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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What did you do today? (2014)
05/12/2014 14:53:49

I think that must be an old "Anvil" Tradition Bob, At my Anvil Arms in Wold Newton, East Yorkshire, also in the seventies, if you carried it into the bar and back you got a free pint, If you could carry it round the pub and put it back on the stand out the front, free beer all night! Couldn't be the same pub could it?

Phil Whitley,

Thread: CovMac Lathes
04/12/2014 18:28:55

Yes Brian, the hairhas been the bane of my life, very fine, very flammable with texture like 5 amp fusewire! I was called "hair bear" "Frizz/Fuzz" and when I started work "Bubbles" Now the boot is on the other foot, because a sizeable number of my mates are balding or bald, and at 62, I have dreadlocks down to my A*se and beyond ,which all go safely in a snood (well one leg of my daughters worn out tights actually) and down the back of my overalls. I look like one of the twins from Beano's "Lord Snooty"

Phil

04/12/2014 15:53:48

Hi Chris, Roger et al,

My first lathe was a DS&G 13Z much older than Rogers immaculate machine and with some front casting damage to handwheels and the SC gearbox. But it turned beautifully, and was a great machine to learn on. Yes, that is me in the picture, but that was in the 1970's............ Can uou tell where I ran out of green paint? Still in the same workshop, but the damp patch has been fixed now

Phil

Thread: Colchester Chipmaster wiring diagram
02/12/2014 11:25:47

HI Bob, there are three windins in a three phase motor, usually labelled A B and C. The winding connections are marked A1 and A2. B1 and B2 and C1 and C2. Connect A1 to B2, B1 to C2 and C1 to A2. You now have the motor connected in delta. Connect one phase to each of the three junctions and test. If the motor runs the wrong way reverse any two of the incoming supply leads. If this makes no sense send a pic of the motor connector, and any markings you can see on the motor leads, and the make of motor, and I will try to help.

Phil

UK

Thread: CovMac Lathes
29/11/2014 20:46:52

Don't worry Chris, It sounds a lot more complex than it actually is when you set it out stage by stage like I have done,

Don't wonder how to do it, get started and wonder how you did it!

Phil.

29/11/2014 20:34:27

Hi Chris, It's ok, I have calmed down a bit now, You and Neil have put your finger on why I wanted to convert my Covmac to Three phase, it is much more efficient, and therefore economical, but you also have to look at spending the money on extra power for the motor you have got, or spending it on a new motor at around £300, which buys a lot of electricity! I think I will go with Chris, and keep mine historically correct as well.

Phil

29/11/2014 20:23:28

Also meant to say(before I "went off on one" that the quoted amperage on a motor is the FLA or full load amps, I would expect it to draw somwhere around 8 to 10 amps in this type of machine, although you can't rely on that, the 16A socket is a must!

29/11/2014 20:19:17

Ah, You have all been posting! I agree with Brian, get a replacement starting capacitor, that one has hung around for years without starting, and they go of with a bang like a thunderclap, followed by a shower of aluminium foil conffetti, liberally sprinkled with (possibly) PCB's.(look it up on wikipedia and be horrified) What Neil says is also correct, we have discussed a 16A socket for the motor in emails I believe. Also what he says about the MCB being the delayed type (type B or C) but take advice on this as my knowledge on these little monsters is not bang up to date. I know that VFD's and phase convertors play havoc with them (and RCD's), and TBH I don't believe them to be anywhere near as safe as we are led to believe, there used to be a rule that "any mechanical device fitted to an electrical circuit in order to provide a level of electrical safety MUST FAIL SAFE. Of course that was under the old IEE regulations, which have now given way to the IET regulations and this requirement has dissapeared. Needless to mention then, that a significant number of the IET board are manufacturers, not engineers, and both MCB's and RCD's do not fail safe, wheras a fuse ALWAYS fails safe. So if a fault develops, and your MCB is faulty, the only protection you have left between you and the transformer way out in the network is the supply authorities "cutout" fuse, fitted on the incoming supply next to your meter, and rated at between 60 and 100 amps! In a few short years, if not already, those MCB's and RCD's WILL be "Made in China" Then the fires and deaths will start. Fetch the screens Nurse, he's ranting again!!

