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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
27/06/2020 11:14:17
Hi all,
This week I get the test bar into the colchester lathe to check the headstock alignment, and also check the Covmac lathe. Some finishing off on the Socome welder, and then onto the Toro wheelhors tractor to continue the new transmission set up, , Friday afternoon, went to help Keith do a tip run and didn't get home till 8-00, hence this video being uploaded on Saturday! I'll explain the disaster next week!
Phil, Scorching East Yorkshire!
Thread: Halifax 524 Headstock
24/06/2020 15:18:12

I think that the idea that "it will never turn out good work" is completely erroneus. the only purpose these fixings serve is to hold the headstock down to the bed, the alignment and accuracy comes from the machined surfaces on the bed and the headstock. It will be neccasary to check the alignment after a fix has been done, but that would be the case if the headstock had been removed anyway. It is a sad case indeed, but if the OP is not getting a refund. and the lathe needs a rebuild anyway, what do you have to loose? I wish him evert sucess with it! In life, it is the journey that is enjoyable, not the destination, and a plague and a pox on the foul scumbags that stole from you!

Phil

Thread: Hylomar universal blue failed to seal oil?
23/06/2020 20:35:08

Both Hylomar, and red hermetite have been reformulate due to VOC regulations. I noticed the change in Hylomar first, because I have had a large bottle and brush style hermatite for years. TBH I find them now to be about as good as water based gloss paint, that is, effin useless! I have managed to obtain 3 tubes of NOS hermetite, but who knows what I will use for the hylomar jobs, maybe a loctite product?

Phil

Thread: Halifax 524 Headstock
22/06/2020 21:29:35

I would make a block of metal to fit inside the hollow heastock casting, secured with two allen bolts through the end of the headstock, and two into the bottom of the block from underneath the spindle, then clamp the broken peice back into position, and drill and counterbore through into the block with another two allen screws. Transfer punch through the threaded hole onto the block, then remove the broken peice, drill the block tapping size, replace the broken off piece, and tap through the existing thread into the block, and fit a longer stud.

For the broken ends of the bed, they will neede brazing back on, but first make up two plates to fit under the bed to spread the load to as much as possible of the unbroken area, then clamp the plate on and braze the casting back together, you are going to need a lot of pre heat, or you might do it by TIG brazing it. Awkward and time consuming, but I think it could be done.

Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
22/06/2020 21:00:24

File or grind the cracked area into two straight lines and it will be much less noticable. The bench centres hade a small piece missing at the extreme end of one of the slots, I cut it square with a cutting disk then filed it up and painted it up the the ground edge, it now looks like it was made like that!

Phil.

22/06/2020 10:50:15

No more alumilium as far as I am aware, just cast iron and steel, use good quality paint brushes especially for the finishing coats.

Phil

22/06/2020 09:41:46

Hi Richard, yes! because the etch primer goes on in a thin dust coat, it tends to be uneven and knobbly, and you must not rub it down, so you bury it in primer, and flat it when dry. Like Herman, I use a 2k acrylic primer filler to which you add a hardener, it is high build (the highest I have ever used in fact) and it blanks out repairs quickly and dry sands well. If you are brushing the tractol primer, stir it well, as it seperates and all the filler part of the primer will be in the bottom of the can, then brush many thin coats, allowing the recomended drying time between each. fill in the repairs with primer first untill you have got the repaired areas back up to the original paint level, then flat off and give the whole job a couple of coats, let it dry thoroughly! Then wet flat and top coat. If you dont prime the whole machine, the repairs will show through because they will be darker than the original paint. The advantage with spraying is that you can put 4 or 5 coats of primer on in a day, then flat next day because the hardner in the paint ensures full overnight curing. Check with your tractol supplier to see if they carry "accelerator" to make their paint dry faster.

Phil

Thread: Boxford motor help
20/06/2020 21:29:29

remember too that if your VFD outputs 240v 3 phase you will need a motor that can be connected in Delta, but if you go for the VFD with 415 volt output the motor can be run in star. Some modern small motors do not bring the star point into the terminal box, and therefore they cannot be connected in delta.

