Here is a list of all the postings Lathejack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Lathe Spindle|
The trouble with using a Model 'A' headstock, despite later ones having a D1-3 Camlock, is that the centre hight is only 4 1/2 inches. But because it is a genuine toolroom class lathe built to the correct proportions, the width of the bed across the very large slideways is more than twice the centre hight at 9 1/2 inches, so it will cope with a centre hight of around 6 1/2 - 7 inches to swing your 12 inch chuck. Most workshop type lathes of around 6 1/2 inch centre hight have beds that are only around 7 1/2 - 8 inches wide with much smaller slideways, so you were right to choose the Model 'A' bed.
A simpler but just as effective as a Camlock type spindle nose is a design used on some German machines such as Wieller and also Prazimat's DLZ, and even on a few cheap Chinese bench lathes such as the Sieg C6 and Chester's belt change DB 10 G.
This looks at first like a thick plane flange type fitting but behind the flange is a thin knurled collar. The nuts behind the collar that secure the chuck are just loosened, no need to remove them, and then the collar is rotated a few degrees to align the larger holes machined in it which allows the chuck to be withdrawn complete with the mounting nuts.
The backplates look a bit like a Camlock type. They have at least 3 large diameter pins with a smaller thread and nut on the end. This system is safe to start and run in reverse and to use a spindle brake in both directions, and is almost as quick to remove and replace as a camlock but would be simpler and quicker to make, as well as the backplates.
The short locating register or spiggot on the front of the spindle nose does not have to be tapered. it could be a parrallel type. After all, threaded spindle noses use a parrallel register and a shoulder to very accurately locate chucks and other fittings, the thread does nothing more than pull the fitting on and hold it there. Many lathes currently on the market that use a plain flange type fitting also use a short parrallel register.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 12/05/2011 13:08:29
|Thread: Adjustable Dials for Feedscrews|
I haven't got anything to add about resettable dials, but regarding the animated adds quite a while ago on this forum someone sent a post explaining how to stop them. I found them anoying so i followed the instructions and haven't been bothered by them since, but i cannot remember how it was done. Can anyone recall how to do it?
|Thread: 'New lathe chuck jaw screws'|
I thought Norman Hurst did a fine job of remaking the jaw screws, and as i have a six inch Pratt chuck with a damaged screw i was quite interested.
But, if i remember correctly, the chuck used in the article has screws that are held captive in the jaws with the matching half thread form cut into the chuck body. So these will use a standard right hand thread, so that turning the screw clockwise will close the jaws onto the workpiece.
All the indipendant four jaw chucks i have, and have ever had, use screws that are held captive in the chuck body with the thread form cut into the back of the jaws. So these use a left hand thread to close the jaws while turning the screw clockwise.
I am not sure how easy it will be to get left hand threaded grub screws, as standard right hand threaded ones will unfortunately be no use in a chuck of this type. What a shame, as i was all set to modify the grub screws i have for my chuck as Norman did.
Edited By Lathejack on 13/04/2011 23:04:39
Edited By Lathejack on 13/04/2011 23:05:57
|Thread: Myford and other copies.|
I have just been looking on the Grizzly.com website, and in their lathes section i noticed they are offering brand new copies of the Southbend 10K lathe.
This new machine follows the old traditional lines of the Southbend, and so has features familier to owners of old Boxford lathes. It retaines the triple vee bedway, the apron and screwcutting gearbox design and the tumbler reverse mechanism.
The new headstock does not seem to include a back gear, but it does have a belt drive similar to Polyvee, and includes a camlock spindle. These and some other design features suggest it is made in the Far East, where else? But the close up photos show excellent attention to detail and it to be a high quallity machine.
I'm very tempted to treat myself to one, and might contact Grizzly regarding the possibility of importing one.
Far Eastern copies of Western machinery have always interested me. Just recently offererd on Ebay there was a Taiwanese made copy of a Myford Super 7. This copy, badged as a Warco 730, was a long bed version complete with a hardened bed, power cross feed and a screw cutting gearbox.
