Here is a list of all the postings Brian G has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New coffee maker - disgusting taste!|
Why not try running it to put water in a cup and then boiling it? That way you will know if there is a taste from the machine or if it is just not hot enough to make tea. I suspect the latter as coffee isn't meant to be made with boiling water.
|Thread: Aluminium black|
I'll have to persuade my wife that she wants a UV lamp Michael...I have been working on her as it would be handy for photo etching
Has anybody tried UV hardening nail varnish for this kind of application?
|Thread: LBSC 3 1/2 Britannia|
My son hopes to build a 9F and was advised that the combustion chamber should be omitted as the tubeplate is completely inaccessible once the boiler is complete, making it impossible to correct any problems except by heating the whole boiler and sloshing soft solder around it. (Is that even allowed under the current codes?) To quote Martin Evans (in 1980) "not an ideal solution perhaps, but this may be why combustion chambers are not too popular among model engineers today!".
|Thread: Boiler super heater take out port|
I assume the horizontal boiler with the dome Alec. I am a little confused, are you planning on feeding the superheater with water or using an internal pipe from the steam space down to the bottom of the boiler?
|Thread: Chester Craftsman Lathe|
In case the spare parts numbers are different, Chester's own manual is on their forum at **LINK** - just search for "Craftsman" (or "Manual" which is why I stumbled across it whilst searching for a different one).
|Thread: Rotary table + cross slide ....... why ?|
To be fair to the device, I had only considered milling. Used with a rigid pillar drill (i.e. not my one), the second type could be a useful substitute for a jig borer. A tiny version would go nicely with our recently acquired Proxxon drill - the one in the link appears to be bigger than either the drill or my budget
A cross slide on top of a rotary table would simplify milling a rectangular object with rounded corners or perhaps a flycrank as a single operation (rotate around one centre, traverse, rotate around the other centre, traverse). I had been considering making a slide to fit my rotary table for this very reason. You could also make a slot with rounded ends whose radius didn't match any of your cutters.
On the other hand I have no idea what you could do with the other version that has a rotary table on top of a cross slide that you couldn't do with a rotary table on a milling machine. It might be useful as as a vertical slide on a lathe, or at some other angle on a sine bar?
|Thread: Testing for isolation|
My father (a dockyard wireman) taught me to touch potentially live wires by sweeping my (moistened) finger down quickly at arm's length so I touched them in passing but the momentum of my arm would take my hand away. I still do that even after testing the wires with a neon screwdriver, voltage tester or multimeter as I would rather not find out that the neon etc. had failed by getting a proper jolt.
Even after testing it is still not a bad idea to short the circuit, as it could just be dead because of an intermittent fault and on domestic circuits you cannot just put a padlock on the breaker. You can also use a live circuit just to make sure that whatever you tested with really works. (I have a healthy paranoia about electricity ever since I first encountered busbars instead of cables in the pit at a substation).
EDIT: And whatever you do, don't reach down to a potentially live cable! If it gets you, you want to fall away, not toward...
Edited By Brian G on 01/02/2019 18:21:27
|Thread: Questions: Myford ML 10|
To quote from the manual for the Cowells 90 which has a leadscrew clutch and trip bar as standard: "When screwcutting, the clutch is NOT disengaged at the end of each cut. The machine MUST BE STOPPED, THE TOOL WITHDRAWN AND TRAVERSED BACK TO THE START OF THE THREAD USING THE MOTOR REVERSE" (Their capitals - I'm not getting shouty). This is for the same reason that we use a thread indicator dial when screwcutting, there are (except when cutting a thread of the same pitch of the leadscrew or a whole multiple of that pitch) multiple possible engagements.
Edit: Sorry Chris, I took a while and didn't refresh before posting so have duplicated a lot of what was in your post.
Edited By Brian G on 01/02/2019 11:07:10
|Thread: Sliders too tight|
I would tend to agree about the brass dovetail. Why go to the expense of making it a separate part unless it is adjustable?
Could I suggest being careful with the screws if they are cross-heads? A lot of older Japanese equipment has JIS and not Phillips screw heads (as if Phillips vs. Pozidriv wasn't bad enough). Hard to identify by sight, but they may have a little dot in one quadrant. Larger sizes are available from Machine Mart, whilst there are plenty of JIS instrument screwdrivers on Amazon.
|Thread: Questions: Myford ML 10|
A dog clutch on the leadscrew could still be useful as I suspect for most of us turning up to a shoulder is carried out far more frequently than screwcutting (and of course it does allow the use of a leadscrew handwheel).
|Thread: Digital speed display|
Cheap eBay tacho showed me just how much too slow I was running the lathe. Hardly gets looked at now, but well worth the fifteen quid it cost to fit one.
|Thread: Microphone Screw Threads|
Always? I thought UNC only dated from the 1940s.
|Thread: Round indexable tips.|
To be honest Neil, a rocking motion of the saddle probably didn't help much with the finish! Whilst curing that I discovered where the screws I kept finding in the drip tray and splashback were coming from... Since then a combination of having fitted a carriage lock and only making small components that didn't require more than the compound's travel have meant that I haven't had cause to use the feed on the few occasions on which I have had sufficient mobility to use the lathe.
I keep thinking about buying one of these, but my son is talking of changing lathes and I don't want to buy too small a tool.
Round tools can produce a much smoother finish, especially if the feed rate is so high that a normal tool produces a visible thread (as on a mini lathe). I used to use a round toolbit (HSS - it was 40 years ago) in a tangential holder to produce tensometer test bars as the round tool didn't produce stress raisers. Think of it just as a tool with a very large nose radius.
|Thread: Airbrush spare parts.|
I did a quick Google and Timbertech with the tree logo as sold on Amazon is a brand of this German importer http://www.jago-ag.com/brands/timbertech **LINK**
I should have added that needles and nozzles for the Chinese airbrushes are pretty generic, I just buy them from eBay. This eBay shop sells valves and other parts which may help http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/airbrushsupplyonline/Airbrush-Spares-/_i.html?_fsub=432013919&_sid=1046812169&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322 http://www.ebaystores.co.uk/airbrushsupplyonline/Airbrush-Spares-/_i.html?_fsub=432013919&_sid=1046812169&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322
Edited By Brian G on 26/01/2019 16:26:58
|Thread: Uncomplicated Steam Boiler for first wobbler please|
You could look at Tubal Cain's "Building Simple Model Steam Engines". **LINK**
|Thread: Keyway cutting|
You could perhaps save time (edit: and the strain on the lathe) by starting the keyway with a small slot drill so that you only have to remove the corners from a D shaped slot?
Edited By Brian G on 25/01/2019 12:27:12
|Thread: Tail stock for turret lathe|
Realistically the use case is restricted to needing large enough batches to justify one, yet needing them infrequently enough not to need an auto lathe, CNC or a full-time capstan lathe. On the other hand, the want case is a lot wider - despite not having used a capstan for 40 years my immediate reaction was "I want one of those"
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