Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tuna Can Blower|
Neat job. Well done.
|Thread: Making a miniature leaf spring.|
I save knackered junior hacksaw blades for leaf springs. The serrations file off easily enough.
|Thread: Long bed lathes affected by the tide|
I was wondering why my lathe work was such rubbish.....but now I know......I live near the sea.
|Thread: LPG heater- fumes|
Not keen on LPG heaters then Gents ? I think I will have to go with the majority opinion on this one. Thank you for your thoughts.
I recently bought new, an LPG heater for the workshop for the coming cold season. My workshop is only fairly small (10ft x 8ft) and when the heater is in use the door is always cracked open and an up and over window is opened. Additionally I usually switch on a small extractor fan. I also have a carbon monoxide detector. I usually only have one radiant burning.
Despite this aeration , I find that the products of combustion are quite obnoxious and I have noticed a slight headache after a while. Theoretically, the products of combustion are water and carbon dioxide. The burner burns a clear blue flame on the surface of the radiant. The fuel I am using is Calor butane. I know that LPG does usually have an odoriser .....could this be the problem?
|Thread: ARC Catalogue No.11|
I ordered mine yesterday and I am really looking forward to receiving it and the countless evenings that will be spent perusing it. Chronos also used to do an excellent catalogue which similarly, I thoroughly enjoyed perusing, getting ideas from and finding solutions. There was never a problem identifying what my wife or kids could buy me for Christmas or birthday. Flicking through a website is of no enjoyment to me and the reality is that I will not go to a website just to browse but only if I "need " something or to order something that I have seen in a catalogue.
|Thread: Float indicator in water gauge glass|
Having decided to go for the electronic water level indicator, I have knocked up a sensor which will feed into a spare boiler bush and go about 1 inch lower than the bottom of the gauge glass. When the circuitry is complete an LED will tell me when I have about 1/2" of water covering the tube plate. I had worried about producing an insulator with a copper core which I could bend into a right angle but I solved that problem by using shrink tubing. I now have an early warning from the sight glass and a shut-down warning from the LED. Thanks for the interest.
Thanks Ian. Yes, it does err on the side of safety as it is. I have been talked out of the float idea. I will proceed with an electronic LED indicator as I think that I have worked out a solution using a spare bush.
Thanks Gents. I obviously did not make the situation very clear. Robert Atkinson has guessed me correctly. The gauge glass that I am using is the red stripe type. The problem is that when the tube is "empty" there is still about 1.5" of water in the bottom of the boiler. The boiler is only 3" diameter and just over 6" in height so this is a significant amount. Poor planning is to blame. I take Robert's point about the float sticking and I am beginning to dislike the idea. I will try and move forward on the electronic water level.
With unerring hindsight, I realise that I should have extended the water gauge on a vertical boiler by about an inch or so, so that it gives me a more accurate indication of how much water is covering the lower tubeplate. I was wondering whether I could perhaps remedy the situation by inserting a "float" in the gauge glass ? Has anyone else tried this? As the boiler is to go in a r/c boat I need to assess water level at a distance.
I have fitted electronic water level indicators in locos and might be able to somehow wangle a sensor through a spare bush but this would still not be easy as it would have to be about 2 inches long.
I use both meths and butane in my models (although not both at the same time). Butane is clean and easy if you get the burner /jet set up correctly but meths is a lot more fun. As far as performance is concerned, there is very little difference between the two fuels in my experience ......again depending on boiler / burner setup.
Before you waste money on gas soldering irons, you can get "Ronson type" gas fillers cheaply on EBAY. You will also need a suitable tap for them though. I don't have the information immediately to hand but I seem to recall that it is M4.5.
|Thread: primus blowtorch|
If you have got a can of lighter fuel, squirt some gas through the jet the wrong way round. This will shift small particles causing blockage.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
Apocryphal only, but I have heard from a loco man that caution should be exercised in using WD40 type lubricants as they can adversely affect Loctite joints. FWIW.
|Thread: Another brass/bronze question|
I bought some 1/2" rounds of "bronze" from a dealer who has always proved to be knowledgeable and reliable in the past. On machining said "bronze" it behaved more akin to brass, swarf coming off as a fine dust. I took this up with him but he insists that it is bronze. I believe that it may be an MoD spec for the outer coating of tungsten cored bullets.
Has anyone else experienced bronze machining in this fashion ?
|Thread: How hot does the motor on your mill/lathe run?|
My Warco WM14 mill/drill ran very hot from the time I first bought it, about 8 years ago. I fitted a computer cooling fan in the housing which keeps things within bounds and touch wood........
|Thread: feedwater preheater|
Hallo Duncan. There does not appear to be much interest in this topic. I take your point about the oil. The preheater will have union fittings so that it can be soaked and blown through but it might be wise to also allow a bit more space in the jacket bore. I have already made a condenser and in hindsight maybe the preheater would have been better incorporated into the condenser. Positioning it on the outgoing side of the condenser would cause some problems of space.
I am considering fitting a feedwater preheater to a small marine type engine. The heater would be of the "concentric pipe" type whereby the feedwater will pass through a 3/32" copper tube which is jacketed by a larger bore tube.
What bore should I make the jacketing tube ?
What would be minimum length of jacket to be effective ?
How long & piece of string come to mind but if it is of any assistance the pump bore is 5/32" with 3/16" stroke.
|Thread: Boiler testers and material verification|
The material surplier should give you a test certificate (not just a sales receipt) which specifies the chemical composition, tensile strength, etc for that batch of material..
I have never ever received or been offered such a document.
|Thread: Locking Levers|
In my opinion that is an outrageous price. Arc Euro, (indexable lockable handles) for instance are half that price.
|Thread: Rotary Valve engine having more than two cylinders|
Yes, Oliver it is the same engine but I did make a few alterations / additions. Firstly I ran the crankshaft and crankshaft valve linkage in miniature bearings (arguments for and against). Secondly, I fitted Viton piston rings. There is a feed pump mounted on the RH side of the engine driven by an eccentric on the valve and a Roscoe lubricator fitted opposite the steam intake. I may also have tinkered with piston diameters but I can't remember the details.
Duncan is quite correct regarding the valve being a good fit. I lapped it in and have surprisingly minimal leakage, mainly at the feed pump end. I am working on an O ring based solution to this.
As regards the self starting problem, I have fitted a needle roller clutch (one way) bearing to the output end of the crankshaft which just requires a nudge from a servo to push the piston past TDC and away she goes.
The engine is shamefully filthy at the moment but if you would like a picture I will clean it up.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.