Here is a list of all the postings RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Ring Mount|
Hi John, yes that's what I have.
Roy, thanks for the link. I will explore options.
Nick, that is my plan but I am struggling to get a good design for the ring mount to clamp the front ring. I have difficulty figuring out the clamping/locking design as my lathe and mill can handle. I have no CNC capabilities to get the ring to have a side locking screw.
Yes Michael, similar to that. The lens is an AF-S mine is the older model AF-D. Same optics and elements. Also same length. The difference is the focusing mechanism. The one you show rotates to focus and had a built in ring mount at the rear. My lens is a push - pull telephoto to adjust focal length and rotate to focus (manually). The other difference is the speed they AutoFocus.
My plan is to make a ring on the front of the lens to attach to a slim bracket under to connect to the rear of the lens. This bracket would not interfere with the focal length and focusing barrel. This would allow me to get the center of gravity of the camera/lens combination to mount to a tripod. The problem I have to solve is to design a ring clamping mechanism. I have seen a few including the Kirk designed to this specific lens. Im having difficulty with manual machining to do the clamping mechanism of the ring. I will do a full aluminium ring and bracket. Any design idea would help.
I will upload some photos once I have the time.
Hi to all. I was just wondering how to build a ring mount manually. I plan to use this to hold my camera lens. The lens is a Nikon 80 - 200mm f2.8 AF-D push-pull telephoto lens. As you know this lens is quite old but its the foundation of one of Nikon's best telephoto lens. To others here that loves photography will know what I'm describing. The down side to this lens apart from an average AF speed is that it has no ring mount to use on a tripod due to the way the telephoto mechanism functions (push - pull). I don't want to part with this classic and very sharp lens (easier to upgrade). I have this in storage most of its life but lately I have re-started to go back to photography again.
I'm having difficulty trying to design a holding ring so I can attach a custom bracket to run the length of the lens to enable me to attach it to a tripod for stability. There are after market brace for this from Kirk and F & L but it cost around 170 GBP for a piece of CNC bracket. I have a lathe and a milling machine so I can put this to use. One thing I thought of is to buy a telescope bracket but I might not find the right "fit".
The difficulty is how to design the locking mechanism of the ring. I don't have a CNC machine. Any thoughts and ideas from expert here will be most welcome.
|Thread: Travelling Steady|
Hi everyone, Just wondering what is your own preferred way of using the travelling steady to turn smaller diameter shafts. I'm turning a 12.5 mm aluminium rod to 12 mm x 80 mm. I support the end with a revolving center and the travelling steady. I placed my cutting tool just after the travelling steady so that when turning I would avoid the brass fingers damaging the work. Its a hit and miss as the tool sometimes digs in and damaging the work. I see others on youtube putting the cutting tool ahead of the travelling steady thereby supporting the desired diameter size but they are turning steel which is not affected by the softer brass fingers. If I do this with aluminium would the fingers damaged the turned area? I did not attempt this method so far, I would like your opinion first. Thanks! Sorry for this questions, I know I should do research first but I guess the knowledge here is worth it.
|Thread: AC Capacitor|
Just an updates:
Compressor is working fine with capacitor change. Settled for the specific compressor oil as per JUN-AIR recommendation. Thanks for all your help.
Thanks Clive. I don't want to sound stupid but can I use a motor oil? I have search online for equivalent SAE viscosity for S27 but i could not find any. I don't no if anybody here have any knowledge with regards to this. Im just curious as to why its very expensive for 1L of S27 oil. If I can substitute it to a more affordable equivalent then it would be a lot of cost savings. I might be cutting cost but in the long run damage the mechanical part and pay the price. It would be good to hear all of your opinion here. Thanks again for everyone contributing to this discussion.
Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 26/03/2019 19:01:19
Thanks for the support gents. Im in the UK if anybody is wondering with regards to the power supply. Its great to have a very helpful and informative suggestions and opinion here.
Robert, the piston is not seized. I have taken the cap off and cranked the top bearing with a 4mm steel bar that fits in the slot and its easily turned by hand, I must admit I need to change the oil as its never been change since I bought it second hand (no idea if it was changed previously). In terms of oil, 1 liter of SJ-27 (recommended oil for JUN-AIR) is around 30 GBP!!! and I think my compressor need at least 1.5L. Does anybody here use equivalent oil rating in their compressor other than the brand recommends? Splashing out 60 GBP for the oil is not easy.
John, yes it has start relay and got the 3 pins (i will counter check when I go home) to make sure it has 3 pins. If the capacitor does not work then I will look into it. Getting the right part will be challenging as my model is dated 1980, I could not see any motor (orange) model (I guess its the older version with 15 L tank coloured green). I tried the website but I guess they are all the updated models although there might be a possibility that it share a common internal and electrical parts. Just getting the right part for the right motor size would be the way to go i think.
Yes it do have a venting system/valve to let air out of the system. The compressor is the silent type, same as the compressor used for refrigeration. You could barely hear it running. Its a JUN-AIR silent compressor. I have disconnected the motor from the tank itself to make sure there is no pressure locking on the system to eliminate the pressure switch and tank side. This is how I suspect the capacitor is not working. Got the specs you have suggested, lets hope that it will cure the problem. Thanks once again for the help.
