Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine|
I've started making this engine, slow progress but always is with me.
When I have the frame assembled I'll post some pics.
Finally managed to get a copy of M.E. 4619, in Halifax of all places. WHS had a few copies, also MEW and EIM.
I was curious Jason as to how you got such a neat radius on the top of the bearing cap. So simple really as shown in photo 15.
Any of you chaps from Halifax, my first visit, a fine town, graceful old market, classic victorian town hall and of course the increasingly famous Piece hall. A beer festival in the latter this weekend, should be fun as long as all behave themselves.
|Thread: reversing gear|
Thanks for your reply.
I was mistaken, as you say, it's 2 and 3 which are rigid and form the bell crank.
With such small parts, I believe the pivot pin is 3/16" diameter, is there a taper pin and taper reamer small enough to pin the parts together? If not I imagine you would use small carpenters moulding pins?
Thank you, I forgot about Keith Appleton, good video.
OK, the pivot pin 5 passes through a hole in the bracket 4.
On one end of the pin is attached the lever 2 and the other end the linkage 1.
By releasing the knurled lock nut 11 you can raise or lower the lever to move sideways "the "part with slot in" 1, to select either forward or reverse rotation of the engine.
As I see it for this mechanism to work 1 and 2 must be rigidly fixed to the pivot pin while the pin is free to pivot in the bracket hole 4?
Assuming I'm correct how are 1 and 2 secured on the pivot pin?
|Thread: A simple oscillating steam engine|
Looking good lainchy post some more info when you can
The spring strength is largely a matter of feel not to strong or there will be to much friction between the oscillating parts. Would be good if you could find somewhere to try a few to get the right feel
Have a look at dodwells posts when you can. From his first simple wobble he has made some really attractive models something for you to aspire to
|Thread: Threaded Norman Toolpost|
Not just me then who dislikes the dickson setup. I guess mine will end up on e ebay in due course.
Seen those pictures before, hadn't noticed there was no split in the holder.
They/it looks well made.
You should make some with an angled tool slot. Very useful gives a little extra reach over the end of the top slide.
I have a Myford / Drummond M type, which uses Norman tool holders
Over the years I have added to the collection and now have 10 tool holders
I think it's a great system easy to swap and change and each one is set so the tool is accurately centered when tightened in place. The only downside is you have no angular indexing, but that's not a problem for me.
Some years ago I bought a second top slide and converted it for a dickson toolpost. I bought the tool post and holders from A & R precision in coventry. They were expensive but really well made. I've used the top slide and dickson set up about 3 or 4 times in all. The whole lot is collecting dust on a shelf. I always use the norman tool holders. I must be one of the few people on here who does not like the dickson set up.
|Thread: double acting oscillating cylinder engine|
Thank you gents for your kind comments and J for the video upload.
Martin, diolch. I've passed through Tan y groes many times on the way to Saundersfoot although not for many years. Will be in porthmadog next month but sadly Tan y groes a little to far south for a visit.
Ron, the J de W drawing to which you refer is indeed a muncaster engine. J de W's Drawing is 2x full size. I redrew the engine with full size dimensions and made it last year. If you would like a pdf copy of the drawing let me know via a p.m. Here is a photo of the completed engine
Well, it's all finished, painted, lacquered, etc. or as Jason would say "tarted up".
The base is an oak lap jointed frame with a briwax finish.
The baseplate is heavy, 150 x 100 x 10mm M.S. plate sprayed with a hycote primer and then lacquered to finish.
The frame, valve block, bearing blocks etc. are primed then two coats of halfords industrial grey enamel and again lacquered to finish.
The flywheel is hand painted with a humbrol primer and enamel.
Video of it running is on you tube, search Bobbie jones muncaster double acting oscillator. Seems to be running really well, good balance.
Hope it's of interest Geoff
Edited By JasonB on 31/07/2019 16:28:06
|Thread: Muncaster's Simple Entablature Engine|
That sounds good, issue 4618. I don't take M.E. mag on a regular basis but as this engine has captured my interest I'll get 4618 when it comes out. Do you know how many issues will cover the whole engine build?
I notice you have deviated from the standard muncaster pedestals. Having the split line on the central bearing and the housing at the same level seems to me a much better arrangement. The muncaster pedestals look unnecessarily complicated and would for me be difficult to make.
I assume you have scaled up the muncaster drawings 1/32" = 1mm which increases the bore size from 3/4" to your "favoured" 24mm.
Yes, looks interesting Jason and like others I welcome the addition of this supplementary build thread.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
As for using Oak on a nicely made scale model the grain is of the open type and can look wrong on a small scaled model, personally I would have used a closer grained wood for appearances and then stain it Oak coloured.
