Here is a list of all the postings Roderick Jenkins has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
Well, that's a shame. Please don't be a stranger for too long.
|Thread: Gibraltar Toolpost|
The Gibralter Toolpost is also detailed in Tubal Cain's book "Simple Workshop Devices"
|Thread: A few newbie questions, sorry|
I think best practise is to have the faces with the bolt holes mating. On 4 jaw (independent) chucks the bolt holes are towards the middle which means that a smaller backplate than the chuck diameter can be used. With the 3 jaw chuck the bolt holes have to be around the periphery to avoid the scroll. The caveat is that this applies to screw on chucks.
|Thread: What started your interest?|
I started making musical instruments as a hobby in my twenties. I then thought I would get a lathe to make some musical instrument making tools. It was just a downward spiral from then on...
|Thread: Any other bowmakers on here?|
I drilled the hole for the screw on my bows by poking the stick down the headstock and rotating it held in a self-centering 4 jaw chuck. However, my bows didn't have a camber. At what stage do you bend your sticks?
I see that Mimusops seems to more generally known by the name of Manikara these days. It was definitely sold to me as Beefwood and I see that one of the common names for the Manikara Huberi is the Cow Tree so it would not seem unreasonable that it produces Beefwood - such is the timber trade. You can only really go by the botanical name if you want to accurately know what you are buying - even if they do keep changing those
I've been away from the internet in Mull for the last week or so and have come late to the discussion. I've made a few "historical " bows in the past to go with the Viols and Baroque style violins and violas that I had a go at making. These bows were rather less sophisticated than the modern Tourte bow with a simpler frog and a positive camber caused by the hair tension which, in the case of the viol bows, is adjusted while playing using the fingers in an underhand grip. Although Snakewood seemed to be the go to wood for earlier bows I could never justify the expense - this bow was made from Partridgewood.
I used to buy my tonewood from Maurice Bouette at the Newark school. I never met him but used to receive charming hand written letters discussing my requirements. Some years (decades really!) ago I was buying some supplies at Timberline. They reckoned that many modern bows were made from Beefwood (Mimusops Huberi) and sold me two baulks of the stuff for a very reasonable price compared with Pernambuco. It's a bit denser than Pernambuco and a bit darker but produces a nice shiny finish with wet'n'dry.
Nice to have you aboard,
|Thread: Cast iron - 160mm dia|
Comparing the material properties may be interesting but I suspect that the real reason is that c.i. can be easily cast with a nice boss on the back.
|Thread: Easy Button Die Storage Solution|
Worked for me for the last 20 years
|Thread: Clock Domes (and display cases)|
Interesting link. Thanks,
|Thread: Is CAD for Me?|
As far as I understand it, Fusion 360 is free to home users and start up companies and there is no time limit. While I understand the suspicions of some that this free availability is just a ruse to drag you in to the Autodesk fold before starting to charge but there is an alternative view that Autodesk know that home users will not stump up the money for a full commercial product so they have nothing to loose.
Fusion 360 is very much based on a 2D drawing model: Draw the plan in 2D and extrude the plan to make the 3D shape. As has been mentioned before, Paul McWhorter takes you through these steps very simply in his YouTube videos **LINK**
Whatever happens to the future of Fusion 360 or Alibre ( it does has a chequered history) I don't think any effort invested in these programs will be wasted since the overall concepts are the same.
|Thread: WT2527 15cc Glow Engine|
Excellent, very nicely done.
|Thread: Myford/ Drummond M Type chuck back plate.|
I don't think the clover plate needs to be made with extreme accuracy: It just needs to resist sufficient pressure to ensure that each jaw is firmly seated against the scroll, taking up the backlash.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread 2019|
Very nice. Looking forward to a video of it going.
|Thread: Minnie 1"|
I don't know if you are aware but I believe it is usual these days to use some oversize rivets on the firebox sides to act as anchors for the horn cheeks. This photo from Jason's album shows what I mean
High vacuum diffusion pumps used to use large volumes of mercury. There were regular stories ( all apocryphal I'm sure ) about people trying to steal some from our establishment and being caught by security on the exit gate. They usually involved a push bike frame being filled with mercury and then being dropped and being too heavy to pick up or the bike falling apart because the mercury had dissolved the spelter joining the lugs to the tubes.
|Thread: Is CAD for Me?|
+1 for Paul McWhorter **LINK**. The problem I used to have with various 3D CAD programs was determining where I was in the drawing space. Fusion 360 made that very straightforward and I've gotten by but just watching the first couple of Mr McWhorter's videos has taught me loads about making the whole process easier.
Edited By JasonB on 04/06/2019 16:06:56
|Thread: Warrington Model Engineering Developments|
|Thread: Cast iron dust , is it really that bad for lathe beds.|
Neither would I add steel, brass, aluminium, chocolate sprinkles or ice cream. The skin on castings can consist of chilled iron and moulding sand, both of which are harder than other swarfs and best cleaned up fairly quickly but the inside of an iron casting or meeanite are pretty benign. I just clear up and oil when the job is finished. My Myford is still accurate enough after 30 odd years of tool and model making.
Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 02/06/2019 17:38:38
|Thread: What are you using for Lathe Way Oil?|
I use a straight 30 engine oil as recommended in my Myford handbook.
|Thread: Colchester Lathe Factory|
Sounds like the dulcet tones of William Franklyn, the ubiquitous voice over sound of my youth.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.