Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: My forge rebuild|
Slideshow of my forge rebuild, enjoy!
|Thread: CovMac Lathes|
yes Brian, very keenly observed! it was a bit variable in the higher (lol) speeds, and I had noticed that the lathe was harder to turn manually than I would have expected, when turning the input pulley, so I need to check the clutch, and check the freeness of the headstock. I took the cap off the headstock to observe the oil splash, and got a rather closer view of the oil splashing than I would have prefered! After I had cleaned it off the wall and me, I drew the conclusion that the oil was somewhat sticky, and may be part polymerised, so a good warm up and oil change is on the cards. I think from checking lathes site that the headstock is all bushes apart from a ball thrust bearing, and it gives me an excuse (as if I really needed one) to take the top off the headstock and have a look. I found all manner of spare parts in the bottom of the Colchester headstock and once I am happy with the Covmac, I will be stripping the colchester headstock (which I think is noisier than even a Colchester headstock should be, and has had the bearing adjustment nuts "messed with") with a view to changing some bearings, including the main spindle bearings, which I was lucky enough to get an immaculate set of for reasonable money, and if I need any bushes or spacers making for extracting the bearings, I can make them on the Covmac. Onward and upward!
Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/09/2019 10:25:59
Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/09/2019 10:26:42
Edited By Phil Whitley on 16/09/2019 10:27:34
The covmac LIVES! Got it finished Friday afternoon. As an added bonus, everything works, ran through all the feeds and speeds, and it's all good. Did a meticulous clean of the three jaw backplate thread, oiled up the nose thread, and fitted it. Interuptions notwithstanding, on Monday I will be finding a suitable pump from my collection, for the coolant system, and looking at making the missing hinge block for the plinth door, and then it will be truly finished, and fully usable. I will combine the pump search with a tidy up and general sort out of my "stores" which contains quite a large quantity of stuff which will be bound for the scrapyard, which gives me a chance to go poaching for materials! Hope this link works! https://youtu.be/bYIWqdY8FmQ
Edited By Phil Whitley on 15/09/2019 12:28:06
Edited By Phil Whitley on 15/09/2019 12:39:16
Yes Chris, I have the plinth door, need to make a replacement hinge block, but have all the bits!
There is many a slip betwixt cup and lip!! What was I saying about interuptions? I am now back in Driffield, having been to the workshop, and come back after a call announcing a delivery at 10-30, and another between 11-30 and 1!! Damn, but I will get back today, Determined!
Edited By Phil Whitley on 13/09/2019 10:34:22
Well, we are a step nearer , I am planning switch on for tomorrow. Needless to say, as usual, there have been interuptions! I struggled looking for somwhere on the machine to mount the starter, and in the end, gave up, the starter is going on the wall, which is good as they generally dont last too well when mounted on machines, due to vibration. I found an antique Estop in my collection, and have fitted that to the machine just below the clutch bar on the headstock. Yesterday I moved the machine back to the wall, and I will finish the wiring tomorrow. Finally got the belt guard fitted in a position where there is clearance for the belts, and still room to fit the transfer gear cover. Also made a splashback which will help to keep the walls clean! More pics tomorrow, and maybe even some video of it running, if I can get my head around the technology.....................
|Thread: C.A.V Dynamo Question?|
Hi Rik and welcome,There are collectors of cutaway engineering items out there, could be a good ebay item.
Hi Barry, welcome to the forum! I use a Lidl product which is simply called "degreaser", and it works very well, and at 89p for a 500ml grip spray, also very economical. Also, it doesn't harm the paint, and can be used with wire wool or scotchbrite to flat old paint before repainting.
|Thread: be careful out there people!|
Sometimes, when you realise you have opened a can of worms, you are too far in to back out, and the only thing to do is put your head down, charge, and "break on through to the other side".............................