Well I live and learn, I always believed oak, being a hardwood, was a close grained wood.
A quick internet search and I find it is the opposite, open grain as you said in your post.
Having said that I am happy with how it looks and it should blend in well with the colour scheme, dark grey and dark green. I just need to be careful in how I treat it!
Thanks for your comments
Thanks for the tips gents, wire wool probably a bad idea, glad I asked..
Scotchbrite sounds good, I'll go down that route.
By the way, who's George?
Today I completed my first attempt at cladding (or is it cleading) a cylinder casting.
I set the casting up on an arbor and milled a small 1mm step on the inside of both flanges. The hardwood rings which are jb welded to the waist of the cylinder were leveled to the same height in the rotary table arrangement in photo 1.
The oak strips were cut with my new slitting saw and arbor from ARC
All strips super glued in place with the 6mm brass straps secured with 8 ba screws.
Just need to apply a sealing finish to the oak. I thought perhaps briwax applied with wire wool.
|Thread: double acting oscillating cylinder engine|
Julius de waal has been very busy, his drawings are excellent.
His drawings show 24mm bore for the d/a oscillator so bigger than mine which is 20mm.
My engine has a cast iron meehanite type cylinder. I have lapped the bore to a fine finish with 1000 grade paste and oil. The piston is gun metal a little under (.050) 20mm diameter, so an easy fit. I was considering using a viton o ring say 17 bore x 1.5 dia section or 16 bore x 2mm section.
I have read that cast iron is not compatible with this type of ring.
I have some teflon coated yarn 1/8" square which could be another option
Any thoughts or opinions anyone
That has turned out nicely, look forward to a little video when it's all painted and tarted up.
I'll do that Jason and thank you.
Jim the drawing is from a book by Henry Muncaster published in 1912, Model Stationary engines.
The book was reviewed by E.T. Westbury in a series of M.E. articles in 1957. I believe those articles are available online. Sorry I don't have a link but they are easy to google and find.
If you do decide to make this model, let me know. I have a spare cast iron cylinder casting which you can have for postage cost. The casting is from my own pattern. I had two cast in case I c**ked up one.
I am also doing a cad drawing which is upscaled so 1/16" = 2mm so the 5/8" bore is 20mm and the 1" stroke is 32mm etc etc.
Last year I made the simple muncaster oscillator, which I enjoyed very much.
I seem to have been working on this for ages but with the recent pee awful weather I found myself spending more time in workshop and finally got it running. Only on air and it's a very loose fit, no piston ring, no seals in end caps or stuffing box and with the port face still to be lapped up to the valve block, it's a little "hissy".
Scaled up a little from original so 1/16" = 2mm which makes handling and machining a little easier.
It's been good fun and about 85% there. Would like to oak clad the cylinder and of course paint to finish. Hope it's of interest Geoff
|Thread: Blued metal cleading|
Mmmm yes a handsome engine Rik
Some engines just catch the eye; your own design?
I like the flywheel/ drive pulley arrangement, also the bespoke oiler on the big end.
The cleading looks good as well
I'll call it cleading as I suspect people who call it cladding don't care what it's called, the other way round I'm not so sure?
|Thread: New vice, good choice?|
That's another thing that I found attractive the compact design.
A vice with a long screw would take up more or less the full length of the milling table.
I have a big chunky aero engine body to machine. This vice will be A1 for the job.
David, your vice, very nice work. I assume it was made during your time as an apprentice.
Well after much indecision I finally bought the new milling vice and settled on a screwless type shown in the photo.
Have to say I wasn't sure about this type of vice but there have been some positive reviews on here so I took the plunge and bought one.
Initial impressions are very good. A good size for the SX2P, it takes a little time getting used to the procedures for adjustment and tightening but once you do it's really simple to use. This one has a 63 mm wide jaw and 1/4 turn of the 6mm. allen key gives a powerful grip on the work with no jaw lift.
It's similar to the ones sold by arc, and a bit more expensive. The relief at either end, is a feature I liked and which makes for an easy longitudinal setting on the table. It came from Germany, but was made in china, like many are!
|Thread: Myford/ Drummond M Type chuck back plate.|
Thanks for the replies.
I get it now, I understand.
The possibility of backlash puzzled me but I can see that as long there is pressure on each jaw that will be enough to take up the backlash.
Very interesting, as I said earlier never seen it before. I have an old 3 jaw which could benefit from a regrind. May try it sometime
thanks again Geoff
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