Here is a list of all the postings Thor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Confused about lathe.|
Welcome to the forum. I have a 290 lathe - almost the same as the WM 280 you mentioned, I am pleased with my lathe. The gears on my 290 are all cast iron. The 280/290 lathes I have seen have power cross-feed from a separate shaft.
|Thread: Alan Stepney’s Model Engineering Website|
Is this link helpful?
|Thread: Machining cylinder castings from bar stock|
I mounted the cylinders on a mandrel when machining the cylinders for a 2-cylinder engine. I had made the top covers first and used them as jigs for spotting the holes in the cylinders. The mandrel I used had a flange with the holes on the same PCD as the cylinders. You can read what I did from page 6 here.
|Thread: Cheap carbide inserts - where's the market?|
I have tried both expensive branded inserts and cheap non-branded. The expensive ones works well, but I have found that some of the non-branded also work well, even if they cost 30% less. So I now use the cheaper ones, and they seem to last as long as the more expensive ones.
|Thread: New Machine|
I cleaned my machines more or less as David, I used an odorless lamp oil instead of paraffin and a plastic card to scrape away the coating, then wipe with a paper towel before applying slideway oil.
Edited By Thor on 25/11/2018 11:33:22
|Thread: New Lathe Tooling|
When I got my 290 lathe I had the help of two strong lads, I placed a shaft with a 200mm dia. wheel at each end under one end of the crate and a sack truck at the other end. We used a few bits of ply on the lawn and we had no problem moving the lathe. It is easy to remove the chuck, topslide and tailstock first. I used a chain hoist and a helper to get the lathe up on its stand. So the four of you shouldn't have much problem.
Welcome to the forum and congratulations with your 290. I have a similar lathe - different paint scheme - and so far the lathe has not given me any problems. A dial gauge is very handy when centering stock in the 4-jaw. Start with some HSS tools as adviced, and some free-cutting mild steel. There are several UK suppliers of materials for model engineers, a few links:
|Thread: Do you clean up your rough end|
I made the same experience as you years ago so I try to clean up the sharp end of the bars before putting them back in the storage rack.
Welcome to the forum. I don't know if you have read this thread?
Since I don't live in France I can't give you any advice about French suppliers, I guess others will come along offering advice. I get some of the metals I need from UK suppliers, here are few links that may be of help:
Edited By Thor on 03/11/2018 13:55:55
|Thread: complicated gear cutting write up - using taps|
|Thread: Newbie Question - Leblonde Regal 13”|
As Ady says, 500rpm will be OK, use sharp HSS tools and a suitable feed. I have made a few stationary steam engines and have enjoyed making them.
|Thread: Machining gun metal|
I have machined LG2, and as Mick I run the work at about the same speed as you would for free cutting brass.
|Thread: Quality/Durability of milling cutters|
I only have one Clarkson slot drill and that one has worked well so far. I also have non branded Chinese milling cutters, not quite the same as Dormer, but then they are a lot cheaper. I regrind the larger Chinese ones occasionally and use them for roughing cuts.
|Thread: Model Engineering Threads|
The ME threads have 32 or 40 TPI Whitworth form and the same TPI for many different diameters, and I have only seen them on boiler fittings. For the BSP threads the number of threads per inch varies with the diameter.
|Thread: ER 32 collet holder run out|
6 thou is worse than I managed on my homemade ER-32 chuck for my small lathe, I ended up with around 1 thou, but my chuck mounts directly on the lathe spindle nose.
|Thread: New Mill - Starter Tooling|
Your starter set sounds reasonable to me. I use slot drills (2 flute mills) a lot so I have a collection of slot drills in addition to the 4-flute end mills. What additional tooling you might want depends on what you want to make, I have a couple of rotary tables, tilting vice, toolmakers vice, end mill holders, finger collets and 13 and 16mm arbors, but these has accumulated over many years. Congratulations with you new milling machine, I still have my old X2.
Edited By Thor on 05/10/2018 09:40:01
|Thread: Lathe or Mill?|
As Jason, I would keep the lathe since I have a home made milling slide I can mount on the lathe cross slide. Most of the work I do involve turning. If buying new and with limited space, may be a lathe with a milling head mounted at the rear of the bed. I can in fact do that with the 290 lathe I already have, probably not as good as a milling machine though.
|Thread: A tale of two suppliers|
I have the same good experience with Tracy Tools as you and Mick, delivery to me takes a bit longer though, mainly due to our mail system.
|Thread: mini lathe chuck replacing.|
Edited By Thor on 26/09/2018 18:01:15
|Thread: Confused abut the oil?|
No experience with a Colchester as new as yours, but on an old one from the nineteen seventies we used ISO 32 hydraulic oil (Shell Tellus) for the headstock and ISO 68 way oil (Shell Tonna) for the rest, same as Chris used.
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