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Member postings for lfoggy

Here is a list of all the postings lfoggy has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Mill base?
06/01/2021 20:55:19
Posted by Andrew Johnston on 06/01/2021 19:08:44:

The GH doesn't look like a universal mill to me? The term is often mis-used to indicate a machine that has horizontal and vertical milling capability. The correct usage indicates a (horizontal) milling machine where the table swivels to allow helical milling in conjunction with an appropriate dividing head:

helical gear cutting lh.jpg


Helpful contribution, thanks. Make sure you point out any spelling and grammar errors as well.....

Edited By lfoggy on 06/01/2021 20:57:52

Thread: Can you guess what this object is?
06/06/2020 17:10:05

Looks a bit like my son's cycling aero 'time trial' helmet.

Thread: 10.5mm counterbore - 3.5mm depth in cast iron with a pillar drill
06/06/2020 16:23:53


I think that should be possible if you use a counterbore with a pilot. Like these..

Will generate a nice flat bottomed counterbore. You are limited to available sizes unless you can grind one up yourself (which is entirely doable as well).


Thread: Another way to cut a face groove
06/06/2020 15:01:00
Posted by ega on 06/06/2020 13:51:29:


Was that impressive toolpost base in your photo not written up somewhere?

Loosely based on something I saw on YouTube. Its just a block of cast iron machined to fit the cross slide, nothing special. Has really improved the rigidity of the toolpost though. Because of its size the whole cross slide is stiffened as well.

06/06/2020 12:39:23
Posted by blowlamp on 06/06/2020 12:20:09:

I'd have used my milling machine and rotary table, but only because I don't have a Quick Step attachment for my lathe. smiley

Yes, that was 'plan B' and would have worked fine as well.

06/06/2020 11:55:53

A few days ago I posted a question about how to cut the face groove on this part of the Quorn Mk3 I'm building

quorn groove 3.jpg

There were plenty of suggestions including making a trepanning tool, purchasing a face grooving tool or making a multi-tooth cutter like a hole cutter.

I tried making a trepanning tool but by the time I had ground the necessary relief on the 1.6mm wide, 4.9mm deep tool, there was almost nothing left and it snapped immediately. I do not have the necessary grinder to make a curved trepanning tool. Commercial tools are available but £100 to cut a few grooves was not justifiable. I also did not have a piece of silver steel of the right size to hand to make the 'hole saw' type tool. I therefore arrived at another solution.

I've got a 'Quick Step' toolpost mounted milling attachemnt and set this up in the lathe as so..

20200606_101122 (2).jpg

The chuck was set rotating at 20rpm and the 1.6mm slot drill was running at 4000rpm. The carriage feed was set to 0.04mm/lathe revolution.

20200606_101142 (2).jpg

Worked rather well. The 4.9mm depth was reached without misshap on both parts.

20200606_103006 (2).jpg

Resulting slot was almost exactly to the specified 20.6mm i.d.

20200606_105047 (2).jpg

This is the first tme I have used the Quick Step in this way with the workpiece rotating but seemed to work. Result !

Thread: Non standard taps - what are they ?
03/06/2020 17:38:11

Now all you need is a 7mm x 1.1mm die and your could incorporate 'Lionheart' threads into future projects.

Thread: How do I machine this groove?
01/06/2020 19:19:47

Thank you everyone that is very helpful.

I already have a Deckel SO clone grinder which is quite versatile so I am going to try and grind a suitable curved single-point face grooving tool and see how I get on with that. If that doesn't work I will make a cutter like ega's pictures.

You may well ask why I am building a Quorn if I already have a decent tool and cutter grinder. I don't really have an answer to that....

01/06/2020 16:31:39
Posted by ega on 01/06/2020 16:29:26:

Unless the design has been changed this is well covered in the book.

I could post a photo of the cutters I made for the job if this would help.

I don't have the book, just the drawings!

Yes, pics of your cutters would be great.

01/06/2020 16:30:11
Posted by JasonB on 01/06/2020 16:17:33:

You could also make a tool like a hole saw out of Silver steel, turn to 20.6mm and bore to 23.9 adding a tiny amount of relief if needed by setting the topslide over a degree or two. Then cut some teeth in the end, I would just have a few so you can get a good gullet to clear swarf.

I like that idea.

01/06/2020 16:28:40
Posted by Martin Connelly on 01/06/2020 16:11:12:

Sorry, thought you were talking about the internal grooves. The external ones require a trepanning tool. Should be plenty of references in the forum or the internet.

