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Member postings for geoff walker 1

Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.

Thread: M type lathe tumbler reverse
20/03/2019 11:12:44

Excellent work, nice castings!!!!!


Thread: Tool Post Milling/Drilling Attachment
19/03/2019 16:43:53

Hi Rod,

Nice set up that, I like what you have done.

You and Nick have also got me thinking. I have used this set up for years on my M type but now I have the seig mill I never use it.

With not too much trouble I guess I could retain the V/S, turn the potts through 90 degrees and mount the parvalux over the top.

We shall see, thanks to both for posting your work, very interesting.



Thread: Rear toolpost for M Type Drummond lathe
16/03/2019 12:29:38

Hi All

I've Still got a few castings left if anyone is interested.

See the classifieds for details


Thread: Soba rotary table
16/03/2019 11:47:42

Hi Neil

My table has the cylinderical worm enveloping gear, very nicely made, all 47 teeth!!!!


13/03/2019 15:14:43

Posted by geoff walker 1 on 13/03/2019 09:23:31:

On accuracy this table is 7.5 degrees out over a full 360 degree rotation of the table. The hand wheel dial is indexed with 7.5 degrees and the hand wheel rotates exactly 47 times for one rotation of the table, should of course be 48.

LOL. Cost saving measure. One tooth saved on each worm gear means that every 47th gear they get one for free. cheeky

I bet you had some headaches until you worked that one out though. Who would think to check that?

Hi Pete,

Yes I did have some headaches!!!

When I first got this table I set the 0 on the circumference dial to the cursor and 0 on the hand wheel dial to the cursor, then turned the table through 360 degrees and much to my astonishment the dials lined up again. I thought WOW!!! that's accurate. Of course at the time I didn't realise that I was one turn short, 47 x 7.5 degrees and not 48.

The table has a cumulative error of 1.25 minutes per degree of revolution.

As I said in the original post I can still use table by making a coarse setting with the circum dial, which is accurately engraved and a fine setting with hand wheel dial. So for say 132 degrees turn 130 on the circum dial and 2 on the hand wheel dial. This gives me "theoretically" 132 degrees with an error of 2.5 minutes which is fine for what I do


13/03/2019 09:23:31

Or... Just accept it for what it is, a cheaply made bit of kit to provide an economical solution to the masses with a standard of accuracy commensurate with its cost. OP didn't state why he had bought it and what it's intended use is. If it's for the usual back yard engineering jobs like steam engines then bolt it on your machine and get using it. If it's for instrument making which requires extreme precision and formal calibration of the final product make sure your shop is kept at 20 degrees at all times, your measurement tools are only of the highest quality properly calibrated and buy a decent one. What else can be said? Seem to be a lot of people here chasing elusive microns where a couple of thou or in some cases 1/64" is perfectly adequate. Life and hence time allotted to us is finite so spend it getting on with the project and not chasing accuracy you don't really need! If you do need it don't buy your kit from purveyors of leisure grade equipment.


I have read all of this thread with interest but particularly liked this post from Paul. Sums up My attitude!!

I bought this small rotary table from GDR some months ago and despite it having numerous faults it's ok for me and the standards I need to set when making my models. I've had to modify and improvise to make it usable but as I have said before it was "cheap as chips".

On accuracy this table is 7.5 degrees out over a full 360 degree rotation of the table. The hand wheel dial is indexed with 7.5 degrees and the hand wheel rotates exactly 47 times for one rotation of the table, should of course be 48.

I get round this by using the scale on the circumference of the table. For say 92 degrees I advance 90 degrees and then add 2 degrees from the hand wheel dial. that's accurate enough for me and the work I do

20180905_143457 (2).jpg

Cheers Geoff

Thread: Another new mill
12/03/2019 16:51:56

Hi Bob,

For the reversing switch for the sx2p mini mill, google - Electronics- hacking the sx2 mini mill - that will get you the right page,

You will need a small on/on toggle switch, with 3 terminals, and a male plug to fit the spare socket on the circuit board. The plug I used was off an old r/c servo.

Read the article and you will see how simple it is to fit one.


10/03/2019 13:00:24

Hi Andrew,

Good point, Andrew, normally that would be the answer.

My problem was that with the home made fixture you see in the photo I can only access the gear blank from one side and that meant the spindle had to run in reverse.


10/03/2019 12:18:02

Hi All,

I've been gear cutting on the SX2P this weekend.

This machine continues to surprise me, I thought that the set up in the photo would be overloading the motor and it would labour when cutting the spaces.

Not so, with the spindle running at it's slowest practical speed, around 80 r.p.m. it "chomped" through the cast iron gear blanks. Admittedly easy machining stuff, like meehanite but still impressive for such a small machine. The whole machine steady as a rock.


I had to fit a reversing switch first as it was necessary to run the spindle in reverse. You can see the switch in the photo. for SX2P owners out there fitting the switch is really simple, with all the materials to hand about 15 minutes work. For details of how to fit one go to this web site


Thread: Castings
09/03/2019 15:23:12

Hi Adrian,

It's true what you say pattern making is a real art and very complex patterns are best left to the experts.

