Member postings for Thor

Nice angle plates and thanks for sharing, I made something similar a few years ago but borrowed my friends angleplate when machining the two large sides.

Thor

Nice work on the vise, must find time to make something similar for my small milling machine.

Thor

Hi Sean,

There are some Colchester serial numbers available here.

Thor

Hei Vidar,

Velkommen til forumet, godt å se andre med samme interesser fra hjemlandet.

Thor

Hi Will,

The middle tool looks like a boring bar, you are probably right that the tool to the left is for parting (or grooving) and the two rightmost for cutting internal threads. A few tools made from HSS blanks should get you started. For advice on grinding HSS lathe tools look here or here.

Thor

Hi Jim,

A 20mm collet is normally the largest collet you get for an ER 32 chuck, I have an oversize 25mm collet for my ER 32 chuck, it is a bit shorter than the smaller capacity collets I have, but works OK. I got my 25mm collet from Gloster's Ebay shop, as mentioned by Jason.

Thor

Hi John,

I have never had any cutter slip in my ER chucks, I do use ball bearing closing nuts. As John R says you need a high tightening torque, 77 ft/lbs for an ER 25 size collet according to this website.

Thor

I try to mark my stock much the same way as Jeff. If I don't mark it I forget what material it was.

Thor

Yes Bill,

wasn't in a kitchen though, so now I have a foam fire extinguisher, and CO2 fire extinguisher for fires in electric equipment.

Thor

Yes, and K68 also on the slideways, as said here.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 15/09/2019 05:58:53

Hi Phil,

Glad to hear that you managed to solve the problem.

Thor

Hi Vic,

Years ago I made a simple one with 10mm OD, there is a simple sketch at the end of this pdf.

Thor

I used Delrin to make a 28T gear wheel for my metric lathe (3mm pitch leadscrew), it has worked well for many years so Tufnol (sheet) should work well. A 30T gear was supplied with my Thread Dial Indicator.

Thor

Edited By Thor on 10/09/2019 05:15:01

Hi Shaun,

Welcome to the forum and congratulations with your "new" lathe. I don't know if you got a manual with the lathe, if not you can download one from here. And here is an article about lubricating series 7 lathes. Good luck.

Thor

Hi Stephen,

I'm using a Sievert Promatic system with a clip on 0 - 2 bar regulator on ordinary propane bottles that I can get at my local garage. It has worked very well for my brazing work.

Thor

Heating and dipping in oil can give a nice black finish. I usually use linseed oil on a small piece of cloth, heat the part and apply the oil until I get the finish I want. In my experience this will give some rust protection, especially if you wipe a bit of oil onto the parts occasionally.

Thor

Steve, it depends on whether the MT1 part is through hardened or just case hardened, may it isn't very hard at all. I have cut a case-hardened shank by using a carbide tool to get through the hard skin before using a hacksaw. It was then possible to drill into the cut end (drill was a bit blunt afterwards). Good luck.

Thor

I use my normal varifocal glasses and a face shield, as Nick says, much cheaper and it protects the hole of my face.

Thor

I haven't compared the internals of 38mm and 26mm spindle bore sizes, but I'm very glad I bought the 290 lathe with 38mm bore since I turn 30mm bars quite often. If there were room in my small workshop for a lathe with 50mm bore I would seriously considered such a lathe.

Thor

I have turned small steam engines, 150mm dia. steel backplates, hard steel bars, light alloy and brass, it works well for the work I do. If you can get an Emco 11 in good condition, buy it.

Thor