Here is a list of all the postings Lathejack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Warwickshire Show.|
We could be twins!
Yes it would be interesting to meet up with some forum members.
I just hope the rain eases off a bit. I think it is about a 180 mile round trip for me, but it was well worth it last year. I am sure there are others that travel a lot further.
Well I am all set to visit the show on Thursday and Friday, I visited this show for the first time last year on the spur of the moment and thoroughly enjoyed it. Am I right in thinking this show replaced the one I used to visit every year at Donnington?
I noticed that Axminster Tools are attending this year. I haven't seen them at M.E. shows for years, or have I just not noticed them? Glad to see them there anyway.
Now I must nip to the cash point for a wedge of notes to buy tooling I need desperately, and then store them away for years until one day they may actually be needed, what a hobby!
|Thread: What's happened to Terryd.|
I could be wrong, but i am sure that a short while ago i saw Terryd selling his 280 lathe in the adds section.
If so, does anyone know if he is packing up for good or just upgrading. I always think it's a shame when people decide to pack it in and sell all their gear, so i hope this isn't the case.
|Thread: Banding on surface finish|
The problem you have was one of many faults i had with a new Warco 1330 lathe that i bought from them several years ago, and it is not uncommon. The lathe shown in your link has the same apron as mine, so i assume your lathe does too, but if not the cause may still be the same.
You will find that the pitch of the banding is the same as the distance the carrage travels for every revolution of the feed shaft when longitudinal power feed is engaged. Behind the apron the feed shaft passes through a cast iron trough integral with the apron, the trough side walls are bored to support the feedshaft.
Inside this trough sits the steel worm gear, with the feedshaft passing through it, and this worm meshes with and drives a bronze worm wheel above it. Two or three faults can often be found here that can cause the banding, and you may have one or more.
The bores in the trough side walls can be oversize allowing the feedshaft to roll around as it rotates, taking the worm gear with it. The worm gear can also have a bore that is eccentric to its teeth, this gear can also be a sloppy fit on the feed shaft.
These faults cause the worm gear to go in and out of mesh slightly with the bronze worm wheel when power feed is used, so the carrage does not travel at a constant rate. It is a little hard to imagine this having much affect on the surface finish, but it does, and can show up even worse on softer metals such as aluminium and bronze.
One of my photo albums includes some of what i did to cure this problem. I also had to mount the worm gear on a mandrel and reskim the gear teeth concentric to the bore, there is not quite enough room to bore it out and bush it.
It does not matter what feedrate you select, the carrage always travels the same distance per revolution of the feedshaft, so the pitch of the banding is always the same. The banding will show up more the finer the feedrate and the better the cutting tool.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 15/04/2013 01:05:02
Edited By Lathejack on 15/04/2013 01:16:26
Edited By Lathejack on 15/04/2013 01:20:39
|Thread: pillar drill column|
Bright drawn bar will be fine if you can get it at the right price. It is formed straight and round but the surface finish can vary between batches. It is also usually a few thou or more undersize, but this can also vary.
We use bright drawn bar at work and i have once had to use undersize 70 mm bar where 2 3/4 was needed as it was a better fit than the undersize 2 3/4 bar we had. If you wish i can ask them to give me a price for the length you want, i don't live very far from Sheffield.
Seam welded steel tube isn't always formed very round, at least not for a good reliable fit in the bore of your drill head and table casting, with or without a bush.
Scaffold tube to me just seems too rough and flimsy as a replacement. You might find the table and head being pushed away from each other as the column flexes when using the larger drills that your backgeared drill head can manage. If you are not careful you might just end up with a rubbish drill.
I have an Elliot Progress 2G backgeared pillar drill that uses a solid ground steel column of similar diameter to yours, as standard, sat on a tall square cast iron column. I have often thought about using bright drawn bar of the same overall length so that the table can be lowered further to gain more room under the head.
I will also have a look and see if we have an old hydraulic ram, as JohnF suggests, lying about.
All the best
Edited By Lathejack on 17/01/2013 01:49:15
|Thread: Which WARCO LATHE any opinions ?|
Phil W makes a good point about the gearbox on the 1330. The fact is that, in addition to the usual extra change wheels, this lathe comes supplied and fitted with an additional set of gears which use a 100 tooth gear on the gearbox shaft. These are only for generating finer feedrates down to around 0.0026 inches.
When these are in place thead pitches cannot be selected. They do not have to be fitted. If some of the normal change wheels are fitted as shown on the screwcutting chart, say to provide a range of imperial pitches using a 48 tooth gear on the gearbox, then you can select between fine feeds and threads at the flick of a lever but the finest feed will be slightly more than twice the rate.
