Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: UNF reducing bush|
Can anyone assist in locating a 7/8 (male) x 3/4 " (female) UNF reducing bush. I am blowed if I can find one on Google.
|Thread: Gear software|
Thank you gents. Just what he needs.
I recently asked for information on types of wood suitable for making gears and had a very generous and helpful response. May I now take this a step further and ask whether anyone knows of software into which one can input gear data ie pcd, number of teeth and module and obtain a two dimensional printout of the gear. This is for my son who needs to make wooden gears for a project. His hope is to glue a paper image of the gear onto suitable wood and cut around it.
|Thread: Wooden Gears|
My son is building a wooden traction engine. I have already warned him of the difficulties of raising steam in a pine boiler but he is pursuing the project and as he is a glutton for punishment wishes to make a full gear chain in wood. What sort of wood would the forum advise that he uses?
|Thread: Tufnol - cylinder block?|
I originally asked this question because I have a big lump of Tufnol ( 9x6x2" which has been sitting under the bench for a few years now and apart from a small offcut to make a repair has been unused. On another note, I recently built a two cylinder marine engine with a solid brass cylinder block which has heat loss issues. Putting these two thoughts together I wondered whether a suitably lined Tufnol block might be feasible. As far as stud fixings go, I can forsee no problem with appropriate inserts. A Tufnol retailer has identified my block as Whale grade which has a working temperature up to 130C which would only give me a working pressure in steam of about 25psi so I think the idea has fallen at the first hurdle as far as steam is concerned. So what can I do with my big chunk?
|Thread: Pillar drill running in reverse|
Thanks gents. I will try and get some photos to post.
I have just spoken to my son in Canada. He bought a S/H pillar drill (make SA LR 102902-6) about a year ago and has only just started using it but it runs anticlockwise. It seems to be a straightforward pillar drill with an induction motor and no reversing facility. What could be wrong with it please ?
|Thread: Tufnol - cylinder block?|
Thinking of steam Roy. About 60psi.
I have got a substantial block of tufnol lurking under the workshop bench and just wondering whether it could be used to make cylinder blocks, suitably lined.
Thanks for the comments and advice gents.
For what it is worth, my method is similar to Andrew's and uses my small mill drill which has a quill digital readout. Having achieved a decent countersink by trial and error I then note the dro reading for subsequent countersinks. Unfortunately, this rarely proves to be consistent enough and to get a really good result have to resort to drilling a smidgen shallow and finishing with a hand held countersink. Perhaps this is because of variations in the fixings that Ian describes. If the required countersinks are in separate workpieces, however carefully I try to set it up, the above method does not work. To be fair, it is not very often that I need extreme accuracy but I have to do countersinks in six separate items that do require a very decent finish. Wish me luck.
This is probably another one of those questions to which, when I get the answer will leave me feeling stupid, but here goes anyway.
When countersinking, for countersunk screws, how do you gauge or calculate the depth of countersink. Until now I have adopted the trial and error approach but on occasion have come unstuck when I go too deep. How can I obtain consistency ?
|Thread: ANZACS - We will remember them!!|
My Dad fought with the Anzacs in the North African campaign and subsequently up through Italy to Germany. He had a very high regard for them and reckoned that they were the finest of fighting troops.
|Thread: Australian Crayfish?|
Last time in Western Australia on the way to Margaret River we stopped at a little crayfish farm where my wife partook of a significant crayfish lunch. Unfortunately I have a reaction to shellfish but she really rated them. I believe they called them "marrans" or possibly "marrons". Very reasonable price as I recall.
|Thread: Macgregor digimac transmitter receiver crystals 3|
Another MacGregor Digimac VI request. I think I have fried my receiver through a crass and idiotic action. Anyone know where I can get another?
Alternatively, maybe, I note that there are plenty of 27mHz receivers on eBay. Are receivers generally compatible with any make transmitter using the same wavelength, assuming the crystals match ?
As usual, any assistance gratefully received.
|Thread: Sealing circuit boards with silicone|
Thanks for the advice gents. I am pleased that I asked.
I have been advised that I can effectively seal and waterproof electronic circuit boards with silicone. The specific application is for a small (1.25" x 1.25" board for a boiler water level sensor for a model steam boat. My query is that tube silicone usually has a strong acetic acid type smell and I wonder whether it will corrode the connection wires etc ? Otherwise it seems to be a good idea. As an alternative there is always shrink wrap but I think the silicone could provide a neater job.
|Thread: Polly Steam Plant|
It will dissolve when you pickle and rinse it.
|Thread: Hello from Boston Lincolnshire|
Hallo Andrew. There is a club called Evergreen Miniature Railway just beyond Stickney on the A16. If you Google it you will get directions.
|Thread: Solon soldering iron|
Ridiculous nostalgia really, I suppose, but this iron has not been used and is identical to one I had when I was about twelve years old. There are probably better items on the market but nostalgia strikes again. Maybe I will have a look at a different nichrome wire element as David suggests. Thanks for the help.
My usual soldering iron failed over the weekend so I dug out a Henly Solon 25W iron which I bought as used/new some years ago. Sadly this also failed after about 10 minutes work on electronic components. When I stripped it down the heating element seemed to have suffered a partial disintegration. Working on the principle that I have never had anything but a positive response from the members of this site, I thought it worth asking whether Solon spares are available at possibly some remote outpost ?
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