathe for? I will stick my neck out and say that a twenty year old Harrison is better than a new one because it was all made in England! If I am wrong, I am sure someone on here will correct me


15/11/2014 20:12:45

Yes Alan, you are right, but is this an old lathe or a new one?, and it has just been moved and installed. If it is old, we don't know the state of wear, if it is new, it is likely that the bed was cast in china, and finish machined and assembled in the UK. Bed castings used to be matured for 5 or ten years to alow them to normallise, this is no longer done. A machine tool Manufactured to "Schlesinger" limits will not retain those limits if it transported and resited badly. The OP is merely trying to do the job properly My Colchester manual goes into detail on siting the machine, levelling, performing these tests, and how to correct any errors found. This should be done with every machine tool, new or old, after delivery and installation


Thread: Vapour barrier and insulation for new workshop
15/11/2014 19:46:18

Hi Nick, I wouldnt use rockwool as you only have 3" to play with, you need to leave a gap against your outer skin and if you compress the rockwool, you squeeze the air out of it, and it is the air that does the insulating, use 2" jablite (polystyrene) or 2" kingspan/cellotex if you are feeling flush with cash! As peter says, breathable membrane on the cold (outer) side of the insulation, or visqueen dpm on the warm side of the insulation. Plasterboard is cheap, but cold, and absorbs moisture, I am using 3.5 mm wbp plywood on my ceiling in the workshop, in the form of damaged caravan/portakabin sheets 7x4 available form the surplus suppliers, they have bumped corners and some banding marks, but they are new, and about £3 to £4 each.. I am putting in 3" jablite between the roof joists, 2" jablite between the wall ones leaving 1" gap against the outer caldding, then a visqueen membrane (builders polythene) and finally the inner skin.

Thread: CovMac Lathes
15/11/2014 19:28:08

No problem Chris, any excuse to play with "toys" and I'm there! The camera is really nothing special, it is an Acer solid fun CL6330, but I do use the macro setting for close shots. The problem with the fixing bolt shots is that it is dark inside the gearbox, so the camera cannot "see" enough to focus properly. Also checked my new outside auto lights while I was there the second time, first one comes on as I park the car, second one as I arrive at the door.................Perfic!


Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
15/11/2014 18:30:22

Exactly right Dave, it is a job that requires time and concentration, and it can be very rewarding, but always have in mind the accuracy you NEED to achieve as opposed to that which you WISH to achieve. If you shim with ally beercan you will find that an extra tweak on the holding down bolts makes an adjustment, but above all, don't sweat it! engineers work to a tolerance, not perfection!


15/11/2014 18:06:03

Forgot to say you need to lock the carriage and cross slide (tighten gybs if no lock) and use the compund slide, which must have minimal play in it!


15/11/2014 18:00:49

Have you checked the runout on the three jaw chuck? Even the best new 3 jaw chucks are only good to about 3 thou concentricity. Find a good parralell round bar of 3/4 or more, set it up in a 4 jaw with a clock guage to as near to zero runout as you can, then do the turning test, and remember the old adage "the most accuraute chuck you have is a 4 jaw"

Is this a new m300?. If you mean the leveling screws on the pressed metal cabinet, they are for levelling the bed only, not taking twist out of the bed. If you suspect the bed, do the above with a 4 jaw, and then slacken the bolts that attach the lathe to the cabinet and see if there is a difference. Try placing a bar of known goodness between centres and then running the DTI along it from end to end (lathe stationary). now tighten the bolts that hold lathe to cabinet whilst watching the DTI and see if there is aany movement on the dti. If there is you need to place shims under the bolts, and watch again as you tighten down. Ideally there should be no movement from the dti as you tighten the bolts, which means that the bed is not being twisted as they tighten. Now you have the bed in its "relaxed position, try the turning test, work out which way the bed needs to twist to improve the readings, and adjust the shimming to suit.


Thread: CovMac Lathes
15/11/2014 17:36:07

Hi Chris, Brian and Martin,

Hope these pics will help,


Half nuts disengaged.

Half nut engaged, but I note that your lever is in a different position to mine on the shaft, so I will add "move clockwise to engage the half nuts with the lead screw, anticlockwise to disengage"!

Lower fixing bolt, you can see half of it peeking out from behind the selector lever/spindle

You can see all of the bolt head here( rusty blurry as it is!), with the selector moved to the other end, you may be able to get a socket onto it with a ratchet and a universal joint, but you cant get to the right hand one anyway so it will be best to remove the bottom plate.

Hope this helps guys! I had to go for some firewood then I forgot which way round the lever worked, so I had to go back again, but I have had a message to say that Richard the joiner is coming in the morning (Sunday!) to fit the new front door and frame, which is excellent, so I needed to check if I had enough cement, know what I mean!


14/11/2014 17:22:46

Hi Chris, I will be there Monday, and will have a look.


14/11/2014 16:28:46

Hi Chris, an example of the hole and bar lifting system used on a very heavy bit of kit!


Magazine Locator

Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!

Find Model Engineer & Model Engineers' Workshop

Latest Forum Posts
Support Our Partners
Eccentric Engineering
Rapid RC
Eccentric July 5 2018
Subscription Offer

Latest "For Sale" Ads
Latest "Wanted" Ads
Get In Touch!

Do you want to contact the Model Engineer and Model Engineers' Workshop team?

You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.

Click THIS LINK for full contact details.

For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.

Digital Back Issues

Social Media online

'Like' us on Facebook
Follow us on Facebook

Follow us on Twitter
 Twitter Logo

Pin us on Pinterest