So, I remove the starter and motor unit from the drill (easy, just take of the belt and slacken the adjustment, and it slides off as a unit) and I look over the electrics, and find that the flexible conduit twixt starter and motor wants remaking at both ends, and the connection box on the motor is hanging loose, so I correct the main wiring fault, so that green is now earth, and connected to the chassis, and red,white and blue are the phases, remake the flexible conduit at both ends, and add an extra earth wire between starter and motor, and then notice that the motor tail leads insulation is cracked and crumbly, so ok, need to take the connection box off anyway, because the two fixing screws behind it are loose, so I will solder new tails on to the windings. Disconnect the motor, remove it from the frame, and strip it down, fit new motor tails and fit them up with shrink sleeving, and then check the bearings............................which appear to be full of black treacle! Remove the bearings, wash through with petrol, and dry and there is a definite catch in the drive end bearing, but the other "looks" fine. No worries, jumps in car and belts off to local bearing shop for a replacement, winces a bit at the £14.00 price for a 5/8 x 1-9/16, but coughs up, and back to the shop. Good thing the rear bearing is ok, because it is a double row self aligning bearing @ £35, and they dont have it in anyway!
Rebuild the motor with repacked bearings, reassemble and refit to the drill and test...............and it is fine when running (well not fine, but fairly quiet, although I never noticed the bearings were particularly noisy before), but when I turn it off, a horrible noise comes from the bottom bearing!!! Strip again, clean and another visual on the bottom bearing, repack, rebuild, and refit, and test aaaaaand,
well it all happened so fast! I hear a tell tale ting ting ting as I start the motor, and I was a mite to slow! As I got to the stop button there was a flash and a pop, as the fan on the rotor cut through the insulation on one of the NEW motor tails, and the breaker tripped out! So, I gather my thoughts, and after running through a very colourful list of words I keep handy for these occasions, it's motor off, strip it again, more heat shrink over the tiny hole in the wire, and then realise that although I have tied the tails back to the windings very neatly, tying them back holds them in such a position that when you rotate the end caps to line up the through bolts, the tails will either move outwards, out of harms way, or inwards, and into the fan! I obviously got away with it the first time! The next problem is that when you short a phase out to the rotor, the currents path to earth is through the bearings, and sure enough, the new bearing now has a catch in it! As it is now nearly home time, I stick the bearings in my pocket, with the intention of ordering them on the net over the weekend. I order up two identical bearings, as I cannot see any reason why this motor (BTH) in this application would need a self aligning one, rebuild the motor AGAIN, and refit, and it runs very quietly indeed, but on two phases!!, so I look in the starter, and sure enough, it has taken out one of the overload coils, so I look in my collection and I actually have enough .010 nichrome wire , so I rewind the overload, service the starter while I am in there, and also replace the hairpin spring on the stop bar, which was taken out by the overload wire as it blew up. and now it runs perfectly, and is so so quiet and smooth. and its only take 3 days to do three hours work!
On examining the lower two row bearing under a magnifying glass, the balls, although perfectly shiny looking to the naked eye, are covered in tiny striations, which is where the noise was coming from, the treacle thick grease must have been masking it. It is now looking good, working fine and is oh so quiet and smooth, and electrically safe. I will finish the belt guard tomorrow, and post up some finished pics , but I have drilled holes with it, and TBH it is like using a completely different machine. A ball handle is on its way for the swivel lock, and I have also cured the loosenes in the quill pulley which caused an intermittent rattle as well, happy days, and back to the Covmac next week!
|Thread: CovMac Lathes|
Just looked through your album. I see yours is a Tullis built machine!
HI John, welcome back! that is truly awesome swarf collection, I note that your Covmac is the same colour as mine, was it reconditioned by I L Berridge as well? Does it have a war finish build plate on it? I have been sidetracked by my Grafton drill rebuild, but that is almost complete, and I expect to have my Covmac running next week! (said that about two weeks ago!), also, my daughter asks, and I would also like to know what it is that you are making?
|Thread: Just a small problem|
Helicoil it? can you get them that small, I don't know, but I use them all the time for thread replacement.
|Thread: Raglan Miller manual & dial removal|
Send me your email Chris, I have the manual in two pdf files, email@example.com. I believe there is also a raglan user site which may be of interest, and may also carry a downloadable manual.
|Thread: Colchester student feed issue|
There is a ball and spring clutch in the feed drive shaft which clicks loudly if the feed is jammed. can you post up some pics of the machine. I also have a mk1 roundhead student.
