Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Bloodhounds wheels go on the lathe|
Pendine sandsm, J G Parry -Thomas? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/J._G._Parry-Thomas
|Thread: Did you choose a career or did it choose you?|
Left school at 15 (1967) and started an apprenticeship as an Electrical Engineer, In the meantime my father started his own electrical engineering business, so after three fairly miserable years, and after supposedly joining the REME as an army apprentice, but never actually getting the "call" I went to work for my father (mistake) Passed three years at Tech college and came out with a C&G National Diploma in Electrical Engineering. Built a workshop in the meantime and started my own car repair business, started out doing everything but ended up seven years later building competition mini and Jaguar engines, racing rallycross and grass track, and maintaining and servicing a lot of "classics" for various customers. Fancied a complete change and with my cousin, started various businesses, including private investigation, debt collecting, buying and selling, all based around our selling service business (high street shop), which was one of the most exciting things I have ever done. No two days ever the same, and I managed to stay clean and in one piece! Moved on into a video production company, made several pop videos for breaking bands (who never actually broke, another story) Got into classic cars again, with an E type (always my absolute favourite) XK 150, rebuilt a Rover 14, rebuilt an Aston Martin DBS V8 twin cam engine (top end SCARY SCARY no timing marks!) Built and ran a village shop (in Wetwang!) bought and sold property and ended up becoming an assistant professional foster carer at the same time. Built a house as part of a consortium which went belly up! Got cataracts in both eyes, off work for three years and went on a computer engineering course as a way back to work. Was handed a file on Rural broadband by my brother, and started an ISP business in my home village which grew quickly due to the now defunct Yorkshire Forward, and today specialises in providing wireless broadband in remote rural areas like national parks (they do North york moors NP, Yorkshire Dales NP, Harewood house still going strong, though I am no longer involved) In order to get my brother out of MY workshop (he runs an aircraft cover/leather goods business) I spent three years working for him to convert our local disused chapel into a new workshop, and now at last I am working on the refurb of my own workshop. I got my first lathe (a DS&G 13Z) in the seventies for the garage business, but sold it on, and now have a Colchester Student Mk1, the now famous (infamous?) Covmac, a Harrison H mill which I have just got a V head for, a Raglan V mill, An Alba no1 shaper, and various drills, grinders, pol;ishers etc, a manchester rapidor saw, an Alfred Herbert precision drill, a forge, and a brazing hearth (thats all I can remember at the moment) I now feel like an absolute fraud, because I am not a model engineer! I like building, and rebuilding machines, inventing, modding, and anything to to with electro mechanical engineering of any type.Married at fifty and now have two wonderful girls 10 and 13. My eyes are still the windows of my soul, it's just that I now have them double glazed!
|Thread: Woodwork Router Advice|
Hi Frank, Your victorian doors probably have victorian cast hinges on them, which are a typically victorian piece of engineering, modern hinges are sh*te.
I watched the TREND video, I wonder how much the purpose made jig costs!, even though the video was heavily time edited, it didn't look any faster, although it probably does wonders for TRENDS profit margin. I mean, Why use a few simple hand tools when you can do the same job with hundreds of pounds worth of equipment.
Hi Brian, I am sure there is a rule of thumb for hinge position, but if there is, I don't know it! If you consider the stresses on the door when it is open, the weight of the door pulls the top hinge and pushes the bottom one. I generally put them between 12" and 18" from the top, and about 12" from the bottom. Heavier doors should use three hinges, firedoors have their own regulations!!
I really cannot believe anyone would imagine it was faster to use a router, especially on a new build site situation where the tools and the power supply and the jig have to be moved from door to door, and given that a large number (in my experience) of building site foremen are also joiners I can imagine what would be said if some one tried it on site!
