Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lever/Rack tailstock preferences|
Steve, Yeah I also made a lever feed, two in fact, one for each lathe. A good lever feed should have really close fitting pivots so the whole assembly has a positive feel when in use
Wouldn't make one now though, far to busy modelling to make accessories, I've moved on.
P.M. me if you do fancy making one I can give you some ideas.
|Thread: Will I ever need a reversing switch?|
Simple answer with the dewhurst. Remove the handle, shorten it and then refit. No chance now of switching on accidentally and still plenty of leverage to operate the switch.
I would always have a reversing facility as I have no milling machine and require more versatility from the lathe, also an M like yours.
These set ups are a slitting saw on a morse taper milling arbour and on an arbour between centres. Reversing the spindle is essential here as when the work is fed forward into the saw via the cross slide you needs to up cut mill rather than down cut mill as would be the case with spindle running forwards.
Keep the dewhurst Eug. Just wire it in alonside your NVR
|Thread: Harold Halls QCTP|
If he is happy for me to write it up will give it a go,will probably need some advice is there some advice somewhere?
You'll be fine. Write it up, your excellent work looks like the basis for a really interesting article.
I was encouraged to write for MEW by Mr. Alan Hearsum from Derbyshire, a model engineer and long time contributor to MEW and ME magazines.
You will enjoy the experience, its nice to see your work in print and it's also a great feeling when you get paid!!!
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
Thank you and also thanks for the tip, good point.
More pics of progress in due course.
|Thread: Big Ben|
Don't watch much telly but have been getting SWMBO to record one called wheeler dealers on her gadget
Seems to be plenty of them too
There are loads of em Ady, I reckon I've seen em all!
Program inspired me to buy the MR2 and I never thought I would get back into cars again!!!
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
Is there anyone out there ever made this engine, or knows anyone who has?
I have had a good look on the internet and can't find an example anywhere, so it looks like I may be ploughing a lone furrow!!!
The engine first featured in M.E. magazine back in April 1947 as a 2 1/2 page article. That article is now on the John-Tom website. In an earlier post in this thread Jason has given a link to the article.
It is the first steam engine I have ever built and probably not the best choice as I've had problems. I would not recommend this engine as a first build. Having said that I am "getting there", slowly and gradually more surely. The drawings in the article are good but not 100% correct so beware if you are to attempt this engine. I am currently CAD the whole engine as I go along hopefully correcting any issues with the drawings.
The photo shows the engine assembled with the main components, which with good running fits turns over nicely.
I'm not looking for specific help at this stage but I will be in due course, probably when I have to set up the as yet unmade valve gear.
Back to the original question. has anyone ever made this engine?
|Thread: Endmill, Slot Drill|
Thank you all for your responses,
I've done it now, 2 flute, nice and steady 5 thou max cut, clean as whistle.
My original post was perhaps misleading. My concern was not so much accuracy but more the way a 2 flute cutter would react. You could just feel it clipping the gudgeon pin hole but otherwise no problem.
The more I get involved with model engineering the more I enjoy it but there are times when using machinery and you are stepping into the unknown, well it can a little nerve wracking!!!
thanks again geoff
doh!!!!!!!!!! connecting rod not crankshaft.
I have a question. The crosshead shown in the photo is made from cast bronze. It is complete except for the slot which needs to be cut for the small end of the crankshaft. The size of the slot is shown in the drawing 5/16" wide and 1/2" long. My question is what type of cutter is best for this job? I will be holding the work, using a vertical slide and vice using the small fixture (or is it a jig?) to set the gudgeon pin hole vertical.
My thoughts are that as this is a "closed" slot a two flute cutter may not be the most appropriate choice. What do you guys think?
|Thread: Stationary steam engine with reversing link|
Thank you for your reply.
I had my eye on the horizontal boiler, should be ok for my engine. Do you have any approximate idea of it's nominal working pressure.
A few main sizes are all I need, diameter and length of the boiler + the height from the center line to the base. I can work all other sizes out from there.
I have a good stock of thin gauge brass for the stand. Where did you get the boiler tube, is it anything special or just large plumbing pipe?
I should be ok to make it but will need to develop some new skills in metal forming and silver soldering + of course acquire the necessary equipment.
Nice job, looks like it's about the height of a "coke can", would that be right?
I'm currently making a similar sized vertical engine like yours but without the reversing gear.
I've just had a browse through your photos and noticed you have made a couple of small, well made, simple boilers. Presumably these boilers would be good for use with your latest engine. Are they your own design or built from available plans?
