Member postings for Thor

Hi Jeremy,

Know Your Lathe from Boxford has a table showing Centre Holes for 5 to 100mm dia shafts:

Thor

Edited By Thor on 09/04/2020 10:32:36

Hi Jeremy,

A tailstock dieholder is very handy when threading small diameter rods.

Thor

Hi Jeremy,

If you run your model engines often and the engines have to work hard you might want to use a harder steel like silver steel, EN8 or EN16 for things like crankshafts. For parts you want to weld, use mild steel. Check out M-Machine's Material Specification and Comparison. For a steam engine you may want to use materials that are less prone to corrosion like brass or gunmetal instead of cast iron, and stainless steel for the piston rod.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 02/04/2020 05:49:26

Impressive Sam, now you should be able to make your own socket head cap screws.

Thor

***Link*** to a PDF version of Steve's chart.

Thor

Hi Steve,

I have sent you a PM.

Thor

Hi Steve,

Good idea, to get sharper JPG's you could upload your large JPG's to Dropbox (or something similar) and just post links to the larger JPG's. As you say the JPG's shown here isn't very sharp.

Thor

Following the advice from our government, washing my hands, cleaning objects that might get infected and trying to keep at least 1m away from others when I'm out shopping.

Thor

Hi James,

According to this, a 5A fuse might be too small for a 0.5HP motor. Does the motor get hot with the present fuse?

Thor

Stubs used to make silver steel, seems the trademark is now owned by this company, more background info here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 19/03/2020 11:14:52

Hi Jeremy,

I assume you have the manual for the ML10; there is a table of the pitches you can cut. With the right changewheels you should be able to cut most of the imperial threads a model engineer would need.

Thor

Hi Garry,

The inserts I use has a nose radius of 0.4mm that I find work well for my small lathe where I use a small cutting depth. A larger nose radius will give a stronger edge and can be used for a larger depth of cut. Sandvik has some explanations here.

Thor

Hi Brian,

I just checked the Boxford group, the last message I can see is from the end of Feb.as you say.The EmcoV10 group has messages from today.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 14/03/2020 15:59:02

When I used mineral based chainsaw oil I tended to blend it with some ISO 68 mineral oil (may be not be low viscosity) because, as you say, chainsaw oil tends to be a bit more viscous. The chainsaw oil worked fairly well on the vertical slides on the milling machine.

Thor

I too have used mineral based chainsaw oil for my milling machine and lathe ways, thinking that some lubrication is better than no lubrication. I have also used car engine oil, both have worked, but when a friend gave me 5L of proper way oil I said thank you very much. I too experienced smoother movement of the slides and the price was of course, excellent. I now use the mineral based chainsaw oil on the lathe change gears.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 13/03/2020 09:45:03

Hi Steve,

Measuring how much room you have for your milling machine is good advice. I would recommend a milling machine with a square section dovetail column. My milling machine has a MT 3 spindle which means I can use the same tooling in both my small lathe and the milling machine, R8 might be a better choice if your lathe doesn't have a MT3 spindle. A gear head machine will have more torque at low RPM's so if you intend to use flycutters or large facemills a gear head might be an advantage. If you go for one with electronic speed control, a brushless DC motor will have more torque at low RPM's than a brushed DC motor. On my new lathe I have a 3 phase motor and VFD and the possibility to change the drive belts to give low speeds and high torque or a more direct drive at high speed. I'm very satisfied with the 3 pjase VFD combination.

Thor

There is an article by Neil here, another one here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 01/03/2020 04:54:04

I too use the HT5 type flux for all my brazing, and as Brian says, the flux residues may take be a bit more difficult to remove and need a longer pickle time.

Thor

Hi Jeremy,

The ML10 leadscrew clutch is demonstrated in this video:

You can get a manual for the ML10 here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 20/02/2020 05:33:01

You can download a Mk.2 parts list here, and you can find Boxford's "Know your lathe" here.

Thor