Phil

29/11/2014 19:43:31

Hi Chris, To strip and rebuild the EE motor, proceed as follows:

Clean up the pulley and shaft at the drive end, and remove the key, with a lever if it has a tang on it, with a pair of molegrips if it hasn't or the tang is broken. This may involve warming the pulley with a blowlamp and tapping the pulley a little further on to the shaft to free the key. Believe it or not they usually come out quite easily. Once the key is out, clean the end of the shaft to bright metal, remove any burs, and remove the pulley. Behind the pulley, and at the other end in th same place you will see the three screws or bolts visible in your pic that locate the bearing covers. These usually go right through the motor end plate casting and screw into a bearing retainer plate inside the motor. Remove these screws at both ends. Clean the outside of the motor and, at the drive end, put a single centre punch mark adjacent to one of the through bolts (The ones that go right through the motor and hold the end caps onto the stator) on the end cap, and a matching mark on the stator. Now go to the non drive end and put two punch marks adjacent to a through bolt, and two on the stator. These marks are for reassembly to make sure it goes back together in the same orientation it was originally assembled in. If you look carefully, these marks may already be there if the motor has been stripped previously. When you have done this, remove the four through bolts, and you should be able to use a hide faced or copper/lead mallet to split the motor by gently tapping the end cap flanges with a brass drift, or the soft hammer if you have one. I used to use compressed air (and a mask!) to clean out the dust, but someone pointed out that a vacum cleaner is better, and I can't argue with that as long as all the dust and debris is carefully removed from the windings. It can then be washed out with water free alcohol (anhydrous alcohol) and set aside somwhere warm to dry.Wash the end caps and other components in parrafin or engine cleaner (or diesel or central heating oil), and carefully wash out the bearings, bearing housings and grease holes with parrafin and examine the bearings for any signs of pitting, corrosion or rough running when you spin them. By the way, If the bearings stay on the rotor shaft, there is no need to remove them unless you need to replace them, All this can be done with them in place, we used to take them off most of the time, but we had the equipment! If there are cooling holes through the rotor, clean these out thoroughly when you clean the rotor.

Examine the stator windings, and the tails that go from the windings to the connector block where the cable attaches to the motor. If the insulation on these is cracked or "sticky" they can be sleeved with glass fibre sleeving, or replaced with new cables, which are soldered to the ends of the coil windings. If you remove the tails from the connector block be sure to mark them up so you can put them back in the same place. Now is the time to get the stator megger tested to confirm that the windings insulation is still good. Once this is confirmed, and all the parts are cleaned, you can begin reassembly. If it fails the megger test, send the whole motor for a rewind, not just the stator, as this will enable the rewinders to rebuild and test the motor (thus saving you the following

Firstly, with clean hands, repack the bearings with HMP (high melting point) grease used for car wheelbearings and available at you nearest halfords or probably much cheaper from and independant car store! There are two ways to proceed, and TBH I have used both, and it makes very little difference. Some people prefer to put the rotor back into the stator first, then fit the end caps (I usually do it this way, especially with really big motors) others will fit the rotor to the drive end end cap (the one with the single punch marks) then fit the bearing retainer screws, and fit the assembly to the stator. Line up the punch marks and then align the bearing retainet plate with the screw holes in the rear end cap and fit it to the stator, lining up the punch marks again. Loosly fit the through bolts, then put one of the bearing retainer bolts through the holes in the end cap (without fitting the outer plate, and see if you can pick up the thread in the bearing retainer plate You can isert a peice of bent wire through the vent slots to hold the plate against the end cap, and check for alignment with a long thin screwdriver (this process is usually much easier than it sounds here!)once you have one bolt started, put another bolt through the outer plate, and fit that to one of the other bolt holes, then remove the first bolt, and swing the plate into place. Once all the bolts are in loose, tap the endcaps a bit further onto the stator making sure they are going on square, and toghten the through bolts alternately and diagonally, checkin the rotation as you do so. tighten the bearing retainer bolts and refit the pulley loosely. do the final alignment when the motor is back on the lathe.

I then used to pass them over to Mick, who used to spend the last hour of the day testing them and spraying them in "Jeffersons" Blue. Motors from 1 to 10 HP we used to do four a (good) day, but that was in a fully equipped (well, they said it was!) workshop. Good luck!

Phil

Thread: Portable steam cleaner
18/11/2014 19:26:27

we have a polti vaporetto, steam cleaner which is excellent on carpets and car interiors, it easily delivers enough steam to make short work of this, but you would need to glove up!

Phil

Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
16/11/2014 20:08:13

Come on Alan, you are teasing us now, what industry did you work in?

Phil

Thread: CovMac Lathes
16/11/2014 19:18:18

I did want to convert to 3 phase but the price of a new 3 phase 750 rpm motor is about what the lathe cost me! I may go along with this one till I can get summat else.

Phil

16/11/2014 19:15:10

my motor, note the round bakelite knob for speed adjustment, it is 230V 2hp 500-1000 rpm If you turn the speed adjustment far enough it reverses the motor. Speed adjuster moves part of the brushgear around the commutator.

I need to be more carfull when I am pointing the blockwork above the motor with no terminal cover on it Actually it is missing and there was a worrying amount of swarf in there when I got it!

