Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018|
Hi Thanks for that Jason,
I'm currently doing a CAD drawing for the whole model and from it I could see with a 7/16" stroke the hole centres were closer together. I made it 0.165" so with 2mm holes it would leave just over a 2mm space in between them.
I will look at 0.486 I think there is just enough room to accommodate a slightly longer stroke of around 15/16" to 31/32".
thanks again for your help
Just completed the pillar and and base for a small Muncaster engine.
Many of you will know that the Muncaster engines were covered by E.T. Westbury in a series of M.E. articles back in 1957. This engine is the simple single oscillator which commenced the series.
Could I ask has anyone made this model to the Westbury/Muncaster sizes and if so what stroke did you use. Neither Westbury or Muncaster specify a stroke for the engine. Using the scale on the Westbury scale drawings it appears the crank has a throw of approximately 7/16" so the stroke I estimate would be 7/8".
Any feedback would be appreciated
|Thread: Machining a cast wheel what do you grip first?|
Tubal cain video on you tube shows how to machine a stuart progress engine flywheel.
Might be of interest to you, it's in part 3
Google making a stuart progress engine and you will find it.
|Thread: small cast iron flywheel|
Well I now have the flywheel I was looking for, bought from Stuart models last week.
It is the one used on the progress model and should machine down ok to my upper limit of 60mm.
It's not listed on the Stuart website on the flywheel page but is available to buy separately.
I thought it was bit expensive but having said that I'm glad I bought it last week as Stuart have just put their prices up.
|Thread: Jones .605 Glow engine|
Well done Keith,
.That's an impressive test stand as well
simply bearings have a great range of bearings, may have what you need.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress thread 2018|
Yes, agree with Neil. Really nice work, caught my eye this engine, unusual. Well done Jim.
|Thread: small cast iron flywheel|
Gentleman, thank you for all your replies on this post, lots of good ideas/advice.
When I finish the model, a simple oscillator I will post a picture.
Thanks again Geoff
Take the plunge and make from solid ?
Well that's an option Chris but lately alI I seem to be doing is sawing big lumps of cast iron, I'm sick of it mate!!!!!
No I'll make a pattern and have one cast up if I can't source one on the internet.
Still looking gents can anyone help
I'm looking for a small cast iron flywheel but having tried all the usual sources am unable to find what I want.
Ideally cast iron, five or six straight spokes, between 50 and 60 mm diameter with a face width of 8 to 10 mm. 75 mm diameter is too big.
Best I can find is the stuart progress flywheel at 2 1/2 " but that seems to be unavailable from them at the present time.
Reeves have a gunmetal one for the nicholas engine. This has curved spokes and would be ok but I would prefer cast iron.
Can anyone help, many thanks in advance
|Thread: Murray's Hypocycloidal Engine - Antony Mount|
This stuff is great for gaskets, ebay item number 173028673495.
0.1mm PTFE sheet, high temperature resistant, 300 x 1000 mm.
Very easy to cut and shape with a small sharp craft knife and "cheap as chips" to buy
I used it for gaskets on my small jepson engine, gave perfect seals all round.
Comes from China but worth the wait.
|Thread: WT2527 15cc Glow Engine|
Nice work Craig and welcome,
This thread is right up my street, I shall follow it with interest.
|Thread: Cutting gears|
What equipment do you have? If you have a horizontal milling machine and a dividing head you are well on your way to making gears.
If you just have a lathe you can improvise but you will have much to do before you can cut gears.
The photo you see below is my gear gear cutting arrangement for a 13t tumbler gear.
The arbour holding the gear cutter has morse taper and uses a long draw bar to secure it in place. Don't trust a morse taper without a draw bar when gear cutting.
Hope this helps, more details on request Geoff
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
Thank you for your comments and also thank you, somewhat belatedly to Jim Nic for his earlier post
This is the first steam engine I have made but with it being an obscure design I have found it difficult to assess how well it actually runs, apart from a "gut" feeling that it seems ok?
Therefore feedback from experienced modelers like yourself is much appreciated.
Thank you again Geoff
Took a day of today from usual activities to prepare the Jepson engine for steaming.
Added the home made displacement lubricator to the valve chest, then the three oil cups.
The oil cups hold oil to lubricate all the external moving parts. the two main bearing ones also lubricate the big end and the eccentric via oil channels in the crankshaft. The other one carries oil via a down pipe to the cross and the small end.
Bought the cups on ebay, "cheap as chips", £1.50 for 10, why bother making them!!
Also added an additional flywheel. The engine runs fine with the combined flywheels/crank but better with the added flywheel.
I bought some PTFE sheet to make gaskets. Really impressed, only .004" thick and very easy to cut and shape with a sharp modelling knife and gives a perfect seal.
It would appear to me that I have an internet world exclusive on this engine. I've searched and can't find a single example, apart from mine of course.
Best to all Geoff
|Thread: Can't wrap my head around gear cutting, RE: Gear blank diameter.|
Sorry guys, silly me,
I'm confused, must be an age thing.
I thought the myford gears were the same as boxford 9/16" bore.
Now I know the number of teeth, and I know the inside bore (5/8) and I know the pressure angle 14.5 degrees.
If you have gears with a 5/8" bore and a P.A. of 14.5 degrees then they are not super 7 gears.
These gear sizes are the same as the ones for a myford m type lathe which are 14 d.p.
The gears you have listed are all standard for the m type except for the 25 and 75. Are you sure the 75 is not 73 which is one of the standard metric gears for the M type.
The m type has 2 X 20, 2 X 30, 35, 38, 40, 45, 46 (metric) 50, 55, 60, 65, 73 (metric).
The dial on the m type cross slide also has 100 divisions.
Sorry if this is a daft question but are you your lathe is a super 7?
|Thread: scratch build|
Welcome to the forum
I lived in north wales for over 30 years, still miss the area a lot.
Where do you live?
Sand casting sounds interesting, are you setting up a mini foundry?
good luck with future projects
|Thread: Chuky in progress|
Flywheel looks well made, does it need balancing?
Assuming you have a reamed hole in the centre, why not make a small length of shaft lightly centre drilled at both ends, slide it through the hole and set it up between centres on the M type. If there is a grub screw in the flywheel lock it on the shaft. Just spinning the wheel will give you an immediate indication of whether it is out of balance which I would say is unlikely.
Just my thoughts David, I'm up early this morning, you may get a better answer later in the day!
Keep posting David, I like this engine a lot
|Thread: Jason's Firefly .46 Build|
Nice job Keith, I know how you feel, it was my first engine as well.
I also used ball races instead of the plain bronze one. No particular reason just seemed like a good idea.
Mine has been in the air today on a cougar 2000 model. The slightly larger carb is one I made for Jones 605, easier to tune for performance. Just about fits in the barrel space. The Cougar is a small light model which was about the size limit for my engine.
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