Member postings for Jon

Had a can some years back give me and thought it went on ok but came off ok as well.

Hope this isnt condescending certainly not intended to be in 27 years i have never ever measured the diameter or circumference of any part to be properley knurled. Say proper because i have never ever seen a decent knurl short of a cut knurl and normal knurler with human knowledge.

A good knurl to me is not leaving flats but are pointed, look for that next time more apparent o course.

Bit more proof you dont need to measure before knurling, done 22 course this week like this and well over 1900 in total over the years. Typical speed is 85rpm with coolant, any faster job rings often misses a beat and scraps the job.
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Nearly bought one Bill two years ago,very heavy leave in car whilst being topped up to 300bar (4500 psi).

I do my own pressure testing on high pressure cylinders i make and normally go for 1 1/2 times the operating pressure. No law for fixed cylinders, no test but easily would pass.

Worst of the lot are the US and Candians, no sense of danger. Quite a few have blown like drilling and tapping in to a Luxfer cylinder where its around 1/8" thick and tapping 1/8"BSP! Thats only a max of 3 threads if any good and out they strip at 232bar.
Likewise others using CO2 containers where it freezes around 110bar, operating much less to avoid this. They fill with oxygen, argon you name it to 3000 psi + and write it off as a bad day when it explodes.
As kept saying its not you i care about, you have an obligation to all others around whether in car or in actual use.

Very very limited i only know of one place in England that sells soft touch paint. Theres a min order of 2 ltrs (2 cans) and hardner about £130.

Wont find it on ebay either unless in USA and no one will export, come to think of it neither did the shops or producers there.

Acetone wouldnt fetch this stuff off plastics and woods but could on aluminium anodised wash it off with running water with aid of your nail.

Posted by Paul Lousick on 24/03/2019 00:13:45:

Top tip beef up the green extention.
As a guide mine is hell of a lot stiffer and the instances where vibration or intermittant cutting is apparent, mine can continually or just jump on the readout. ie continually count up. or take a drilling cut to zero on dro and find its stating 290mm to go. Had it last week boring a hole heavy cut and boring head opened up larger, only 960 to go by 5th April.

Where or how would you be able to mount a rotary table with dividing plates?
Impossible.

Also power feed stops and switch?

Replaced and had to refigure Dewhurst twice within 8 years to 2000. Used to use a 1hp Brook Compton motor from the 1/3 HP as standard in original fashion where 240v feeds through Dewhurst then to motor. Could go through on/off as many as 50 times a night dont worry about it.

The contacts do get mucky but easily cleaned off but never bothered.

You only need the most basic equipment decent vice, good files and a keen eye well within any ones workshop.

How do you think all the quality guns ever made were done and to a far greater quality in fact more like a totally different league working to microns polished. Video is left rough after the draw filing. Currently theres only three people alive with the know how.

Video he has left way too much meat on and using finishing files (be there all week), would still be using a bastard at that point before going to 2nd cut he certainly isnt doing it for a day job.

Done in 2004 15 years ago C type Sino scale mounted off the quill with an extention diagonally, credit where its due.

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Thats the first time i have seen anyone mount the spindle DRO like i did in 2004 but mine houses the coolant tap on quill.

On the X axis used C type Sino scales on to supplied backing with cover.
Can just see here flush with top. Think lose 1 1/2" Y travel.
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Wera coloured are the best by far not only are they stronger than anything encountered having tried them all, they fit the hex better than anything else out there.

Give you some idea i do have about 5 Bondhus T handle purely for spinning screws in that dont have to be tight. Found out the hard way have wrecked quite a few screw heads using Bondhus and rounding off, out comes the Wera thats the difference, job done!

If you had the choice when buying, without doubt R8.
If a machine was secondhand and MT3 that wouldnt rule it out for me either and never a problem removing takes 15 seconds, no lock up, nothing its used.

Depends how many tool holders you will need, if like me will need a lot and still need dozens more.

Multifix OSAO £220 odd plus £32.50 odd each holder

Alternative is the 250 series/200 about £125 and £20 per holder.

Check the small print, anything insurance companies can get away with they will.

Generally theres in excess of £30k in equipment and tools and dont want to hear the price they would command.
Business insurance even worse going back 9 years, couldnt find any that would undertake when mentioned revolving machinery.