Phil

Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
16/11/2014 16:18:12

teeth 2 RESULT!!

Phil.

Thread: CovMac Lathes
16/11/2014 14:37:00

Right Chris,

Had a look at the motor, and I am not sure if it is the same as the one on mine, but I will be back at the shop later today, so I will look. My motor has a direct on line Allan West starter. Yours seems to have the AEI stayrite starter box with it, if this is the starter for that motor make sure you get it with the lathe! On the motor, you can probably get the grilles of and blow through with compressed air (wear a mask!) There is nothing you need to do to bring the motor up to modern standards (which TBH are not as high as they used to be anyway, but thats another thread!) Given a bit of volts drop on the probably too small supply cable to the shed, I am not entirely surprised it blew the house fuses, but it wants checking out before running.

Martin, if you look at the lathes uk pics then flip it round, that bolt does seem to me to be in the right place, and you can perhaps see the end of one of the pegs just to the left of the shadow of the gearchange knob, but you will find out tuesday anyway. Constant loss oil system in the sc gearbox, so there wont be much in it but muck 'n swarf. Looking at the lathes UK pic it does look like the leadscrew will come out when the taper pin is driven out, and it looks like the feedshaft is keyed into the gearbox as on mine there is a keyway visible in the boss that the feedshaft goes into. I think the "sliding gear outboard of the feed box" remark refers to the two gears which can be seen on the back view which are in the seperate case where the feed and leadscrew emerge from the box.

15/11/2014 22:34:43

If you send me a pic of the motor, or post one up, I will be better able to tell you.. Basic stuff, as it has been unused for some time, put it somwhere dry and warm if possible, to thoroughly dry it out. Spin the shaft whilst listening to the bearings with a long screwdriver, metal end on the bearing, handle placed onto your ear (not a joke, you will be amazed what you can hear). If the motor is totally enclosed, give the bearings a couple of shots with a grease gun. and then get it "megger" tested to check the integrity of the insulation. If the motor is a vented frame, have a look through the vents for dust, dead mice etc, and blow through the vents with compressed air to clean it out.

Phil.

Thread: Setting up the lathe accurately
15/11/2014 22:25:54

Yes Dave, It is possible, but it is not paticularly easy, and requires patience.You need to learn your machine, and start making or turning things on it. You will know when the lathe is less accurate that you are. As I said before, don't get hung up on accuracy, just have fun, play, and you will get better and more accurate. Do you have anything you want to make? What do you intend to use the lathe for? I will stick my neck out and say that a twenty year old Harrison is better than a new one because it was all made in England! If I am wrong, I am sure someone on here will correct me

Phil.

15/11/2014 20:12:45

Yes Alan, you are right, but is this an old lathe or a new one?, and it has just been moved and installed. If it is old, we don't know the state of wear, if it is new, it is likely that the bed was cast in china, and finish machined and assembled in the UK. Bed castings used to be matured for 5 or ten years to alow them to normallise, this is no longer done. A machine tool Manufactured to "Schlesinger" limits will not retain those limits if it transported and resited badly. The OP is merely trying to do the job properly My Colchester manual goes into detail on siting the machine, levelling, performing these tests, and how to correct any errors found. This should be done with every machine tool, new or old, after delivery and installation

Phil

Thread: Vapour barrier and insulation for new workshop
15/11/2014 19:46:18

Hi Nick, I wouldnt use rockwool as you only have 3" to play with, you need to leave a gap against your outer skin and if you compress the rockwool, you squeeze the air out of it, and it is the air that does the insulating, use 2" jablite (polystyrene) or 2" kingspan/cellotex if you are feeling flush with cash! As peter says, breathable membrane on the cold (outer) side of the insulation, or visqueen dpm on the warm side of the insulation. Plasterboard is cheap, but cold, and absorbs moisture, I am using 3.5 mm wbp plywood on my ceiling in the workshop, in the form of damaged caravan/portakabin sheets 7x4 available form the surplus suppliers, they have bumped corners and some banding marks, but they are new, and about £3 to £4 each.. I am putting in 3" jablite between the roof joists, 2" jablite between the wall ones leaving 1" gap against the outer caldding, then a visqueen membrane (builders polythene) and finally the inner skin.

Thread: CovMac Lathes
15/11/2014 19:28:08

No problem Chris, any excuse to play with "toys" and I'm there! The camera is really nothing special, it is an Acer solid fun CL6330, but I do use the macro setting for close shots. The problem with the fixing bolt shots is that it is dark inside the gearbox, so the camera cannot "see" enough to focus properly. Also checked my new outside auto lights while I was there the second time, first one comes on as I park the car, second one as I arrive at the door.................Perfic!

Phil.

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