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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Nickel Plating
20/04/2011 07:43:56
Ramon, when I went to my Anodiser he was using' Tin' as the cathode. Later he went onto something else and I bought the 'Tin' off of him to utilize in my bullet casting to get a 5% tin content in the bullets.
I made a profit by selling it on to the other shooters.
I know that he used Titanium holders as the customer was critical about the marks left by other means.
I have always assumed that the Anodising process was modified by the electrolyte used.
One point to bear in mind is that an Anodiser is after conformity or his customer will start making noises, so a continuous process has to be monitered very carefully whereas we who want small items done are not too worried by that.
19/04/2011 19:11:01
I dont know how I missed the lead and always get the Anode and cathode mixed up!
The Chromic acid vapours exhausted to outside kills trees anyway.
No wonder I have Asthma breathing all that muck in.
19/04/2011 16:35:08
Graham has mentioned that some members may not know about Anodising and what it is.
Anodising is a surface treatment on Aluminium to give a hard durable surface and to give a cosmetic effect.
Anodising is non-conducting and would require penetration into the base metal to achieve contact.
The treated surface is extremely hard and does in fact add strength to a component.
AA25 will affect lathe tools and cause wear of the cutting edge.
The process is by etching the aluminium surface in a bath of hot caustic for a stipulated time to give a depth of etching which is then rated as an AA rating. I have only used three ratings, AA5, AA15 and AA25. I seem to remember these are Microns. correct me on this.
The articles are then place in a bath of sulphuric or Chromic acid and the anodes are Tin or Stainless steel. (maybe wrong) This process puts back a depth of surface and again is time sensitive. Important if items have to fit together.
After this they can be place in a dye, Black, red, Gold, Blue and other colours which penetrate the open pores of the anodised Aluminium.
The final process is to seal the surface of the coating and there are commercial solutions that do this. It is possible to coat the surface with PTFE as well!
Items that are Anodised are Water bottles in colour and shop fronts and I think the Audi car made of Alu is anodised as well.
If anyone wants to jump in please do so.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 19/04/2011 16:37:43

18/04/2011 21:29:05
Whatever method of plating Ramon tries he may have trouble obtaining the chemicals in small quantities.
As I think you are after a cosmetic effect then the simplest method will be best.
As an aside, electro plating of copper and nickel including Chrome is porous.
The nice shiny effect of chrome is obtained by polishing the Nickel base and plating onto it with the chrome. This is also polished but sometimes it fails as most of us have seen the chrome peeling off our shiny bumpers.
The plating foreman would soon reject anything not up to his standard and was a patient man and would show how it was done , once!
I did in fact cadmium plate all the bolts and nuts on my m/cycle, passivated, they were not dangereous. The lustre of cadmium is sadly missed and only aircraft components are now cadmium plated.
We also had plating stripping baths and I occasionally 'Lost' a job by forgetting it was in there and it was dissolved to a wafer!
One of the main jobs was cleaning and replating the hammer and letter bars off Creed Teleprinters and they all had to be kept in sets.
There was also a degreaser/ paint killer bath called Magnus 755 which would take all the carbon off a cylinder head and return it like new metal. Better to see all the cracks and faults. Gunged up Diesel pistons came out like new as well.
My six months in the plating shop gave me a great insight into preserving of metal and the cosmetic finishes that could be done.
Now of course H & S have all but killled the job.
Later in my Leica service I became involved in Anodizing, and luckily made good friends with the shop operator and learnt all there was to learn of tolerances allowed for the thickness of anodizing. All my maching was in HE30 and was anodized. AA15 or AA25 depending on the location it would be used in.
Thread: Cutting fluids
18/04/2011 14:59:09
I have never had an odour problem with cutting fluid at the 20 to 1 mix. Add the oil to the water and it does not globulise and this may be the problem.
It does get adulterated with lube oil from the machines and this can be skimmed off if it gets too much.
Thread: Nickel Plating
18/04/2011 08:07:58
Ramon, Nickel plating requires a base metal to plate onto so you will need to copper plate first.
I spent six months as part of my army tech. training in a plating shop at Donnington workshops and learnt a lot of basic skills there. Cleanliness both physical and chemical is paramount.
Another item is that the base layer , copper is polished to give a polished nickel layer.
Straight nickel will give a slightly rough surface.
Perhaps you should consider using stainless steel for the components or another alternative is Zinc plated and passivated.
All the processes involve an acid dip which will etch the surfaces.
Stainless steel is the way to go I think.