I have thought about fitting a 96 tooth gear to the gearbox shaft. This would allow a range of similar finer feeds and some thread pitches to be selected without having to alter change wheels. It would have to be remembered that the thread pitches produced would be half that shown on the chart.
Of course, some altering of the change wheels will always be required to cover the full range of metric and imperial threads that the 1330's gearbox is capable of, as is the case with many other makes of lathe. Although some Harrison and Colechester owners can quite rightly enter smug mode on this point.
I have had a Warco 1330 lathe for about eight years. Despite a few snags early on it is a very good machine. They are very heavily built, with a much deeper and heavier bed casting than the 1232 lathe and slightly better overall quality, Its design originates from the Harrison M300. As JasonB said, both these machines have power crossfeed. The quick change camlock spindles are also a real bonus.
The geared headstock is extremely quiet, better in fact than some belt drive lathes i have heared. I added a three phase motor and inverter which has just transformed it. I can't fault its accuracy and the accessories that came with it are excellent.
The 1232 lathe can be a good buy, but if you end up choosing between these two machines and can afford the extra, i would go for the 1330.
Incidently, Warco offer an improved version of the 1330, i think it's the WM 330 A. This has improved gearbox and electrical controls and i am sure it is the same price.
If you do decide to buy a smaller new machine, the WM280VF or 290VF are an excellent choice. The beds have very wide and chunky slideways, in fact i still fancy one myself. These lathes are based on the Wabeco D6000.
Toolco and Amadeal also offer versions of these machines, and might be worth a look to compare.
All the best.
Edited By Lathejack on 17/11/2012 20:20:55
|Thread: Midlands Model Engineering Exibition.|
Thanks for your replies, i think i've made up my mind to go after reading them, if the weather is ok after Gordon put a curse on it.
As for some traders staying away, i noticed at Harrogate this year that Proops, Rotagrip and Forrest Classics were absent, but Amadeal were there, i think for the first time.
I've just noticed the dates for the Midlands show and, as i have never been to it before, i wondered how good it normally is. Is this the show that replaced the Donnington event? How does it compare to the Harrogate show?
Since the Donnington show ended i can usually only manage to attend the Harrogate show each year. I visited Harrogate on all three days with a 125 mile round trip each day and thoroughly enjoyed it, worth every penny. I tend to get machine tool withdrawal symptoms having to waite a hole year between shows, sad i know.
I must say it's the trade stands that is the main attraction for me. I might book a few days holliday and pay a visit or two, it would be a 180 mile round trip for this show so i hope it's worth it.
Hello Tractor man.
The Bridgeport is certainly a very versatile machine, and capable of all manner of contortions to get a job done.
We have one at work and on a few occasions long shafts have been safely and securely clamped vertically down the side of the table, or horizontaly on the table with the head tilted over to work on the ends. A bit tricky but sometimes possible.
Five inches of quill travel might not seem much for a machine this size, but most pillar drills up to medium size don't have any more than that. If using it regularly for drilling you just have to be extra careful not to plunge the drill into that nice precision table or milling vice, ouch!
The right angle drives for horizontal milling mentioned by Kwil do work well, and new ones are sometimes on offer at Model Engineering Exibitions for around £200.
I agree with Jeff regarding the copies made in the far east, some of these are certainly just as good as the genuine Bridgeport, so don't be put off if you come across one for sale. I remember a couple of these i looked at several years ago, one marketed by Gate and the other by Warco. They were both excellent in every detail and almost identical to the real thing.
In fact i fancy one myself now. I recently bought a classic Massey Ferguson so it might come in handy.
All the best.
Edited By Lathejack on 22/04/2012 00:33:02
Edited By Lathejack on 22/04/2012 00:34:01
|Thread: Does anyone have any experiance with this lathe?|
If you type Gloaming Agnet into a search box at the top of the results is a South Australian Web Guide. This takes you to a website with various topics, fourth one down is the CQ 9325 lathe which is the same as the one you are considering. There are seven pages of info on the owners lathe, with links to two other owners of similar machines.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 30/10/2011 21:22:09
|Thread: Lathe Spindle|
The trouble with using a Model 'A' headstock, despite later ones having a D1-3 Camlock, is that the centre hight is only 4 1/2 inches. But because it is a genuine toolroom class lathe built to the correct proportions, the width of the bed across the very large slideways is more than twice the centre hight at 9 1/2 inches, so it will cope with a centre hight of around 6 1/2 - 7 inches to swing your 12 inch chuck. Most workshop type lathes of around 6 1/2 inch centre hight have beds that are only around 7 1/2 - 8 inches wide with much smaller slideways, so you were right to choose the Model 'A' bed.
A simpler but just as effective as a Camlock type spindle nose is a design used on some German machines such as Wieller and also Prazimat's DLZ, and even on a few cheap Chinese bench lathes such as the Sieg C6 and Chester's belt change DB 10 G.
