Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Hang in there Brian, We went to the National neurological Hospital in London in January to try and get to the bottom of my wifes paralysis problem, so I know what it's like, but only from the outside as it were. Mind you, if it wasn't for the NHS I would have checked out long ago, what with a car accident when I was 6 then tonsils and addenoids (very fashionable in the fifties) a failed kidney, then cataracts, and a detached retina, and I very carelessly lost my appendix as well! Thinking off you mate!
|Thread: Screwcutting Clutch for Myford Lathes|
My thoughts exactly when I was reading the book. Neil, in that Martin modified his lathe to produce batches of threads commercially amd could knock them out at a fair rate. Electronic leadscrews, stepper motors and the like are ok.......till they go wrong! You know where you are with gears and clutches.
|Thread: Induction motor problem|
I was Gifted (?) a small chinese bench pillar drill, on which the motor was awesomly noisy, especially for it's tiny size, they are in fact very poorly made, usually out of balance to some extent, and also poorly wound, which is where a lot of the noise actually comes from, and there is a good chance that the replacement will be just as bad. If it is a single phase AC induction motor, see if you can source one locally that is British made and will fit the available space.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Funny you should say that Muzzer. I had a look and came to the exact same conclusion!
|Thread: Moving a heavy lathe|
As has been said above, lathes are generally very top heavy! what I have done in the past is to remove the chuck, compund slide and tool post, and the tailstock, which reduces the top heaviness as much as is easily possible. I also remove any sticky out bits like handwhell handles or gearbox levers. I did not have the opportunity to unbolt either of my lathes from a stand, and if I had, I certainly would have done. I have used an engine crane in the past to both lift and move machinery, but I lift and then lower the machine onto two or three timber baulks placed across the legs of the crane, leaving some tension on the slings, then pull it rather than push it! If you are going over concrete, sweep it well first with a good stiff brush, and make sure the crane wheels are perfectly free and well oiled. if the concrete is rough, use a couple of sheets of shuttering plywood and rollers. If you have to traverse grass, or paths too narrow for the crane, use two scaffold boards slightly wider apart than the width of the machine, and use rollers. Always wear gloves and take your time!
|Thread: Cromwell lathe|
Oh yes that does look nice, you lucky man! We would all love to see some photos of your lathe and the rebuild, and it is easier to answer questions when we have "summat to look at"
Good luck with it!
|Thread: Rust Treatment|
Hi Chris, Beware!! can you tell me what car it is, and where the rust is, or even post up a picture? If this is ONLY stone chip damage, and you know the metal underneath is sound, as the others have said, anything with phosphoric acid in it will remove it, then use a product like "Davids" zinc rich primer or similar.
If however the rust first appeared as bubbling in the paint it is almost certainly rust which has come right through the metal of the panel, or an earlier repair which has not been done properly, and will require either a welded in repair, or filling with a reinforced matt and resin type filler after all the rust has been neutralised and treated or removed. Don't wish to be negative about this, but going out to spend a few minutes fixing some rust then coming back with a long face and a hole in your pride and joy is not a good way to spend your Sunday! I spent a large(too large!) part of my life rebuilding rusty motor cars and have welded everything from an Aston Martin DBS V8 to a Citroen 2CV.
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
What you have to do Ian, is break the bottle in half so it has a nice jagged edge, then jam the halves into the hole with the sharps facing out and fill with mortar, then put a steel sheet at either side till the mortat is completely hard. If the mortat is at all soft they will have it, and the glass out again. Doesn't always work, and they will try to make holes alongside it if it is on a route to food, but you have to make everything as hard as you can for them. Remove all the cover, and all the available food and they will stop breeding so fast, then poison em! I know they are animals and all, and have a right to live, but they can wreck buildings in a short time, and they are dangerous!
|Thread: Short arms long pockets|
And now you will have to tell us why you have a wooden tailstock, you're not being tempted to the ...........dark side .......are you? Please say it isn't so!
From Pudsey, but now happily dwelling in East Yorkshire, though I have to admit, East is least, but West is best!
|Thread: Lucky to Have a Face|
Les Jones description is spot on, the fan and the back pressure in the bag provides sufficient resistance to keep the rpm down, take it off, and they will run to destruction! another fun thing we used to do at tech college was to rig a flourescent tube with a switch that removed the choke from the circuit by shorting it out, the tube gets brighter and brighter until..............................................Dont try this at home!!!