I sem to remember that most of the spraybars were made of brass in my engines of yesteryear, in fact I had to make a couple of them as some of my crashes were a bit spectacular and bits got broken.
I have also carried out black chrome work which still requires copper plating before being done, the copper is brushed off leaving a beautiful shining black finish which is all but impenetratable. This method was used on the components of the big guns recuperators to stop corrosion.
Thread: VFD Drives
17/04/2011 16:01:03
I have had a VFD unit fitted to my bench drill for some 20 years odd. I did at first have an interferance which I chased back through the screened cable to the clamp inside the VFD unit which had come loose.
Since then no problem.
I hooked up with a screened five core cable which is easy to get and it is earthed at the machine end.
Thread: Darjeeling Himilayan locomotive
16/04/2011 22:13:04
Hey, I printed it off and it took 22 sheets for the instructions and about 22 sheets of card for the model.
Just made it with the magenta ink cartridge warning it was running out!
I am into card models and have made lots over the years.
I cannot get my grandsons interested, they would rather fiddle with their electronic games, etc.
Be aware that there are two different scale models on offer!
Thread: Machinable Ceramics
16/04/2011 22:07:10
Have you ever considered using Mica as an insulator, I remember in my youth seeing spak plugs with mica insulators on old farm engines.
Another thing to try might be fire clay, I expect its still available and it would conform with any 'locking in' shape you use. They use it on gas hobs to hold the Piezo igniters in place.
Corien, I have a sheet about 12" x 12" which I am willing to donate to the worthy cause of spark plug advancement.
I can cut it into small pieces if needed. All I would need is an address.
Thread: oil filtering
15/04/2011 19:54:55
As soluble oil is an emulsion it will not filter very well in an inline filter. Heed what mgj says and do the magnet trick, obviously it will not pick up non ferrous.
The alternative is use some muslin cloth and bag up the end of the inlet.
I have always had a metal basket under the inlet in the tank which catches 75% of the junk that gets washed down.
Thats why they are called settling tanks so that the fluid can dump the heavy bits and be re-cycled through the pump.
Thread: Horizontal Milling With Inclinable Head Machine
14/04/2011 14:18:57
The whole principle of a vertical mill is that you use iether endmills or shellend mills using a suitable arbor.
Side cutting in the right direction in the vertical mode is normal.
Setting the head to say 90 deg. for certain operations is also normal. Drilling holes in the 90deg. mode is one operation I do.
Very seldom have I had to use the head set to an odd angle. Chamfers are done in the vertical setting using a 45deg. tool and of course slideways are done with the right cutter in the vertical mode.
Slots are cut with a slot cutter and 'Tee' ways are then opened out in the vertical mode.
I have used shellend mills on big jobs, mainly alu. or brass.
The same applies to large dia. ie. 2 to 3 inch cutters. These normally used to generate flat surfaces or just to remove waste metal.
No biggy here at all. Experience will show how and what to do and how to apply it.
The size of the machine and the power available governs what tool and how you use it.
Rigidity is another factor and locking up clamps and slides. You will occasionally get a kick back from the job and tool you are using which may upset the clamped settings.
Tool speed is another factor and blunt tools that bounce and chatter.
Thread: ml10 backgear
13/04/2011 17:18:38
Ian, yes, the shaft is fine, it was the fact that the two screws holding the nut were loose and had been tightened up but it was biased and I could see wear on the side of the nut.. Its only Mazak or some such stuff anyway and would wear quickly.
This is much like the half nuts on the lead shaft and having to adjust that little socket head grub screw to get the contact correct.
Norman, I can see what you have done with the lead screw dial, looks OK.
My idea was to modify the dial with a slipping cursor but would need to destroy one to get one.
Could have used one today as I was fitting a new backplate to a chuck, all done now and all I have to do is center the chuck as its one of the type that can be adjusted with three cone screws around the outside.
At the moment its running .004 mm but I can get it better than that.
The cross slide collar I would like to do as it is sometimes awkward with a fixed collar.
I will look on Ebay and see if anything is suitable.
I have just completed a worden Tool and Cutter grinder using the ML10. It is possible but one is right at the extremeties of the machine on a few of the operations.
The tool holder base that is turned with a 15 deg. chamfer was done by centring on the faceplate and swinging by hand in a small arc, adding a cut every swing. Took me about three hours. My hands were sore even using a leather glove.
The Worden works fine and I have sharpened cutters up to 16mm shank dia.
It is surprising how much difference sharp cutters make when working.
13/04/2011 10:15:48
Glad you worked it out Brian.
As an ML10 owner I have often wished for slipping cursors on the Lead screw and cross slide.