Martin C

Thread on grinding a trepanning tool

Link added

Edited By Martin Connelly on 01/06/2020 16:15:01

The groove is 1.65mm wide and 4.9mm deep. Is a face trepanning tool really going to work do you think? The tool would be very fragile.

01/06/2020 16:05:12

I don't follow you there Martin. The groove is on the face of the part, not in the bore. There are some grooves in the bore as well which are easy....

Thread: Are there any published Torque settings for BA
01/06/2020 15:31:31

I've never seen or heard of any torque settings for small BA fasteners and I've never come across a torque wrench that has a suitable low range either. I'm sure these things exist but probably not really necessary. A firm 'finger tight' with a BA spanner should be OK. The threads are stronger than you think....

Thread: How do I machine this groove?
01/06/2020 14:30:08

I'm currently building the Quorn Mk3 and am working on the spindle assembly. The threaded end caps to the spindle assembly incorporate an annular groove as part of the labyrinth seals, machined into the face of the caps, that is 1.6mm wide, 4.9mm deep. I've never machined anything quite like this before. What's the best way to achieve this ? To machine it on the lathe would require a special cutter with considerable clearance which I think would be quite fragile.I am thinking of maybe milling it with a slot mill on the rotary table....

quorn groove 3.jpg

Thread: Wilding’s tower clock
27/05/2020 21:40:08

I would not recommend it as a first clock to be honest. The first clock I built some 25 years ago was a Wilding eight-day wall clock. I remember finding this a challenge and I made many mistakes generating a lot of scrap metal in the process. The advantage of a medium sized clock like this is that the materials are not too expensive if you need couple of goes to get things right. Its also not so small as to be fiddly. The turret clock is not that much more complicated but so much larger. The main wheel for example requires a five inch diameter and 3/8 thick brass blank. I would want a bit of practice and confidence under my belt before starting to cut metal !

How about the eight-day long case clock by Alan Timmins ? Good design and a well written and a clear book to go with it.

Thread: 5C collet chuck, direct mount D1-3 or backplate?
26/05/2020 19:25:44

Some great suggestions, thanks.

As it happens I already have all the metric collects in 1mm increments so another reason to go with the 5C.

I will order the 5C chuck with the direct mount D1-3. Brilliant suggestion from Clive that if it turns out unsatisfactory I could just convert to backplate mount. Hadn't thought if that.

Thread: Single point threading
26/05/2020 17:13:12
Posted by Ronald Morrison on 26/05/2020 15:42:17:

I have a terrible time threading up to a shoulder as I can't seem to stop the carriage just at the right time with the motor turning the spindle so I made up a crank that would turn the spindle. That lets me turn the spindle very slowly, much slower than the motor will go and I can then stop the turning just where I want.

I tried that on my lathe but it is too large to really use a hand crank Even if you get the spindle to turn smoothly you can't see the work from where you are standing. I then fitted a three phase motor and inverter which allows you to dial down the speed to <10rpm when you apprach the shoulder. Works very well.

Edited By lfoggy on 26/05/2020 17:14:16

Thread: 5C collet chuck, direct mount D1-3 or backplate?
26/05/2020 15:18:24

I've just watched Stefan Gotteswinter's YouTube video on inexpensive 5C collet chucks and he was very positive about them. His example at least was accurate and well made. I think one of these would be really useful in my workshop. My lathe has a D1-3 camlock spindle and these chucks are available with direct mount camlock fitting or a plain back for a backplate at about the same price. Direct mount camlock would be lighter, have less overhang and be cheaper as there is no backplate to buy but there would be no opportunity to adjust the concentricity of the chuck which you can do when mounting on a backplate. Not sure what to go for. Has anyone purchased one with the integral camlock fitting and how good was it?

Re camlock backplates, I've found that cheap ones can be very poor and not fit properly on the camlock taper. A decent one is £100...

Thread: Single point threading
26/05/2020 14:58:04

The main advantage to screw-cutting a thread of this size is concentricity. For jobs like this I often start by establishing a straight thread using the lathe then finish with a die which finishes the thread form.

Thread: My Quorn
25/05/2020 10:11:37

As it happens I am currently building a Quorn Mk 3. Working on the spindle asssembly at the moment.

I'm wondering what to do about the ball handles. I don't mind making them but are they really more practcal than cap head screws operated by allen keys? Don't they just get in the way?

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