This looks at first like a thick plane flange type fitting but behind the flange is a thin knurled collar. The nuts behind the collar that secure the chuck are just loosened, no need to remove them, and then the collar is rotated a few degrees to align the larger holes machined in it which allows the chuck to be withdrawn complete with the mounting nuts.
The backplates look a bit like a Camlock type. They have at least 3 large diameter pins with a smaller thread and nut on the end. This system is safe to start and run in reverse and to use a spindle brake in both directions, and is almost as quick to remove and replace as a camlock but would be simpler and quicker to make, as well as the backplates.
The short locating register or spiggot on the front of the spindle nose does not have to be tapered. it could be a parrallel type. After all, threaded spindle noses use a parrallel register and a shoulder to very accurately locate chucks and other fittings, the thread does nothing more than pull the fitting on and hold it there. Many lathes currently on the market that use a plain flange type fitting also use a short parrallel register.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 12/05/2011 13:08:29
|Thread: Adjustable Dials for Feedscrews|
I haven't got anything to add about resettable dials, but regarding the animated adds quite a while ago on this forum someone sent a post explaining how to stop them. I found them anoying so i followed the instructions and haven't been bothered by them since, but i cannot remember how it was done. Can anyone recall how to do it?
|Thread: 'New lathe chuck jaw screws'|
I thought Norman Hurst did a fine job of remaking the jaw screws, and as i have a six inch Pratt chuck with a damaged screw i was quite interested.
But, if i remember correctly, the chuck used in the article has screws that are held captive in the jaws with the matching half thread form cut into the chuck body. So these will use a standard right hand thread, so that turning the screw clockwise will close the jaws onto the workpiece.
All the indipendant four jaw chucks i have, and have ever had, use screws that are held captive in the chuck body with the thread form cut into the back of the jaws. So these use a left hand thread to close the jaws while turning the screw clockwise.
I am not sure how easy it will be to get left hand threaded grub screws, as standard right hand threaded ones will unfortunately be no use in a chuck of this type. What a shame, as i was all set to modify the grub screws i have for my chuck as Norman did.
Edited By Lathejack on 13/04/2011 23:04:39
Edited By Lathejack on 13/04/2011 23:05:57
|Thread: Myford and other copies.|
I have just been looking on the Grizzly.com website, and in their lathes section i noticed they are offering brand new copies of the Southbend 10K lathe.
This new machine follows the old traditional lines of the Southbend, and so has features familier to owners of old Boxford lathes. It retaines the triple vee bedway, the apron and screwcutting gearbox design and the tumbler reverse mechanism.
The new headstock does not seem to include a back gear, but it does have a belt drive similar to Polyvee, and includes a camlock spindle. These and some other design features suggest it is made in the Far East, where else? But the close up photos show excellent attention to detail and it to be a high quallity machine.
I'm very tempted to treat myself to one, and might contact Grizzly regarding the possibility of importing one.
Far Eastern copies of Western machinery have always interested me. Just recently offererd on Ebay there was a Taiwanese made copy of a Myford Super 7. This copy, badged as a Warco 730, was a long bed version complete with a hardened bed, power cross feed and a screw cutting gearbox.
From what i could tell from the detailed photos, it looked to be good quality and just about identicle to the genuine machine. I think these copies were also at one time badged as Whitecote.
Does anyone out there own one of these machines? How do they compair to the real thing? There was a recent letter to, i think, MEW regarding the headstock belts, from an owner of a Warco badged copy. A few years ago i had an interesting conversation with Roger Warren about these machines. They also offered a standard bed version, the 720 and also a copy of the ML10, which is the only one i've seen in the metal.
Does anyone own a Chester Cestrian? This was a copy of the GOLmatic multi function milling machine at a fraction of the price. I examined one a few years ago and it mostly looked pretty good. It seems to have disappeared from Chesters product range just recently.
Emco machines have been widely copied over the years, such as their Compact 8 lathe and some quite good copies of their FB2 geared head milling machine. Emco themselves started to sell the FB2 copies, these had a black and red paint job.
Oddly, the current Emco F1-P milling machine is really a copy of two different machines. The table and vertical collumn are copies of the FB2 items, and the milling head is a copy of Hobbymats belt drive version of the BFE mill. Strange what the Far East get up to.
Edited By Lathejack on 15/12/2010 23:10:07
|Thread: Which New Lathe; choices, choices...|
Wow! I was convinced you would go for the Ceriani. In some of Wabecos old adverts for the D6000 they used to proudly boast that it could 'Remove 10 mm of stock in a single pass'. A 5 mm depth of cut is a bit extreme i know, but interesting to try. It would be interesting to know how it performs compared to the WM280, which is based on the Wabeco, owned by JasonB and Terryd. The 280 looks just as heavily built, if not a bit heavier.