Cheers Bill, thanks for this. I will get the capacitor as Simon stated. I will post the result if it cures the problem.
Thanks Simon, great help. I hope this is an easy fix as I really valued this old compressor. Jus another follow up question, do I need a motor start or motor run capacitor? Is the 450 volts to high for the 270 that I have? I appreciate your explanation, I just don't want to blow things up or fry the motor.
I need help for identifying replacement capacitor for my Jun-Air silent compressor. Its started to hum and just turns off. I don't know if its short cycling or not. It seems like the capacitor is unable to turn the motor. Hope somebody point me to the right direction. I have checked the pressure switch and also isolated the motor from the tank itself and it just hum and then turn off. The capacitor has a rating of 45-60 uF, 270 volts R.M.S. max type KSLJ.
Can somebody with expertise help me towards the right direction or give me correct advice. Its easy for me to look for an electrician that specialise on this but i would like to try to fix it if its just the capacitor and will save me a lot. Thanks in advance.
|Thread: Carbide insert|
Thanks Neil, will try to increase RPM.
Thanks Andrew. Always good to learn from well experience members here. Not that i don't do research of my own but the forum is just a gold mine and collection of knowledge and years of engineering experience and I find it very useful as everyone here always helps out.
I can see the difference with the insert you posted. The one I have is on the left, unpolished. I will try to get the polished one as suggested. The holder is used but not abused and looks Ok. It was just given to me by a friend who works in a CNC lathe fabrication. Its a tool he is not using and was thankful that he gave it to me for testing. If all works well then maybe I can invest on carbide tools although I honestly still preferred HSS. I'm also willing to give carbide tools ago hence this test. I have a lot to learn and appreciate all the inputs I can get here.
Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 11/10/2018 22:39:11
pgk, I will try to increase RPM although my lathe won't go as high as 8000 as suggested. The tip is likely a CCMT though I'm not 100% sure about this. I'm not also sure if its intended for aluminium. Its cutting as it make a long annoying strands of aluminium instead of chips with a DOC around 10 to 15 thou.
Hi FMES, I have no idea if this insert is intended for aluminium solely. It came with the holder that was given to me.
I am new to this type of tooling and having used HSS I tried carbide both on facing and turning for the first time. I was reducing a 22 mm round aluminium bar to around 19 mm. Everything was tight and in order, the only difference is now I'm using a carbide tip instead of HSS. RPM was around 600, works supported by the tailstock. There was a screeching noise during the cut. I reduce the RPM to as low as 300 and it still produce the noise. The tip is ok and I even counter check this on a magnifying lens. The torque screw is tight, the holder is a 8mm square bar to fit the MS-7 tool post. I'm not experiencing this with HSS am I missing something? The overhang is around 15 to 20 mm and I understand carbide will be efficient at higher RPM cutting mild steel is this different with aluminium? Thanks for the replies.
Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 11/10/2018 19:40:46
|Thread: ER 32 collet holder run out|
I managed to set it as much as my adjustments permits. Current reading on my DTI is .01 mm which is 0.393701 (in thousandth of an inch). Is this an acceptable tolerance? For what I do I can accept it but what do others think?
For future reference in which others might encounter this with this set up, this is what I did to bring it to that tolerance.
1. Register is on the loose side to allow sufficient adjustment (but not to loose).
2. I have to reduce the diameter of the supplied allen bolt head to around 8.8 mm to allow movement for adjustment as the original allen bolt head diameter does not allow this. This saved me from re-boring and counter boring the collet chuck holder as the tolerance on the original bore is critical on the periphery (to big and the side will be thin).
3. An accurate and precision collet with a tight runout will further help with accuracy
1. I think the register on the back of the collet chuck is not that accurate.
2. The backplate PCD is also not accurate with the collet chuck's PCD.
3. the allen bolt supplied had a big head diameter (The counter bore on the collet chuck is I think big enough, to big of a counter bore will run the risk of a thin walled area on the collet chuck's peripheral margins).
Perhaps its best to have a single collet system like the ER 25 which is directly screwed to the spindle of Myford lathe. However having the backplate and collet holder system allow for someone to fine tune the system to almost zero reading. Other factor that I needs further testing is how accurate the taper is and accuracy will be further enhance with a precision collets and lock nut.
Any additional thoughts will be most welcome. Hope this will help others in the future.
Thanks Bill, I will try clock it tomorrow. I will update results after. Have fun and enjoy your new purchase, I have no luck on getting a Boxford shaper so far.
Did you just skimmed the register after Bill? Did you do a tight fit on it or a bit undersize to allow to tap it?
Got it Ian. Thanks. I might be a bit impatience and like you said be on the gentle side in tapping. I will try it again tomorrow and report back progress and if no luck then the chuck might be a good paper weight.
Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 06/10/2018 00:06:05
Edited By RAPHAEL VAL GOLEZ 1 on 06/10/2018 00:06:25
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.