Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
A fair point.
When I bought my Myford/drummond M type I spent 6 years doing nothing except renovate and make parts/accessories for it plus two other drummond M's a flatbed drummond and ......... a super adept ( now you didn't know that did you?).
This year I decided it was time to make something, the whittaker firefly 46 and now my second the jepson engine which is nearing completion. I now consider myself to be a model engineer but still a tyro.
I had the jepson running today and I'm pleased to say it ran very well. The only problem is keeping it going for an extended period. I ran it off the airbrush compressor which is fine for a small oscillator but the jepson gulps in air like a drowning man rising out of the sea. 15 seconds and the pressure has dropped and the tank has drained. I need a bigger compressor!
|Thread: "It" comes to life again|
I do want to apologize if I sound crabby.
You don't sound crabby to me Dean, very focused and committed maybe but not crabby, I find your work fascinating,I really do and I know from experience how difficult it it is to master the techniques that you are using with such apparent ease.
Speed bumps? We call 'em sleeping policemen this side of the pond.
best wishes geoff
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
With tongue in cheek may I ask, do the moderators of this site have a duty of care to other users?
I speak mainly for old gits like myself. When I started this engine nobody informed me that I would have to make tiny components like these which with failing eyesight and increasingly creaky finger joints has at times been a somewhat onerous task. Hmmmm.
Having said that I'm getting there. The potts set up has been "just the job" for these mini parts.
I'm planning a first test run (air test) on Christmas day as a present to myself. I shall slip away away from the festivities to the haven of the modelling room probably with my young grandson Matty in close attendance.
Speaking of Christmas could I offer my best wishes to everyone all over the world, hope you all have a good 'un with family and friends.
Must confess I still enjoy having the tribe visit, everybody around the big table, party hats donned. The mind is forever young even if the eyesight and joints 'aint. Geoff
|Thread: Live Steam Loco Questions|
I have very little knowledge of live steam locomotives, never made one and it's highly unlikely at my age that I ever will.
What I can say to help Stewart is that my local model engineering society ( Warrington ) attends our local carnival every year and sets up a portable track about 40 yards long. For a small charge around 10 - 12 people can ride on open carriages behind the driver of a small 5" gauge locomotive.
The locomotive in question is a "Simplex" which I believe is very popular club locomotive. Now if it can pull ( and push ) all them people Stewart it will handle a big lad like you, no problem.
Now whether Simplex is simple to make I really don't know but I would suggest it would make a good challenge for somebody with real enthusiasm and a determination to see the job through.
What you are considering Stewart may indeed take over your life but if you are really up for it and you have deep pockets, it aint cheap to make one, my guess would somewhere around £2000 just for the materials, go for it you'll love it.
|Thread: TV tonight|
ITV 3 tonight at 11.00 p.m. An appropriate adult. The story of Fred and Rose West.
A bit gruesome but for you Drummond lathe enthusiasts there is a "guest" appearance by a Drummond round bed lathe ( about half way through ).
If you do tune in you won't believe where the guy is using it.
|Thread: Murray's Hypocycloidal Engine - Antony Mount|
Could I ask, what is the the throw on this engine and how has it been calculated?
I assume from Jasons drawings the throw is the width of an inlet port plus the lap.
So 3/32" + ?
What I'm trying to say is how much is the lap and do you know why it is that amount?
Just curious Mick I am making a similar engine with a similar size valve and trying to understand how the size of the lap is determined.
|Thread: Why Column gear shift|
Column shift was great for changing drivers without stopping the car.
My mate had a vauxhall with column shift. On the long runs to Uni in the late 60's he would partially stand up at the wheel, I would slide across the bench seat into the drivers side and he would step across into the passenger side.
Easy peasy, just slow down to 30 while you make the change.
Long time ago when we were all a bit crazy, well I was!
|Thread: What Did You Do Today (2017)|
Does the slot create a reservoir for bubble mixture to allow larger bubbles to be blown? Expiring minds want to know!
Expiring minds???? you sound good to me Mark. Hope you are with us for some time yet!!! Yes the slot may help but she 'aint getting another go!
You've been busy, nice work, heavy duty stuff, phew!!!
All surfaces are machine cut apart from the slit and the small end radius.
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
A question if I may on the slide valve for this engine.
The last photo in this thread shows the ports in the cylinder block.
The outer dimension across the two inlet ports is 1/2". The ports are 3/32" wide so the inner dimension is 5/16".
From what I have read (M.E. tyro articles by W J Hughes issue 2666 and 2670) the length of the cavity in the slide valve should be the same as the inner dimension (5/16". This would seem to me to be fundamental as with the side valve in a mid position both the inlet ports will be closed. If the slide valve cavity is any longer then both inlet ports will be open with the valve in the mid position, even if only by a small amount.
