Here is a list of all the postings Thor has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: HSS Tool Bit Size|
For my small lathe I use 5mm or 6mm square section HSS toolbits, I have a few 8mm for my larger lathe. As you say it is quicker to grind a smaller section toolbit to shape, I only have a small benchgrinder so large section toolbits takes far to long to grind. On my small lathe I even have a tangential toolholder that takes 1/8" toolbits that I use for small jobs.
Nose radius does play a part in the finish you get, I use a diamond hone to round the corner of the cutting edge. A couple of links you may find useful:
|Thread: Suitable wood for making tool holders|
If you can get hold of elm it is among the least acidic, according to this.
|Thread: Making a Start in FreeCAD|
Thank you Dave for your kind words and showing how to find the balance point. I guess I was lucky?
I understand that adding a local coordinate system is new in v.0.18.
Edited By Thor on 24/06/2019 17:09:06
I kind of managed to model Dave's cannon:
I left Transparency at approximately 30% to reveal some of the internals.
That is a bit strange, I just tried to make an external chamfer, and got no fillet (I also chamfered the free end):
On the other end I tried to just make the fillet, and got no chamfer:
I don't know what happened, are you sure you clicked on the circle line, not a surface. If I click on the ringshaped surface and chamfer I also get a fillet.
Edited By Thor on 23/06/2019 14:05:03
|Thread: Mill spindle speed|
Interesting modification you have made, any chance of a few photos? The top speed depends a bit on the diameter of the cutters you intend to use. Small diameter carbide cutters need a high speed so 4k to 5k rpm might suit you. The smallest cutters I have are 1.5mm HSS and the 2.5k top speed of my milling works OK as long as the feed rate is suitable. I often use a 63mm face mill so most of the time I use the low setting with a top speed of around 1.5k rpm.
|Thread: Making a Start in FreeCAD|
Following Dave's excellent tutorial I tried to make a model of something useful, a tray for my ER 16 collets. A friend of mine has access to a 3D printer where he works. I haven't tried printing the model as my friend is on summer vaccation.
I have tried to write an explanation of what I did here, probably many errors so I assume I will have to revise it.
Hi Kiwi Bloke,
I am trying to understand FreeCAD and have found a few tutorials that you may find helpful:
Thanks Dave, will be following with interest.
|Thread: Precision Metal Pen Oiler|
Those Pen Oilers are very handy, I have had mine for many years and use it when I need to oil my model steam engines.
|Thread: Lathe Speed - What am I missing out on?|
On my old lathe I do adjust the belt to get different speeds, low speed when turning large diameter jobs since I get more torque and high speed when turning small diameter jobs or brass/alloy to get the job done a bit more quickly.
|Thread: Meek screwcutting dog-clutch|
Congratulation, excellent job as usual. I'm impressed how you have managed to fit it inside the rear cover.
|Thread: Carbide inserts tool holders.|
On the few holders I have come across I was able to mill the holder down using a carbide tipped cutter, would probably be possible with a HSS cutter but the edge might need grinding afterwards.
|Thread: Material storage fpr Lathe/other machines|
A very nice solution, and as Bazyle says, that is a clean and tidy workshop.
|Thread: New vice, good choice?|
I have got two screwless vices and are very satisfied with mine. They are not to large for my milling machine.
|Thread: 4 jaw chucks|
When I installed a smaller 4-jaw independent chuck on my small lathe I already had a backplate with the correct register diameter, but with 3 mounting holes. So I simply put a mounting bolt in one in one of the holes in the backplate and used one of the 4 holes in the 4-jaw, then I could use the backplate as a drilling jig to mark the position of two new holes at the back of the chuck and drill and tap those two holes. Saved me some work and time, I agree 4 bolts would have been better but a couple of the holes would have interfered with the bolts that mount the backplate to the lathe mandrel. It has worked well for several years.
|Thread: Cardibe inserts|
Some of the inserts I have has a small hole in the centre, they are intended for holders with a short pin on the underside of the bridge clamp (see Ian's post), the pin prevents the insert from moving when taking heavy cuts (well, so I was told when I bought the inserts). May be yours can be used in a similar holder.
|Thread: Coolant Flow Rates|
I too usually turn and mill without using coolant. When using HSS tools without coolant I run at a somewhat slower speed than the tool manufacturer recommends as their speeds are for industrial machines with flood coolant.
|Thread: What are you using for Lathe Way Oil?|
I too use ISO 68 way oil since a friend gave me a 4L can, before that I used mineral based chainsaw oil mixed with a plain ISO 68 oil. The carriage seems to move slightly more smoothly using proper way oil.
|Thread: How often do you oil your lathe ways?|
I do pretty much the same as Hopper do, lubricate the ways at the start of the session, afterwards I clean the ways and add a few drops of oil.
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