Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe paint|
I use Tractol machinery enamel, available at all agricultural engineers and country stores, here is my Harrison mill in a delightfull shade of John Deere green, which is the colour it was when i go it, much cheaper than the special lathe paint (lols) being flogged to purists by some internet "enterprenuers". brushes or sprays really well, but needs to be sprayed in a warm atmosphere or it may run. There is also a huge range of colours in commercial transport paint which is a polyurethane synthetic enamel which is virtuall oil proof when fully cured, and is very hard wearing. find a local spray shop suppliers (paint wholesalers), and pop in for a chat!
|Thread: Learning to Weld...|
Hi Neil, Welding is mainly a simple manual skill, these videos are of limited use TBH. You are learning in the best possible way, by actually doing it. I assume you have no wish to work on gas pipelines? If that is the case, just carry on, and watch the welding websites if you have a problem. The only welding I was actually taught at college was oxy-acetylene. and that was a very brief safety talk about gasses and bottles, followed by a few hours practical training. One tip I will give you is try with and without your prescription glasses, I am short sighted, but weld without mine!
|Thread: Myford lathe values.|
Hi Mark P, if this is a limited company in the UK and the debt is more than £750 a winding up order costs nothing if he pays up on the THREAT of one being issued, and as the money is owed to you and another, you can be your own debt collectors. Usually the threat to issue a winding up order produces instant payment. Download and fill in the 6.27 form, and send it to the registered office of the limited company, saying that if you are not paid in full within seven days (provided you have submitted written requests for payment previously, if you have not, send a final demand for the full amount to his registered office, saying you intend to apply for a winding up order in 14 days if payment is not received, and send the winding up order form 6.27 14 days later) There is only one problem, and that is , is he trading profitably, if he has no money, and you do incur a fee for actually going to court to wind his co up, chances are you will not get it back but, you probably won't need to go that far. If for instance his equipment, or even his house are charged as security against his business, he will not want to be wound up and face losing his home! There are people in this world who will go to great lengths not to pay their bills if they don't have to. Trading as a limited company is not a good idea if you want to do this, as it is quite easy to collect. The sole trader who is not limited, has no money, and nothing with his name on it as owner, can get away with not paying bills, and is the typical blood from a stone case commonly known as a "Professional Debtor" (I was a registered debt collector for 10 years)
|Thread: Sharpening brazed carbide tip tools for the lathe.|
I fully agree with Breva, green grit will do it, but tends to leave a rough coarse edge, and takes longer, the white fine diamond wheels give a smoother edge, faster!
|Thread: Can Motor be used with VFD?|
Is it a Murad motor, it is certainly unusual?
Very interesting, ordinary motor turned inside out! the squirrel cage is in the stator and the induction coils in the rotor, used to create a high torque motor in a small frame size perhaps? any makers name on the motor?
|Thread: Safety glasses/guards|
T-cut or plastic polish applied with a soft clean cloth, and polish in straight lines, Water is useless, especially if you live in a hard water area. Also steer clear of isopropyl alcohol based glass cleaners. I have similar problems, and find this works for me!
|Thread: Can Motor be used with VFD?|
Just to add to my last post, Large slip ring motors used to be used for starting machines with high starting loads, or for driving machinery which needed to be accelerated up to the working speed more slowly than was possible with a direct on line type starter. The starter for a slip ring motor fed the rotor windings through a group of resistors which were switched out of circuit one by one as the motor and machine accelerated. These were VERY large motors, and they also had wound stators, this is a very small motor, with what I presume is a permag stator.. I am intrigued, any pics available?
regardless of most of the above, if this is an alternating current motor, single phase, slip ring or not, it is synchronous with the frequency of the supply, and a VFD, being a variable frequency drive, will vary the speed! What sort of lathe is it?
|Thread: Spot the connection|
hi steve, ok its not a problem, and this may sound obvious, but you are looking for the biggest lump in the windings, find where the tails that go to the connector block are solered to the windings, and look at the same place on the other side of the windings, and also at the other end of the motor, you cen cut the string binding and remove the taping, but keep bending of the wires to a minimum. when you find the star point, unsolder the connections, solder on some tails of similar size or larger, and route them into the connector box, then tape up the connections and tie them back to the windings with cotton string, and varnish them up to stop them moving , job done!
hi steve, before you hack into the windings, how many wires are there in the connector box on the motor? if there are six, you don't need to touch the wihdings
|Thread: repair,rebuild (replace)|
Dammit Nigel you beat me to it, thats exactly what I was thinking!
|Thread: Rcd use in workshop|
Woody, Congratulations on finding a sparkie who knows his stuff, they are rare nowadays!
|Thread: The Interesting Video Thread|
Barry Can't arf weld................................Bloody brilliant Nice to see there are some skills left!
Nice tool, superb build!
|Thread: another compressor question|
I have the same problem with my small compressor, which is a Clark with a 3hp 2860 rpm motor. If you use a contactor to control the feed to the compressor it will work fine a long as the contactor stays on till the compressor is full and switched off by the pressure switch, which also dumps the pressure between compressor and tank. If the contactor switches the power back on without dumping the pressure, it will blow the 13A fuse in the plug. This always happens when I am going round the workshop last thing turning everything off, and the compressor is running, and I turn it off at the wall instead of using the red pull up/push down switch on the pressure switch. Turn it of on the compressor, and it dumps the pressure in the feed pipe regardless of whether the tank is full or not, so when you restart, no problems. To put it simply you cannot control this type of compressor with a contactor on the feed. Why not put a long control rod from the switch to the outside of the soundproof cabinet, or use a cycle brake cable to operate the switch. There is a way round this, but it depends on using the switch on the compressor to control the relay in such a way that when you switch off the contactor, the compressor continues to run until the tank is full, the back pressure is dumped, and then the pressure switch interrupts the feed to the contactor, and the compressor will not restart, even if the pressure drops. when you next turn the contactor on the compressor will restart when it needs to, or instantly if the pressure has dropped overnight. Having thought about that it is getting so complex that it would probably be easier to remote mount the pressure switch and extend the air pipe to it. I will look at mine tomorrow, and may come back with a solution.
|Thread: Mill in need of some TLC|
well, they must have heard me, they have just cancelled the miller and the drill as "item no longer available!
Well Chaps, I think that this is one of those collections of machines that you would have to go and look at before you bid, because if these are machines that are just rusty, but otherwise good, they could be worth buying, but with the opening bids set where they are, I doubt if anyone would bother! Also if you were going to "clean them up for the buyer" then why wouldnt you do that BEFORE taking the pictures, and also move all the junk from around them as well! It never ceases to amaze me that people don't bother. When I first saw the pics of my Covmac, it looked awfull, but when I went to see it before buying it was obvious that it was just covered in a deep layer of muck and dust, with a load of junk around it, and after I bought it, most of it just washed off with parrafin and a bit of scrubbing, to such an extent that I probably won't even repaint it, but these guys have started the bids to high, and for the sake of a few days cleaning, could probably realise far more return than they are going to get at the moment.
|Thread: What is it about the Brits? From Jet engines to Warp drive.|
There is some doubt about who invented the Jet engine, as Whittles first patent of 1930 was published and circulated via the new patents publications all over Europe, and it is also known that University of Gottingen, where Von Ohain had studied and was then a research assistant, recieved a copy of this publication. If von Ohain was working on jet propulsion at the time, it is a little far fetched to suggest that he would not have read it! Von Ohains patent came out in 1936, and was internally different to Whittles, but then it would have to be or it would not be able to get a patent!
|Thread: Flame fast hearth|
Mine is like this one with the rotating top, Old school!
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