From what i could tell from the detailed photos, it looked to be good quality and just about identicle to the genuine machine. I think these copies were also at one time badged as Whitecote.
Does anyone out there own one of these machines? How do they compair to the real thing? There was a recent letter to, i think, MEW regarding the headstock belts, from an owner of a Warco badged copy. A few years ago i had an interesting conversation with Roger Warren about these machines. They also offered a standard bed version, the 720 and also a copy of the ML10, which is the only one i've seen in the metal.
Does anyone own a Chester Cestrian? This was a copy of the GOLmatic multi function milling machine at a fraction of the price. I examined one a few years ago and it mostly looked pretty good. It seems to have disappeared from Chesters product range just recently.
Emco machines have been widely copied over the years, such as their Compact 8 lathe and some quite good copies of their FB2 geared head milling machine. Emco themselves started to sell the FB2 copies, these had a black and red paint job.
Oddly, the current Emco F1-P milling machine is really a copy of two different machines. The table and vertical collumn are copies of the FB2 items, and the milling head is a copy of Hobbymats belt drive version of the BFE mill. Strange what the Far East get up to.
Edited By Lathejack on 15/12/2010 23:10:07
|Thread: Which New Lathe; choices, choices...|
Wow! I was convinced you would go for the Ceriani. In some of Wabecos old adverts for the D6000 they used to proudly boast that it could 'Remove 10 mm of stock in a single pass'. A 5 mm depth of cut is a bit extreme i know, but interesting to try. It would be interesting to know how it performs compared to the WM280, which is based on the Wabeco, owned by JasonB and Terryd. The 280 looks just as heavily built, if not a bit heavier.
Oh God! An M300 going for ten pounds. I'm going to have to sit down for a long time with a very strong coffee and a huge pile of biscuits before i get over that one.
Edited By Lathejack on 26/11/2010 04:44:33
|Thread: Chinese lathes|
The photos in the album were to illustrate what i found in my machine and, because of the way they are produced and because it was a replacement for the first machine that had the same faults but worse, what some other owners may find in theirs. It shows the remedies i used to correct them, particularly the regular pattern of rings produced on softer metals when using finer feeds, a problem experienced by other owners of similar machines, of various makes and models, i've spoken to.
It was about the factories and their methods that cause these problems. Where they are well made it says so. It was not about and does not include any bitching, bashing or slagging off of the supplier, or any other supplier of Chinese machinery. They are not referred to at all in the descriptive text, maybe i should have hidden the brand too.
I did not start a post or thread grumbling about the quallity of Chinese machinery and the suppiers of my own or others. In fact i have still reccomended one of Warcos lathes on another post, so there is no hate campain going on.
I was reluctant to get drawn into what might have got turned into or appeared to be a list of moaning and accusations as its in the past whether i'm dissapionted with the experience or not. But it seems i owe a bit of an explanation.
Yes i should have rejected the second machine after checking for and finding rust, although a lot less than the first, while still on the delivery lorry. Earlier concernes during ownership voiced to a member of staff about the possibility of damaged bearings were dismissed as nonsense.
A phone call to the supplier when the full extent of the corrosion damage was discovered, once i had finaly found the time to investigate further, as a partner with MS consumes a lot of it, with the machine by this time well out of warranty, got the rather reluctant reply that if i wanted to post them they would take a look. But on mentioning the extent of the corrosion, and on both machines, the first of which by the way had a manufacture date of two and a half years earlier, and asking what might be going wrong in the assembly factory, i was rather abruptly told that there is 'no problem' and 'we never have any trouble' followed by 'the factories are the equal of European ones'.
I think at that point, probably foolishly, i gave up with them, not sure how to prove the rust was there from the start. As for the casting sand and swarf, well i don't recall raising any concerns about that. I always check for it and have always found it in every enclosed type gearbox on machines from Taiwan and China that i have owned. I have two horizontal bandsaws [not Warco machines] and the gearboxes on both contained some. But it was a bit excessive on the lathe.
The Sale Of Goods Act posted by some is an eye opener, but how many of us in our daily lives are aware of its details, and would or should have to use it like a stick to beat a retailer with.
