Here is a list of all the postings Brian G has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Yahoo Groups: Heads up for members of e-mail groups|
An announcement yesterday by Yahoo means that all existing content on groups will be lost. Hopefully any forum members who are members of groups are already aware (or on groups.io) but I thought a heads-up might be useful.
"Attention: Starting December 14, 2019 Yahoo Groups will no longer host user created content on its sites. New content can no longer be uploaded after October 28, 2019. Sending/Receiving email functionality is not going away, you can continue to communicate via any email client with your group members. Learn more "
(I had to type the message as paste doesn't work, but I was able to paste the link into it.)
|Thread: drawings for Andrew Barclay 040?|
I think their main records are held by Glasgow University, but as they became Hunslet Barclay, the Statfold Barn Trust might also be worth a try. There may be a drawing in Tourret's "War Department Locomotives" or the combined volume "Allied Military Locomotives of the Second World War" but I haven't yet found a copy of either I can afford. I only want to build a gauge one model to go with the Woodbury Models Planet my son is waiting for (which we plan to build with the admiralty spec ballast weights, coal stove etc.), so if all else fails I will work from measurements and photos.
I'm afraid the series in ME Jason is referring to is on the narrow-gauge well tanks like Douglas. I haven't been able to track down any drawings of Overlord or the other WWII diesels. As far as models are concerned, Mercian offer a WD Barclay in 00 and 0, so I assume drawings have been available.
|Thread: Built-up edge|
Aluminium left in extrusion dies is removed with hot caustic soda, IIRC a 25% solution, but I have no idea what that does to carbide. You could perhaps use an oven cleaner that carries a warning not to use on aluminium
We used a light mist of neatcut oil to prevent aluminium build-up on tooling, and I have heard that WD40 can be used for the same purpose (and it comes in a handy spray can).
|Thread: Lidl grinder/belt sander £29.99|
I just picked up a grinder/belt sander from Lidl for just under thirty quid. Looks to be better than I expected at the price, with the whole motor housing and base being metal, and it should take standard 686 x 50 belts from Screwfix. The rests are as good (bad) as other cheap grinders, but it is possible to set the sander stop square to the belt to use as a poor man's linisher.
|Thread: Tingling from Myford Super 7|
Whoops! Double posted...
Edited By Brian G on 12/10/2019 13:47:01
This may sound a silly question, but has your water main been replaced? A lot of older houses are earthed by the rising main which isn't much good when the water board replace it with plastic!
|Thread: Changing internet providers|
You could consider getting your own .co.uk or .uk domain, then you can keep the same email address whatever ISP you use. I set my son up with hisname.co.uk (if you see what I mean) when he was 11 and my wife and I now do the same as well. It costs about £12 a year if you don't want mail hosting (I just autoforward from email@example.com to outlook.com or gmail).
|Thread: What is this called?|
You could try somebody like handlesandhinges.co.uk
|Thread: B & R Tite "Digger" Oscillating Engine|
Take a look at Elmer's engine no. 42 Bob.
Edited to fix link
Edited By Brian G on 11/10/2019 05:07:56
I gave it a quick google and is mentioned on the fifth page (Page 41) of this "World of Model Engineering" PDF.
|Thread: Resistance Soldering question|
I'm not sure that the link answers Tim's question about hard (silver alloy) or soft (tin, lead or iridium alloy) solder. I suspect that the terminology used in the UK may be unfamiliar to you?
Perhaps the questions to ask are:
what temperature solders you are using ? (or just their alloy composition or brand names)
do you use solid solder or solder paint/cream?
and what flux do you use?
I was recently (and annoyingly) reminded that a mini toaster-oven reaches a high enough temperature to melt soft solder, and accidentally reflow soldered part of a model. Fortunately I was able to reheat the model in the oven and move them back to their original positions.
Could you use an oven to bring the whole of the work to a temperature below the melting point of the solder, remove it and quickly carry out the resistance soldering? Heating in an oven should produce much less oxidation than a flame, and by heating the whole model there would be enough heat stored to assist in the soldering process.
|Thread: Metrication of models|
Imperial may be dead in manufacturing drawings, but ten years ago I was still drawing components with 7.2mm holes in 1.6 x 1.6 x 19mm angle. Good practice for 16mm/ft scale models where a component 1/8" Dia x 64mm can turn up on a drawing.
To be fair, the metric system has only been fully legal in the UK since the 1880s, and we don't like to rush into these things.
Edited By Brian G on 05/10/2019 08:51:35
The US don't use the Imperial system, they use "customary units". Some are the same as the UK, others, such as gallons and US Survey Feet aren't. Threads are even worse as they don't use Whitworth, BA (apart from darts), BSF, BSB or ME.
Fortunately my 24 year old son (and his DRO) switches quickly between measurement systems as required.
Edit: At least on the mainland they use BSP
Edited By Brian G on 04/10/2019 17:08:43
I think you missed mine as well Michael. If you express fuel consumption as fuel used/work completed lower numbers show higher efficiency, which isn't as obvious to the easily confused as it might be to engineers.
Using miles per gallon also makes the difference between cars appear greater, as whilst 50mpg is 10 more than 40 mpg 0.02 gpm is only 0.005 less than 0.025 gpm. Most people probably wouldn't realise that both of these comparisons are actually the same. Imagine trying to persuade a marketing department to claim the 2020 model "uses 4 teaspoons of petrol less for every mile" instead of "goes 10 miles further on every gallon".
|Thread: Havenít done this for a looooong time!|
Have you joined the Unimat SL group on Yahoo yet Charles? It is a friendly and active group and there is lots of handy stuff (including books, manuals and parts lists) in the files section. You can find it here. As far as spares are concerned, you can get everything at Toms Tool Store, although to be honest I haven't used them myself as I'm too tight to pay shipping from the US.
I suspect MPG and km/100l became established because every performance number for cars obeys the "bigger is better" principle which doesn't require explanation or understanding.
|Thread: Adjusting DRO scale|
If you mean these, (Link) no problem at all. I wrapped the bar in masking tape first to stop the tape ripping then used a fine hacksaw.
BTW, if you ever want to go down that route, they work fine with TouchDRO.
EDIT: Should have mentioned that unless you remove the read head there is no need to clean up the end, it is encased in the mounting bracket.
Edited By Brian G on 26/09/2019 15:31:11
That's where starting with a cheap set comes in handy. They may not be as accurate, but they still hold turned parts in collet block without marking.
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