Here is a list of all the postings Thor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Something for nothing|
I like your idea of recycling, I too used second hand materials for my old lathes bench. Old kitchen tops seem to work well for workshop benches, I use a piece under my new milling machine. .Any possibility for some pictures of your solution.
|Thread: Poor quality finish|
you ask what tooling to use for fine cuts, I would say a sharp HSS tool. I have a small tangential toolholder I use. You can make your own or buy one, it is easy to sharpen the toolbit. This has been discussed on this forum before ***LINK***, another ***LINK***.
Edited By Thor on 20/02/2013 05:50:46
|Thread: Dividing Plate Advice|
Hi Jens Eirik,
I agree that the method I described may not be the most accurate, if your workshop is better equipped there are better methods. If the dividing plate will be used in a dividing head with worm and wheel a small error in the dividing plate will be greatly reduced, as mentioned by Neil. You can use the "inaccurate" dividing plate to make a more accurate one if you have a dividing head with worm and wheel, that was what I did eventually.
|Thread: Reference squares , Cylindrical squares and absolute methods .|
Hi Michael W,
thanks for the thorough explanation, much appreciated.
|Thread: Dividing Plate Advice|
I don't know what kind of pillar drill you have, but mine has a table that can be rotated and the arm carrying the table can be rotated on the column. When I made a dividing plate I glued the paper template to the work and clamped it to the centre of the table. Moved the arm slightly so the centre drill lined up with one of the circles on the template. Then just rotate the table until the drill lines up with each mark, lock the table and drill.
|Thread: Importance of the forum in your life.|
I would miss the forum if the owners "pulled the plug". There are other forums of course, but I like this one (mostly), and I agree with Dennis. As others have said, the software used could be better.
|Thread: Lathe alignment and cross slide play issues|
I have taken the liberty of using your photo and edit it a bit, hope that is OK.
|Thread: Too Hot|
I agree 39 C is too hot to work, Where I live we had earlier this winter 75cm of snowfall in less than 2 days. So half of your temperature brought up north would have been nice.
|Thread: Leveling a Lathe|
have you searched for Lathe Levelling on this forum?
|Thread: Dividing Head|
I don't think you can use the existing plate to make a new one with different number of holes. If you have acccess to a CAD program you can make drawings of the number of holes you need for a new plate, print the drawing and glue it to a blank plate. Then you just drill the holes.
Edited By Thor on 16/02/2013 17:58:22
|Thread: Barley Twist|
very nice work, is the other parts fabricated too?
|Thread: Something a little different from the day to day ME|
thanks for an intersting link. Quite a bit heavier work than I can do on my lathe.
|Thread: Inexpensive Chucks|
strange that you can not get brackets - [ ] - on your norwegian keyboard. No to trouble to get them on mine (Alt Gr + 8 or Alt Gr + 9). Another possibility is to hold down the Alt key and type 091 ( or 093) on the number keypad.
|Thread: Turning Phosphor Bronze|
gunmetal has a different composition from phosphor bronze, and subsequently machines differently. Most gunmetal I have come across contains a small amount of lead to make it easier to machine. The gunmetal I have machined has never presented any difficulty, so as you say it is fairly free cutting. The phosphor bronzes I have seen does not contain any lead (but some P) and are much harder and tougher.
Edited By Thor on 05/02/2013 17:45:02
I will have to agree with Andrew and Chris, but in the cold season I usually spend a few hours in the workshop each day. Just finished a simple wobbler.
|Thread: Stuart V10|
may be this ***LINK*** can be of help?
|Thread: Steam port spacing|
steam engine slide valves often had some movement past the port (lead and lap). You can read a bit about this here, here or here.This will provide extra time for steam to expand and move the piston. If you have access to Model Engineer March 21. 1957 p. 421-422 E.T. Westbury discusses simple slide valve engines.
Edited By Thor on 25/01/2013 18:14:49
Edited By Thor on 25/01/2013 18:33:29
|Thread: Warco WM18 miller problem|
I have a milling machine similiar to Weiss WMD25, ta bit smaller than your WM18, and I have not experienced any of the problems you describe.
|Thread: The first steam engine you built|
If you don't want to spend a lot of money on a kit with castings, Phil's suggestion of building one of Elmer Verburg's engine is good advice. Elmer's engines are made from stock materials, some are easy to build, others a bit more advanced. He even has one with a generator (#40). Click on the link supplied above and download one of Elmer's engines.
|Thread: Carfbide Brazing Help Please|
I have tried to silver solder tungsten carbide onto steel. I used uncoated carbide and used a dry diamond hone on the underside of the carbide piece and cleaned and fluxed before heating. The carbide piece is still firmly attached to the steel.
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