Has anyone ever done this on and ML10 or know of a source of info of doing it?
I have just modified the cross slide with the two thrust brgs and it has improved it no end.
I have also replaced the cross slde nut that had been mis-aligned for some reason and it was worn.
Thread: Wooden workshop floor
13/04/2011 09:37:44
With regard to the walls and insulation, I have been called out to infestations by wasps and bees in the cavities!
Fill the spaces with insulation and make sure the outer walls are free from small entry points.
Getting the insects out is a dismantling job as I do not kill bees.
Further to the floor, my garage is concrete and it makes my feet cold even though heated, I have found that a cardboard box folded down is good to stand on as an insulator when I am working on the lathe.
Thread: Tool box shadow foam
11/04/2011 08:48:58
I have checked Oakleigh Cases current website and they seem to be a viable company and I can recommend them to you Anthony.
They do a very good professional job on the whole thing from start to finish.
They are based in Potters bar.
Thread: ml10 backgear
11/04/2011 08:01:18
Look at the large gear wheel on the main shaft, rotate shaft and you will see a hex. drive screw head on the chuck side of gear.
Get an allen key and shorten it so it will fit the hex head and undo it and pull upwards, and lock it up again.
Gear will now freewheel and you can engage the back gear.
Clive. pS lubricate the back gear shaft.
Thread: Tool box shadow foam
10/04/2011 14:02:55
I have used these people before and the sheets are black and come in quarter and half and inch thick. abou 8' by 4'.
I machined used a TC router, air driven and constant vaccuum suction.
Oakliegh Cases. 0707 655011 Fax 0707 646447.
I hope they are still trading and a contact name ten years ago was Richard Puxley.
Thread: Precision Optics Engineering history
06/04/2011 17:30:52
hi Steve, a quick follow up to your question.
Our machines were all Schaublin we had a N102 with threaded collets for chasing threads. This is where the whole chuck head follows the threaded collar and feeds into the chaser.
Then we had two brand new N102N which we bought with all the kit possible/ this was a great machine with foot clutch and quite a high Rpm.
We also had a No 13 Milling machine , again with all the bits. Another wonderfu robust machine. I remember it cost £17000.
When the firm split up they passed the Mill and the new Lathe to the subsidary as reparation for being made redundant. Long story not worth repeating as he is now dead.
I was give a budget and I then bought an EMCO lathe with an attached milling head and a Myford ML10.
These did great work and when I left I made a bid for the Myford and got it for £500.
Then at a later date after I left they decided no more machining or special work and sold off the remaining machines for pennies. The EMCO went for £700 and another Schaublin worth at least £4500 went for a few hundred pounds to a friend of the MD.
An engraving machine went for £200. and the odd bits and pieces were taken by some of the workers.
I did get a drill grinding machine which is very good and works well but does not go smaller than 3mm.
I also got an Aciera bench drill, this is quite a precision item but 3phase. I had to buy a converter but am thinking of going back to single phase with it.
If I had the money I would buy all Schaublin kit as it never loses value.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 06/04/2011 17:31:56

06/04/2011 09:45:26
Your right Steve, a lot of assembly of cameras was done in Singapore as it was a new Enterprise center and had lots of cheap avialable labour that was capable and intelligent.
Leica also assembled levels and Tribrachs out there as it was cheaper to make the parts, send them out there for assembly and then fly them back to Europe.
Going back to the Optics side, Leica aquired a holding in the Peking Optical company in China and they supply very good optical components.
Another thing is that if Leica find a Company with a process or a manufactured item they will buy that company outright and put in their own management.
Peter Kern sold out to Leica lock stock and barrel and walked away with the money. They were then Leica's main rival. Kern optics are excellent, their Kern Switar lenses are legend for sharpness. Also their cameras like the Alpa. Alas, no longer made and now become collectors items.
All the big name firms have gone to the wall now, Bolex cine cameras and projectors,
and all the subsidary firms that supplied services to them have gone also.
You should also know that a lot of named cameras, ie Kodac are clone cameras and just have a slight visual difference to carry the name.
The software that drives it just has slightly different 'Take offs' to make it different to the standard model.
Thread: Building lathe/mill in cast of concrete?
06/04/2011 09:32:56
A composite material might be very good for vibration damping in a job like this!
Some concrete mixes have fibres mixed in to make them lighter and stronger.
They would have to be cast in a jig and any bedways would need to be attached during this process.
I would think they may be very large machines and not bench type machines where cast iron and steel would be far better.
An interesting project if you want to machine something like an aircraft spar about 60' plus.
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