Here is a list of all the postings Roderick Jenkins has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
I think the whole thing has been put up by the manufacturers of thin spanners
Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 04/12/2019 17:01:31
|Thread: Myford Super 7 Metric thread cutting gears|
Hmm. Jesper's pictures seems to show a manual for the later type of gearbox as well as having the later plate in the cover. The 1680 gearbox is the same as retro-fitted to my S7. How can we determine which gearbox Jesper actually has?
Edit. I've just had a look at Tony's Lathes site and I see that 1956 was the year of change to the newer style gear box. Could Jesper's be some form of transitional box , old externals but new internals?
Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 24/11/2019 23:25:16
My best guess is that the gearbox is a later addition to the lathe, it certainly looks similar to the gearbox on my S7. If this is the case then the 33/34 T system will work.. The gears are available from RGD **LINK**
This table shows the actual pitch of threads that can be made with this arrangement:
|Thread: Tools for Super 7|
On my S7 I now use ccgt tips for 90% of my turning. The exceptions are rough interrupted cuts or large reductions in diameter.
|Thread: new computer|
By coincidence we got a new PC yesterday. We had a local company put it together according to our requirements. The only fancy work on it is Fusion 360 so that gave the base spec. Desktop case and a horizontal CD drive. The company cloned our existing C drive to an SSD. It's all pretty whizzy now. There is also a 1Tb hdd and several external drives for backup.
|Thread: Blimey! It's never straightforward...|
I hadn't done any 3D printing for a couple of months. So, I fire up Cura and, as usual, download the latest version (4 in this case). I started printing something but after about 5 minutes the PLA filament stopped feeding and broke. Right, I thought, the filamant is old, I'll get some new stuff. Same problem. OK, we'll try a new hot end. Same problem. Close scrutiny of the filament end showed tell tale marks from the drive splines - it seems to be reversing. Go back to Cura 3 and problem solved. After about 1/2 hour the print separated from the bed. I've tried everything I know but the nice new black filament will not stick. I go back to the old filament. Success! Great adhesion, so much so that when I separated this print it brought half the glass bed with it:
I had a spare.
Anyway, this idea from Neil's book worked very nicely.
Still can't get the new black filament to stick though
|Thread: Doncaster ME show|
It's all to do with a VE day celebration
|Thread: M8x1 left hand tap.|
Looks like they could actually be 5/16 x 24 (UNF).
|Thread: Myford Bull Wheel Indexing|
Something like this:
Came with the lathe when I got it. As did this indexing arm:
The pivot slips rather tidily onto the reversible thread/fine feed stud. Of course, if you have a gearbox it is unlikely that you will have many change wheels! (Mine did since it was a conversion, the gearbox was a later addition). I don't think the idea was ever completed, it needs a spring or something similar to keep the detent engaged. It's quite a neat idea though.
My toolpost mill is very convenient to mount and I have been considering a similarly quick and convenient way to do simple indexing rather than mount my GHT HDA. This solution is based on Harold Hall's design **LINK** except I have made the base a permanent feature, that still allows the headstock cover to shut on to the buffers. The indexer slides onto a T slot and is secured by half a turn of the locking lever.
The detent spring is pretty strong, hence the big knob. The traditional coloured dots are for 4, 6 and 10 divisions.
|Thread: Annealing Chinese Machine Tooling?|
I needed to cut a thread on the end of an ER11 parallel shank collet holder when using it as a spindle in my home made tool post miller. This was too hard to thread with carbide inserts so I warmed up the non-collet end with a torch until it was somewhat hotter than blue but not glowing red and let it cool. Cutting the thread was fine after this treatment. I did wrap some wet rag around the shank to try and stop too much heat getting to the collet end.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
I've been logging all my mistakes and cock-ups over on ModelEngineMaker under the Tangler pseudonym.
|Thread: Home Made "Inserts" -Feelin' Groovy.|
This is Len Mason's take on a small parting and grooving tool in "Using The Small Lathe":
I've just used mine to cut grooves for 3mm E clips
You do need to make sure that the hacksaw blades are solid HSS not Flex Bi-metal.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
I've been getting on with my Farm Boy. These are some of the governor bits:
|Thread: Bending Rolls|
Very nicely finished. Mine aren't nearly as nice.
|Thread: Further Adventures with the Sieg KX3 & KX1|
My stupid machine won't play with the computers any more. I HATE RS232
|Thread: Cheapskate Sandblaster|
Actually, I've given up using a pressure washer on the patio. I find "Patio Magic" more effective, longer lasting and much easier. I had to go and find the Karcher in the loft.
Yup. That's what happens on the beach round here.
At £4.75 for a large bag of sand ( c 25kg) the loss is not great. I used about a kilo to do the con rod and my steel fabrication.
This is a messy method. The con rod was held down on the patio with a welly clad foot for blasting and there is wet sand everywhere but the garden can cope with that. As for the texture, I can just feel that the surface is not silky smooth but is more uniform than the machining marks left from the milling.
I've been doing some really crap welding with a basic Parkside buzz box that I was given (I will not show this, it is too embarrassing ). The blaster made a decent job of cleaning off the fuming and much of the discoloration, thereby emphasising all the slag inclusions. I guess one could try a different medium but I'm not really up for spreading £50 of wet garnets over the garden.
I have no other requirement for a noisy compressor so this system will do for me.
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