Quite true Howard things we used to do.

Paid £40 for a pair of genuine Vauxhall SRI springs, another MOT failure. reknown for it. Cheaper than your replacement Robin when they go wrong guaranteed, its French and electrics. Time will tell on the new Vauxhalls electrics are done in France.

With tipped you dont have to keep faffing about setting heights.
Which comes in handy working from a zero, hss wears a lot more rapid than carbide and would need a couple of touch ups just in the roughing stage followed by another for finishing, thats 3 losses.

Havent used a tangential since 1992, great for learning with but limited use.
Lastly i would question the quality of any hss available the last 21 years unless i have been unlucky trying to sift the remotist of quality from any where.
No problem with old Eclipse HSS 5% Cobalt think thats all i have left from Graham Eng having junked the chinese trash which are like butter, slightest touch and too far gone.

Try this Paul better quality Mitsubishi where i had a 2.2kw from in 2017, yet to wire it up. They were that much cheaper delivered than any where else at the time even with an extra filter £25 ish thrown in.

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Currently use a Direct Drives 1ph to 3ph 400v+ 10hp last 8 years absolutely useless for help, you dont want to know the price, more than doubled.

Beauty is you will only have to buy a new 2hp motor, personally i would go 3hp and an invertor. No messing about as theres no trips to wire in being a clutch. Cost of a rewound motor would exceed a new foreign motor.

On my old scrapped 140 1ph 240v i could face off 5 1/4" round aluminium 6082 taking 1/2" depth of cut power cross feed at 1000 rpm. Dont get me wrong it moaned but proved a point.
In fact theres a piccy on here taken about 2002.

1&3 If its external thread its very easy, i can usually stop within 0.3mm then revolve chuck by hand or with a spanner around a jaw so tip is up against a face or blind hole for internal threads with no relief for strength. You physically cannot do this inverting the tool or using opposite hand tool and firing away from spindle which in its self gives problems lining up without chipping the tips.

2 As before keep it simple, certainly for now as it irons out any potential problems caused by doing that.

3 Last place of work they had a cheap asian geared head almost impossible to select any other spindle speed. Right pain revolving chuck for 1/2" UNF X 14mm long then back out every time.

Realistically you should be able to leave a superb finish from 40RPM upwards with full profile tips. Been there done it for the scary threads up to shoulders with or without relief.

Quite right Paul next lathe would have the Ainjest or similar but grieves me at the 2nd hand price they command.
Did often use an Elliott auto threading machine forget the name its been 22 years. Took longer to load the hydraulic cylinders in 10 seconds, than thread M28.6 X 1.5mm with 7 passes. Every one a mirror finish.

Firstly this is the best thread on this subject ever seen especially Paul K.

To fit a Myford! If you know how to machine you could work with 23" long.
If bore through headstock thats only sub 14mm and you wont do a lot.

Personally i would rule out Myfords they have a bunch of die hards that cant accept anything is better for 1/4 the price. Its those that keep the prices up. I paid £400 in 92 for an ML7 with all extras.

The cheap asian imports bought and abused over many many years are selling more than they were brand new. This also has driven the prices of decent stuff up ie £750 for an M300 8 1/2 years ago, theyve been £2300+ for the last 6 years about £30k new and asian made.

You get the message prices has risen three set times in last 25+ years.
Dont expect to get a Myford at 1979 prices, they want that for a change wheel.

If its for the odd tat about check Boxfords out.

Put money on it the installer has only screwed towards the top and bottom only.

Must admit i have a little laugh when a customer says something like 113mm diameter and probably reply with 4 1/2". Hell i even mix imperial and metric up on same paragraph.

I was taught imperial at school, some years later what a godsend worked at an engineerring co using millimeters to indefinate. So could have a dimension 7500 which is 7.5m or in the case of spec conformity on steels 25.4 x 4.76 (which is 1" x 3/16"

Last employed place when i started in 99 i thought i took a step back in time to the 30 and 40's in every way. They worked in thous and general imperial, problem was deciphering US sketches for high value high quality parts to which i always converted to metric.

What surprises me considering metrics been the industry standard for more than 35 years is when you buy aluminium, its 95% still imperial. Unless of course yo have your own rolling mill.