Oh God! An M300 going for ten pounds. I'm going to have to sit down for a long time with a very strong coffee and a huge pile of biscuits before i get over that one.
Edited By Lathejack on 26/11/2010 04:44:33
|Thread: Chinese lathes|
The photos in the album were to illustrate what i found in my machine and, because of the way they are produced and because it was a replacement for the first machine that had the same faults but worse, what some other owners may find in theirs. It shows the remedies i used to correct them, particularly the regular pattern of rings produced on softer metals when using finer feeds, a problem experienced by other owners of similar machines, of various makes and models, i've spoken to.
It was about the factories and their methods that cause these problems. Where they are well made it says so. It was not about and does not include any bitching, bashing or slagging off of the supplier, or any other supplier of Chinese machinery. They are not referred to at all in the descriptive text, maybe i should have hidden the brand too.
I did not start a post or thread grumbling about the quallity of Chinese machinery and the suppiers of my own or others. In fact i have still reccomended one of Warcos lathes on another post, so there is no hate campain going on.
I was reluctant to get drawn into what might have got turned into or appeared to be a list of moaning and accusations as its in the past whether i'm dissapionted with the experience or not. But it seems i owe a bit of an explanation.
Yes i should have rejected the second machine after checking for and finding rust, although a lot less than the first, while still on the delivery lorry. Earlier concernes during ownership voiced to a member of staff about the possibility of damaged bearings were dismissed as nonsense.
A phone call to the supplier when the full extent of the corrosion damage was discovered, once i had finaly found the time to investigate further, as a partner with MS consumes a lot of it, with the machine by this time well out of warranty, got the rather reluctant reply that if i wanted to post them they would take a look. But on mentioning the extent of the corrosion, and on both machines, the first of which by the way had a manufacture date of two and a half years earlier, and asking what might be going wrong in the assembly factory, i was rather abruptly told that there is 'no problem' and 'we never have any trouble' followed by 'the factories are the equal of European ones'.
I think at that point, probably foolishly, i gave up with them, not sure how to prove the rust was there from the start. As for the casting sand and swarf, well i don't recall raising any concerns about that. I always check for it and have always found it in every enclosed type gearbox on machines from Taiwan and China that i have owned. I have two horizontal bandsaws [not Warco machines] and the gearboxes on both contained some. But it was a bit excessive on the lathe.
The Sale Of Goods Act posted by some is an eye opener, but how many of us in our daily lives are aware of its details, and would or should have to use it like a stick to beat a retailer with.
The 'Mines alright and you should have bought something else' brigade should remember it is not the purchaser who is responsible or to blame for choosing to buy machinery that turns out to be faulty. And as for 'Getting what we pay for' well i think the claims made in the printed advert and verbal assurances is what we pay for, Whatever the asking price.
Edited By Lathejack on 26/11/2010 03:38:06
|Thread: CT 918 - any comments|
The 918 lathes, first made in Taiwan and later China, have been around for many years and are a copy of the origional made in Austria Emco Compact 8, not to be confused with the current Compact 8E which is itself made in China.
As usual the Far East gives you a bit extra for your money and include a nine position quick change screwcutting gearbox and a longitudinal powerfeed built into the apron indipendant of the leedscrew thread. So you can change from a fine feed to a thread pitch and back again without having to constantly alter the change wheels, which are usualy made of plastic. There is no power crossfeed.
There is no method of reversing the leedscrew, and one of the main problems seems to be the rather weak two bolt fixing of the topslide to the crosslide. A very popular mod is to convert the topslide base to a four bolt fixing which can improve the ridgidity and turning finish a lot. They all seem to use a threaded spindle nose instead of the often fiddly plain flange of a lot of todays bench top lathes.
There must have been quite a lot of producers of the 918 in the Far East as quality and small details vary a lot. Some i have examined have been quite tidy machines and others very rough and ready.
If you do an internet search for '9x20 lathe' this should provide a lot of infomation on problems and mods. The machines seem to be very popular in the United States and are usualy referred to as the 9x20.
Hope this helps.
Edited By Lathejack on 21/11/2010 00:21:30
|Thread: Quick Step Mill.|
I have seen it on the Hemingway website and i did notice the three position dial on the side, but the info there isn't very detailed and didn't confirm anything. Sometimes products change while adverts still show outdated images and descriptions, a bit like Warco's brochures, so i wasn't sure.
Very interested in the photos. I think the Hemingway product is a finished item rather than a kit, and with an internal gearbox no wonder its expensive.
Edited By Lathejack on 17/11/2010 18:15:34
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