Here is a list of all the postings Thor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Tilting table getting there.|
The table looks nice, I like the clamps you made,
|Thread: EMCO compact 8 parts|
Hi Y C,
Like John Alexander I have an old Compact 8 (1976) and the olnly part exchanged is the cross feed nut. I got my spare from Austria (Emco Holz und Hobby). If you can't find a replacement part, it is not too difficult to make one. I did when making a topslide with longer movement.
|Thread: ER32, ER25 or Direct R8 collets ?|
using R8 collets will give you maximum height between milling machine table and the cutter. To use ER-32 colleets you need a collet chuck, this will reduce the maximum height between table and cutter compared to using R-8 collets. However each ER collets have a 1mm range, so you need fewer collets.
Edited By Thor on 19/10/2012 18:20:12
|Thread: Atlas 10" runout|
I don't have an Atlas lathe, and my lathe is not nearly as old as yours (from 1976), but I get a runout about 1/4 of your result using just the old MT3 centre. Measuring about 20mm from the spindle nose. Testing for play in the bearing is good advice, you may be able to adjust how much play in the main bearings.
|Thread: Workshop Picture Thread|
|Thread: Milling Machine Lubrication|
I just got a similar milling machine (HBM BF25) with the same sight glass as yours. I e-mailed HBM and got the reply that this is not used to oil the gears. You can remove the sight glass and apply grease to the gears (there should be grease in there from the factory). When finished greasing just pop in the sight glass. Also on my milling machine the gears and splines make some noise.
|Thread: home made lathes and milling machines|
There are several Yahoo groups about building your own machine tools. Here's a few:
In addition there are several gingery_machines groups. May be you will find some of them interesting?
|Thread: Setting angles|
Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 05:59:14
Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 05:59:35
Edited By Thor on 27/08/2012 06:04:15
|Thread: Steam valve plans|
Maybe this link is helpful? It is for a locomotive but I guess it might work for your engine.
|Thread: Uses for old hard drive platters?|
I use pieces of such platters as small parallells or to protect the milling table. As you say Tony, they are accurately machined, and my harddisks seem to have a limited life span (so I have a steady supply).
|Thread: Making a Stuart 10V or 10H|
I too have enjoyede Harold's articles on his website. It is in my Bookmarks list.
|Thread: Weldability of various steels|
Here is a link to the Steel, cuts like butter thread:
|Thread: Message to the Webmaster!|
I have tried the new editor, and has had no problems so far. I am using Windows XP and Firefox 10.0.1.
|Thread: End mill types|
For gripping plain shank end mills or slot drills, you can use ER collets. Most of these collets have a gripping range of 1mm (a 6mm collet would grip tooling with shanks from 6mm down to 5mm). You can get a wide variety of ER collet chucks, and you can buy the collet chuck from one source and collets from another.
|Thread: Double thread T- nuts|
I have used T-nuts similar to JasonB's sketch for several years. They work well. The length of the nuts is so that I just can get them into the T-slots of my Mini-Mill at the end where the handle is. If you need longer T-nuts on the Mini-Mill you can insert them from the other end of the table.
Edited By Thor on 27/01/2012 06:33:01
|Thread: Link to a useful website.|
Thanks Martin and Terry for the links. Seems to be much to learn from that old book,
Edited By Thor on 24/01/2012 18:03:56
|Thread: Tipped Tools|
I agree with mgj, you can use positive rake tipped tools in a small lathe. I find them very useful when turning hard material or material with hard skin or hard spots (castings). I recommend you try a tipped tool in your lathe, especially for roughing cuts. You can then use HSS for the finishing cut.
I don't think mild steel has a high enough carbon content to be hardened by heating and quenching. JasonB suggests silver steel which has a much higher carbon content and can be hardened by heating and quenching, then tempered.
|Thread: ME issue 4270|
I agree with John S., PDF is a much better solution.
|Thread: Milling Machine|
I too clean the T-slots with an old toothbrush. To prevent to much swarf entering the T-slots may be you could cover them with Perspex or something similar? With a bit of heating the Perspex can be bent to make a tray for the swarf, then lift the tray off the milling table and brush the swarf into the dust bin. May be that will save you some time.
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