Here is a list of all the postings Nathan Sharpe has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Moving a heavy lathe|
Fizzy, I moved my L5 on a trailer 360 miles, used multiple scaffold boards and supported them with axle stands. I then used the trailers manual winch to haul it on board using rollers made from old 2" galv pipe. I had some help from the seller but handled it mostly alone including the off load and positioning. If you have help you should manage it without too much sweat. Avoid dismantling if at all possible!! Trailer was a car transporter borrowed from a mate.
|Thread: MCB Types|
Neil , I just upgraded to all RCBO apart from submains so I have loads of MCB,s spare. If I have the correct amperage rating you,re welcome to them. Just PM me.
Edit. Should have said they are all Crabtree Starbreaker.
Edited By Nathan Sharpe on 02/12/2014 23:04:27
Edit. Should also say that my RCBO,s and bigger consumer unit came from TLC so can recommend them.
Edited By Nathan Sharpe on 02/12/2014 23:06:47
|Thread: 28 or 30 tpi x 1/8" thread. Any ideas?|
Have you tried Janikas music store on Ebay? Looks like they have a good selection of trapeze tailpieces. I have bought from them and am happy enough with their service/quality.
|Thread: 3 Phase Motor HP?|
As an edit to my 2nd post I,ll change the wattage figure for the converter from 1100W to 1500W, apologies.
The very quick calc is one I was given by an instructor at Maddon generators more years ago than I care to remember and is the one I,ve used at work to calculate the generated output required to start a motor of any size (3PH) from a mobile/portable Genset--- works for me--- for the previous 35 years. Just use Ohms law to apply it to motor Wattage.
I do agree that the L1 figure is "iffy" but is probably correct given that the inverter is driving L2/L3 through capacitors. Small changes of capacitor values serving L2/L3 would give more balance to the circuit.
Doing the calc L1+L2+L3 in running Watts= 776 W, so given the motor/winding temp 1100/1300 W is somewhere very close.
The motor/winding temp will fall with better phase balance.
Do the calc, Total V(L1+L2+L3) divided by Total A (L1+L2+L3) This also puts you somewhere close.
There will always be variation due to temp and stopping/starting a motor during testing will always make it worse as the motor does not dissipate start up heat until it,s been run for a while.
Edited By Nathan Sharpe on 13/09/2012 23:39:34
You could of course ignore my previous post and look at the obvious, it,s running on your 2hp(1100w) converter !! Why didn,t I do that?
Quick and dirty way of working it out from the under ower figures posted:
Multiply highest voltage by highest amperage = approx watts that winding, mutiply that by 3, multiply that by 0,8 .That should be accurate enough for most purposes. I figure it at about 1.1 to 1.3 Kw.
|Thread: Help to trace old article|
I may have asked this question before but need to ask it again because I have no idea where I saved the info (getting old!!).
Some years ago in ME a short series of articles dealing with the memories of an apprentice? at Greenwich/Woolwich arsenals was published. In one of these articles my father was mentioned.
I have no "history" of him and only knew him for the 14 years between my birth and his death.
Can anyone help? I thought I had the relevant magazines but can't find them.
The articles where probably published in the 1980/1995 era but I,m not sure of the date or the authors name.
Any help anyone? Thanks.
|Thread: What steel to use|
While not quite on topic but still a "materials" point, I emailed CES today and had my mail intercepted by "Spamarrest". They asked me to verify my email address before me email would be forwarded to CES. Anyone else had this happen? I will delete the email and phone them instead.
|Thread: is there a more viscous silver solder?|
Hey Springbok, never mind the silver solder or tippex, tell us more about the sec,s photocopied derriere!! I can still find the required coordinates without needing a photocopy or marking that area!!
|Thread: Parting Tools|
Thanks for the reply. As I,m sure you do I believe that no system fits all jobs and it was never my intention to stop using inserted tip tooling,only to try and reduce costs. My thoughts were that as diameter of work increases then depth of parting blade should also increase. I can use a 5/8" blade for 2" work so how far can I go with a 3/4" blade ? The Mircona system is what I,ve been looking at, as you say it is costly but could save money in the long term. BTW how's the four legged white sausage?
Do any of you know wether the parting tool blades sold by RDG/Chronos/Arceurotrade etc are bevel ground or parallel ground?
I,ve only ever used genuine Eclipse blades but may have to consider imports as far as my finances (SWMBO) are concerned>
|Thread: Can someone identify this collet please|
I may be wrong but I use DA 180 collets which are cross referenced I think as DK 18. Try a search for DA 200. Mine are , as Neil suggested, Erickson collets.
|Thread: Parting Tools|
Good evening ,
Your collective opinions and advice are requested on choice and range of parting tools and parting systems. I have various inserted tip tools and parting blade tools already in use. Up to about 2" I favour the Eclipse type of tool (machined bevel not hollow ground) and above that Iscar and Sandvic using a centre grooved insert. Given the current state of the UK,s finances and my own, I'm wondering if I should cut back on the inserted tip tooling and stick to Eclipse. Tips are expensive even from Ebay, Eclipse are at least nominally British. What diameter would you part off with using an Eclipse tool and where would you decide an inserted tip tool is required? My lathe is a Harrison L5 in good condition and has been used so far with a maximum LxD of 4.5" x 12" in PB and cast iron, but only turned to finished diameter and then cut to length before re machining. If you favour Eclipse type tooling what blade size would you suggest for 2" to 4" work? The workshop is mainly used for hobby work with the very occasional "earner".