Phil

Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
20/06/2020 21:12:25

Richard, just read your new post, I have always stoppered or filled onto bare metal. You absolutley have to use etch primer on aluminium, it is optional on steel, but a good idea on cast iron, which has free graphite on the surface, wipe down the bare casting with a thinners damped rag and see the black come off! The etch primer is applied as a dust coat, one coat only, and you should be able to see through it, get spec sheet with the product you get for instructions, it should just tint the substrate, not blank it out completely. Any paint and filler which has been softened by the stripper will have to be removed, which is why I dont use stripper on machinery. Tractol is a very good product, and give excellent results when sprayed or brushed, I have used loads of it. but the finish comes from the preperation and the smoothness of the primer coats, the better they are , the better the finish! There is a knack to using and flatting stopper (cellulose putty), it is like thick primer that you apply with a knife or plastic card. Applied thinly to the bare casting (as they did at the factory) then wet flatted 24 hours later, can bring the areas of bare metal up to absolutely level with the existing flatted paintwork, and then a couple of thin primers are all that is needed. Have a look for some online tutorials on machinery refinishing/painting.

Phil

Edited By Phil Whitley on 20/06/2020 21:17:19

20/06/2020 20:48:54

Once you get back to the original paint, leave it! feather the edges of any bare metal areas with a sander to thin the paint edge and make sure the paint is sound, then etch prime the bare metal. if you can still see the bare metal area, use a very thin layer of cellulose stopper or heavy coats of sprayed primer till there are no visible repairs, then denib it and put on the finish coats. Denibbing means sanding dry with fine abrasive 120 to 200 till the primer feels smooth. When using an oil based paint, you do not need the perfect primer coat that you need with cellulose paints, but you need a spraygun to speed up the whole process. Remember, remove all the overpainting, but leave any good areas of original finish or filler alone. You have seen the finish on my lathe, that is exactly how I did it! Stripping it back to bare metal is a nightmare, the castings are a lot rougher than they look, they used to cover the whole casting in stopper (cellulose putty) and then wet flat them and primer. Even in a heated paint shop, leave the stopper 24 hours for even a thin coat before you try to wet flat it. Fine surface filler to which you add hardener is better, but you have to put it on thicker than stopper, and it is tricky to rub down without breaking through, because it takes a lot more rubbing to get a good finish. several coats of sprayed on high build acrylic primer can save many hours of frustrating fill wait flat repeat cycles!

Phil

20/06/2020 15:02:07

Hi all, Richard, you need to put an etch primer on the aluminium or the paint won't stay on, it is a difficult metal to paint, the yellow dust coat in my pics of my lathe rebuild are the etch primer. Once I had removed all the repainting on my lathe with thinners (acetone) I flatted the original paint finish, and feathered out the edges with a sander where the original paint was missing, I then etch primed all the bare metal, and used high build acrylic primer till the repairs dissapeared, then denibbed it and put the finish coats on. Stripping the lathe back to bare metal will be torture, and if the paint stripper gets to the original filler and starts to soften it, that will all have to come off as well. Much better to remove all the repainting, then rub down and prime the bare metal, and use cellulose stopper or fine surface filler on any noticable defects, then repaint. Nice Bowl!

Phil

Edited By Phil Whitley on 20/06/2020 15:03:42

Thread: 3 Phase in a Model Engineers workshop
20/06/2020 14:37:30

Excellent news! I can understand it sorting the contactor problem, but not the single phasing on the motor, unless the coil pull was too weak to properly close the contactor. I must admit I am not familiar with artificial 3 phase systems. I have only used capacitor phase shifting for testing motors where proper 3 phase was not availble. Glad to hear it is fixed!

Phil

Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
19/06/2020 21:49:21
HI All,
This week Workshop becomes paintshop as I spray the welder and the Jones and Shipman bench centres, and I get them both finished, and check out the RDG lathe test bar Enjoy. like and subscribe! it has been a good week, on Wednesday I thought it was Tuesday, and I spent most of Thursday dozing in the Car park at HRI while Cath had a chest Xray and tests before getting the all clear! Life goes on!
Phil, Mutch Dripping on the Wolds, East Yorkshire

Edited By Phil Whitley on 19/06/2020 21:50:57

Thread: 3 Phase in a Model Engineers workshop
17/06/2020 21:44:13

No need to worry Anthony, the inside of the convertor looks fine!, and that is a much better pic of the main contactor, I am going to have a close look at the wiring on that !