I am looking to make a simple boiler in conjunction with the engine, your horizontal one maybe?
Can you give me any info that would help me?
|Thread: Drummond Lathes|
Also if you look in my albums there is some pictures and information to look at. I have done some mods like fitting a better saddle clamp and extra spindle thrust bearing which improves Finnish and spindle stability. And also fitting a quick change toolpost
I can highly recommend David's saddle clamp, I have one on my M type. Would not be without it, no more leaning over the machine to lock the saddle. With all the materials to hand you could fit one in 3-4 hours, no problem. Geoff
|Thread: Shaft retaining adhesives|
Geoff, is the round bar in the test piece aluminium or steel? if steel then that would have kicked off the reaction as only one of the two metals being joined needs to be active.
Hi Jason, it's mild steel, so a good point dissimilar materials.
As I had some 1/4" diameter aluminium bar last evening I bonded a short length in the other end of the test piece. I then repeated the test this morning, holding the bar tightly in the vice and rotating the test piece. This time after some effort I managed to crack the joint. So from that you could say that 638 is much more effective used on M.S. as your graph link indicated.
Neil's recent link in an earlier post was of interest, the flow chart on page 16 indicates that 638 was ideal for my jepson engine crankshaft.
I only pinned this crankshaft and crank pin as I had already pre drilled the 1/16" holes in the web. It's now what my Dad would have called " a right belt and braces job". All good fun GEOFF
I thought I would share this with you. The first photo is a scrap piece of aluminium with 4 x 1/4" holes drilled through it. The end hole has a 1/4" round bar loctited in with 638.
I left this overnight and to test the strength I clamped the bar very tightly in the bench vice using soft jaws. I then tried to break the seal by rotating the alloy bar. The whole assembly rotated without breaking the joint. I tightened the vice more as hard as I could and the joint still remained firm. I was amazed how strong it was.
The second photo is the crankshaft for the Jepson engine, again 638 on the shaft and crank pine, and incredibly strong joints.
If I could just reply to your original post.
Loctite 638 is in my limited experience a really strong bond
I have just made a crankshaft, 1/4" diameter, using loctite 638 to to bond it to the crank webs which are made from 5/16" mild steel plate. Same for the crank pin also 1/4" diameter.
Rock solid, I have pinned them as well with 16g panel pins but it was hardly necessary.
Hope this helps Geoff
|Thread: Easy rider in Liepzig|
Spotted this picture in i weekend
Great picture but can't help but think the driver would look better on a 1960's vintage harley cruising California highways to the tune of steppenwolf.
I suppose it takes all kinds, nice model, what is it? geoff
|Thread: Dickson tool post|
Interesting thread this one even though the Dickson theme has been covered a lot.
I bought mine from A and R precision from Coventry who I believe made Dickson holders for Myford until they, A and R, went into liquidation. I had heard a lot about this company and was of the opinion that if they made them for myford then they were likely to be a top quality tool post and holders.
Well it is but I still had problems and had to make adjustments to the two "top hat" locks. Without the adjustments the cam travel was very short and it just didn't feel right. I took each of the two "hats" and carefully reduced the thickness of the "brim" with a small flat needle file. I removed a small amount from each side, about 10 thou, checking each side with a micrometer. This allowed the cam to rotate to a more comfortable and secure locking position. Of course care needs to be taken you don't go too far.
Hope this may be of help to others experiencing the same problem
|Thread: Jason's Firefly .46 Build|
You can't get them free on line now, you may have to buy them!!!.....my hobby store plans service?
Ebay Item number 162651802036. may be of interest to you, R c m and e magazine feb 2012.
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
I misread your post earlier. Yes you're right I wouldn't get the full face width of 7/16".
The waist diameter is 7/16" so is good only for 3/16" each side of the centre line giving a 3/8" face width.
As you have looked at the drawing could I ask the following. The two crank webs are a full circle and quite heavy. Is that because they double up as a webs and a flywheel with the two 5/16" holes making the "web" lighter on one side.
Will post some pics of the finished bearings later in the week.
Thanks, I may well have to go with a vertical slide and in my case angle plate set up.
Would prefer a to do it the other way so I can cut the oil groove in the same setting but as things stand now your suggestion looks the best way forward.
Yes the 7/16" dia will be tight, possibly slightly under but as it's not critical not really a problem. (Both my bearings will have a face width of 3/8"
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.