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
I should think they did Bl**dy well put it down for free, not the first timeI have heard that one either! Must admit a couple of cats or a loose terrier round the place tends to keep them away, but my cousin has a kennels full of rough collies, and they have to be constantly vigilant towards the end of winter when the rats are desperate. I used to go "ratting" on a local farm with a .22 rifle ( not an air rifle!!) We used to get the ancient Yale loading shovel, put the bucket up in the air, put a pile of grain in the middle of the shed floor, climb into the bucket, and wait. after about 5 minutes we could shoot rats one after the otner as long as we had enough shells! the would walk out of cover, calmly climb over the bodies of their"comrades" who they had just seen shot and start to feed, they aint clever, they're just feeding breeding machines! They like bird food and they will chew through almost anything to get to dog biscuits! the farmers round me used to block up the holes in brickwork with broken bottles in the mortar so they couldnt get it out again!
|Thread: Riston Milling Machien|
There is some info here!
If the size is good for you, and the price, and of course the machine is not worn, go for it, The Tom senior E will be much more expensive, I would think.
|Thread: A workshop idea for the short sighted|
Ah Neil, thats my problem, my nose isn't long enough!
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
Hi Chaps, just a few pointers for getting rid of "unwelcome Guests" in the shed or workshop. First off, rats etc will live within six feet of a food supply if they can, so remove any possible food source, keep dog/bird/pet foods in a metal container with a tight fitting lis, a metal dustbin is ideal if you keep a lot. plastic is useless, they WILL chew through it. Spray any areas that have seen activity/droppings etc with strong smelling disinfectant, I use jeyes fluid diluted and they don't like it. For trapping I use bait boxes, although the problem of them dying in inacessible places is a perrenial one, they work, and the smell only lasts a couple of weeks. Find where they are getting in and block it up. Clear any piles of junk or rubbish and have a really good tidy up inside and out, rats especially dont like having no "cover" they can quickly dart into. You can buy animal safe rat poison if you have pets, it is made from ground up maize husks and molasses, and is only poisonous to rodents, so if you have cats or dogs, use that instead of the commercial chemical poisons. If rats are getting in to your property from an adjacent one, like a neighbours/farms who have animals, and arent too careful about how they feed them, have a word, as this quicly can become an Enviromental health issue, although in most areas councils only deal with rats if you pay them, enviromental health rules can be used to get someone to clean up their act if you can show that the rats are coming from there! The reason rats and mice chew cables it that they think they are pipes! they will chew a plastic pipe until they make a tiny pin hole in it, and then drink there. I have replaced miles of Alkathene pipe, especially in old fashioned piggeries which had been gnawed all over the place. Feeding wild birds is a sore point, it is a good thing to do, obviously ( my mother does it, be she also gets rats in the shed!) If you can come up with a way of putting something under the bird feeders to catch the waste food, and recycle or otherwise get rid of it, this helps enormously. If you make them unwelcome enough, and starve them out, they will go looking for easier pickings. If they don't take the hint, poison the little buggers!
|Thread: A better lathe ....|
Quite agree Neil, but the question was "who's done it" not "who scribbled some ideas on the back of an envelope" Leonardo also sketched out the ideas for a helicopter, although not for one that would have flown very well, but it would have worked, there are however, no Da Vinci lathes or helicopters in the South Kensington science museum
Hi all, Just to flip back to the begining, about building a lathe to make a better lathe, the answer to the "who's done this" question is Henry Maudsley, who built the first screw cutting lathe with a hand cut leadscrew thread, and immediatley used it to cut a better lead screw thread, which was then fitted to the lathe, and the process repeated.
|Thread: rapidor help|
Hi Julian, I have a Rapidor, from your description of the two threaded holes this sounds like a taper lock bush, can you post a picture, as there is quite a variation in designs and fitting on rapidors.
|Thread: ML7 Motor - what would you do?|
PS, have you looked at the other end of the motor, it would be unusual for the connections to be there, but you never know.
Hi Peter, they usually dip the whole stator in varnish, agitate it, wait till the air bubbles stop rising, then lift it out, let it drain, and when the varnish has "tacked off" they bake it in a stoving oven. Rewinds nearly always come back with a nicely varnished rating plate.
The motor has been rewound at sometime in its life, the varnish on the rating plate is a dead giveaway. the motor would have been star connected for high voltage, and delta connected for low voltage. Obviously this cannot be done with only three connections available, so it looks like it has been rewound in star only configuration. strip it down and see if you can find the other connections.
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