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Member postings for Clive Hartland

Here is a list of all the postings Clive Hartland has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: D bit grinder work head calculations
11/05/2011 10:32:27
All rotary cutters revolve around the central axis and if you put a cutting edge on that tool, ie, 'D' bit, pointed engraving cutter or a drill then that is what it becomes and is named as such. Otherwise no one would know what to ask for!
If someone wants to put a 'Spiral' clearance on a cutter then the cutting edge has less support and is weaker.
Given that from the calculations, a cutting edge relief is formed, ie, 3 deg. then it will cut.
No benefit will come from trying to change the physical shape.
From what I said before, all cutters are ground to set angles and perform well, its only the ham fisted who grind/sharpen a cutter that does not cut well and do not understand functions of the cutter they are using and the material they are using.
There are enough posts on here asking how to grind lathe tools and endmills that are blunt, wrongly ground or unsuitable in some way.
Nothing like a good diagram to show the interaction of the cutting angles and the clearances for different materials being cut.
Thread: Adjustable Dials for Feedscrews
11/05/2011 07:45:18
Any chance of a copy of the drawing of the micrometer scale for me to make for my ML10?
Thread: Consort sawbench and planer
10/05/2011 07:37:11
this is a very old machine and has need to be re-furbished. I rebuilt it when I first aquired it and have been very pleased with it.
I recently did 56 Mortice and Tenon joints and this is when the wear on the bearing became apparent. The cutter is attached at the bronze bearing end of the shaft and it started 'Chattering' and the slots were poorly cut !
I think now is the time to improve its mechanical performance and bring it up to date with new bearings.
I use the machine all the time and have another batch of bee swarm boxes to make shortly.
Regards to the bronze bearing, it would need a new shaft as well as a new bronze bearing which is far more than just turning one end down to 20mm and making an end cap to take up end float.
The bronze bearing is after all an archaic design in view of the rpm it runs at. 3500 !
09/05/2011 16:12:55
Hi again,
I have since found the diameter of bearing I want and I will order two ASAP>
The number is R10 2Rs and is sold by ArcEurotrade.
This changes things now and I can do the bearing fit a different way.
I will now turn down the shaft to five eigths and fit the bearings against a step on the shaft.
Then I will make a spacer and an 'End float' adjustor which I will make with a thread and screw it into the bearings to take out endfloat. Then this will be fitted into a threaded end cap.
Securing the cap with two big head screws as before.
Much simpler.
09/05/2011 14:41:59
Hello Lawrie,
Just got in and there is an email reply from Pyatt Woodworking saying they know of no modification for the ball bearing conversion from the plain bearing but would be interested if I came up with a mod.
Yes, I bet they would too!
OK, the configuration at the moment is a shaft with a ball bearing (Imperial size) at the no load end and a plain tapered bronze bearing at the load end.
This bronze bearing is now worn and from tightening against the taper to take out end float, it is starting to protude through the bearing slightly and is slightly oval on its inside dia.
What I want to do is to try and use the original diameter of the hole in the base casting and fit two side by side ball bearings, there is a but! It is 1.375 dia. and I cannot find any imperial bearings of this diameter.
If I could it would be easy and simple to do.
An alternative is to make a sleeve to fit inside the 1.375 hole that would carry two 20x32x7 metric bearings but I would need to make the sleeve as part of the end float control.
I have drawn it all out and I have a solution that will work OK.
I would need to turn the shaft down to 20mm to take the bearings and then machine the sleeve to fit the hole in the base casting, this would have a flange on the outside and I would use a couple of large headed screws to retain it in place.
The two bearings would need a keeper ring inside the sleeve, thats easy.
The shaft can only be assembled from the load bearing end so any other method of fitting the bearings is out.
Hope tha makes sense to you Lawrie.
Another alternative is to machine the base casting to a larger diameter hole with a flange at the inside edge. All I would have to do is retain the bearings in place. I could then go up to 20x42x10 for the shielded bearings.
Both methods will work and I have access to a mill that will accept the casting.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 09/05/2011 14:51:48

Thread: Explanation of job 'Engineers Driller'
08/05/2011 10:11:24
My great,great Grandfather was a 'Brickburner'. I think a lot of trades listed in the Census are ancillary trades to main trades.
A lot of the processes used in the old days were very long winded and needed lots of labour in many different places.