Hi All, Excuse me, but that seems like a ridiculously complex way to cut the hinges into a door frame. this is the method I use, and which is always used by all the pro joiners I have ever seen fit a door,
Fold hinge to 90 deg and place on edge of door, pencil round and mark thickness of hinge on face of door, Chisel out and fit hinge to door, repeat for number of hinges till all are cut. Offer door up to frame, pack up with hardboard/cardboard to obtain correct clearance at top of door, mark hinges on to door frame, mark thickness of hinge on frame and chisel out.
Twenty minutes tops and I am an Electrical engineer, A real joiner does it in less than half that time
|Thread: Eliminating backlash|
First, check the fixing screws for the cross slide nut are tight, then turn the handle back, to the point where the slide starts to move, then forward to the point where it starts to move again and note the readings on the dials, to see how much backlash you have. All lathe feed screws have some backlash, if there was none they would not work! You operate the lathe by moving the tool up to the work, just touching it onto the work, then zeroing the dial on the handwheel and working forward only from that point, thus eliminating the backlash. Backlash is not neccasarily wear, it is common to all threads, if you have too much of it, you can replace the thread and the nut. How much is there?
|Thread: Woodwork Router Advice|
Hi Wallace, for mortice and tenon joints get yourself a japanese pull saw. one that cuts on the pull stroke! much easier and more accurate. for the rebates in the frame where the door fits I would use a table saw to rabbet them rather than a router, then finish with hand plane and sander. Routers have a way of always roaming into the wood you want, so you need to "fence" so that the router cannot stray into the job. Untill you get the hang of them they are hard to use, possibly the hardest hand tool I have ever used. A few years ago I took on a project to rebuild an old Chapel for my brother, this involved removing, rebuilding and replacing 11 window frames, including the large gable window frame which was about 10 Ft tall. At this time my woodwork skills were of the order of, "I look at the wood, and it splits". The windows had curved triangular tops, which had to be repaired and reused, and there was a conplex cut joint between this and the vertical sides. The first window took nearly two weeks to do, when I did the last it was 1-1/2 days. Don't wonder how to do it, get started and wonder how you did it. You will get better!
|Thread: Fobco Star drilling machine|
Hi John, Well it is a bit of a dilemma, but if anyone should know it is Tony@lathes, and an angular type bearing is designed to take thrust in one direction, so not only must it be fitted at the bottom (where the thrust is) it must also be fitted the right way round!
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Hang in there Brian, We went to the National neurological Hospital in London in January to try and get to the bottom of my wifes paralysis problem, so I know what it's like, but only from the outside as it were. Mind you, if it wasn't for the NHS I would have checked out long ago, what with a car accident when I was 6 then tonsils and addenoids (very fashionable in the fifties) a failed kidney, then cataracts, and a detached retina, and I very carelessly lost my appendix as well! Thinking off you mate!
|Thread: Screwcutting Clutch for Myford Lathes|
My thoughts exactly when I was reading the book. Neil, in that Martin modified his lathe to produce batches of threads commercially amd could knock them out at a fair rate. Electronic leadscrews, stepper motors and the like are ok.......till they go wrong! You know where you are with gears and clutches.
|Thread: Induction motor problem|
I was Gifted (?) a small chinese bench pillar drill, on which the motor was awesomly noisy, especially for it's tiny size, they are in fact very poorly made, usually out of balance to some extent, and also poorly wound, which is where a lot of the noise actually comes from, and there is a good chance that the replacement will be just as bad. If it is a single phase AC induction motor, see if you can source one locally that is British made and will fit the available space.
|Thread: What did you do today (2015)|
Funny you should say that Muzzer. I had a look and came to the exact same conclusion!
