Here is a list of all the postings geoff walker 1 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: New vice, good choice?|
That's another thing that I found attractive the compact design.
A vice with a long screw would take up more or less the full length of the milling table.
I have a big chunky aero engine body to machine. This vice will be A1 for the job.
David, your vice, very nice work. I assume it was made during your time as an apprentice.
Well after much indecision I finally bought the new milling vice and settled on a screwless type shown in the photo.
Have to say I wasn't sure about this type of vice but there have been some positive reviews on here so I took the plunge and bought one.
Initial impressions are very good. A good size for the SX2P, it takes a little time getting used to the procedures for adjustment and tightening but once you do it's really simple to use. This one has a 63 mm wide jaw and 1/4 turn of the 6mm. allen key gives a powerful grip on the work with no jaw lift.
It's similar to the ones sold by arc, and a bit more expensive. The relief at either end, is a feature I liked and which makes for an easy longitudinal setting on the table. It came from Germany, but was made in china, like many are!
|Thread: Myford/ Drummond M Type chuck back plate.|
Thanks for the replies.
I get it now, I understand.
The possibility of backlash puzzled me but I can see that as long there is pressure on each jaw that will be enough to take up the backlash.
Very interesting, as I said earlier never seen it before. I have an old 3 jaw which could benefit from a regrind. May try it sometime
thanks again Geoff
Never seen this before, interesting.
Would I be right to say that clover plate has to made extremely accurately for it to do the job.
I.E. the four outer must be precisely positioned around the inner hole both in angular setting and P.CD.
This will ensure that each jaw exerts equal pressure on the plate when the jaws are closed and set for grinding.
Looks tricky to me, how did you make it
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Nice work. I've just had a look on you tube to see this engine running ( Stewart Harts model)
It certainly captures your interest, I can see why you made it.
Lovely slow runner, I'm sure yours will run just as well.
Does it have conventional type slide valves in the valve block or are they a piston type valve.
Excellent work Brian, once again I find myself hugely impressed by the attention to detail which you have Brian and many other modellers on this site. Well done Geoff
|Thread: Replacement Type cross slide nut.|
Hi Thanks David,
That makes sense, the tap is just skimming out a small amount to finish to size
Keep Posting on this, I will be interested to see your set up for removing the threads on the cross slide.
Is the tap made from silver steel?
Yes, nice work David,
After 70 years the threads in my M type are wearing thin.
I really need to do what you have done.
I find it hard to see how you get the tap through the bronze but clearly you have.
Did you you screw cut say 3/4 deep and then finish with the tap?
Even so I would have thought it takes a lot force to complete cutting the thread with the tap.
I notice the square head on the tap is large, around 3/4" square?
Well done again Geoff
|Thread: Drummond type m|
In reply to your last post, no the roller bearing is not a replacement.
The caged ball bearing you have would be standard for your lathe, an early M type.
Davids mod is for the later M types 1925 to early 50's and not suitable for your machine.
The later M types had the improved main bearings with the thrust bearing at the rear but did suffer from end float of the spindle.
This can be mostly eliminated with the mod david suggests or an alternative approach by adding an additional thrust bearing at the left hand end of the spindle. The latter approach may be possible on your machine.
Keith Robinson (52kr) currently has a some parts for sale on ebay.
Like David I have also bought parts of him.
Just keep your eye open on ebay plus other sites for spares.
Any problems you may have with restoration just let us know, there are a few guys on here with M types and we have all been through the restoration process.
|Thread: cylinder end cap|
No big deal this but as you guys were kind enough to offer advice I thought I would show the results.
Jobs a good 'un, thanks again Geoff
Many thanks for all your replies, very useful. Would have replied sooner but we had a tribal tsunami (aka the grand kids) last night so not much time for internet chat!
Yes I was thinking probably have to get it roughly round then bond the plate in place and as Rod said "creep up" on it and take by surprise.
Will use the tailstock for support. I like Davids idea of using a shallow counterbore.
I'll have a go in the week and report back
Big T again to all Geoff
I have a piece of BMS plate 1/8" thick and using it I want to make a cylinder end cap.
The cap needs to be 34mm O/dia and have a spigot 20mm dia and 1mm long to fit the cylinder bore.
Any ideas on how to hold and machine.
I have an idea but thought I would ask first to see if anyone has a better idea.
|Thread: M type lathe tumbler reverse|
Looks finished now David, except for the painting.
Assume the gears are ok, whole job very professional.
I used the grub screw method to hold it together while fitting the taper pin, GMTA?
Completed mine about 9 years ago, same patterns used for the castings as yours.
Here is an archive picture.
Nice work David,
I admire your methods and attention to detail.
I suspect this will be the most accurate T.R. ever made!!!
|Thread: Soba rotary table|
New table, that's good news. Glad I was of help.
I've had mine nearly a year and have used it a lot.
It was only in the last month that I realised the main gear had 47 teeth.
If you remove the base it reveals the worm and gear arrangement and after several counts I finally accepted 47!!!!.
I'm looking to buy another larger one 4-5" diameter but this time will take advice first.
|Thread: M type lathe tumbler reverse|
Excellent work, nice castings!!!!!
|Thread: Tool Post Milling/Drilling Attachment|
Nice set up that, I like what you have done.
You and Nick have also got me thinking. I have used this set up for years on my M type but now I have the seig mill I never use it.
With not too much trouble I guess I could retain the V/S, turn the potts through 90 degrees and mount the parvalux over the top.
We shall see, thanks to both for posting your work, very interesting.
|Thread: Rear toolpost for M Type Drummond lathe|
I've Still got a few castings left if anyone is interested.
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