Here is a list of all the postings Peter Simpson 2 has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Using a shaping machine|
Many thanks for the feedback, some further info.
1. Prior to any machining I allowed the table support bar to drop, the pinch bolt was then nipped up.
2. The tool was ground from 3/8" HSS to a parting off profile with very little front rake and plenty of side clearance.
One area which I was not to sure about was the test piece set up.
I had the test piece clamped in the Boxford vice so it protruded from the right side of the vice jaws. I then canted the tool post over to allow the cutting edge of tool to cut across the test piece. The shaper was started, I wound the table feed leadscrew slowly to bring the job to the tool, initially it stated to cut a slot but after a few strokes the tool dug in and twisted the vice on in central holding down bolt.
If I had the test piece mounted central and vertically in the machine vice there would have been no twisting action on the vice. But how could I have moved the job to the tool ? Is it acceptable to adjust the toolpost micrometer adjuster whilst the ram is in operation.
|Thread: "Speedy" frames|
Has anybody out there modified LBSC's 5" gauge Speedy using Don Young's modifications. I have the original drawings showing the dimensions of the frames. I also have a diagram showing the frames with the Don Young modifications. As far as I can tell the frame modifications look to be purely cosmetic as the location of the cylinders on both original and Don Young drawings are the same. Obviously there are significant changes in the valve gear as this is what the modifications are all about. As I have built the frames and running gear to the original drawings, I'm a little concerned with regards to pushing through with the Don Young mods if the frames require modification.
|Thread: Lead screw nuts|
My Tom Senior light vertical (metric) milling machine has a fair bit of back lash in the X and Y lead screws. Has anybody out there had new lead screw nut manufactured ? If so could you suggest a suitable supplier of these items.
Mant thanks Peter
|Thread: "Speedy" boiler|
With the running gear of "Speedy" coming on nicely, it's time to consider the boiler. could anybody suggest a good manufacturer of a Speedy boiler and also the lead time required between ordering one and delivery.
|Thread: ME nuts and bolts|
Thanks for the feedback, I have decided to change the ME threads to BA. As for the statement by Michael Williams that "ME threads were very rarely called for" This is my fiirst attempt at a Loco. The Drawings of "Speedy" are littered with fixings with ME threads!
Just about completed the hornblocks and axle boxes on my 5" gauge "Speedy" . The original plans call for several threades in ME sizes, ie 1/4"x 40, 5/32" x 40. etc
As I cannot find a supplier of fixings in ME sizes what is the best solution.
1, Convert to the nearest BA size.
2. Purchase Hex bar and fabricate all of the fixings to ME sizes.
|Thread: Power Hacksaw run off|
Just ordered new blades, hope this sorts it out.
I have nice Meddings HS4 power hacksaw which does not cut the bar stock quite square. As it cuts it runs off away from clamped bar stock. It appears to cut with the same error every time. Other than the gib strip there does not appear to be any adjustment to correct this error. Has anybody out there had similar issues with power hacksaws.
Is a 14" power hack saw blade the total length of the blade or is it 14" between fixing hole centres?
Any responces greatfully received
|Thread: Black Five, Jinty or 4F - 3½" or 5" gauge - for a Beginner?|
I'm in a similar situation to yourself. Not long retired, good workshop with a lathe, milling machine, shaping machine and drill. I have made a start on "Speedy" in 5" gauge. One of the main reasons for this loco was the availability of a book to help with the construction. Yes I have come across the statement." I'm not going to describe this operation because I did so last year in" which is no good to a raw beginer. As I live close to Rydale Railways model engineering site there are always a good number of very experienced loco builders to ask opinions of, and loads of loco's to examine in detail.
|Thread: 3 phase motor connections|
Thanks for the replies, As Phil states there are four terminals and there is a diagram on the back of the terminal cover giving a High and Low voltage wiring configuration although it's not very clear. I also got some before and after photo's of the connections for Delta / Mesh from Peter at Transwave, who I find is very helpfull in all thing to do with 3 phase conversion
I have just purchased a nice Boxford Shaping machine, The motor is a 3 phase Crompton Parkinson 0.75 HP motor, I believe that it is wired in STAR 380/440v at the moment.
