Here is a list of all the postings Martin 100 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: How much do Colchester spares cost ?|
Funny you mention silver plated nuts and quote that price. Bought some silver plated nuts just the other day. M10 x 1.25 stainless K nut silver plated, essential for mounting a turbocharger to exhaust manifold and then actually being able to remove it years later without trashing the exhaust manifold or the turbo (access even on the bench is VERY tight) - 100 off price £900+, rising to nearly £13 for low quantities.
I remember doing a 'refresh' on my early 60's Boxford possibly in the early 90's The prices were eye watering then but at least they were still available new off the shelf which isn't the case for a lot of things now.
Just how much did the various lathes mentioned above (and others) cost when new?
When anyone complains about the price of something today then this can be useful
|Thread: Hut Consumer Unit & MCB Question|
Legally it's 13A total regardless of whether the socket is one way or two way. Three way sockets are also available but are sub fused at 13A in the faceplate.
The BS approval test on a double is 20A (with a 70/30 split) with a limit of 1 deg C rise
BS1363 sockets from reputable manufacturers will actually accommodate 3 x 2.5mm^2 or 3 x 4mm^2 or 2 x 6mm^2 conductors.
Petrolhead that cable isn't Steel Wire Armoured, this is SWA
We might possibly be into can of worms territory here...
For anyone seeking guidance here is a good place to start (although getting a bit dated now)
The MCB's , like fuses should always be rated to protect the cable. An appliance you plug into a '13A" socket will often as not have a flexible cable rated at lower than that, hence lower fusing in plugs such as 3A. Meanwhile in the rest of the world, with unfused plugs and radial circuits such devices are protected only by a 16A MCB and an RCD.
If you have a ring main run in 2.5mm^2 Twin and earth or singles in conduit then 32A might be appropriate. For a radial circuit (i.e. one cable from the consumer unit to each socket in turn without another cable returning to the consumer unit) again using '13A' sockets or BS4343 'industrial' sockets 16A would often be more appropriate. A 16A MCB might indeed operate before a 32A MCB and a B rated breaker before a C rated breaker before a D rated breaker, but they are not strictly interchangeable and the type and level of fault could mean they all operate together, regardless of rating and trip curve within a few hundred milliseconds and thus provide no effective discrimination
Downrating an MCB from 32A to 16A does not enhance 'personal' protection, the Residual Current Device and the earthing does that. Segregating the lighting and power to equipment is a good thing but a fault on the equipment could still plunge you into darkness, with resultant injury from trip hazards. Hence why RCBO's (a combined MCB and RCD) on each circuit are preferable, further enhanced with the lighting split across two circuits. Of course if you have windows on your workshop and only work in daylight this is not really an issue
Yes you could let the feed stop before reversal but equipment shouldn't routinely trip protective devices regardless of what the user does so this discussion is IMHO far from being 'pointless' and a wrongly sized breaker can be a fire hazard, an incorrectly earthed installation in an outbuilding can be a shock hazard. Because it hasn't killed you in 30 years does not mean it won't kill you tomorrow
The rating and type of the MCB's will, if the system has been properly designed , be correct to protect the cable (at the head end) and separately the installation at the hut end, with discrimination such that a 'local' fault stays just that.. To have MCB's identically sized is not ideal and may be totally incorrect, indicating that the installation was possibly just guesswork.
If you are only using one bit of machinery at a time the 32A MCB in the hut could be sensibly replaced by one rated at 16A but that won't necessarily stop the tripping problem.
A physical check of all connections (phase neutral and earth) from end to end plus checking earth integrity on the equipment is a good idea.
MCB's can be supplied or even go trip happy so a direct 1:1 replacement of all the existing protective devices might possibly 'fix' the problem.
Simply swapping the an MCB from a type B to a type C or even a type D without being fully aware of the implications of such a change is not a sensible idea. It might not provide enough discrimination which is what you are after and it could degrade the effective level of protection on the cable from the head end to the hut end.
But as ever, without having sight of the installation, the earthing arrangements and measurements of the fault level most of this advice is just 'guessing'
|Thread: Boxford Model A backlash|
You are not looking in the right area. Look instead at the handwheel end of the cross slide screw. Unscrew the chromed slotted 'nut' (anticlockwise with something that doesn't damage the slot) Now undo the hex socket grubscrew that holds the handwheel to the cross slide screw. Now fit the handwheel to remove all slack, tighten the grub screw Refit the slotted nut.
As for spares, you are out of luck for that area of the lathe because that type of cross slide / dial was discontinued in the early 1960's
|Thread: Another workshop insulation question|
No, the exact opposite
Lower is better
Decide if you want to be able nip out for an hour or two 'whenever' and at any time of year, do some work in normal clothes rather than multiple layers of thermals and then come back inside when you choose, not when you freeze / melt.