|Thread: Moving a heavy lathe|
As has been said above, lathes are generally very top heavy! what I have done in the past is to remove the chuck, compund slide and tool post, and the tailstock, which reduces the top heaviness as much as is easily possible. I also remove any sticky out bits like handwhell handles or gearbox levers. I did not have the opportunity to unbolt either of my lathes from a stand, and if I had, I certainly would have done. I have used an engine crane in the past to both lift and move machinery, but I lift and then lower the machine onto two or three timber baulks placed across the legs of the crane, leaving some tension on the slings, then pull it rather than push it! If you are going over concrete, sweep it well first with a good stiff brush, and make sure the crane wheels are perfectly free and well oiled. if the concrete is rough, use a couple of sheets of shuttering plywood and rollers. If you have to traverse grass, or paths too narrow for the crane, use two scaffold boards slightly wider apart than the width of the machine, and use rollers. Always wear gloves and take your time!
|Thread: Cromwell lathe|
Oh yes that does look nice, you lucky man! We would all love to see some photos of your lathe and the rebuild, and it is easier to answer questions when we have "summat to look at"
Good luck with it!
|Thread: Rust Treatment|
Hi Chris, Beware!! can you tell me what car it is, and where the rust is, or even post up a picture? If this is ONLY stone chip damage, and you know the metal underneath is sound, as the others have said, anything with phosphoric acid in it will remove it, then use a product like "Davids" zinc rich primer or similar.
If however the rust first appeared as bubbling in the paint it is almost certainly rust which has come right through the metal of the panel, or an earlier repair which has not been done properly, and will require either a welded in repair, or filling with a reinforced matt and resin type filler after all the rust has been neutralised and treated or removed. Don't wish to be negative about this, but going out to spend a few minutes fixing some rust then coming back with a long face and a hole in your pride and joy is not a good way to spend your Sunday! I spent a large(too large!) part of my life rebuilding rusty motor cars and have welded everything from an Aston Martin DBS V8 to a Citroen 2CV.
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
What you have to do Ian, is break the bottle in half so it has a nice jagged edge, then jam the halves into the hole with the sharps facing out and fill with mortar, then put a steel sheet at either side till the mortat is completely hard. If the mortat is at all soft they will have it, and the glass out again. Doesn't always work, and they will try to make holes alongside it if it is on a route to food, but you have to make everything as hard as you can for them. Remove all the cover, and all the available food and they will stop breeding so fast, then poison em! I know they are animals and all, and have a right to live, but they can wreck buildings in a short time, and they are dangerous!
|Thread: Short arms long pockets|
And now you will have to tell us why you have a wooden tailstock, you're not being tempted to the ...........dark side .......are you? Please say it isn't so!
From Pudsey, but now happily dwelling in East Yorkshire, though I have to admit, East is least, but West is best!
|Thread: Lucky to Have a Face|
Les Jones description is spot on, the fan and the back pressure in the bag provides sufficient resistance to keep the rpm down, take it off, and they will run to destruction! another fun thing we used to do at tech college was to rig a flourescent tube with a switch that removed the choke from the circuit by shorting it out, the tube gets brighter and brighter until..............................................Dont try this at home!!!
|Thread: Workshop visitors|
I should think they did Bl**dy well put it down for free, not the first timeI have heard that one either! Must admit a couple of cats or a loose terrier round the place tends to keep them away, but my cousin has a kennels full of rough collies, and they have to be constantly vigilant towards the end of winter when the rats are desperate. I used to go "ratting" on a local farm with a .22 rifle ( not an air rifle!!) We used to get the ancient Yale loading shovel, put the bucket up in the air, put a pile of grain in the middle of the shed floor, climb into the bucket, and wait. after about 5 minutes we could shoot rats one after the otner as long as we had enough shells! the would walk out of cover, calmly climb over the bodies of their"comrades" who they had just seen shot and start to feed, they aint clever, they're just feeding breeding machines! They like bird food and they will chew through almost anything to get to dog biscuits! the farmers round me used to block up the holes in brickwork with broken bottles in the mortar so they couldnt get it out again!
|Thread: Riston Milling Machien|
There is some info here!
If the size is good for you, and the price, and of course the machine is not worn, go for it, The Tom senior E will be much more expensive, I would think.
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