Here is a list of all the postings Tomfilery has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
The chemical you mention is Alum, however, I managed to get a broken small drill (1.5mm dia) out of a brass item by leaving it soaking overnight in citric acid. The next day the drill had basically turned to rust and could be poked out with a scriber.
If you use clean citric acid, rather than some which has had copper in it, you won't get a deposit of copper on your item.
|Thread: Is CAD for Me?|
Although TurboCad won't read your image files directly, you can insert them into a "drawing".
I frequently insert images (usually jpeg ones, perhaps copied from a book, or magazine) into a drawing, then blow them up to the correct size for my project. You often have to scale them separately for X and Y and most drawings do have some degree of distortion, so you won't be able to "trace" an image ultra accurately.
I usually draw my drawing, based upon the information in the image, then move the image over the drawing to check it looks about right.
Have done it with all sorts of locos and rolling stock - even used it to draw out a wagon, based on a few key measurements and a photograph.
|Thread: Myford Super 7 and ER40 collet chuck|
Too late for Mike, but just in case anyone else is interested - Gloster Tooling now do a range of larger ER32 collets which extend the 20 mill max (of ER320) up to 1 inch. That said, they are very expensive (around £20 each), so the extended range alone would cost as much as a complete set of the sizes up to 20mm. Might help get someone out of a hole and as Mike initially observed, being able to hold 1 inch material is quite handy.
|Thread: Natural gas for TIG welding|
Andrew beat me to it!!!
Hope you like explosions!
The reason they use argon is because it is inert, natural gas isn't.
Some MIG welders use CO2 as a shielding gas, but it depends on what material you are welding (I think).
|Thread: 45mm Narrow gauge locomotive drawings|
In general, they are few and far between.
Wild Rose is a 2 foot gauge quarry Hunslet, which would run on 32mm track. If you built it to 7/8" scale (rather than 16mm) that would run on 45mm (as Bill suggests).
Otherwise, there is Keith Bucklitch's Brazil (now a very old design) and his Izubuntu (Isubuntu??) - which was meant to be built using no-longer available Roundhouse parts (for the cylinders and motion), so wasn't a "build it from scratch" job.
On the 16mm Association website, under resources are details of a couple more locos - but weird ones, rather than the general "British outline" you requested.
|Thread: TurboCAD Dimensions Query|
IIRC you have to add your first dimension "normally" - i.e. not using the datum options.
Once you have the first one done, you can then select the appropriate alternative style (addititve, or referenced from one end) as necessary. And no, you don't have to turn the snaps off to use them (though to be clear, I'm talking abut "snap to vertex" options, rather than "snap to grid" - the latter which I normally have switched off).
Hope this helps.
|Thread: Workshop - indoors or outdoors|
Cellar every time.
I'm fortunate in that I have a very nice downstairs bedroom as my workshop (sorry, craft room) and whilst the extension which houses it was being built I had a year of working out of the garage. The thing nobody has mentioned is that going out in the cold puts a significant damper on going into the workshop. I only had background heating in the garage and so would have to steel myself before going out there (and donning appropriate warm clothing). It wasn't so much that it was too cold when you got out there (thought not cold enough to stop me from working) it was rather that it took time to adjust and acclimatise, therefore popping out for 10 minutes never happened - it was all too much of an ordeal.
Having the workshop indoors and warm means the above doesn't apply and I now pop in any time. I know it might sound a bit wimpy, but that few minutes of cold was a real turn off to getting down to work.
|Thread: Uncomplicated Steam Boiler for first wobbler please|
Your first proposed design is awful - made literally from a soup tin - don't even consider it!
Your second one looks a much safer bet.
|Thread: Alibre Design In Linux VirtualBox|
Stick with it as it will work!
I use Ubuntu with VirtualBox running Windows Vista, so I can run my TurboCad 16 Deluxe and my FInale Guitar software without having to run up my "normal" Windows. TurboCad gets loads of use with no real problems. I allow my VirtualVista to access a specific directory on my main drive (i.e. outside of the virtual environment) so that I have easy access to the data I've been working on (e.g. if I've saved a drawing as a pdf to pass to someone who doesn't have CAD).
