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Member postings for Phil Whitley

Here is a list of all the postings Phil Whitley has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Removing bang in self tappers
27/09/2020 20:28:35

I tap a stanley blade under the head of the screw, or under the plate it is holding on, and they generally come loose quite easily!

Thread: Lathe light
20/09/2020 16:44:02

If you check in the transformer box for the light , you may find there are different voltage tappings on the transformer, so you may be able to change the voltage to one which you can get an LED bulb for. , search for xx volt BC led lamp. This came up before on one of the forums I frequent, and I found some LED BC lamps which were for canal boats, so they can be bought! You could make one out of an old BC bulb cap with an led lamp soldered into it, or also you can get adapters for BC-SBC and BC to ES or SES


Edited By Phil Whitley on 20/09/2020 16:46:44

Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
19/09/2020 17:37:16
Yes folks, engine back in and almost running, and for once it almost all goes smoothly. It is a good thing that I did go this far into the engine, because if I hadn't, the corroded oil cooler and oil feed pipes would have ensured that the engine had a life of about 20 minutes! It will run early next week! Make comments, give me a like, and please subscribe.
in warm and sunny East Yorkshire!
12/09/2020 20:02:23

Hi Steve, I will because it is too late to go back now!

Phil, (originally from Pudsey!)

11/09/2020 22:36:49
Trials and tragedies, the ups and downs of another week in my workshop! The 2CV engine goes back together, the broken exhaust manifold which started this sorry tale gets welded, and the whole project shudders slowly forwards. Laugh, cry, subscribe, comment, but thanks for watching, and I hope you enjoy it as much as I haven't enjoyed making it! I WILL get there in the end!
Summer is switched off on the 31 of August in East Yorkshire

Edited By Phil Whitley on 11/09/2020 22:37:30

Edited By Phil Whitley on 11/09/2020 22:38:28

Thread: Steel stock for newbie ???
10/09/2020 21:12:39

I am not a model engineer, but the things I make and repair vary from the very small to the very large, and I grab any shape or size of any metal that comes my way. It gets catergorised into strip, bar, tube, angle channel etc for steel, and for all non ferrous, it is sorted by metal type. As new and better stuff is found, I send the less good quality stuff to the scrapman, or give it away to anyone who wants it. If you are going to build a project, just order the stuff you need, to the nearest round amount, and start your metal stores with offcuts and remainders. All you need to know is, is it machinable, is it hardenable, how hard can it be made, and could it be case hardened and be adequate? Most hard steels can be softened, worked and machined, and then rehardened, and old tools are an excellent source of hardenable carbon steel, especially files!

Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
10/09/2020 10:37:37

Hi Richard, you are more than welcome to come and spend a day at the workshop, anytime to suit you. My Daughter Izzi starts at York doing Biochemistry on the 28th, and we have to take her on the 26th (I think) so 26th is out, I am not there at weekends, but if you can think of a day convenient for you give me a shout!


09/09/2020 20:28:34

Ok good to hear! the tighter you put the screw in the harder the clutch is set, and the more you risk damage if you get a jam (OBVS!!)

09/09/2020 20:21:37

Your balls look to be sticking to far outwink If you have only put two balls in and then the spring, the spring may have been forced betwen the balls, hence they wont push back into the shaft as they should!

Edited By Phil Whitley on 09/09/2020 20:26:30

09/09/2020 20:16:33

Please excuse the crap drawing, but like this!

09/09/2020 19:58:42

Something is wrong there Richard, I have had my feed shaft clutch in and out quite a few times and have never had any trouble with my balls (fnaar fnaar) There should be three balls, two of which project from the holes in the feed shaft, and a third which presses on the first two, and then you fit the spring and the screwed plug. The amount that you screw the plug in provides the clutch adjustment. If when under load the tool digs in and the feed shaft stops, the balls are forced back into the shaft, allowing the boss to rotate, but not the shaft, thus not mangling any gears. If there is no screwed plug on yours, and a longer spring has been fitted to get over this, you may need to cut the spring down. Is there a thread inside the shaft wwhere the balls and spring fit in?


Edited By Phil Whitley on 09/09/2020 19:59:59

Thread: Mk1 Colchester student clutch
08/09/2020 21:26:14

The top belt pulley has the brake mechanism inside it, sounds like it is binding, the clutch, if fitted, is inside the headstock, from what you describe, the brake needs adjusting, when you push the handle down to stop the lathe, if you keep pushing it applies the brake.

