Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
I see the problem now, it is pressed metal, not cast, and looks, with the round clamps at either end, like it comes from a very similar sawbench to mine, which is a startright? The fence on mine is missing.
there are no changes to the SC box, but things were individually fitted to machines as they were built up. All the parts would "fit" but some had to be eased to make them fit properly, bit of filing and smoothing here and there.
I am not THAT bored, and probably couldn't do it anyway, maths was not my strength at school and at tech college we were still in the days of slide rules, I was earning about £14 a week and an electronic calculator was about £60!
Do you have a sheet of glass? plate glass is best, or a large polished granite tile. put a flat wad of cloth like a once folded blanket or an old towel on the bench and put the glass on it. mix some fine valve grinding paste with white spirit or wd40 and spread it on the surface, place the fence on it face down and rub to and fro and rotate and repeat, this will soon reveal where the highs and lows are, and you can scrape the highs down and repeat the process till you get good overall contact. Used to use this method for carb flanges and any joints that were not mating up or leaking, most recently used it on the SC box front on the lathe! it was a long way out, hence my suspicion that it was a foreigner!
Richard, did you notice(can you remember) that when starting my lathe it would sometimes get a couple of clatters from the contactor before it started proper? Jist been thinking about that, dirty contacts on the intermediate position of the Craig and Derricot limit switch! Can you tell I am bored!!
Soft clean brush with long bristles, and a warm room! Put the paint on fairly thick, brush it out briskly, and when it is smooth, leave it alone! check for runs every few minutes, and if they happen, brush them out, usually primer and 2 to 3 topcoats does the job. Tractol is bloody good paint for the price, and oil resistant when fully cured, which takes about a week, longer in the cold! There is a knack to it which comes with practice. I have had great success using 2" and 4" gloss rollers for machine painting, almost as good as spray finish, and wastes much less paint! Very important to keep the painting area warm so flows smooth, tacks off quickly and doesnt run! you can either put your roller in water, or in a tightly wrapped poly bag and reuse it the next day, or even a few days later. Give it a good shake if you use the water method.
Edited By Phil Whitley on 02/04/2020 19:34:06
Hi Richard, no panic for the gasket, and the oiler would be spiffing if you can get one! we are all in limbo at the moment. That flexible coolant pipe is very similar on the Covmac, I noticed that the carriage was very difficult to move, then there was a POP and it freed off, the coolant pipe had aged and gone rock hard, and then snapped!
Flexible metal conduit, the guy I served most of my apprenticeship with called it "oss cock"! If it is the metal spiral type same as mine, you might struggle to get one, luckily, magpie that I am, I have some in a tin in the "stores" let me know if you can't get one.
you would be connecting the new transformer across the two fuses that originally supplied the lighting transformer, so it would be a protected circuit, so if the transformer did fail, it would just blow a fuse! no loud bangs, very undramatic!!
Hi Richard, the star point is the metal link across the three terminals in the connector box, so you could take a wire from there and it would be a neutral as far as its relationship to any of the other phases is concerned, but after another "DOH" moment, I realised that this is only when the motor is running, and to have the light go out when you stop the lathe is unacceptable, to say the least! Get the transformer, and link it to your existing LEd power supply.
You need to get some flexible conduit and end bushes to go between the contactor and the motor terminal box, those wires are only single insulated, and would chafe through in no time, plastic flex conduit and end bushes are VERY cheap, local electrical wholesaler, or screwfix. Always be doubly safe with three phase! short circuits between phases are LOUD and quite spectacular!
The RS transformer appears correct, as long as it is continously rated for use, I would prefer it if you got RS to confirm it as suitable, explain the use you want to put it to in an email to their tech dept, and they should be able to confirm it is correct for purpose. I have a natural aversion to loud noises, even at this range!
Thanks for the gasket material, really appreciate it!, I noticed yesterday when I took the pic that my sc box is leaking from the drain plug too! new copper washer methinks.
Edited By Phil Whitley on 31/03/2020 13:06:43
Note that the shaft on mine has a shoulder that yours doesn't have!
Here you go Richard, the dutch key!
"If the motor can be connected in star or delta, it will be" (should have continued) in the terminal box!.
Duncan, I always preffered BSA to Triumph, as a teenager I had a rash of Bantams as pit bukes, and a very George Todd tuned one as a road bike, which was good, but unreliable, suffering from constant low crankcase pressure, many years later I realised that I had been putting the seals in the wrong way round, ignoring the rule of "always put the spring to what you are sealing in! In my twenties I had an A10, which was very reliable, but left a torrey canyon size slick wherever it went!. Also prefered the Rocket 3 to the trident, but there you go!