Thread: D bit grinder work head calculations
07/05/2011 19:44:03
Thats interesting, the cutting edge would then be ground with the lip forward of the centerline ensuring a clearance.
When mounted in the cutter holder to grind the cutter and the quadrant fitted to the holder and located against the stop peg, the lip is presented to the grinding wheel not at right angles to the flat on the cutter, the flat iis sloped back from the face of the wheel and this gives more relief to the cutting lip.
Thread: Explanation of job 'Engineers Driller'
07/05/2011 17:52:32
Perhaps in those days there was a demarcation between trades?
I can see a fitter wanting a hole drilled and then a 'Driller' comes forward to carry out the task as such.
Conjecture i know but if there is a better answer I would like to see it.
Thread: D bit grinder work head calculations
07/05/2011 15:16:34
Lawrie, I found that I could get much more cutter relief by just increasing the depth of the engagement with the wheel. The cutting edge clearance was then more pronounced. Basuically I would grind the cutter to the materiel and sometimes it was two or three tries to get a good cutting edge on the specific materiel.
One of the reasons was that when cutting alu. sheet and making templates the alu. would build up on the cutter edge.
Remember that the rpm of the cutter when engraving is in the +20000 range.
Also on some soft materiels I would use a quarter shank cutter because of the extra clearance. No chance of the trailing edge getting fouled up with the chips coming off and if it was plastic it would be very soft and sometimes melt.
The engraving cutter only had a cutting edge at the cone point and if I was cutting out a shape and using a parallell cutter I would then sharpen the whole length of the cutter.
The machine was an Alexander No2 and the Cutter Grinder was a Deckel.
The Talor Hobson cutter grinder was much the same and gave similar results.
07/05/2011 10:06:33
During my work as an engraver which was part of my job description, the engraving cutters were placed in a holder that was then placed on the angled tool holder that went against the wheel.
The holder had a set quadrant that allowed the cutter to be rotated against the wheel.
This gave the cutting edge and the relief required by engaging the wheel and moving it forward into the wheel.
By rotating the holder the rest of the metal behind the relief angle was ground away.
Then the angled tool holder was rotated to a greater than 90 deg position and the tip was moved forward into the wheel to give the tip clearance.
This then gave you a cutter that cut cleanly and depending on the width of the tip grind a thin or wide engraving.
This was all preset on the grinding jig and it also had a holder for two or four lip endmills up to about 6mm. The settings gave the correct clearance once it was in the tool holder.
There was a set of single quadrant and two quadrant and four quadrant discs that were clamped to the end of the tool holder to facilitate the type of cutter being ground.
Once the cutter clearance has been ground, further rotation just took off the un-needed metal behind the lip.
No offset was required for this at all.
Thread: Consort sawbench and planer
04/05/2011 20:51:18
I have a Consort Coronet sawbench and planer with some accessories. I have no idea how old it is but I have had it for 24 years and it has done sterling work as I make my own bee keeping hardware, Nucleus boxes and hives and roofs and stands and bases plus the odd repairs that are needed.
This last few days I have been making some garden seats and have to do lots of Mortice and Tenons for the slats of the seats.
This saw bench has a ball bearing at one end of the spindle and the other is a taper bearing made from bronze material.
The adjustment of the shaft is by using two lock rings that draw the Taper bearing in towards the taper on the shaft. This is lubricated via a cap and hole at the top of the bearing.
Now this is a long shot , has anyone ever heard of a conversion of the bearings to all ball bearing, eliminating the taper bearing as now I have to adjust quite often and I think it is getting a bit worn.
Some time ago I had a contact with a place:- Pyatt Woodworking in Wolverhampton who were able to supply various bits and pieces.
Thread: My drill bits are not cutting
03/05/2011 21:41:42
Colin, there are some cheap old drills on the market and its no good buying those little boxes of black drills you find on market stalls.
I have seen some reasonably priced TIN coated drills in metric sizes in Wilkinsons, in fact I bought some and they are OK.
When you buy drills make sure they are High Speed steel drills, there are other types for cutting hardened steel and other types for drilling brass and such like.
Best get a book or a catalogue and study it.
Regarding sharpening, its practice, practice and do it again until its second nature. You will soon learn whats good and be able to drill clean holes.
The smaller the drill the faster it goes, bigger drills slower.