However simple pattern making is not that difficult but having said that you would need reasonably good woodworking skills and equipment. That is assuming you make them from wood with mahogany being a good choice for most patterns.

I would suggest you do some basic reading on sand casting and pattern making. An old school metalwork book would be a good choice, explains the processes but in a simple straightforward way.

If you do decide on a project do some simple sketches of your idea, post them on here a see what response you get. I've done a lot of pattern making so providing I don't miss your post I certainly will respond.

Good luck Geoff

Thread: SX2p mill gas struts
25/02/2019 16:08:58

Hi John

I used 120n on mine which easily supports the head and doesn't offer too much resistance


Thread: Green Twin Oscillator - 2019 Update
18/02/2019 11:44:01

Hi Jason,

Thanks for your reply. I thought about the pipes coming sideways but would prefer to have them exiting from the underside of the valve block then down through holes in the base into a hollow plinth where there will now be ample space for the pipework, to link the blocks. All the pipework will be concealed apart from a short inlet and exhaust pipe.

I am making the blocks muncaster style with two semi circular grooves as shown in the picture.


I really must open a build log on this engine, will do when I get back from holiday.

Thanks again Geoff

16/02/2019 14:21:53

Hi Pat,

Thank you for your P.M., I'll get back to you on that.

Really glad you posted the video. I was have having a real problem arranging the pipe work for my engine.

Referring back to my earlier post you have given me the answer.

By switching the port and pivot blocks around, which I can do, I will have ample space to arrange the pipe work and be able to use compression fittings.

With the port blocks inside of the cylinders space was very tight.

Thanks again Geoff

14/02/2019 09:19:03

Hi Pat,

This side of the pond is good, a little cold but gradually getting warmer, assume you live stateside.

Nice model well done, runs well.

I am currently making a twin cylinder d/a oscillator with a similar configuration to yours using a central cast iron flywheel and cylinders cast in iron from home made patterns. Unfortunately I don't have foundry like yours!!!!

Could I ask is there any particular reason that you have the port blocks on the outside of the cylinders and the pivot blocks on the inside? My plan is to do it the other way round.

Also what size is your engine, i.e. stroke length, bore size etc.

cheers Geoff

Thread: Jason's Firefly .46 Build
11/02/2019 18:26:38

Hi Peter,

If you are making a new liner and presumably a new piston then it might be of interest to you to have a look at the website referred to in an earlier post by Ian Hewson

The site is Adrians model aero engines. In the technical topics section there is an excellent article by a guy called Ken Croft on cylinder liners and pistons including lapping and fitting.

I found it really interesting, maybe you will too.


Thread: Boyes of York, good value
08/02/2019 13:09:13

Hi All,

We had a very enjoyable weekend in York recently.

While there I called in Boyes. Never heard of the them before but apparently they are discount chain in the North.

I picked up a set of small HSS drills. 20 in total from 0.3mm up to 1.6mm. Cost about £2.50 for the set, and they're ok, I have used a couple, only on non ferrous but they feel good.

Also picked up a set of 5 needle files all with small soft feel handles, about £3.

Worth a look if you have a Boyes store in your area.


Thread: Jason's Firefly .46 Build
07/02/2019 19:43:49

Hi All,

Dismantled the firefly yesterday for a winter service.

My "pilot", John, a friend and experienced aeromodeller felt that the engine was starting to labour over the few months of flying. I wasn't really surprised because it's been worked hard over the last year.

I was surprised when I opened it up and discovered the wear in the con rod. The big end hole was elongated by a good 0.010" so much so that the underside of rod had been rubbing against the crankcase. The small end was also a sloppy fit. I'm curious as to why it has worn so much. I used H15 alloy as specified and the crank and gudgeon pin were polished before assembly two years ago. Both ends had lubrication holes to feed the bearing surface. Is this sort of wear to be expected from a plain con rod with no additional bearing material?

Anyway using my new super dooper Seig mill it was a simple task to open the holes up and insert slimline phosphor bronze bearings. You can see the renovated rod in the photo. Let's hope they stand up better than the plain alloy bearing, time will tell.



Thread: Hip replacement - End of live steam?
04/02/2019 15:35:01

Yes, good for you sir! you're looking good

Hunslet looks great as well.


Thread: M Type Apron Direction
04/02/2019 11:49:56


I would agree that switching between lathes with a different handwheel feed rotation is certainly NOT recommended.

A friend of mine had his drummond M type for 40 years using the factory hand wheel feed set up.

He got a casting of me and did the conversion you see in the earlier post. He said after 1/2 hour using the apron he didn't even have to think about which way to turn the hand wheel even after 40 years of turning it the other way


04/02/2019 11:33:53

Hi Ian,

Picture below of the mew issue 234 conversion.

If you have a go, don't buy the gears from Muffets like I did, very expensive. Use either Boxford or Myford change wheels and modify them, i.e. change the hole size by bushing the existing hole. Lot cheaper way.

I also made a pattern and had a complete new apron cast for the myford, lot of work but neat with the gears enclosed inside.



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