Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New compressor required|
One interesting thing I discovered was that the piston displacement in fridge compressors varies between 2 and 20 cc.
Thank you for those further comments. I have done a bit more research into the subject and as mentioned it is not quite as simple as just bolting the bits together if you want a decent result. Research continues.
Just had a look on YouTube George and it looks too simple to be true. I shall be trying to source a compressor in the morning.
Thank you for those useful suggestions gents.
Clive......I have got one of those compact compressors, bought originally for air brushing but subsequently abused by running it continuously for too long so I take your advice regarding the limited duty cycles of these small ones. If I had more room I might consider splashing out on a bigger more "industrial" model.
George......it did flash through my mind that a fridge compressor might do but the thought did not stay there very long because I know nothing about 'fridge compressors. Have you made one? What sort of pressure and litres per minute could I expect from such a thing? Where is best place to source a fridge compressor.....fridge repair man maybe?
Phil......I will fit my knackered one with a filter to judge the effect, then if all other avenues come to nothing at least I will know how to make a noisy one less noisy.
Has anyone written up a fridge compressor system in MEW by any chance?
My small and infernally noisy compressor is on its last legs and needs replacing. I only have a small workshop and would like a "silent"(ish) runner. The capacity of the machine does not have to be great as the most demanding task that it will be required to perform is blowing up the odd tyre, testing small steam engines and testing safety valves.....so 8 Bar is plenty."Bambi" seems to be the leader in small silent types.......any other ideas would be most welcome.
|Thread: Can I buy 9.5mm mild steel rod?|
Why can't you mill it?
|Thread: looking for a buyer for old model engineering|
Marc, I have sent you a personal message. Mick
|Thread: Hydraulic setting of safety valves|
Is hydraulic testing and setting of steam safety valves accurate?
|Thread: Advantages of belt drive for a milling machine?|
Interesting thread this one. Does anyone know of plans to convert a WM14 to belt drive?
|Thread: Help need to identify gauge 1 loco parts|
Hallo Martin. It looks to be a boiler for the Gauge I "Project" 0-6-0 loco based on a Midland 4F.
|Thread: flexible tubing for steam|
Thanks very much gents. Looks as if it will be copper covered in silicon tube for now as I have it handy but neoprene and that stainless braided silicon look to be worthy alternatives as and when I get hold of some. (One of the problems in asking questions on this forum is that you end up like the kid in the sweet shop surrounded by goodies but not sure what to go for).
I wish to connect a steam generating boiler (60psi) to a small loco chassis for testing purposes. I suspect that the traditional method is to use copper tubing with a coil incorporated to give flexibility. If I used copper tubing it would need to be 5/32"/4mm OD. Is there any other type of tubing that would give more flexibilityand less heat loss than a copper tube arrangement? I am thinking maybe nylon tubing but I am a bit unsure about the stability of the connections (olive/union nut) when heated.
|Thread: End Mill Sharpening|
A few weeks ago after an episode of cackhandedness involving breaking a tap inside the workpiece I tried "drilling" it out with a small carbide endmill and was astonished at the ease with which it cut through the HSS. Could a hole be milled/drilled into your endmill in a similar way?
|Thread: Silver solder - soft solder|
I am totally prepared to be shot down in suggesting this but here goes anyway. I am assuming that the "saddle tank" is just a water holder and not a pressure vessel. What about unsoldering the bushes and cleaning up any residues as best as possible until you are back to original metal. Then use high melting point solder......Comsol, or similar ....to resolder the bushes. Then use a lower melting point solder to fix the ends. I think that this is called step soldering.
|Thread: Bob Gitsham from Adelaide Sth Australia.|
Welcome to yet another well qualified member. I liked your post on epoxy resin.
Edited By mick H on 29/08/2017 08:20:51
|Thread: Lathe Cleaning|
Nothing wrong with the fifties mate. Food on ration (fewer fat butts), National Service, no soft loo paper but plenty of paraffin and horse muck for the roses!
I used to use paraffin to sluice down the lathe and swarf trays etc as and when necessary. I have now run out of paraffin and my local garage no longer stocks it. B&Q is not too far away and sells it at a not totally unreasonable £7+ for 4 litres but have I missed an alternative? What do others use?
|Thread: Epoxy Resin|
I know that fast and slow curing varieties are available but aside from that, is there any real difference in the quality/performance of epoxy resin adhesives. Putting it bluntly, is the stuff from the pound shop significantly different from the often much more expensive branded varieties.
|Thread: Micro Burner|
Could "abraded" mean to file the side wall of the needle to create an air inlet. It could also mean filing the point of the needle as hypodermics have slanted points.
Good point regarding the conductivity of copper. I only experimented with it briefly because of the reasons previously given. I have found another source of carbon fibre (Easy Composites) who do a woven tubular range which look ideal for wicks and not quite as wayward as the normal matting. I have ordered some and look forward to trying it out on my new build.
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