Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: ANZACS - We will remember them!!|
|Thread: Blot On The Landscape|
HS2 is uneccasary, and grossly overpriced. No doubt it was lobbied for by representatives of the firms who will build it, and they were able to convince the government tnat the country desperately needed this project, whereas in reality, the only people who desperately need it are the contractors, who rely on endless govenment contracts and bottomless pits of taxpayers money. We have one of these megacontractor vanity projects in our neck of the woods., it is known as "The Humber bridge", or by the locals as "the bridge to nowhere". It was supposed to cost 80 to 100 million, ended up costing 800 million, carries nothing like the amount of traffic it was supposed to, did nothing to halt the decline of East Yorkshire and noth Lincolnshire, spawned no new business, and now they talk about scrapping the tolls, as they are not worth collecting! HS2 should be scrapped, as should the other vanity project at Hinckley, especially in the present economic downward plunge caused by Covid 19.
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
WOW, that is the original Colchester angle poise lamp, now selling for a small fortune as a covetted item of "Industrial art" so named by a bunch of yuppies who call themselves antique dealers and specialise is industrial heritage items! Mine has a "common" MEM Memlite, which they only sell for £75.00! I am well green!
"Well if I've almost done two years of a mechanical engineering degree then I probably should be able to take something to pieces, clean it, and put it back together again! "
Well, yes, but I have known a lot of ppl with technical degrees who were practically useless! good to see that you are definitely not one of them! Does your degree involve any practical "workshop" time? Do you do a "year in industry" I am out of the loop now, so have no contact with the industry any more! Be carefull with that wood, dangerous stuff! Phil.
That sounds better, you've advanced a tech level!
|Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos|
End of week 4 of lockdown, I havent been to the workshop, but needed to go today, so I did some little jobs and shot this while I was there Hope you enjoy it! Like, comment, subscribe, but above all stay well, stay indoors, because the more we do it, the sooner it will be over!
Warm and sunny East Yorkshire
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
Fuses blown? I think they are rewirable types, 5 a fusewire. If it never had the transformer fitted there is a possibility that there is no wire ever been fitted in the fuses.. Testing the transformer, you will get continuity between 0v and the tappings on the input side, and ov and 240 on the output side, there is no connection across the transformer, the magneticc field created by the primary induces the output voltage in the secondary.
Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/04/2020 20:15:28
Actually I would use the 420v hole to be on the safe side, phases from the phase convertor may not be perfectly balanced voltages!
looks good to me, can you check for voltage at the back of the lampholder, otherwise, you will have to be patient and wait for the bulb.
I am typing with an allo allo fronch accint!
2 wires from the slydloc fuses, one into 420 and one into 0V , watch out for cooling, both tramsformers tend to rum fairly warm, and the led units run qiote hot as they are somtomes capacitance mains droppers.
You are probably right about the led bulb, it should last virtually forever, and if it doesnt, bounce it back at that price! The link isn't working, but basically you connect the input 415v side to the slidelock fuses (fuse at 5 amp), and connect the 240v out to your led transformer and the output of the led transformer straight to the light. Check the wiring to the light is ok as they sometimes have old TRS rubber cable to the lampholder, which perishes and shorts out in an oily atmosphere, particularly at the back of the lampholder where it gets warm.
or one of these, https://www.ledkia.com/uk/buy-conventional-e27-led-bulbs/6421-a60-e27-6w-led-bulb-1224v.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuY2fjbvq6AIVmpntCh3WVQa_EAQYAyABEgJ1tvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
and one of these,
MUCH CHEAPER! just like me!!
Edited By Phil Whitley on 15/04/2020 13:51:54
Yes, thats the one I thought was best, get it in cool white. they are expensive for what they are, and I get the impressiom that you are paying a premium price because they are for boats etc! The only alternative would be to buy one of these https://www.plugsocketmuseum.nl/OldBritish4.html (pic No3) you may even have one, I think I have a few kicking about, or junk shop etc, when normality returns. and then attach a lampholder or direct wire an led of your choice, that is cheaper that the BC one, nearly £8 for that is a bit toppy, but then I am extremely tight witth money!!
Get the cool white one!
yes, you are right, it would not be a good place for a foot, but it does look like a fixing position. Is that pic of the screw foot on your lathe? I have nothing like that on mine!
It is possible that you may have to change the lampholder from BC to sonething else, or get a BC adapter, and fit another lampholder to it. You can buy these https://bedazzledledlighting.co.uk/product-category/led-bulbs/bc-b22/ which will fit into the BC direct, and are available in 12v and 24v, or you could source a cheaper LED 12v bulb, and adapt a BC adapter to make it fit. There are ready made adapters on the market, but they are mainly for 240v bulb types, like the GU10. I dont think you will be able to but a direct adapter from BC to something that will take a 12v led because of the obvious safety risks.
Hi Richard, looking at your last picture, is that a fixing hole in the base of the cupboard, or is it a threaded jacking point? According to your manual, which is correct for both our machines, because we both have the earlier 2 slot apron "levelling screws were not fitted to cabinet models, only to leg models" but according to my slightly later "1.5" model manual with the safety apron, there are leveling screws. I suppose tt all depends on whether they changed to the later cabinets at the same time as the later apron came in! Aslo in your manual there IS details of testing for twist in the bed and levelling, but not in mine.
Also. if you read the blurb on www.lathes.co.uk/colchester he says that the very early students had a 6" centre height, but they changed to 6.5" centre height early in production to make the centre height the same across all the different bed lengths and models of this size.
The names "Student" and "Master" (of both the Mk. 1 and Mk. 2 designations) refer, in effect, to the centre height and bed length - the Student being 6" x 24" and the Master 6.5" x 36" - for, in all other respects, the lathes were identical (in reality, most Student lathes appear to have been built with a 6.5-inch centre height - so beware if buying a replacement tailstock). Although the specification laid down in the sales literature was quite unambiguous, the factory would build a batch of machines with any modifications (or mixture of features) that the customer desired and the author has seen, over the years, examples that combine almost as many changes and adaptations to the previous differences as could be imagined. The factory even offered "special single or two-tone colour finishes" and the option of chromium-plated control levers and handwheels. However, one unvarying feature was that, on gap-bed lathes, the carriage-traverse handwheel was positioned on the right-hand side of the apron and on straight-bed machines it was always to the left.
Just goes to show that machines may "look" the same, but have widely differing details! Good work on the pulleys!
|Thread: It would happen now!|
I can thoroughly recomend Intergas boilers too, The Grinstone Cowboys solution seems to be the best to me! Hope you get it sorted Clive, good luck with it all!
|Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start|
Hi Richard, this vice is fabricated steel rather than cast iron, and not expensive!
I bought one of these
from my paint and tool van when they first came out in the seventies, it was £24.00! Exactly the same design today, but a bit more expensive. It has resisted all my attempts to break it in any way. I think I have broken two or three cast ones in that time!
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