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Member postings for Thor

Here is a list of all the postings Thor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: Internal collets
03/07/2019 15:42:08

Hi Mike,

If you mean "collets" for an expanding mandrel, like this:


They are not difficult to make. When the topslide is set for taper turning I use the same setting both for turning the taper of the mandrel and the collets in the same setting. I turned the taper in more collets than I needed so I have some spares. For slitting I just used a small hacksaw.


Edited By Thor on 03/07/2019 16:07:46

Thread: What do you use your lathe for?
03/07/2019 08:10:52

I too use my lathe primarily for making model steam engines and tools for my machines.


Thread: Fly cutting
02/07/2019 13:39:58

That's good use of an old drill. Broken HSS drills make useful tooolbits. I made a couple of boring bars that work well, a bit smaller than yours though.



Thread: Annealing stainless steel
01/07/2019 06:21:42
Posted by AJW on 30/06/2019 21:22:44:

If it isn't austenitic s/s and I heated it to those high temperatures followed by a quench could that turn it harder/more brittle?


If the stainless steel is martensitic that would harden the steel. If it is martensitic cool slowly. I would try with a HSS cobalt drill, a short one is less likely to break. Try a higher speed and more aggressive feed and use coolant.


Edited By Thor on 01/07/2019 06:22:23

30/06/2019 18:58:42

Hi Alan,

If it is austenitic stainless steel you should be able to anneal it by heating but you need a high temperature and then quench. When drilling stainless steel socalled Cobalt drills may be useful and don't let the drill rub. It need to be cutting all the time.


Thread: Tungsten Putty?
30/06/2019 13:43:38
Posted by ega on 30/06/2019 11:18:50:

Tungsten: means heavy stone in Danish.

Yes, it means heavy stone, but are you sure it isn't Swedish? See here.


Thread: Do you use Chinese HSS?
29/06/2019 09:20:52

I have European made HSS toolbits as well as some from ArcEurotrade, can't say I have found much difference. I tend to use carbide tipped tool for roughing and HSS for the finishing cuts.


Thread: Do you clean your workshop at the end of the day?
28/06/2019 13:55:53

I try to clean away most of the swarf at the end of the day and sweep the floor, but I don't spend much time on cleaning up.


Thread: More Workshop space, shall I or not..?
28/06/2019 09:34:13

Hi Ron,

That's a nice and cheap way to put some light over your lathe. I have a fluorescent lamp over my lathe and an anglepoise LED lamp with a magnifying glass, a necessity for my old eyes.


Thread: HSS Tool Bit Size
26/06/2019 06:23:14

Hi Jim,

For my small lathe I use 5mm or 6mm square section HSS toolbits, I have a few 8mm for my larger lathe. As you say it is quicker to grind a smaller section toolbit to shape, I only have a small benchgrinder so large section toolbits takes far to long to grind. On my small lathe I even have a tangential toolholder that takes 1/8" toolbits that I use for small jobs.

Nose radius does play a part in the finish you get, I use a diamond hone to round the corner of the cutting edge. A couple of links you may find useful:




Thread: Suitable wood for making tool holders
25/06/2019 17:36:15

If you can get hold of elm it is among the least acidic, according to this.


Thread: Making a Start in FreeCAD
24/06/2019 16:55:33
Posted by SillyOldDuffer on 24/06/2019 15:26:07:

Very good Thor, much better than mine. Here's something to try. Because the cannon is modelled as a solid, FreeCAD knows where the Centre of Gravity is. In a real cannon the trunnions should be positioned a little forward of the centre of mass such that the gun is balanced slightly base heavy. Makes it easier to adjust elevation with a wedge or screw.

Here's how to find out in FreeCAD by adding a local coordinate system.


Select the whole cannon then click on the 'Create a new local coordinate system' button (under mouse pointer above). Then choose 'Inertial CS' as the attachment mode. In my example the Red X and Green Y lines can be seen marking the balance point.

Try it on your cannon to see how well your trunnions are placed! Quite often if it looks right it is right.


Edited By SillyOldDuffer on 24/06/2019 15:29:20

Thank you Dave for your kind words and showing how to find the balance point. I guess I was lucky?


I understand that adding a local coordinate system is new in v.0.18.



Edited By Thor on 24/06/2019 17:09:06

24/06/2019 14:23:21

I kind of managed to model Dave's cannon:


I left Transparency at approximately 30% to reveal some of the internals.


23/06/2019 14:04:40
Posted by Kiwi Bloke 1 on 23/06/2019 12:41:01:

Here's the problem. When I applied a chamfer to the annular surface at either of the junctions of the two different diameters of the shank of the chuck key model, FreeCAD produced the expected 'external' chamfer, but also an internal 'fillet' (as would be produced by a V-shaped turning tool). I haven't found a way to restrict chamfers (or what FreeCAD calls 'fillets', but what I call 'corner-rounding' to external edges only. Anyone any ideas - without getting deep into python?

That is a bit strange, I just tried to make an external chamfer, and got no fillet (I also chamfered the free end):


On the other end I tried to just make the fillet, and got no chamfer:


I don't know what happened, are you sure you clicked on the circle line, not a surface. If I click on the ringshaped surface and chamfer I also get a fillet.




Edited By Thor on 23/06/2019 14:05:03

Thread: Mill spindle speed
23/06/2019 05:19:04

Hi Chris,

Interesting modification you have made, any chance of a few photos? The top speed depends a bit on the diameter of the cutters you intend to use. Small diameter carbide cutters need a high speed so 4k to 5k rpm might suit you. The smallest cutters I have are 1.5mm HSS and the 2.5k top speed of my milling works OK as long as the feed rate is suitable. I often use a 63mm face mill so most of the time I use the low setting with a top speed of around 1.5k rpm.


Thread: Making a Start in FreeCAD
20/06/2019 12:34:32

Following Dave's excellent tutorial I tried to make a model of something useful, a tray for my ER 16 collets. A friend of mine has access to a 3D printer where he works. I haven't tried printing the model as my friend is on summer vaccation.


I have tried to write an explanation of what I did here, probably many errors so I assume I will have to revise it.


20/06/2019 11:16:38

Hi Kiwi Bloke,

I am trying to understand FreeCAD and have found a few tutorials that you may find helpful:




***Link*** (manual)


19/06/2019 15:55:11

Thanks Dave, will be following with interest.


Thread: Precision Metal Pen Oiler
18/06/2019 13:44:56

Hi Jim,

Those Pen Oilers are very handy, I have had mine for many years and use it when I need to oil my model steam engines.


Thread: Lathe Speed - What am I missing out on?
18/06/2019 05:17:16

Hi Jim,

On my old lathe I do adjust the belt to get different speeds, low speed when turning large diameter jobs since I get more torque and high speed when turning small diameter jobs or brass/alloy to get the job done a bit more quickly.


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