Here is a list of all the postings Clive B has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Small Carronade model - 68 pdr.|
Nice model Mick. A carronade is on my list of things I'd like to make. Where are you getting the rope eyes from?
|Thread: Hand files for aluminium|
Thanks for all the helpful replies. The Millenicut files sound as if they will do the job. I see that they are available with straight or curved teeth - what would be the advantages of one versus the other?
I'm looking for a files that are specifically designed for aluminium alloys but haven't had much luck finding one - anybody know of a source in the UK? I'm getting a bit fed up with clogging my normal files up - I'm familiar with using copper pipe, or chalk to mitigate clogging of the file - but I gather that specific files are available. I see that ARC sell "lead float" files but these look a bit coarse to me. Anyone used those on aluminium?
|Thread: Jones .605 Glow engine|
Keith, The engine looks terrific; well done! Maybe you can post a video of it running?
P.S. Really like your Chenery Vee twin also. Might finish mine one day!
|Thread: Picador Type Drill Grinding Jig Modifications|
Hi Marcus, Recently I acquired a genuine Picador jig which came without instructions. I haven't used it yet so I'd be really grateful if you would PM me the instructions.
|Thread: 10 inch Mortar Scale Model|
Excellent job Richard. Where was the picture of the original taken? Looking forward to some pics of your RML.
Thanks for the additional photos. I'd like to see a photo or two when it's finished and painted. I intend to screw the parts of the bed together on mine. I am sure there must be a way to machine the fillets for the trunnions - I just haven't figured out how just yet!
That's a very nice model. I'd be very interested in more photos showing how the bed goes together and how you made/fitted the fillets next to the trunnions, these look very neat in the photos.
I am part way through a build of a 1;16 scale model of a 13 inch Victorian era land service mortar which will utilise a slightly later design of bed than yours. It's in brass as it's just a mantelpiece project (non-firing):-
Mick - I like your Jerry Howell cannon. I found the drawings to be pretty good, although I can't comment on their accuracy/authenticity. Here's my version at 1:20 scale:-
|Thread: Problem With Corrosion Of Stainless Steel|
I am sure that passivation will help. If you want to try it yourself, there is an easy to follow guide on passivating stainless steels using a citric acid/caustic soda (sodium hydroxide) three step process. I used this to passivate 303 stainless (another free machining grade containing sulphur) for some components for my home brew boiler/mash tun, Not seen any corrosion - although I know that doesn't prove anything!
Exposed sulphides in FM grades can act as initiation sites for corrosion (apparently, according to the article) and the citric acid must be removing the sulphur as you can smell it (hence the need for a final rinse in caustic).
|Thread: Atom Minor Mk III|
Jorgo, Thanks for your suggestion, what type of glowplug could you recommend?
I've posted a short video of the engine running on YouTube, if anyone's interested!
Initially I noticed a slight leakage in the crankcase - some sealant cured that (I used hylomar blue - perhaps someone could suggest a better sealant?)
Fuel supply - as stated on my first post, the fuel feed needed some fettling to avoid flooding (thanks for comments Trevor).
Other than that, very patient adjustment of the carb needle and air shutter to find the "working envelope". I did make a small mod to the carb re the position of the needle seating in the venturi; not sure if this really helped but this mod will be specific to this design of carb. If you're interested I can send you a sketch. Incidently the needle in the original drawing is not tapered enough.
I tried Easy Start but this didn't make any difference.
I tried measuring the compression with a car type gauge but I think that the volume of air inside the gauge itself led to misleadingly low readings for an engine of this small size (6cc).
A cold garage probably didn't help matters.
The cylinder and piston are both cast iron.
Best of luck!
Thanks Andrew and Jeff. Please forgive me a dumb question (I am new to building ic engines), but can I run the methanol mix using the existing spark ignition or will it be better off with a glowplug? Clive
Thank you Fred and Richard for your kind comments. The castings were from Woking Precision just before they were taken over by Hemingway. These castings were fine, although I made the cylinder head from round bar stock and didn’t use the casting for the contact breaker assembly. I believe that there was an article in ME on the design of a higher compression head for this engine so that it could run on glow fuel (methanol), might give this a try! There seem to be pros and cons for castor oil, perhaps a mix of synthetic/castor would be pragmatic if not after the highest levels of performance? Oh, and I’ll try to avoid standing in front of the exhaust! Clive
After initially resisting all attempts to make it start, my recently completed Atom Minor Mk III finally burst into life; most satisfying! This is my first ic engine. I think the main issue was (and still partially is) the fuel feed which works on a simple suction principle – I have the initial level of the fuel at the same height as the jet in the carb. Anyone know if there is a better way?
The ignition timing could probably be optimised, I am using a Hall sensor and CDi module.
Also, can anyone advise on the best mixture of fuel to oil for this two stroke? I am currently using Aspen two stroke which has a 50:1 ratio; Westbury recommended a ratio with a lot more oil in it – but I guess that was in the days before synthetic oils.
|Thread: Napolionic cannon|
Rod, You might find the following thread useful; it provides a summary of original references to carriage/gun designs and scale drawings http://www.napoleon-series.org/cgi-bin/forum/archive2010_config.pl?md=read;id=122454. Some of these references are available as reprints from DP&G Publications, http://www.military-naval-history.co.uk/. Regards, Clive
|Thread: High Speed Steel?|
You can purchase 6.5mm x 200mm HSS from CTC Tools, but they only seem to sell this size in packs of 5. By coincidence I have also been trying to source long pieces of HSS for woodturning tools.
|Thread: Workshop thermal gloves- advice please|
I use this type of woven nylon gloves, available from many other suppliers:-
Available in a range of sizes, they are slightly stretchy giving a close fit. Thin enough to be able to feel what you are doing and thick enough to take the chill away (maybe not for sub-zero temperatures) . The pvc dotting improves the grip and works surprisingly well. Last for ages, much better than cotton gloves and relatively cheap.
|Thread: WARCO WM-250 lathe family and WM16 mill - 001|
I have a question with respect to power feeds on the wm-16. Warco haven't had any in stock for a long, long time. I see that Toolco (in the UK) offer something that looks very similar, has anyone attemped to fit one to a Wm-16? Alternatively I am minded to try adapting the type of power feed that fits on the Warco Major mill/drill (or Aximnster ZX series). Has anyone any experience in doing this and is it straightforward?
Rik, On my machine (Warco WM-16, circa 2006) the measurement from the underside of the base casting to the underside of the table itself is 90mm. However, do you mean to the underside of the handwheel (45mm), or the flange at the end of the table (73mm)? Just interested in what you need the measurement for.
I have the WM-250 also, and would be very interested to hear what others have done to their machines.
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