Phil

17/06/2020 21:32:41

You are right again Les, I can also see the fan cowl now you have pointed it out! I am going on the assumption that the maintaining circuit is not workin because the overloads have either already opened due to excess current, or one of the overloads is open circuit, or stuck in the overload position and is causing the motor to try to start on two phases. This would have the effect (depending on how it is connected), of preventing the contactor maintaining circuit working, but would energise the coil when the start button was pressed. The contactor type, with two seperate overloads, which is what appears to be in the hinged lid, is unfamiliar to me. It appers that in order to start the machine, the start button brought in the contactor, and started the main motor, and you could then select coolant with the rotary switch, and either motor overloading or faulting would stop the whole machine. Unusual, but saves using two contactors. The only Cincinnati of this type I have ever encountered was in the seventies in a local workshop owned by a mate of mine, and as I recall now I think the table feed is mechanical and run from the main gearbox, rather than by a seperate motor. Unfortunately it never broke down electrically, so I never got to tear into it!

 

Stuart, the transwave should be able to deal with the starting current without a problem, especially with the belts off, it is after all, rated for starting a 7.5 hp motor. Your point about the single phase supply to the transwave is another possibility to consider though, we always assume MCB's are installed, but this may not be the case. It seems that the tripping is not taking place on the single phase side, so once again, we need someone on site with an AVO and a Megger!

Phil

Edited By Phil Whitley on 17/06/2020 21:35:10

17/06/2020 10:40:03

You are right Les, but it would be a bit of a faff to set it up, I am working on the assumption that if it starts a 3hp motor, it should start a 5hp off load with the belts off, and it isn't. it is rated at 7.5 hp, and should be able to deliver about 15a peak, the 5hp should be demanding about 8-10a, so it shouldnt be a problem, especially so with the belts off. Of course we do need to test that the three phases that are running the lathe are also reaching the mill!

Original poster, can we have a pic of the inside of the rotary convertor pls?

Phil

Thread: Grafton tools (who?) - rotary table
17/06/2020 09:39:03

Well maybe, but it has Grafton cast into the side of the body, and a google on Grafton drill press does come up with my rebuild video, and quite a few for sale ads, so whilst maybe not common, they are about. Judging in the age of the starter, it could be a wartime import.

16/06/2020 21:34:22

Grafton were a US machine tool manufacturer, Drill presses by them are quite common in the UK, rotary tables less so. I have a drill press.

Thread: 3 Phase in a Model Engineers workshop
16/06/2020 21:16:35

Right, I have just "RTFP" again and I see it is a Colchester 1800, do you know why it needs a neutral? I also see you are in the New forest! Bit too far from me in East Yorkshire, any industrial sparkies in that area read this forum?

Phil

Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/06/2020 21:19:32

Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/06/2020 21:20:18

16/06/2020 20:58:34

OK, it sounds like the motor is either off a phase, or maybe has got damp and has leaky insulation, have you tried the coolant pump/table feed to see if they run correctly? What are the earthing arrangments for the installation? If you have a multi meter you need to turn off the power, isolate the machine and start testing through each phase from the isolator on the machine, through the contactor with the contactor held in manually, through the overload, and to the motor. You could also do with a megger to do an insulation test on the motor. I think Emgee is right, we are coming to the point where you need someone on site with basic test gear to sort this out. If it was running at your previous premises, it can't be much wrong with it. there is a possibility that there is a phase off at the motor caused by a bad contact either in the contactor, , or in the overload. If the coolant/table feed works, and the main motor doesnt we have confirmed three good phases at the machine, if they don't work correctly we can suspect the supply to the machine. Incidentally, what type of lathe is it, and why does it need a neutral? Where are you in the country?

Phil

Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/06/2020 21:03:15

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