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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: What did you do today (2015)
22/07/2015 21:36:53

You might be able to sandblast it then metalspray it, is is fairly badly pitted, no wonder it didn't seal! If it is turnable you could clean it up and shrink a sleeve onto it. There is always a way, the question is are you putting more time and materials in than it would take to make a new part?

Phil

Thread: Stress Fracture
15/07/2015 21:03:07

I was going to say "make a steel one" but Woody beat me to it. That casting is very thin, and seriously weakened by the holes for the clamps. You can't easily thicken it up without raising the centre height of the toolholder, so the thing to do is to use a stronger material.Given that lots of Boxfords went to schools, I feel they may have sold more of these parts than they are telling . Any slackness in the holding down bolts would also put it under extreme strain, especially in a dig in situation. Parting off on a lathe is the purest test of how rigid the machine is (I HATE it)

Phil

Thread: Brass plug
07/07/2015 19:21:25

I know the feeling John, when I was an apprentice, I worked Saturday mornings, and the bus fare was more than I got paid for the mornings work!

Phil

Thread: "Vintage" Dial Gauge
07/07/2015 19:14:40

Provided it isn't damaged, and it looks unused, or well looked after, use it, and be amazed at how much better it is than the modern ones!

Phil

Thread: Brass plug
06/07/2015 20:46:59

You are right John, die heads do produce accurate flanks, but rarely cut peaks and troughs to 100% depth, If you consider a thread cut to 100% of its depth and with correct peak and trough profiles, it would be almost impossible to fit a nut to it without having clearance "top and bottom" It is the flanks that do all the work, so you can afford to leave clearance on the peaks. I have used the two blades in the hacksaw trick, and this helps to produe a decent square sided slot, of a decent width. One of the constant frustrations in engineering repair is the removal of slotted screws, there doesnt ever seem to have been a standard for the thickness of the screw slot/driver blade, and things like these plugs, you have to search for (or make) a screwdriver with the full width and the perfect thickness to fit tight in the slot, then push HARD and turn gently, because it is a one chance job! If you worked for Lucas, you will know a lot more tricks than me John.

Phil

05/07/2015 20:52:43

Hi Martyn, just to clarify the above point from John, is the thread male or female? Johns post above is absolutely correct, but, without igniting a flamewar, I would suggest that as Austin sevens were built to a price, the original component would be made on a capstan lathe, possibly using an auto die head, or just a tap for internal, neither of which methods produce a perfect thread form, . A thread in use mates on the flanks, it is virtually impossible, and also unneccasary to machine perfect crests and troughs. Can you post up a pic of the plug?

Phil

Thread: Changing apron oil - ? Flush out
04/07/2015 19:42:56

If you can get a bent bit of wire in and scrape the gloop to loosen it from the bottom, then flush with diesel fuel, parrafin or white spirit, in that order of preferance, allow it to drain well, and refill, you shoiuld be good to go. My first lathe was a DS&G 13Z.

Phil

Thread: Harrison Mill question
04/07/2015 17:44:02

blush

Edited By Phil Whitley on 04/07/2015 17:44:47

04/07/2015 17:39:13

Hi Mark, I was lucky, my machine came with the original boxed set of accesories it was supplied new with, and I have picked up quite a few at auctions and machinery sales, usually at scrap prices. Always be on the lookout for int 30 tooling and arbors, the more different sized arbors you have, the more different bore scrap cutters you can accomodate. Also think of using a piece of keyed bar stock in a collet chuck as an arbour, with a bush into the support bracket, but Don't go overboard with the feeds and cutting depth. I will take some better pics when I am back at the shop on Monday, been today but forgot the camera. If you are considering buying new cutters, I would only buy what you need for a job as the retail ones aren't a patch on the quality of the ones the factories and machine shops chuck out by the pallet load!