Phil, East Yorks.
|Thread: QCTP problems|
Looks like the clamp let go, or loosened off, which would perhaps indicate that the cam on the clamping spindle is not going over centre enough to provide a tight fit. POS!! Glad to hear you are on the mend OuBallie!
|Thread: be careful out there people!|
That sounds like HV, very nasty, glad to hear he is ok. A mate of mine just round the corner works for powergrid, and told me last year he had a cushy job on, replacing the safety "bagging" on a 36kv overhead line just outside a substation at Wansford, where the line crosses the canal, which is done live, from a cherry picker with an all insulated boom. They put it up empty and touch one of the conductors, and if it doesnt explode, they go up and do the job, he is a senior linesman, but not an electrical engineer, and his original trade was in precision engineering. Personally, as an electrical engineer, I simply would not have the bottle to go up and do that job, and I admire his lack of concern, and his classification of "cushy"
Dave Halford, Seperate earth wires were used up to about the late seventies and the flexible metal conduit glands had an outside connection for that earth wire, but machines seem to have gone over to armoured flexible cable with all lines and earth included, especially in food processes where machines are subject to daily washdowns.
Comments about colour blind sparks noted! I am not colour blind, but my father was, and I cannot remember if he put this cable on, or if it was on when we got the machine from another guy in the village, but whoever wired it needs his backside kicking...............................
needless to say I will be rewiring it all!!
Edited By Phil Whitley on 26/08/2019 16:21:50
|Thread: Boiler testing pump - plans ?|
I like it IanT! It has much of the steampunk about it, I just hope you didn't borrow the bread tin/tank from the kitchen!!
|Thread: Current leakage om CNC|
Take heed of the above! unfortunately it is very common to find that Chinese equipment has not had the earth connected at the appliance end! see Bigclivelive.com on you tube. Using a continuity tester, test from the earth pin on the plug to the chassis of the machine, and test different parts of the chassis! I have had some 240v led lighting units supplied in metal cases where I found earth wires unstripped and unconnected inside the case, although there was an earth fixing point right next to the cable entry!
|Thread: be careful out there people!|
This one had me scratching my head, and could have been very dangerous. just shows the importance of giving the electrics a once over inspection before using a machine for the first time.
Just wired some three phase sockets for some machines that have been repositioned, plug in the Grafton drill press, and what do you know, it runs backwards! No problem, reverse a couple of phases in the plug and all will be well, so whips off the plug top, reverses red and white phase, refit and test again. the machine is now running slowly and growling a bit(two phasing/ phase missing) so I shut off and take off the plug top again, thinking I have botched one of the connections, but no, all are correct and tight. It is only on close inspection that I notice that the green wire (earth) is actually connected to a phase, and the white wire which I swapped with the red, is also connected to a phase!. Took the lid off the starter to find that red green and blue have been used for L1 L2 and L3, and white used as earth!!! The problem is that the pin designations are moulded into the red plastic, but are not coloured, so the whole thing is just red! later plugs have a green sticker by the earth pin.When I reversed the red and white connections, the motor was running on 2 phases and earth, and the chassis of the machine was connected directly to a phase! Luckily I was wearing safety boots, and as soon as something like this happens, I go into hyper vigilant mode until I have sorted it out, and part of that is not touching any metalwork, so I had pressed the starter button very carefully. At worst I would have got a 240v shock, which whist unpleasant, is rarely fatal unless you are standing in water, or grasping earthed metalwork with the other hand, which is why we were all trained to work with one hand in the pocket when working live. For the observant, yes, that is asbestos dust in the starter, which has come from the insulators on the overloads, and will be vacuumed out, and the asbestos replaced with glass fibre tape, using suitable PPE! I would fit another starter to replace this antique MEM Startet, which has no NVR, but £45 for a starter + £16 for the suitable overload set seem a little excessive for a fractional hp motor.
|Thread: coolant pump|
place a peice of suitable sized pipe over the coolant outlet and blow down it, if you can hear the coolant bubbling, you know the pump is immersed, and there are no bloackages, if you cant blow down it, there is a blockage, or a valve in the line somwhere which is turned off. If you can blow down it, try pouring some coolant down it and try again. is it three phase? pump running wrong way? Hope this helps!
|Thread: Boiler testing pump - plans ?|
one of these should suffice, there are several different ones on the market less than £30, and some which are inexplicably expensive, but yer takes yer money etc etc!
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