The drawings for the slide valve on this engine show a cavity length of 3/8". Is this fundamentally wrong, does the length have to be 5/16" or am I missing something?
If you are a "Tyro" like me gents I can recommend the articles by Mr Hughes which also explain clearly the principles of lap, lead, angle of advance etc.
|Thread: looking for a new bench drill|
I'm looking for a new bench drill but a much smaller one suitable for indoor use. To be purely for small drills up to 3.5 mm. in a range of materials, balsa, plywood, M.S. brass, bronze etc. No heavy drilling the boxford union in the workshop does all that.
There are numerous cheapy, cheapy, chinese ones around the £100 mark and all available via delivery from the far east. Not sure about these, look like glorified dremels to me?
The proxxon TBH looks good but at a whopping £365 I would want some really good feedback and a up close look before i would buy at that price.
The axminster XO at £312 also expensive but I do like the variable speed drive, digital readout and the scroll chuck.
Arc euro are offering a sieg XO at £224 which looks very similar in spec and quality to the Axminster and has a ER11 collet chuck option .
Any thoughts on or experience of the above guys? cheers geoff
|Thread: Lever/Rack tailstock preferences|
Steve, Yeah I also made a lever feed, two in fact, one for each lathe. A good lever feed should have really close fitting pivots so the whole assembly has a positive feel when in use
Wouldn't make one now though, far to busy modelling to make accessories, I've moved on.
P.M. me if you do fancy making one I can give you some ideas.
|Thread: Will I ever need a reversing switch?|
Simple answer with the dewhurst. Remove the handle, shorten it and then refit. No chance now of switching on accidentally and still plenty of leverage to operate the switch.
I would always have a reversing facility as I have no milling machine and require more versatility from the lathe, also an M like yours.
These set ups are a slitting saw on a morse taper milling arbour and on an arbour between centres. Reversing the spindle is essential here as when the work is fed forward into the saw via the cross slide you needs to up cut mill rather than down cut mill as would be the case with spindle running forwards.
Keep the dewhurst Eug. Just wire it in alonside your NVR
|Thread: Harold Halls QCTP|
If he is happy for me to write it up will give it a go,will probably need some advice is there some advice somewhere?
You'll be fine. Write it up, your excellent work looks like the basis for a really interesting article.
I was encouraged to write for MEW by Mr. Alan Hearsum from Derbyshire, a model engineer and long time contributor to MEW and ME magazines.
You will enjoy the experience, its nice to see your work in print and it's also a great feeling when you get paid!!!
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
Thank you and also thanks for the tip, good point.
More pics of progress in due course.
|Thread: Big Ben|
Don't watch much telly but have been getting SWMBO to record one called wheeler dealers on her gadget
Seems to be plenty of them too
There are loads of em Ady, I reckon I've seen em all!
Program inspired me to buy the MR2 and I never thought I would get back into cars again!!!
|Thread: 1947 Jepson engine|
Is there anyone out there ever made this engine, or knows anyone who has?
I have had a good look on the internet and can't find an example anywhere, so it looks like I may be ploughing a lone furrow!!!
The engine first featured in M.E. magazine back in April 1947 as a 2 1/2 page article. That article is now on the John-Tom website. In an earlier post in this thread Jason has given a link to the article.
It is the first steam engine I have ever built and probably not the best choice as I've had problems. I would not recommend this engine as a first build. Having said that I am "getting there", slowly and gradually more surely. The drawings in the article are good but not 100% correct so beware if you are to attempt this engine. I am currently CAD the whole engine as I go along hopefully correcting any issues with the drawings.
The photo shows the engine assembled with the main components, which with good running fits turns over nicely.
I'm not looking for specific help at this stage but I will be in due course, probably when I have to set up the as yet unmade valve gear.
Back to the original question. has anyone ever made this engine?
|Thread: Endmill, Slot Drill|
Thank you all for your responses,
I've done it now, 2 flute, nice and steady 5 thou max cut, clean as whistle.
My original post was perhaps misleading. My concern was not so much accuracy but more the way a 2 flute cutter would react. You could just feel it clipping the gudgeon pin hole but otherwise no problem.
The more I get involved with model engineering the more I enjoy it but there are times when using machinery and you are stepping into the unknown, well it can a little nerve wracking!!!
thanks again geoff
doh!!!!!!!!!! connecting rod not crankshaft.
I have a question. The crosshead shown in the photo is made from cast bronze. It is complete except for the slot which needs to be cut for the small end of the crankshaft. The size of the slot is shown in the drawing 5/16" wide and 1/2" long. My question is what type of cutter is best for this job? I will be holding the work, using a vertical slide and vice using the small fixture (or is it a jig?) to set the gudgeon pin hole vertical.
My thoughts are that as this is a "closed" slot a two flute cutter may not be the most appropriate choice. What do you guys think?
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