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Member postings for Cabeng

Here is a list of all the postings Cabeng has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: So, now i have removed the Clarkson chuck should i stick with it?
27/08/2011 13:26:45
I don't think I've come across this - any chance that you might post a picture please?
There's one in the album now Norman. Should make it clear. I hope!
Thread: Myford online auction
27/08/2011 11:53:07
Interestingly some of these prices were more than the liquidators were willing to sell for at their sale and at that time they promised the lathes would be completed as they were going to keep on some original Myford staff for this purpose.
The Connoisseur was £9134 incl. VAT at the sale event - I know this because I bought it! I was promised that it would be completed, tested, etc during the coming week, ready for collection 10 days later.
It wasn't ready, it had the problems I listed above. The missing parts were with RDG, there was an agreement that they would return them when they had sorted everything out - but of course when that would happen was an unknown quantity, and it was for sure that whenever it was there would be no-one left to finish the machine anyway. As the liquidator had not, and could not, fulfill the contract, I terminated it. I must say that there was no problem whatsoever in doing this.
In its place I decided to take the long bed show lathe, which was cheaper - I hadn't bought this at the sale as I didn't think I could find space for it in the workshop, but I had subsequently found that this would in fact be possible. After sorting out an administrative hiccup, the price difference was promptly refunded to my bank account.
So, it's now auctioned for £7069 incl. premium and VAT - well, given that it wasn't finished, that seems reasonable to me, but not a bargain. But I hope the purchaser knows how to set that leadscrew up and dowel the end bracket, it's a very critical alignment.
Thread: So, now i have removed the Clarkson chuck should i stick with it?
27/08/2011 02:00:40
Once upon a time I had Myford 2MT collets for the S7, a 30INT Clarkson for the mill horizontal spindle and a 3MT Clarkson for the vertical spindle - but different designs, collets weren't interchangeable.
Many moons ago I changed over to ER32 collets with appropriate chucks for the various spindles. A very good move, I've never regretted it, so I would definitely suggest moving over to ER collets.
I've never had a problem with end mills coming out of an ER collet, or slipping in any way. I do, however, use what I believe is called a milling nut if I'm doing relatively heavy cutting - this has some sort of roller bearing arrangement between the nut body and the bit that bears on the nose of the collet, so that less of the tightening torque goes into friction and more is left to close the collet harder.
I also use them extensively for workholding in the S7 - someone is bound to chip in that they're not designed for this purpose, but worry ye not, they work very well in this mode!
A couple of points you should be aware of:-
1) The full bore length of the collet should be used for gripping work or cutter - never use less than 2/3rds of the length as accuracy will fall of dramatically.
2) Accuracy also tends to fall off slightly as a collet is closed down towards its minimum diameter, so they're at their best when used close to their maximum diameter.
3) And it's well worth changing over to metric cutters, because they fit the collets better - closing a 7-6mm collet onto a 1/4" end mill takes a fair bit of spannering.
For a combination of 2) and 3), I don't find them very useful for holding drills, and wouldn't normally use them for drills in the range say x.1 - x.5 mm, where x = 2mm - 19mm for ER32 collets.
Oh, the size of the ER32 nut sometimes gets in the way when using short, small diameter cutters - Murphy inevitably decides that the nut will tend to clout the bolts holding the work down! Murphy gets put in his place by having an ER20 parallel shank chuck and collets, which can be held in the the ER32 chuck.

Thread: Myford online auction
25/08/2011 23:55:14
The Connoisseur is definitely not finished - no nameplate, no labels, no CE mark, no fiduciary line on the cross slide or the tailstock, no final test, and most importantly, no dowels in the leadscrew bracket at the tailstock end - they're not just missing, the leadscrew hasn't been aligned and the holes for the dowels haven't been drilled, which apparently is only done after final test and alignment has been completed.
The leadscrew dowels are missing from some other machines - load an appropriate picture that shows the bracket clearly and use the zoom tool - if the dowels can't be seen they probably aren't there. They are cleary visible on completed machines
Thread: S7 Newall DRO v Taper Turning attachment
27/07/2011 23:20:25
I can't find a way of doing this at the moment - 'message member' doesn't seem to allow attachments. Not even taper turning attachments!
Unless someone can tell me how to do it, I'm going to need your direct e-mail address - I've sent you mine via the 'message member' facility, if you respond via your 'normal' e-mail address I'll send them to you - 2 drawings, A3 size.
I hope you've been metricated!
26/07/2011 23:44:38
First posting and upload of photographs, so I hope this goes ok!
Peter: some photos uploaded to an album. Yes, the plate is mounted via the TT attachment holes in the bed.
These are actually photos of the first Newall Microsyn installation onto an S7, about which I wrote an article or two which were published in MEW about 2002 - give or take a year! Since then I've found it to be perfectly satisfactory, and I'm about to repeat the installation on another machine. Newall must also think it satisfactory, since they've based their design for their S7 installation kit on it, albeit with the reading head mounted lower, by virtue of it being vertically oriented as opposed to horizontally in my design!
KWIL's installation appears to be on similar lines, but with some differences, one of which is worth pointing out.
I leave the taper attachment permanently installed - fitting and aligning one of these things is best done only once! The pin on the attachment slide is therefore a permanent feature, but it has to be low enough to allow the crosslide DRO scale to clear it. Which in turn means that to use the attachment it is necessary to make an extension pin that attaches to the original one.
My original extension was in the form of a very close fitting sleeve that slipped over the original pin. Inevitably there must be some small clearance and that allows the extension to tip slightly when the saddle moves one way, and tip in the opposite direction when going the other way - which introduces what can best be described as backlash in the taper cutting path.
KWIL's unit seems to be mounted somewhat lower than mine, so the tipping/backlash effect will be greater. I suggest that you consider mounting the attachment as high as possible, as per my original drawings in MEW. If you want those drawings I can send them to you direct as .pdf files.
Rather than use a sleeve attachment, it's much better to us a clamping system to extend the extension pin - I don't have any photographs of this, but I do have a drawing, so I can send that as well. The pin on this extension arm is a replica of the bit that attaches to the cross slide bracket, so it gives a direct connection between the saddle and the taper turning slide, no backlash there. But even with that it's still advisable to mount the TT attachment as high as possible to minimise twist loadings on the ways and gib of the TT slide.
Oh, a very important point here - if you do use a direct, clamped, connection, the TT atachment must be PERFECTLY level with the top of the bed, or the TT attachement will try to push the saddle up or down - which is, I suspect, why the Myford original pin is a sleeve/sliding fit, to allow it to move up and down a bit if the attachment is not in perfect alignment with the shears. If you're not confident about getting this set up spot-on right, stick to the sleeve arrangement, making it a good a fit on the original pin as you can. And mounting the attachment as high as possible, of course!
With a low-backlash connection (only the original slide ways and gibs contribute now) setting tapers becomes very easy using the DRO - just zero both axes, then move the saddle one way for say 3", and adjust the TT slide until the cross slide reading shows that you have the required movement to produce the taper.

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