The motor data plate indicates there is an option of 220/240V MESH connection. Is this the same as DELTA connections. It does not appear to have the normal links that you associate with a STAR / DELTA dual voltage motor. Please could any electrical wizard guide me in the right direction to.
Wire it for installation of an inverter.
Thanks in advance for any info.
|Thread: Speedy axle boxes|
Hi Guy's Thanks for the feedback. I assume that if one uses gun metal bushes in the cast iron axle box. The construction of the axle box would need to be a one piece construction. The original "Speedy" drawing show a split axle box with a keeper and a felt oil pad. Fabricating a solid cast iron axle box then pressing in a gun metal bearing would my easier and considerably cheaper in material costs. Lubrication would require a hole to be drilled vertically through the axle box and the bearing bush.
I have made the frames for my 5" gauge Speedy. I intend to fit cast iron horn blocks. Would it be realistic to make the split axle boxes out of cast iron square bar. Would BMS axles run ok face to face with cast iron. or should Gun Metal be used.
Any assistance would be appriciated.
|Thread: Imperial sized materials|
I'm looking to build "Speedy" in 5" gauge. Can you still purchase material such as black steel plate etc in imperial sizes. The frames are fabricated in 1/8" plate and all the dimensions are imperial. I would of thought the change to metric sizes would be a little complicated. Any assistance to a "newbie" would be much appriciated.
|Thread: Which 5" gauge loco|
Thanks for the reply's. My preference is to build a scale model of an English type loco with a wheel 0 -6-0 arrangement. I would prefer outside cylinders as there is more detail on show in this layout. The tin ware on a saddle tank looks more complicated than a side tank, so these preferences pointed me in the direction of my selected options
I Have just about completed a Stuart Steam No9 engine and I'm now looking forward to a future project. I'm considering a big leap to a 5" gauge loco. I have in mind the following examples.
Reeves 2000. "Jill", "Pansy" or "Speedy"
GLR. "Pansy" or "Tich" has anybody built any of these as a first build or should I look at other options. A book to explain the building process would be a help during construction of the final choise.
Any assistance would be greatfully received.
|Thread: Myford carraige wheel|
My brother has just purchased a second hand Super 7. It is fitted with a micrometer dial on the carraige hand wheel, it appears to be a very handy extra. Were these fitted by Myford or is it an after market addition by the likes of Hemingway's ?
|Thread: Boring bars|
I'm in the process of making a Stuart No 9 engine. Reading Tubal Cains book on the subject, he suggests "boring" the piston to allow it to be threaded 3/16" BSF. Does he mean drilling it, as I cannot believe you can bore such as small diameter hole with a boring bar. I purchased a small boring bar from RDG it's about 4mm minimum hole diameter. I have experimented with it on BMS but the finish is poor due the flex in the tool. I'm loathed to bore the piston prior to threading it. I see no advantage in boring the hole over drilling it tapping diameter. Any advice would be greatly appriciated.
|Thread: Three Jaw Chucks|
Roderick, I would investigate the possibility of that solution if the error on rechucking was similar every time, but the results vary every time I check the run out. Looks like a new chuck is the only solution.
I have been experimenting with my Burnerd 3 Jaw chuck. After skimming a 1" diameter piece of BMS I reversed this in the chuck and did the same to the other end. I put DI on the free end an measured 0 run out. I then removed the metal from the chuck to simulate another activity that may have been required. The metal was then rechucked and the DI was set back up again. The best repeatability was approx .005" to the worst being .020" I removed the metal several times, used all three chuck key positions to nip up the metal. The repeatability was poor to say the least. Could one expect to get a repeatability of .002" every time you carry out this experement. Is the chuck worn out or strained by it's previous owner.
Could I expect better results if I purchased a chuck from the likes of RDG or Arc Euro.
Many thanks for any info supplies
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.