Thread: Dam Busters Channel Four tonight
03/05/2011 13:32:12
The size of the 'bouncing bomb' is not really a problem, the hydrostatic effect of the bomb going off under water against the dam wall and using the water as a backstop enables the shock wave to disrupt the wall.
I doubt the bomb was meant itself to destroy the wall but to loosen or crack it so that the weight of water behind it would then break it down, which it did!
Explosives and water are a potent combination and can be used to do metal forming against a die and make intricate shapes difficult to do with a power press.
When I was stationd in Germany I visited a power station below the wall at Mohne dam, there I spoke to an old operator who was there when it broke and he said that the disruption was only for three or four days as power was diveretd from other areas to carry on production in Wetter where Demag had a big factory.
There is very little evidence of the dam being damaged and it was all rebuilt.
Thread: Steam Boat Ban
01/05/2011 10:08:28
It would seem now that all active pastimes are now being banned, shooting, fox hunting and model airplanes and now a ban on steam engine boats in a lake that is designed for the pastime. Even childrens playgrounds are now so soft the kids dont want to use them or go there.
Take to mind the bin police and the level of fines allowed. Its only rubbish after all and we pay for it anyway.
The threat of litigation seems to sharpen the minds of these cretins who are just one jump up from shop stewards.
They justify their positions by harrasing the population, and eventually gain a high position of authority that only gives them a good living when they retire or even better ousted from their position and they then claim comp.
Its only us the people who have to put up with all the clap trap they come out with.
Bear in mind on Thurs. next there is a local election and a referendum, if you dont like what is going on then vote!
If they are voted out into the wilderness thats them finished, why not tell them so as well.
They are servants of the people after all and unfortunately we have to fork out the money for it!
A club is the best way of going about getting your rights and facilities, they are bound by legislation to provide facilties but this seems to have fallen by the wayside in recent times.
Perhaps its time for us to re-assert ourselves and make them take notice of us the people.
Thread: Stainless Steel (update)
01/05/2011 09:56:32
If you want a very good polished finish then use a fine emery and rub bees wax into the emery, use in the normal way and it gives an excellent finish almost grain free.
Thread: brass wire mesh in 1mm weave
28/04/2011 19:17:02
Thank you for all pointers to wire mesh, I have looked at them all.
27/04/2011 21:51:30
Clive, Nice to meet you here!
The baskets are about 5" dia and about 4" deep to fit the ultrasonic tank. The suspension basket will take two that size and there are four of us who use it.So roughly 5" x 16" plus 4 bases 5" x 4 at the width you quote, 24"llength would do it, the sieve size is not really important as it will be less than a 1mm mesh.
As the ultrasonic runs at about 60C. I am dubious about synthetic materiel? and its longivity under the action of the ultrasonic vibrations.
would appreciate any help on this to keep cost down.
I can do a trade with you if you have any ' wants'. I have a couple of Dti's not being used.
You can contact me on the, 'My message' system.
Regards Clive
Thread: Google Chrome Warning
27/04/2011 09:33:16
It sounds like a 'False positive' Just make sure your anti virus is upto date, do some updates and also download 'Anti Malwarebytes' Its very good at finding nasties that the other anti virus software does not.
I can recommend Webroot Anti Virus, you pay for it and it acts as a sentinel and warns of any intrusion or attempts.
Thread: Magnetised tools
27/04/2011 09:29:37
I am not too sure that blunt tools are the cause of this residual magnetism. It is a once or twice a year phenomina and it just puzzled me where it comes from, perhaps I live on a leyline?
A quick knock on something solid like the vice gets rid of it, its the source of it that i want to find, as I posted before i do not use magnetic mounts or tooling.
I would be more inclined to think it is coming in on the bar metal I turn, perhaps they use a magnetic crane device to move the metal and it is retaining the magnetism from the tool supplier?
Thread: Indexable toolholder grinding/milling/shaping
27/04/2011 09:24:44
I have had to mill off a couple of mm on some of my inherited tool shanks and I even milled off a couple of mm off the base of the tool holder as well!
I have had no problems at all.
This came about because I fitted an EMCO QC tool post to my Myford.
Carbide tooling will remove hard metal!
Clive PS Never kick a gift horse in the mouth, adapt accordingley.

Edited By Clive Hartland on 27/04/2011 09:25:15

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