Phil

Thread: very old French Chandelier
04/07/2015 17:12:46

Hi Ian, The thread being rolled means it is formed by forcing a revolving die onto the material, instead of cutting with a die or on a lathe.This produces a more round top to the thread and they are generally very even to, bit sometimes a cut thread nut does not easily fit a rolled thread bolt. The thread will be either a small version of BSC (british standard conduit) or possibly brass thread, you will have to see what thread is in the lampholders before you commit, they could all now be metric! Is it something like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Elektek-Nipple-Fitting-Threaded-Holders/dp/B007MPBSEI/ref=pd_bxgy_60_img_y

or is there a thread in the chandelier, in which case you need a 3/8" or 1/2" brass nipple. All metal light fitting, don't forget to earth it!

Phil

Thread: Brass plug
04/07/2015 16:54:49

I would make it on the lathe, and single point thread it . Contrary to what ppl believe, threading on a lathe isnt hard at all, its just that we all believe its hard till we do out first. Once you have done one, and this could be the one, its easy.! It was reading explanations and watching videos on this and other sites that got me up enough bottle to make a part I could not buy anywhere, Remember you can practice on bits of scrap aluminium till you get it right. First job is to get some thread guages, find out what thread it is, then see if you have the gears to cut it with.

Phil

Thread: Harrison Mill question
04/07/2015 11:34:21

04/07/2015 11:25:30

Yes Mark, that is the universal model, if you loosen the two bolts above the feed wheel in the bed of the table, the table swivels , which on mine it doesn't. You got a REAL bargain there, I bought mine from the school where my wife worked, and TBH I think it has hardly been used, I will post a pic up.

Phil

03/07/2015 20:23:06

Go to the top of the page and click on albums (on the green strip) and create an album. Then upload your pics to the album. when you answer a post click on the black camera icon above the text box, select the pic you want, and it appears in the text box. Simples(not!) It is the way this forum software works, others are easier, but once you get it, they are ok!

Phil

03/07/2015 20:12:55

Hi Mark, Are you trying to post a pic? You have to create an album, (see link at top of page), then upload pics to your album, then post a reply and add your pics to the reply. Here is the pic of my feed box with the Allen key in the filler plug.

Thread: New Lathe, well maybe not "new"
02/07/2015 20:37:53

TAPER!! turning that is!

02/07/2015 20:37:11

Looking at the unusually long travel on the compound and the long and elaborate angle indicator which would increase the accuracy for angle setting, I would hazard a guess that this machine is designed for taoer turning.

Phil

Thread: Harrison Mill question
02/07/2015 18:38:31

Hi Mark, It sounds like you have the Universal model, mine is the standard one. On mine the feed gearbox is on the right under the table, and the oil filler is behind an aluminium cover, which when removed exposes two gears, the gearbox filler is an allen grub screw plug to the right of the lower gear, (mine is empty%-() from your description, yours is totally different, can you post up a picture? I will share what little experience I have with pleasure. Do you have the vertical head for yours, or is it just horizontal. I had given up hope of getting one, and then one appeared on ebay and I won it.My workshop is in the midst of a massive refurb (it was built in the 70,s) but I can use 1 lathe, and the mill if I need to, so any problems, let me know, there are quite a few metalwork sites, and between them you will find many Harrison mill users, almost all of them more experienced than I am! Although there is a milling machine group on yahoo groups, there isn't much Harrison info on it. You can get the Harrison manual from tony@lathes.co.uk, and he also has the worlds largest online reference of machine tools, with lots of Harrison info. http://www.lathes.co.uk/harrisonmiller/index.html

Hope this helps, any specific questions, just post up here

Phil

01/07/2015 23:37:25

I will be at my workshop tomorrow,
I will have .a look and get back to you tomorrow night

phil

Thread: Lathe design not keeping up
24/06/2015 18:48:45

I love the spline broaching bush! Like all brilliant ideas, simple, yet elegant, the mark of true genius. (now youre going to tell me it wasnt your idea)

Phil

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