Here is a list of all the postings Brian G has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The blind leading the blind|
Not the first time, and certainly not the last, but I suppose we should be glad the subject of this famous photo is wearing safety glasses.
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 fixed steady|
I've never seen one in use Gene, but I think the hole spacing is the same on both faces of the angle plate so that the compound slide can be fitted in the same way as to the cross-slide. You might get some more flexibility if you drilled and tapped a steel plate to fit in place of the toolpost so you can clamp awkward workpieces to it where you cannot use the vice.
As your space is limited, it might be an idea in the long term to look out for a BFE65 miiling head which fits to the back of the lathe bed. They come up occasionally on eBay.
When new the Hobbymat was supplied with an angle plate (shown here) that allows the compound slide to be mounted vertically on the cross slide so that the lathe can be used for milling. If you have this, or can make one, you might be able to do the precision parts of the job with the lathe and use hand tools for the rest.
There are some forum posts and photos here showing another fixed steady being made **LINK**
|Thread: Watch servicing|
The cost (and poor results in the case of my favourite Oris) of servicing was getting to me, so I decided to try a Seiko '5' automatic. Originally bought just because I didn't have a '5' and wondered what it was like, its lack of manual winding led to it becoming my daily wearer, which in turn made it my favourite.
The bracelet is rubbish, but despite its slower beat it keeps time as well as the others and the well-known five features cover all my needs. It is also far more fun proudly saying how cheaply I bought it instead of grudgingly admitting how much I paid for the others
|Thread: Cast Iron Watch Case|
Pattern welded Damascus steel would look attractive, or perhaps layers of different coloured metals (brass and nickel silver sheets soldered together?) machined to give a rainbow effect similar to the caps on some Parker 61 pens. Something totally impractical and difficult to machine, but I suspect very inviting to the steampunk fraternity, might be corten steel, left outside to weather before fitting the movement.
|Thread: Archiving old data|
Perhaps your statement is untrue with regard to CDs as there are still large numbers of CD/DVD/BD disks sold, and that, so far at least, all 120mm optical disk readers are backward compatible, and that pressed (rather than burned) optical disks have a long lifespan. It may be there is so much material on these formats that cash-strapped future historians would be more likely to preserve or re-create hardware to read even fragments of material from these than any other current data format.
Whilst conventional writeable optical disks have a very short lifespan, M-DISC compatible DVD writers are available for under £15, and Blu-Ray for around £50. The disks can be read on most DVD/Blu-Ray readers have a claimed readable life of "up to" 1000 years, so it might be reasonable to expect a century or two under less than ideal conditions. Unfortunately the disks themselves are relatively expensive compared to other media (unless you compare the total cost of ownership over the next few hundred years.
I fitted one M-DISK and one LightScribe DVD writer to my PC, so I have perhaps achieved a 50% success rate in choosing drives
|Thread: A Question on Bench Blocks|
A solid bottom would be less likely to ding a wooden workbench as well
I suppose round would work nicely if a socket was provided in the workbench, and it can be held in a vice at any angle. Perhaps the Starrett 119 has the cleverest approach with a round top and hexagonal base, as it can be held six ways in a vice and the overhanging top will rest on the vice jaws?
Not so sure about 198 USD though! I wonder if Ketan could source a (much) cheaper alternative?
|Thread: Is COMPAC' DIAL GAUGE METRIC TYPE 532 60mm Dia worth £45?|
One thing that may be worth considering is splashing out the extra on a vertical DTI where the dial is on the end of the body. It can be used on the lathe or for trueing the vice (or stock) on a mill in the same way as the more conventional horizontal type, but when centring work on the mill the dial is always visible, so no need for a mirror.
Unlike horizontal DTIs I haven't seen sub-£10 ones on eBay or Amazon but elsewhere they start at about £30 (Zoro have an "Oxford" one reduced to £28.99 right now with free postage).
As far as the needle position is concerned, I recently bought a Starrett dial gauge and as well as the usual "Made in America" QA card there was a note explaining that the pointer was deliberately set at 9 o'clock so that there was a quarter turn of pre-load if zero was set at the top. I guess enough people must have asked to make it worth inserting the notes.
|Thread: Strange digital caliper behavior|
Perhaps try zeroing the caliper with something between the jaws (a micrometer standard or a gauge block would be ideal) to help determine the source of the error. If the zero still jumps by .02 the problem is probably in the read head, if not it may be something on the scale. If the reading goes to the size of the object between the jaws -0.02 it could be switching between abs and inc modes.
|Thread: Stevensons original collet blocks & Arc Euro 6" grinder|
If the spindle was locked and the lathe bolted down, the equal and opposite torque would be applied to the floor by the stand. In my case, as the collet chuck is on a mini lathe that isn't bolted down, applying the full force to only one part would result in work being done and a lathe falling onto my foot...
Tightening the chuck on my son's X2.7 is a "fun" exercise though, as it doesn't have any spanner flats and I am relying on the grip of the MT3. If I tighten the drawbar enough to tighten the collet chuck, I have to forget any hope of self-ejecting the chuck - fortunately a tap on the end of the drawbar works wonders.
The sensible move might be to mill flats onto the collet chuck, but that will have to wait until I have a second milling chuck!
I normally use one of the "industrial" type spanners, but the arithmetic was much easier with the shorter spanner, so I cheated To be honest, I got into the habit of adjusting variables and mixing units to get simple approximations when carrying out rough-cut production plans and costings. A simplified estimate is a good way of finding out if you have misplaced a decimal (or even divided instead of multiplied) in the proper calculations.
The torque required by ER collets is easy to underestimate - I'm pretty certain I never do them tight enough. Looking at Rego-Fix's chart for ER25, it is between 24Nm for 3mm up to 104Nm for 10mm+. Assuming that I am holding the C-spanner 4" from the collet nut, that means applying a force between that needed to pick up a half-hundredweight sack of potatoes and lifting myself off of the floor. Worse than that, as I don't have a spindle lock I would have to apply the same force in the opposite direction on the chuck!
Edit: Does anybody remember Dynamic Tension? Why does it take me forever to make an engine when in just seven days I can make you a man.
Edited By Brian G on 18/12/2019 13:05:51
|Thread: Non tilting; tilting head.....tilt|
Could you lay the mill on its back to remove the head? It wouldn't need support in that position so the angle wouldn't be an issue.
|Thread: magnetic motor|
YouTube must have completely changed the economics of perpetual motion machines. Historically you either needed to scam a rich sponsor or a number of gullible investors. Now all you need to do is attract thousands of clicks and the ad revenue trickles in risk-free. Even the most skeptical viewer is contributing.
|Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same?|
Warco, Chester and Amadeal all have an adjusting nut on the end of the leadscrew and two nuts on the compound so I assume they are Real Bull machines. Morse tapers and spindle registers are the same (with the caveat in SP's post), but you would probably want to check other components before buying Sieg parts.
|Thread: Warco BH600G|
Does this page from the Wayback Machine help? Warco BH600 (No G but could that mean gap bed, which this machine has).
|Thread: magnetic motor|
In the earlier part of the video we can clearly see the operator adding energy to the system, just because I cannot see this being done in the latter part doesn't mean it isn't happening.
|Thread: Axminster/Sieg/Clarke lathe - all the same?|
It is a bit like asking if the Mini Cooper, Wolsey Hornet and Riley Elf are the same car. (I'm showing my age here). From what I have been able to find out, they all come from the same manufacturer and use the same bed, carriage etc. but have considerably different specifications, but chucks, tailstocks, change gears, toolposts and steadies all appear interchangeable.
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