Thread: Cutting oil ( Suds) resistant paint
04/09/2020 21:56:41

+1 for Paragon paints from Stationary engines, but also Tractol from your local Agri engineers is good.


Thread: How to move a Colchester Student ?
04/09/2020 21:46:42

The only problem is on and off the trailer, the engine crane will probably not lift it fully assembled. The student has a tapped hole in the bed which is the lifting point, tapped 7/8 whitworth, get a lifting eye. open the top drawer, and remove the electrical panel, and you will see the bolts that hold the lathe to the cabinet, remove them, there are only three, take off the end cover, the belts and the chuck, and remove the reversing and on/off switches from the lathe, but leave them connected. Fit the lifting eye, lock the tailstock onto the bed at the end, and lift the lathe off the cabinet, using the saddle traverse to balance it. Remove the studs from the bed underneath and the lathe can now be lowered onto the legs of the engine crane, and moved to the trailer like this. Make sure the engine crane wheels are perfectly free and well oiled, and sweep any concrete of any dirt or grit before you attempt to cross it. If the going is rough, two 8x4 3/4" plywood sheets will help. All lathes tend to be top heavy, and moving them fully assembled has to br done very carfully with respect to this fact. Don't (I am sure you won't but) put ratchet straps or ropes round or pushing onto the lead screw or feed drive rod, and don't lift by the chuck or the spindle!


Edited By Phil Whitley on 04/09/2020 21:52:07

Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
04/09/2020 21:01:47

Victory at last! I finish making the pushrod tubes and the retainers, and get them fitted, more parts arrive, and the barrels and pistons go back on! She is going back together. Soon I will be able to refit the broken exhaust manifold and weld the pipe up, thus fixing the reason that all this nightmare happened. Watch, like, subscribe, comment, be amazed that I finally stopped procrastinating and got stuck into it!


Autumnal, but still quite warm, East yorkshire

Edited By Phil Whitley on 04/09/2020 21:03:10

Thread: Blown band saw circuit.
29/08/2020 13:57:58

Agreed Les! That would work. it looks like the switches can be unclipped from the relay, I wonder if the box can be opened for posible inspection and cleaning of the contacts?


Thread: My week this week! My workshop videos
29/08/2020 13:35:34
Ignore the title folks, just an algoritham experiment! STILL waiting on deliveries, but despite the black dog this week ended on a high note, the second two pushrod tubes are out without much problem, and next week I will be rebuilding the engine (when my piston ring compressor arrives) Be sure to see what we found under the trestle table that was in the shed, quite an interesting bit of military history! I ramble on a bit this week, please bear with me and try to like, subscribe and Comment, even if it is only to shout "Stop procrastinating and GET ON WITH IT!!!"
Its not raining today, at the moment anyway,
East Yorkshire.
Thread: Blown band saw circuit.
27/08/2020 18:10:18

Thanks for that Les, that sounds very piss poor to me, but makes sense when you read the diagram!

26/08/2020 20:45:21

what do you mean by "the trip button" If you mean the overload trip, that should lock in when you press it, and stay locked in till the circiit overloads and trips, if it does not lock in when you push it in (try hard push) the the overload trip is faulty, and that is why it is not working. Try holding the o/l button in and pressing the start button to see if it runs. The overload trip should have continuity through it all the time. the button is to reset it after it has tripped.Please show the start and stop buttons on the diagram! If you have nothing between 2 and 6 when the contactor is held in, that is the fault, 2 and 6 are the circuit that hold the contactor "in" once the start button is released


Thread: Colchester Student Mk1 Won't Start
25/08/2020 10:08:23

Looking at the springs, and small box section steel construction of Richards lamp, I think it is made by the Anglepoise company, Probably by the Terry spring co who made them under licence The lower part of the lamp is the same as other anglepoise lamps I have, which fit into a cast iron base for desk use. Early pictures of the Student Mk1 shows them with this light fitted.  Mine has the later MEM "Memlite", made by Midlands Electrical Manufacturing in Birmingham. the Memlite does not have the advantage of the anglepoise, which moves easily into any position, and stays there!

MEM Memlite

Edited By Phil Whitley on 25/08/2020 10:23:39

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