Decide how much time/money/effort you want to spend on 'heating' No time/money/effort is often the best.
Do you prefer to be sweating all through a hot summer with a fan trying to cool the place down?
Do you prefer to be a gross polluter for the rest of the year with a woodburner affecting the health of everyone in the vicinity?
Some fit resistive heaters or incandescent lamps to every bit of machinery to stop them rusting when getting the insulation and ventilation right fixes the problem 'forever' with no ongoing energy usage. But some people always go for really cheap nasty 'fixes' rather than properly addressing the fundamental issues.
Proper insulation is expensive but needs buying and fitting just once. Do it right and occupancy heat, maybe topped up with that from a freezer can easily be enough to keep the place comfortable all year round.
If you can only afford 25mm of polystyrene on the walls then don't bother, wait until you can afford at least 75mm and preferably 100mm or more of PIR
While PIR is supposed to be 'safe' and class O, bare PIR on the roof is not a good idea if you have any intention of having a naked flame in the workshop. Trying to justify leaving it bare to enhance lighting is daft. Put some more lights in instead, preferably ones that direct the light downwards, they are really cheap.
The floor will also loose lots of heat, cold feet can be fixed with insulation in the structure too
|Thread: Record No 1 vice pin sizes|
Size of the pin punch? a bit smaller than the small side of the taper pin, it also means you have something around the size of the pin to compare with so you don't accidentally hit the wrong end of the pin and possibly make an easy job something else.
Hitting something hard like a pin punch with something hard like a hammer will indeed work, but copper dulls the shock back up your arm, doesn't damage the striking end of the pin punch, means you don't really need eye protection and leaves the hammers with nice clean shiny faces for hitting nails accurately.
It's around 10 quid for a Thor copper & hide mallet, it gets used for tapping down work in the machine vice on the mill and tightening the vice handle, the latter always with the copper face The current one has had maybe a decade of use so that's something around 1/4 of a pence per day.
The size of the pins? Measure the holes afterwards. Having dismantled one of mine recently to fit copper jaws (the screws, 1/4 BSW around 3/4 inch long were very stuck and needed spotting with an end mill, then left hand drilling on the mill with one requiring heat to remove)
The pin holding the nut into the main body at the rear of the vice is somewhere around 3/16", the one on the screw a bit smaller, possibly 5/32", but they could be metric, I never measured and simply refitted the ones I removed.
Besides the slight variation in taper (1:48 &1:50) metric pins are measured at one end, imperial ones at the other and at the moment I can't recall which is which.
Removal? parallel pin punch, hit with a copper & hide mallet, not much force needed at all,
The one on the screw will catch you out if you drive it through too much and jam up the screw and prevent if being turned, so partial drive through, rotate the screw 180 degrees and pull out the pin with a pair of pliers / mole grips etc is the better option.
|Thread: Illegal CD copy|
It's not very complete either as the last issue was number 4593 and this collection apparently only has somewhere around 1600 mags.
There was, many, many years ago, long before this forum ever existed a collection of ME's from a public library in the US that were scanned and OCR'd. That collection was distributed person to person, for free or just the cost of the media if I recall correctly, on something like 20 CD's, so at 650MB it totalled around 13GB or around 3 DVD' s. It covered up to the 1980's with lots missing, no idea how many magazines were scanned.
The UK situation might be different but pre-1923 issues would be out of copyright in the US, with multiple authors per issue it's not 100% clear what is the status of the rest of it.
The legalities are indeed questionable, but the usefulness of having something essentially archived forever and readable without repeatedly thumbing through increasingly fragile bits of paper taking up lots of shelf space and with rusty staples are IMHO immense.
|Thread: Dangerous Ultrasonic Cleaner Electrical Failure|
Yes something quite visible that could indeed prove fatal. One would that with the 3 pin inlet and the metal case it is properly earthed.
I've seen quite a few glass fuses vaporised, the tails and end caps of the solder in type often being the only evidence left.
I would hope most if not all would recognise that method of construction as a major issue but as shown many moons ago on here a simple mains USB power supply feeding a seemingly 'harmless' LED lamp 'at 5v' has the inherent potential to kill because some USB power supplies, usually offered into the market by backdoor suppliers are, by design, built with near zero separation and are thus totally incapable of meeting any safety standard recognised in the UK/ Europe/Australia/USA.
|Thread: Increasing cost of entry into model engineering|
Without the likes of ARC or Axminster etc I would suspect few here would ever have a 'new' mill or lathe. Same with machine vices, rotary tables, dividing heads, tool grinders, quick change toolposts, angle plates or a myriad of other things. In the past they'd spend years (or even decades) machining a set of raw castings often following a series lasting dozens of issues in the magazines and then at the end maybe forget why they made them in the first place. Old machinery is also quite simply way too big for many home workshops, something compact is usually all many actually need. Something heavier and bigger with significantly more stiffness would always be better though.
