Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mitutoyo Digital Callipers|
Mitutoyo used to offer a refurbishment service for their equipment. Not exactly cheap at £50-£60 for callipers last time I enquired but better than £115 as I am told the tool is returned "as new".
|Thread: Penetrating Sealant|
Three cheers for Captain Tolley and his Creeping Crack Cure. It works a treat if you follow the instructions (even if it does sound a bit like a rear end medicament). I left the boat to dry out and applied the cure to every minute crevice I could find. A few applications and a couple of days drying out and the boat is now sound. Thanks everyone for your interest.
Thank you for your advice gents. I did try creeping crack cure and failed. I now know why and Nigel has mentioned it above. Obviously there was water still trapped within the joint! If I had read Captain Tolley's advice it may well have been successful. I will have to leave it in the sun to dry out which it eventually must do, surely. Not sure how to apply a vacuum Duncan but will think about it. Perhaps a little high pressure air might force it out but again not as easy as it sounds.
Can anyone assist me with a penetrating sealant that will be effective in the following circumstance?
A model outline "submarine" where the 4inch diameter wooden bow section slots into a 4inch diameter drainage pipe. The joint is screwed and then sealed with a rubberised gasket sealant and was a sound waterproof joint when created. I then "plated" the hull with shim brass sections fixed with epoxy resin. I thought that this would result in a belt and braces waterproof seal. After further work on the boat a flotation test has revealed a small leak in the joint and from the amount of water entering I guess would probably amount to no more than a pinhole. An attempt at stopping the leak on the inside with more rubberised gasket predictably met with failure.
In conclusion, somewhere on the lower hemisphere of the joint mating surface circumference there is a tiny leak which has to be retro-sealed as dismantling the joint is no longer an option. The question is how? Any ideas on an effective penetrating sealant?
Edited By mick H on 12/05/2021 08:35:17
|Thread: Brass/bronze filler|
Sorry to be so effusive about the "thanks", not sure how that happened.
Can anyone assist me with finding a brass or bronze epoxy type filler? I know that colour additives for resin are available .....has anyone tried them?
|Thread: Does old meths burn less hot?|
The price of meths has rocketed over the last few years and the usual reason trotted out is that it is carriage costs because of health and safety issues etc etc etc. Total baloney in my opinion but anyway, 95% denatured bio ethanol is sold in B&Q for patio heaters and currently retails at about £9+ for 2.5 litres. In my branch of B&Q they "keep it out the back" for whatever reason, so you may have to ask for it. I usually buy my meths from a little independent hardware shop in Horncastle whose proprietor has not inflated the prIce and agrees with my baloney assessment. I totally agree with Bazyle that draughting and wicking are more important in alcohol firing than the odd few percentage points of water but when you get it right, properly designed alcohol fired boilers steam beautifully and are my preference over say gas firing.
|Thread: The art of the con...|
The email seems to come from Belgium as a lot of spam does.
Possibly some homeless boy in an internet booth in Brussels just trying to get some lunch money.
|Thread: Wooden Gears|
That is a beautiful thing Michael. As for my son's venture, I think that he has settled on maple to make the gears. Now all he needs is the means to cut them as in Michael G's link.
|Thread: Plans for updating the archaic forum?|
The greatest strength of this forum is that its members give freely and generously of their expertise and experience to anyone who asks for it. I hate to think how much this expertise would cost in the commercial world even if it were possible to put a valuation on it. I would hate to see changes that would jeopardise this philanthropic relationship.
Just got back from the shops where I was charged or rather asked for £186 for 3 loaves of bread. Why? New software.
Almost every time that an "improved" website is introduced it is anything but an improvement. More flashy , trendy colours maybe, anything but intuitive and a complete relearning experience with loads of "*****£$%^&*aaghs" as I fall for the quirky bits and do it wrong yet again. No give me "old and quirky" every time over the equally or more aggravating "new and quirky".
Honestly, without exaggeration, this is the best platform that I have worked with.
|Thread: Budget CNC|
Sorry David, have I missed something?
Hallo Ron.....I haven't spoken to him for a few days but I would guess that a compromise might be an attractive idea. He loves building things so a home built CNC might be just the job for now. He has access to and is competent on his brother's metal lathe and milling machine and has his own wood lathe so he probably has the wherewithal. As for helping him build it, there is nothing that I would like better but he lives in OZ and I am in the UK. I will send him the links. Thanks for the interest.
Thanks very much gents. I have sent him all the links. I have a feeling that he might be attracted to the machines oriented towards wood as he has a wood lathe and enjoys the medium.
Is there such a thing as Budget CNC? My 16 year old grandson in Australia would like to expand into this area. He has experience with computer building and programming together with manual lathe, milling machine and 3D printing experience.
An off the shelf machine at circa £3000 is out of his reach at the moment even with Christmas on the horizon. Should he just save up his dollars or try a different approach?
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