Member postings for Roderick Jenkins

Here's my pallet of Kingspan, nominally 50mm. A few are 40mm, which have gone on the party wall and there was one at 60 which has gone on the ceiling.

It's been quite awkward moving around the kit but the weather has been benign so most of the cutting has been done outside.

Two walls and the ceiling finished so far, with much help from my glamorous assistant ( Mrs J)

The softwood ply came from my neighbourhood bargain DIY store at 12.95 a sheet - Fairly crappy and It feels a bit damp but I guess it will dry if I keep the doors open. They delivered 20 sheets for £5. The Kingspan has been fitted between 50mm square battens screwed to the wall and fitted between the ceiling rafters (or are they joists?).

Cheers,

Rod

The alternative is perhaps like these.

Rod

To get back to the original question...

As far as I can make out, the "laydown" bit simply refers to the tip lying flat like a ccmt tip rather than on one edge like a parting tip. Am I right?

Rod

I used some Loctite 5990 **LINK** to seat the valve inserts and head.

HTH,

Rod

Does anybody have any experience of this stuff ? Seems like a U bargain. My bargain pallet of Kingspan is likely to be a bit scrappy so an extra vapour barrier could be useful.

Cheers,

Rod

I've got a Sharp MkII without a quill. I don't have a problem drilling holes down to 1mm using the rising table. Not as convenient as having a quill but certainly not a show stopper. I do have a substantial bench drill as well, though.

HTH,

Rod

Where is the drooling emoji?

We tend to make bread in our Panasonic from various mixtures of wholemeal, rye and spelt.  A teaspon of dough improver from Claybrookmill/Lakeland makes a big difference to the rise and consistency of the product.

HTH,

Rod

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 25/09/2018 10:00:17 (sorry, I can't make the link work)

Edited By Roderick Jenkins on 25/09/2018 10:04:22

There's a Canadian bar in a French alpine resort I frequent where the weakest beer available is 5.5%. All the others are 8%+. I remember a pundit opining that making a good tasting beer was easy at 5% but making a great tasting beer at 3.5%, like Brakespears, was where the real skill lies. Fortunately for me, Ringwood brewery is now just down the road and Badger ( I'm particulary fond of Fursty Ferret - pity about the name) is not far away.

Rod

Jason, thanks, I hadn't considered that. And thank you everybody else for your experiences. It all helps balance the cost/effort/effectiveness equation in this benign ( if possibly slightly salty) climate down here on the south coast.

Cheers,

Rod

OK. I've done some sums. Celotex/Kingspan is certainly the way forward. Concrete block / 50mm Kingspan / 11mm OSB gives me a U of 0.4 which is poor compared with a new build wall requirement of 0.16 but not too bad compared to a refurbishment which the regs seem to allow to be 0.3 to 0.55 (if I understand it correctly).

I've bought a pallet (25 sheets) of 50mm Kingspan seconds from these people **LINK** for £432 delivered which should do the job. I'll keep you posted.

Rod

Ian,

No problem at all. My moving situation is very similar to yours. I just managed to take some pics of the garage before the removal guys filled it with my stuff. I'm doing some comparative U value calcs at the moment - I'll report back in due course.

Cheers,

Rod

We have just moved to sunny Christchurch in Dorset. The new workshop is considerably bigger than my last home, being 5m x 5m.

The plan is to replace the up and over door with a 2/3 1/3 side hinged door.. The walls are single skin, mostly concrete block but with a brick front, semi detached on one side - all painted now. Reading the various threads on the forum have led me to plan to batten the walls and infill with 25 mm polystyrene, then use a polythene vapour barrier and line out with OSB painted white. I'm less clear on what to do with the ceiling. I'm currently inclined to go with Celotex (or similar) fastened to the rafters (thus making use of the reflective surface to enhance lighting). I understand that It would be a good idea to ventilate the area between the Celotex and the roof boards - how would I go about this? Any other comments on the scheme would be most welcome.

Cheers,

Rod

I seem to be one of those people who are particularly sensitive to bitter flavours. I find many craft beers (and sprouts!) far too bitter for my taste - there seems to be something of a competition for hipsters to make beers as bitter as possible. A nice , malty pint of best for me. I was brought up on Wadsworth 6X and Brakespear.

Rod

Dyson have made a living from domestic cyclones. Not sure where their various patents came from since the technology is old. They do work though and the filters don't clog like a conventional vacuum cleaner.

Rod

I use the Puffin browser to read the archive on my Samsung tablet (as recommended by JasonB)

Rod

Alan,

As you know, ETW was, in fact, very vague about the size of the gears and we can't be sure that he got it right. I made the "correct" skew gears for my Wyvern and still had to relieve the bracket to give clearance for the driven gear to rotate. I still revere the man though and I'm sure you will end up with a splendid engine.

Enjoy the journey,

Rod

I'm not sure that the criticism of Reeves is justified. ETW specified skew (helical) gears that had differing helix angles ( approx 60 and 30 degrees) such that they were the same diameter. This allowed the gears to fit nicely in the space he designed (probably ! ) The only readily available helical gears are 45 degrees so a compromise has to be reached. If you have found 45 degree gears that fit then it is possible that the gears will be too small for the load they have to carry (but I doubt it). Basically, Reeves have offered one solution (perhaps the same DP as the original gears but both 45 degree helix angle rather than a 30/60 pair). You have chosen a different solution - neither is correct according to the original design.

Cheers,

Rod

And all worth reading. keep 'em coming...😀

Rod