Despite the immediate additional cost I'd sooner buy much (but not all) of what I need locally than trust a supplier thousands of miles away with a dubious or non existent return policy. But when you can buy the identical item to that sold by a UK supplier for 60% of the price, delivered within two or three weeks you wonder how sustainable in the long term the UK pricing model is.
|Thread: Lightning storm|
One of the 'unique ' features of the storm that destroyed the roof of York Minster back in 1984 was lightning without any sound of thunder
|Thread: Workshop in this weather..?|
Oodles of high grade insulation, vented cavity behind the cladding, shading of windows with an overhang, a green roof, and a solar air heater that was automatically rejecting any external heat input back to atmosphere before breakfast this morning.
Indoor Temperature? controlled around 18 deg C as it has been for the past few years right around the clock winter spring summer and autumn plus or minus a degree or so. Short sleeve weather every single hour of every single day of the year.
No wood burner needed, no need to chop any fuel, no energy input other than that from the sun, that dissipated from the machines and some occupancy heat, zero CO2 emissions, properly ventilated but with no need for open doors.
|Thread: Collet Chucks|
Maybe eight or ten years ago not long after Chronos first brought onto the UK market the Soba ER32 chucks for the Boxford lathe they wouldn't even thread on the spindle nose more than a turn or two because although they were bang on 8tpi they were supplied with a 60 degree unified thread form rather than a 55 degree whitworth thread form
Phoned up, same story, about them 'all being the same' and 'no one else had a problem' exchanged for another one, exactly the same issue.
Was it my spindle. No. I tried it on my other Boxford (1950's rather than 1960's) then on a spare 'used' spindle I picked up long ago and finally on a brand new 350 quid 1980's produced spindle still in the wrapping from Boxford.
Total waste of my time, their time, the CNC time and 40 quid or whatever. (The only thing even remotely acceptable quality was the collet nut but I've since replaced all mine with the ball bearing type)
So I bought a backplate and ER32 chuck from Arc Euro and although it's slightly more bulky it fits both lathes perfectly and runs true although to be honest that is with a 10ths indicator - I haven't measured it with my 0.5 um Mahr comparator.
|Thread: Hobby related jokes|
Yet quoting 1132 characters to add one line of piffle is?
Excuse me I shall have to go to A&E as my sides have surely split
£380 in 1973 = £4,368.98 in 2017
You can buy a really good 5" chuck (Pratt Burnerd / Bison) for 300 quid (including vat) in todays money and a motor is around £150 for something still made in the UK, add in £1000 quid for a stand and a really posh hand polished powder coat / paint job and a bit under 500 quid for the inverter, control gear and chuck guard.
Nope, still can't get anywhere near that 9780 quid
Using the manufacturing techniques Myford used to use you might see why 8k was the price to the customer.
But with the 'new Myford' it's difficult to see how it's ended up the same price. For sure it's a lot more 'complicated' than a boxy relatively rough piece of cast iron from the far east, and it's almost certainly better finished but it's one hell a lot of money for not much metal. It only comes with one chuck and is powered by a 0.75kW motor.
But it's not actually '8k' its actually 8150 + VAT
A staggering £9780
To put that in perspective for 30k (plus VAT) you can buy a very capable (far east built with UK support) 3 axis CNC vertical machining centre with an 18" x 14" x 14" axis travel, an 8k CAT40 spindle with a 7.5kW motor (machine weight 2.6 tonne) or for that same 30k (plus VAT) a CNC turning centre that will swing a foot diameter, a foot long, with a 12 station turret, with a 6000rpm spindle powered by a 13kW motor (machine weight 3.2 tonne)
Of course neither of those will sit in the corner of a tiny shed but 9780 quid for just 180kg of machinery? That's 54 quid per kg or £24.50 per pound or £1.50 per ounce
|Thread: What did you do Today 2018|
Strangely I came across them just the other day. Within a few clicks I got the distinct impression they were possibly nothing more than a virtual company, selling items that are drop shipped from a range of sources. For instance the gearing range looked a lot like that of HPC
Companies House filing history however appears to show something relatively 'substantial'
|Thread: How can you tell if 316 stainless is that and not 303 or 304 stainless|
Try to drill say a 6mm hole with the wrong end of a drill bit. Press really hard, don't use cutting fluid and get the workpiece really hot . After a couple of minutes try to drill a hole in the same spot using the right end of the drill bit. If the hole drills ok it's 303, if it doesn't it's either 304 or 316 but probably 316.
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