Here is a list of all the postings Brian G has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dails Caliper has a mystery component in box?|
If you click on the "Albums" link at the top you can create a new album and upload your image. Then to put it in a post you click on the camera icon (top row of the box you type your message in) and select the image from your album.
Neil put full instructions here **LINK**
Edit: Is the box fitted to take the additional item? If not, could it be part of a wiggler like this?
Edited By Brian G on 19/08/2019 13:54:23
|Thread: 4 jaw chuck axial allignment|
I've done this using a soft-faced hammer before drilling a centre on a long workpiece, but wonder if it would be easier just to make a bump centring tool (basically a knurling tool fitted with a roller bearing instead of a knurl).
|Thread: What 3 Words|
I Just tried changing the language on their website, and the three word address in each example is in the selected language, including simplified Chinese. https://what3words.com/zh-hans/about-us/
Edited By Brian G on 15/08/2019 21:06:22
Brevity and reliability.
Think of each word as a number and each 3 metre square of the Earth's surface is represented by a three digit number in base 40000. To achieve the same resolution using latitude and longitude requires many more digits. It is easier, and less error prone to say "nuns, obey, ranked" than "51 degrees, 30 minutes, 7.14 seconds North, 0 degrees. 8 minutes, 25.98 seconds West".
(Evidently less error prone to type too, reading my post before pressing "Add Posting" I realised I had missed a digit.)
Edit: Don't worry Neil, I don't have a secret workshop at this location
Edited By Brian G on 15/08/2019 19:37:45
|Thread: Digital calipers made in same factory?|
I'm surprised to see that the cheap Aldi one on the right is properly CE marked as required for measuring instruments in the EU, whilst the Moore & Wright isn't.
|Thread: My digital calipersseems to give varying readings|
Has anybody ever had trouble with cheap micrometers? My sub-£10 "Whale" gives readings consistent with my 40 year old Starrett, but whilst my expensive (work paid for it) Kennedy digital caliper which is either customer branded Mitutoyo or a very good copy has been reliable and consistent for the past 15 years, in marked contrast to cheap calipers.
I put it down to it being difficult for anything to go wrong with a micrometer as long as it is rigid and the screw pitch is consistent.
|Thread: Hieroglyphics on a Wehlen & Co clock face|
Could it be glue residue from gilding which has since been lost? I assume the decoration on the case is gilt.
|Thread: Looking for a locking stay for machine canopy.|
How about these? **LINK**
|Thread: Ran out of screws?|
The spacers pass right through the mandrel with the nuts left in place Howard, and a rotating plate with three keyhole slots is used to retain the chuck. Without those caphead screws getting in the way the backplate is hard against the mandrel with a register protruding into the central hole. It is much more convenient than the more usual Chinese flange and nuts, taking well under a minute to swap chucks.
The 3-jaw uses hex head screws that have plenty of room in the recesses, and I used the same both on the self-centering chuck (with a modified Sieg SC6 backplate), and to replace these cap heads. As you said, they aren't going to be removed very often, and there is plenty of room to use a 13mm open end spanner.
We tried fitting the independent 4-jaw that came with my son's lathe today.
The fact we hadn't discovered this until now shows that my doubts about the usefulness of his self-centring 4-jaw were nearly as mistaken as the bill of materials. Luckily I had some suitable hex head screws, so only a few minutes lost.
|Thread: electric paint sprayers|
For small items a desktop compressor and airbrush might be a practical option. We paid just over £70 for one with a tank and a pair of cheap (but perfectly usable) airbrushes which has worked well for painting a 16mm scale loco.
|Thread: Safety Glasses|
My varifocal safety glasses cost £186 two years ago from safetyspecs.co.uk . This was broken down into £60 for the frames (Cat offered the largest lenses, which I think important for varifocals), £80 for varifocal lenses, £10 for the hard coating, £5 for delivery and £31 for the taxman.
I thought that (other than the tax) this was pretty good.
|Thread: Serious question, What is a Mini Lathe?|
Times change. Whilst there have been many modifications and improvements to Myford lathes in ME and MEW over the years, try searching for "Lathe" on YouTube and note how many entries there are for Mini Lathes and their big brother the 9x20.
Given that schools no longer allow pupils any physical contact with machinery, do we really expect newcomers with no experience either to know how to choose and refurbish a 40 year-old machine, calibrated in units they had never used, or to spend a month's income on something they know nothing about?
If we value the future of our hobbies we should all be thankful for the mini lathe.
|Thread: Locking Levers|
If you particularly want German handles, how about Ganter ones from Zoro starting at under a fiver with free delivery on orders over £20. I have used these in the past and been happy with them. You can probably pick them up from Cromwell, but will have to pay more in store.
|Thread: Serious question, What is a Mini Lathe?|
Going back to the original question, given that a typical 7x Mini Lathe has a 20mm spindle bore (significantly bigger than an ML7 for example), an ER32 collet chuck would seem to me to be a perfect match and much more useful than my ER25 one, or for that matter the tiny hole in the centre of the 80mm 3-jaw chuck supplied with the lathe.
|Thread: Unusual Boat Propellers?|
The Irrawaddy Flotilla tried a type of surface piercing propeller called a vane wheel, but I don't think they had a reputation for speed.
(Edit: Punctuation corrected)
Edited By Brian G on 05/08/2019 20:48:04
|Thread: Emco FB 2 Earning its keep|
There is an interesting variant on the "tilt on the gate post" here.
|Thread: ARC NCIH Part Off Blade|
Despite my concerns about the additional overhang when used with my son's size 100 tool post, I ordered a GTN2 parting blade and block from Arc yesterday and was surprised when it arrived this morning. The lathe isn't very powerful for its size (1hp and no backgear), so parting off at 3 times the speed that I used with HSS has made things much easier. I had a lot of vibration at first, but this went away once I increased the feed rate.
I'm suitably impressed but probably getting over-confident now, as I plucked up the courage to let it keep feeding under power whilst taking a photo (16mm scale wheels from 1 1/4" bar).
|Thread: change wheels|
If you know somebody with a 3D printer, you could try Thingiverse. I don't know how long they would last, but they should be fine for a one-off task.
|Thread: 3.5” NG Conway or Lilla|
One thing to consider might be weight. Lilla (a one-off loco built for the Cilgwyn quarry) weighed 10 tons 15 cwt in working order, roughly 25% more than the quarry or port class locos which were slightly over 7 tons, and nearly as much as the Dinorwic "Mills" class. I don't know the model weights, but would expect a similar difference.
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