Thanks , Nathan
|Thread: Turned items are not looking good ...|
Hi Bob, Just as a follow up to what you were told was not in the handbook, on page 13a are the instructions to adjust the clutch, the HEADSTOCK bearings and saddle,cross slide and top slide. There are several pages of recommended lathe practice for turning between centres,faceplate and chuck work,taper turning screw cutting and tool geometry. In my view it,s worth every penny it cost. I doubt that you can learn it all from the book but it,s somewhere to start the process. Those who say there is no info in them must only have looked at pictures!!
Hi Bob, Yes that photo is the one but I also wonder if your speed is too low. It,s also possible that you have a bit nasty metal in the chuck ! As Neil said you won,t get fine tuning info from the handbook but you will get speeds/ feeds/tool geometry and exploded drawings showing how things go together .
What are you cutting with and are you sure its sharp enough? The finish looks as though material is being torn out not cut . Resharpen and try again, we,ve all had to do that and it helps to gain experience .
Hi Bob, If you need a handbook/partslist go to www.lathes.co.uk. Tony has quite a bit of info onsite
and sells a handbook for the L5. My own L5 is about 1960 vintage and works well, they are pretty bombproof if looked after . All the above advice is good but keep asking questions until you/we solve the problems. It sounds to me like you are cutting below centre and light cuts. Set the tool height by removing the chuck, fitting a good sharp centre in the headstock spindle and setting the tool to the point of the centre. Once you,ve done that and before removing the centre make a height gauge to sit on the bedways for future tool setting. It need not be anything fancy but must be accurate.
|Thread: bending 4mm copper tubing|
Hi Clive, Have you tried a brake pipe bender? Cheap off ebay.
|Thread: Cylinder Boring Techniques for Steam Engines|
Hi Clive and Will,
Please keep this thread going in public, I can't be alone in finding it both informative and fascinating. It seems to cover my main interest, an interest from years ago which I'm trying to afford and an interest in bee keeping with the aim of supplementing my winter income!! I'm also learning a heck of a lot !! Like you Clive I prefer the L1A1 and it's 7.62mm round, 223 just feels too light. Like you Will I need the help of people like Clive and others who always offer advice and encouragement.
I hope the knee allows you better mobility Will but spend your cash on materials not ice screws, I and my son have spent a fortune over the years on ice/rock/hill gear but my favourite bit of kit is a 1970s Stubai ice screw now used as a corkscrew!!
|Thread: This website is working very slow today, Anyone else having problems?|
No problems here. Upload and download speeds within what BT expect for this line using their speedchecker, same results using BB Genie. I,m approx 4K from the exchange,using a BT hub and running Vista Premium. It takes on average 1.3 seconds per page change. Weather here has been wet for weeks(North Wales at 300mtr elevation), no protection from prevailing wind/rain for our pole mounted connection and the connection cabinets from here down are all road fitted chambers with rainwater rivers flowing over and around them!! Last time we had a problem it was sorted within 18 hrs and was caused by the one Grey Squirrel left in the area chewing the cables to the post mounted box!!
BT have served us well over the last 33 years of our use of them.
|Thread: Not fit for purpose|
One of the very basic skills of engineering is the ability to read and interpret a drawing. This means using eyes and brain to pick out problems before you hit them. Yes we are generally amateurs and work to drawings done by other amateurs but we took up the hobby to produce something we could be at least happy with and learn something as we did it.
Given that most problems with the drawings have been encountered by other amateurs the best advice is the oldest advice" join a local club/group" and use their accumulated expertise.
As already posted even the most up to date industrial/commercial drawings WILL contain errors/omissions and mistakes.Try reading the drawings for a hospital's M+E and you would need six months to find the potential problems, do you complain about OS Mapping/Road Atlases/Satnav Mapping because they are not accurate (even the day after survey)? No, you do not, because these are things that you accept are only going to to be upgraded and amended from time to time. The same applies to Model Engineering drawings, but the CAREFUL and SKILLFUL engineer will do their research before buying drawings. They will have joined the club/usenet group/looked at other Mod Eng sites before spending money??
Model Engineering is for expanding your skill and enjoyment not to guarantee a 100% build without any problems. If you want a 100% guarantee of build first time either stick to Airfix or do nothing would be my advise.
Drawings are and always have been a guide only, they are fit for that purpose, YOU have to provide the skill. If you can't is it you who's not "fit for purpose"?.
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