The 'Mines alright and you should have bought something else' brigade should remember it is not the purchaser who is responsible or to blame for choosing to buy machinery that turns out to be faulty. And as for 'Getting what we pay for' well i think the claims made in the printed advert and verbal assurances is what we pay for, Whatever the asking price.
Edited By Lathejack on 26/11/2010 03:38:06
|Thread: CT 918 - any comments|
The 918 lathes, first made in Taiwan and later China, have been around for many years and are a copy of the origional made in Austria Emco Compact 8, not to be confused with the current Compact 8E which is itself made in China.
As usual the Far East gives you a bit extra for your money and include a nine position quick change screwcutting gearbox and a longitudinal powerfeed built into the apron indipendant of the leedscrew thread. So you can change from a fine feed to a thread pitch and back again without having to constantly alter the change wheels, which are usualy made of plastic. There is no power crossfeed.
There is no method of reversing the leedscrew, and one of the main problems seems to be the rather weak two bolt fixing of the topslide to the crosslide. A very popular mod is to convert the topslide base to a four bolt fixing which can improve the ridgidity and turning finish a lot. They all seem to use a threaded spindle nose instead of the often fiddly plain flange of a lot of todays bench top lathes.
There must have been quite a lot of producers of the 918 in the Far East as quality and small details vary a lot. Some i have examined have been quite tidy machines and others very rough and ready.
If you do an internet search for '9x20 lathe' this should provide a lot of infomation on problems and mods. The machines seem to be very popular in the United States and are usualy referred to as the 9x20.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 21/11/2010 00:21:30
|Thread: Quick Step Mill.|
I have seen it on the Hemingway website and i did notice the three position dial on the side, but the info there isn't very detailed and didn't confirm anything. Sometimes products change while adverts still show outdated images and descriptions, a bit like Warco's brochures, so i wasn't sure.
Very interested in the photos. I think the Hemingway product is a finished item rather than a kit, and with an internal gearbox no wonder its expensive.
Edited By Lathejack on 17/11/2010 18:15:34
Does anyone out there own and use a Quick Step Mill? They've been around for a while but i've never seen one in the flesh. If so, are they any good and how are the speeds changed? They seem to be very well made and i may have some use for one.
|Thread: Which New Lathe; choices, choices...|
Hi all and the Aviator.
I've just joined the forum and am very interested in the views on Chinese machinery.Your choice of possible lathes is quite good. Although the dovetail bed of the Ceriani is not hardened it does at least use seperate slideways for the tailstock allowing a long saddle, much better than Myfords ML10, and should last many years. As already said lots of lathes have unhardened beds and still give many years of service.
The Warco 280 VF is a very nice machine and is in fact a Chinese copy of the Wabeco D6000 that you considered. Apart from a few small details most of the castings are the same, and thankfully the Chinese have copied the large and very wide bed slidways and hardened them so they should last a long time. As well as that you get a screwcutting gearbox and a separate feedshaft giving power cross and longitudinal feed all for much less than half the price of the admitedly very well made but very basic Wabeco. Dammit, i fancy one myself and if i didn't already have two lathes i might have treated myself to one.
I have been examining and fiddling with Far Easten machinery for the last twenty years, and use a Taiwanese made Warco VMC mill and for the last five or six years a Chinese made Warco 1330 geared head lathe. While most of the individual components are well made they can suffer a bit in the hands of the factories that assemble them, but this does vary a lot. So a lot of machines will be fine but faulty machines do exist, particularly the lower priced gear head machines like mine. Don,t worry about backlash on the topslide and crosslide feedscrews and carraige handwheel as you get that on all lathes to some extent no matter wherethey are made.
My machines are however very accurate and i can use them with confidence to turn out good work.
Most complaints and horror stories, at least by people who actually own them, are justified, i have cast iron proof of if myself, but Chinese stuff is still worth considering, any faults will be put right by the dealer and if you get a good one your laughing.
All the best.
Edited By Gene Federici on 11/11/2010 21:25:55
Edited By Lathejack on 11/11/2010 21:30:30
Edited By Lathejack on 11/11/2010 23:42:41
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