Richard, problem solved using sound engineering principle of pulling it down and having a good look! never fails! Yes, I would love some neoprene, but don't leave yerself short! Thanks for the extra pics, I am getting more confident about tackling my spindle, and obvs will note the key position!!
On the tumbler shaft, i will post up a pic of mine, but it is essental to lock the shaft to the handle once the gears have been set up to mesh correctly in all positions, and if yours hasn't been dutch keyed (VERY odd, but it is an early one) then they must have used some other method, which is the reason it won't come off. It seems to be there in the handle, but not the shaft. Has someone fitted, or even made, a replacement shaft? Take the clamping bolt right out of the handle, and have a good look around it for hidden roll pins or screw holes.
As to the motor thing, it will be running in star, but whether you could do as I suggest will depend on whether the star connection point is in the terminal box, or buried in the windings. If the motor can be connected in star or delta, it will be. It is an option for future consideration, and would provide an "onboard" neutral without extra wiring and five pin plugs and sockets.
Hi Richard, I am going to the workshop tomorrow, so I will take a pic of the dutch key in my machine, unless I have one on file, I will look today
Re the gearbox problem, have you got the mesh on the sliding shifter one tooth out? that is certainly not meshing sufficiently with the driving gear! I gather that the gear is not coming in to contact with the boss on the spindle visible in your picture. If there is a stop on the sliding shifter handle, the handle nay be hotting ther stop before the gear is fully meshed. No doubt this problem is in my future too, when I replace my spindle bearings.
"So I need a transformer to take the 415v to 250v then use my current transformer to get it right?"
Yes, but I have had one of those "DOH" moments that us oldies have when we have skated over the obvious solution! If your new motor is running in star, and the star connection is accesible, you can derive a neutral from the star connection in the motor. I have a 3 phase steam cleaner on which the pressure jet oil burner and ignition is all single phase, and it gets its "neutral" from the star point of the motor, so it may be that you already have 240v L/N available in the machine!.
I will be online most of today, so get back to me if you need any more misleading information!!
|Thread: Brook Compton 1 phase motor KP6345|
Can you post up pics of the inside of the bearing housings in the end bells, should be able to sort it for you.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
You need one of them nice halogen radiant heaters from B&Q!
|Thread: Brook motor off Myford Lathe problem|
remove the two screws either side of the shaft, this will release the bearing plate and allow the rotor to be withdrawn from the other end. then tap the bell housing/ stator joint with a blunt screwdriver or chisel, and remove the bell housing and capacitor as one unit, sliding the capacitor out of its housing, beware, that packing looks a lot like the contents of the capacitor that have oozed out due to internal short in the capacitor!, may not be, but it pays to be cautious! wear gloves!
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
That pic is upside down innit?
Hi Richard, If you put your multimeter across L1 and L3, and push the start handle down partway, you should see the coil resistance if all is well. if you then push the contactor in, and move the handle into the run position, you should continue to see the coil resistance.
Fekk! I can't see a dutch key either, Your pic is of the right place, but it is small, and it should be there somewhere, clean it all back to bright metal before you say it is definitely not there! I can see what looks like about a 1/3 of a hole with a thread in it at about 4.30. Allen bolt in the centre of the shaft is for holding the shaft still whilst adjusting the gears. Never had that one off mine, I assume it is loctited in.
Hi Richard, We have one two many A2 connections! If the A2 terminal on the overload end of the contactor is common with the one on the other end (multimeter check, look for the same resistance between A1, and either of the A2 connections. and check with the contactor pushed down to make sure that it is not switched by the contactor) then it is a common and we can use that one. Remove the link between the other A2 connection and the 13NO(the one with the red wire in it) There is confusion here, because the two wiring diagrams refer to NC-09-95 and NC-09-95N and your contactor is an NC-09-10, an example of Chinese inscrutability if ever I saw one!
Alternatively, you can use the A1 and A2 connections on the same end of the contactor, and wire from that A2 to the NC on the overloads, then from the other NC overload contact to the 13NO. there should be only two wires at this connection, and it should not be linked to A2.
This sounds a lot more complex than it is!, referring to the diagram will make it easier. You only need use one of the A2 connections, as the coil only has two ends, one end goes to a supply line (A1 to L1) and the other end goes into the switching and safety circuits and uses them to get back to L3 via the yellow wire, and when L1 and L3 are across the coil the contactor pulls in, and the motor starts. rewire it like this and post more pics! Tedious, but then, what else can we do in the present "interesting" times?
Edited By Phil Whitley on 28/03/2020 15:12:47
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