Here is a list of all the postings mick H has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I use both meths and butane in my models (although not both at the same time). Butane is clean and easy if you get the burner /jet set up correctly but meths is a lot more fun. As far as performance is concerned, there is very little difference between the two fuels in my experience ......again depending on boiler / burner setup.
Before you waste money on gas soldering irons, you can get "Ronson type" gas fillers cheaply on EBAY. You will also need a suitable tap for them though. I don't have the information immediately to hand but I seem to recall that it is M4.5.
|Thread: primus blowtorch|
If you have got a can of lighter fuel, squirt some gas through the jet the wrong way round. This will shift small particles causing blockage.
|Thread: To Pin or Not To Pin|
Apocryphal only, but I have heard from a loco man that caution should be exercised in using WD40 type lubricants as they can adversely affect Loctite joints. FWIW.
|Thread: Another brass/bronze question|
I bought some 1/2" rounds of "bronze" from a dealer who has always proved to be knowledgeable and reliable in the past. On machining said "bronze" it behaved more akin to brass, swarf coming off as a fine dust. I took this up with him but he insists that it is bronze. I believe that it may be an MoD spec for the outer coating of tungsten cored bullets.
Has anyone else experienced bronze machining in this fashion ?
|Thread: How hot does the motor on your mill/lathe run?|
My Warco WM14 mill/drill ran very hot from the time I first bought it, about 8 years ago. I fitted a computer cooling fan in the housing which keeps things within bounds and touch wood........
|Thread: feedwater preheater|
Hallo Duncan. There does not appear to be much interest in this topic. I take your point about the oil. The preheater will have union fittings so that it can be soaked and blown through but it might be wise to also allow a bit more space in the jacket bore. I have already made a condenser and in hindsight maybe the preheater would have been better incorporated into the condenser. Positioning it on the outgoing side of the condenser would cause some problems of space.
I am considering fitting a feedwater preheater to a small marine type engine. The heater would be of the "concentric pipe" type whereby the feedwater will pass through a 3/32" copper tube which is jacketed by a larger bore tube.
What bore should I make the jacketing tube ?
What would be minimum length of jacket to be effective ?
How long & piece of string come to mind but if it is of any assistance the pump bore is 5/32" with 3/16" stroke.
|Thread: Boiler testers and material verification|
The material surplier should give you a test certificate (not just a sales receipt) which specifies the chemical composition, tensile strength, etc for that batch of material..
I have never ever received or been offered such a document.
|Thread: Locking Levers|
In my opinion that is an outrageous price. Arc Euro, (indexable lockable handles) for instance are half that price.
|Thread: Rotary Valve engine having more than two cylinders|
Yes, Oliver it is the same engine but I did make a few alterations / additions. Firstly I ran the crankshaft and crankshaft valve linkage in miniature bearings (arguments for and against). Secondly, I fitted Viton piston rings. There is a feed pump mounted on the RH side of the engine driven by an eccentric on the valve and a Roscoe lubricator fitted opposite the steam intake. I may also have tinkered with piston diameters but I can't remember the details.
Duncan is quite correct regarding the valve being a good fit. I lapped it in and have surprisingly minimal leakage, mainly at the feed pump end. I am working on an O ring based solution to this.
As regards the self starting problem, I have fitted a needle roller clutch (one way) bearing to the output end of the crankshaft which just requires a nudge from a servo to push the piston past TDC and away she goes.
The engine is shamefully filthy at the moment but if you would like a picture I will clean it up.
Hallo Oliver and welcome. I have made the two cylinder version and a nice little motor it is, running smoothly and economically from a 2.75 diameter vertical boiler. It suffers from not being a "self starter" if the crank ends up in the "wrong" place when stopped. I have found a way around that though. If you can figure out the valve events for a 3 cylinder version it would be of great interest.
|Thread: Upgrading to fibre optic broadband|
I have just run a test and it returns 2,33 Megabits/sec. Infuriatingly slow and at most times only just workable. To add insult to injury, I received an email from BT yesterday offering a free fibre upgrade. After I had jumped through all their hoops in the application process they said it was not available to me .....ha!ha!ha!.....what a great laugh. And for this I pay £40 per month. I am awaiting a call from a "manager" to deal with my complaint .......who will tell me, as I have been told over the last 20 years that I will get it in a "couple of months". The lies and deceit endemic in that company is beyond the pale.
|Thread: Up and over door seal|
Thanks gents. Very useful.
As far as weatherproofing is concerned my "main" (tiny) workshop is OK but I do have to keep a certain amount of stuff in the garage which has an up and over door. During periods of heavy rain the up and over garage door lets in water as there is no seal at the bottom. I would like to fit a threshold seal whilst the weather is reasonable. Any recommendations will be appreciated.
|Thread: Supaburner's for Model & Toy Steam Boilers Explained|
Fascinating stuff Blue Heeler. How do you control heat output?
|Thread: return crank movement|
I think that I might have used an appropriate Loctite grade (say 638) to fix the insert which I am pretty sure would obviate silver soldering. If the wheel is cast iron you may well have a lot of trouble silver soldering it.
Hallo David. Can I ask again about the size of the loco. What gauge is it?.....ie what is the distance between the wheel treads. I did offer some advice on fixing a return crank for a 6-coupled loco a short while back. That was a Gauge 1 (45 mm track) loco though, which is a completely different kettle of fish as regards the size of crankpins etc than say a 5inch gauge as there is only a tiny amount of mating surfaces. So the fix will be different.
As regards the repositioning of the crankpin I can only offer my commiserations. It seems to me that there are few options other than going back to square one and ensuring all the crankpins are properly aligned and the wheels accurately quartered. But, if the loco is of small gauge you might get away with.....and it makes me wince to say it...........leaving the centre coupling rod bearing snug on the crankpin and take a tiny amount of material from one or both of the coupling rod end bearing surfaces. Even if this goes horribly wrong you can rebush the coupling rod bearings to get back to where you started.
The above quick fix has worked for me in the past with no observable problems in running.There are far better qualified and more knowledgeable than I on this forum who might assist you further.
What scale is the loco David ?
|Thread: Tapping a thread|
What is the component that you wish to tap?
|Thread: C section plastic extrusion|
That's the sort of stuff John....now to find it in brown plastic to save on painting it. My local builder's merchant no good.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.