You can download (for free) Musescore for Linux - but would need to check compatibility with your existing files. TuxGuitar is another Linux app which allows you to read ProGuitar Tab (for free).
|Thread: New member|
I don't think the Proxxon saw would work well with brass that thin and, if it were me, I'd be worried about the blade grabbing the brass and throwing it back at me, or pulling my fingers into it! I don't have one of those saws, but a friend does and I've used it a number of times for cutting wooden strip. Additionally, you'd have to find a slitting saw the correct diameter and with the appropriate sized hole for mounting it (10mm IIRC).
You might be better off looking at the Proxxon Scroll saw (or similar - effectively a motorised fret saw) and using a piercing saw blade (also called a Jewellers saw).
If you need to make quite a few of the tangents (so that hand cutting is out of the question) you might be better off looking at getting a guillotine - which would be less likely to distort the material than shears.
|Thread: Win 10 updates (again)|
I should have realised!!!!!!
Yes - I completely missed the sarcasm - sorry!
My experience is somewhat different. As Neil says, you are on your own if you go with Linux. I've asked a grand total of 3 questions (on AskUbuntu) and, in the end, managed to sort it out for myself - eventually! The magical help you allude to was simply not forthcoming!
I have a dual boot machine (Ubuntu and Win10) though very rarely use Win10, unless I have to. That said, after an Ubuntu upgrade went wrong, I was very pleased I could still use Win10 to search for answers to my problems. Although I didn't find them, I did find sufficient clues to effect a repair on my own. Having a backup of all your datafiles is definitely recommended.
Quite a few users seem to want to hang onto Windows for certain specific programs. Providing you have a legitimate copy of Windows you can load, you can install it in Oracle's VirtualBox and so run Windows on Linux. I use it for my old version of TurboCad and some music notation software which I run under Vista. I believe that you can download a legitimate version of XP to run under the virtual environment, but haven't tried to do that myself.
So, in a nutshell, I much prefer Ubuntu to Windows, but when things go wrong you are probably on your own.
|Thread: Simat 101 chuck|
I think you'll find it is made by Toyo. I've had one on my Cowells for about 35 years. Had to replace it as one of the teeth broke on one jaw a few years ago. You might find the Proxxon one is similar.
|Thread: Quick change toolpost|
Was that 0.5mm off the horizontal face only (as seen in your photo), or did you mill the corresponding short vertical face as well (to the left of the cutter in your picture)?
Just asking for future reference as I'll need to do similar.
So how did you machine the faulty toolholder? With an endmill, or do you have access to a surface grinder?
Have been following the thread with interest as my parting tool holder suffers from the same problem, so I'll be looking to do the same (obviously once I've checked measurements, etc.).
|Thread: Possible 3D Printing Needed|
Unless you are desperate to do them yourself, why not use one of the commercial suppliers who do loco nameplates and the like (including bespoke)? You could try Rhos Helyg Loco Works LINK who act as an agent for MDC plates - the page I linked to gives an idea of costs and shows some examples. These are etched, rather than engraved, so the detail will be quite shallow. I know of them but have never used them.
|Thread: Lathe bearing oiler wicks/felt|
I think you are over thinking things!
The Cowells lathes don't have any felt in the oilers and it is described in their literature as a "total loss" system.
I don't know what you expect in terms of "oil flow". The cups only hold a drop each and you don't need to fill them every 5 minutes. The oil does run out (and gets sprayed around), but as already stated, the quantities are very small. When you look into the cups you can see how well the spindle is lubricated. If using the lathe on the dining room table, you would definitely need a splash guard behind it and on the floor where you sit/ stand in front of it. I also used to wear a lab coat to prevent getting oil on my clothes.
Providing there isn't too much work involved, the felt wicks might prevent the spraying, but in a workshop environment it isn't really a problem.
|Thread: 1.1mm hole in brass|
Don't over think it and get hung up on it!
Just do it.
With small drills you have to make sure the swarf clears, so pull it back regularly. It seems that the "conventional wisdom" is for sub-millimeter (or thereabouts) drilling to be done at ridiculously fast speeds, but I think people get mixed up with drilling printed circuit boards where the material demands high speed. I have just finished making a dozen components where each had 6x 1mm holes through them (3/16" square brass) with no drama. DO NOT try to do it in one go, similarly, pecking isn't necessary - just ensure the swarf clears and doesn't jam the drill.
If you do break the drill in the hole soak the brass in citric acid overnight and you should be able to get the (now corroded) drill out with a needle, or similar.
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