Here is a list of all the postings Lathejack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Mill Issue|
As well as the belt drive ZX15 mill Warco did briefly offer the XZ15 mill which was a Chinese made six speed geared head machine that is a similar size to the Emco FB2 copies, although the base casting, table, head and other parts are a little different.
It could be either the ZX or XZ as I get the two mixed up as well. I think it was at least 20 years ago that Warco offered the XZ15.
Edited By Lathejack on 13/05/2020 23:34:49
Edited By Lathejack on 13/05/2020 23:37:24
|Thread: Used Lathe Pinnacle PL1340C Gap Bed|
Apart from the centre hight and slightly different screwcutting gearbox controls the headstock, apron, saddle, topslide and tailstock look to be the same as the current Chinese made 1440 lathe offered by Warco and the Chester Challenger 1440, although apron controls may be left or right handed.
So it is possible that items such as some gears, feedscrews and feednuts from current 1440 machines will be usable, but only from similar 1440 lathes, but obviously there could still be small detail differences in components preventing direct replacement without some modification.
Not all new 1440 lathes are of the same design, some have different headstock, gearboxes, carriage assemblies and tailstocks.
Toolco also offer spare parts for 1440 lathes, although they haven't stocked the machines for some time.
Edited By Lathejack on 13/05/2020 13:34:23
The lathe shown in the link isn't a copy of a Harrison lathe, it is actually a copy of the old Colchester Student 1800 lathe.
They are not an exact copy, having simplified internals and different controls, but the headstock, gearbox, bed and tailstock castings are based on the Colchester Student 1800 lathe.
Later versions which grew to 14x40 capacity are still available new, Warco still offer it as their GH 1440 and these are now made in China. Also Chester machine tools also offered a version of it, I think called the Challenger, not sure if they still do.
They are good heavily built machines, so if it's in good mechanical condition it would be fine.
Edited By Lathejack on 12/05/2020 23:11:00
|Thread: Clarkson autolock help|
I was also told to back off the the nose piece on an Autolock chuck when I started work almost 40 years ago, but it is certainly not the correct method and is unnecessary and not what the designer and manufacturer intended, and I never do it.
The nose piece with its collet should be screwed and nipped up fully up to the shoulder and left there. Then the cutters are screwed fully in until they tighten up, the collets will fully lock automatically when cutting, hence the name Autolock. The shoulder is also a register to square up the nose piece, and the radial register will centralise it to ensure that cutters run true.
Posiloc milling chucks work on the same principle, but the nose piece is located by a taper at the bottom as well as a radial register. So when the nose piece on these is fully screwed up there is always a large gap below the unused shoulder.
I think the upper threaded collar on Steve's Morse taper Autolock chuck can also be used to eject the chuck by screwing it up against the spindle after the draw bar is released.
Edited By Lathejack on 29/04/2020 15:44:43
Edited By Lathejack on 29/04/2020 15:46:46
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
Yes I agree, that just about sums up how I feel. In the UK up until around the early 1980's we had a great selection of Japanese bikes to choose from, they produced a bike to suit every one. I lost interest in most new bikes from the end of the 80's when the bike shops were full of mostly race replicas or trail and US chopper style bikes with silly exaggerated styling......Yuk!
I have at times even considered buying a new Jawa 350, just for one last chance to buy a new traditionaly styled air cooled two stroke twin like those of yesteryear, but I just don't do the mileage to justify it.
Well this has reminded me that I made a start on a magneto remagnetiser almost six years ago. I bought a roll of insulated copper wire and machined up a pair of mild steel cores and cut a slab of mild steel for the base, I then machined up a second set of cores of a larger diameter to those shown, but I haven't got much further with it yet.
Apparently soft ingot iron should ideally be used for the coil cores because of its low carbon content, so it does not retain any magnetism when power to the remagnetiser is switched off, unfortunately it is quite expensive at this size but mild steel is usable. I downloaded and printed off the instructions and have them filed away somewhere.
Edited By Lathejack on 15/04/2020 22:01:17
Edited By Lathejack on 15/04/2020 22:05:58
|Thread: Motorcycle General Discussion|
I think those new RE 650 twins are great bikes, if I still did a lot of mileage on bikes I would certainly order a new one. The seat looks a bit flat and shapeless, not that it matters when your sat on it while riding if it's comfy. The 48 BHP is just right, and is about what a British 650 from the late sixties produced.
As for the primary and timing being on opposite sides to tradition, I don't think it is done simply to differentiate the new bike from the old. I think it's done for sound engineering reasons, and I wish my old BSA,s were done that way. Most Japanese bikes have been built that way for donkeys years. With the primary drive and clutch on the right, and the generator and final drive chain and sprockets on the left.
So on old Jap bikes and the new 'RE twin it takes just minutes to get to the final drive sprocket should it need replacing. Compare that to the traditional Brit bike with both the primary and final drive on the left. To get to the gearbox sprocket first drain the primary oil then off with the cover, then the clutch pressure plate and plates followed by the clutch centre. Then remove the alternator stator then the rotor, then pull off the primary drive sprocket together with the clutch drum and primary chain. Then extract the clutch hub from the gearbox mainshaft. Next remove the circular plate from the crankcase to finally gain access to the gearbox sprocket....hurah! Now put the whole lot back again, good grief!
By the time you've completed the job on the lovely old Brit bike the chap on the Jap bike or this new 'RE twin will have long since finished doing the same job, been out for a glorious ride in the sunshine, met folk and made new friends, then returned home and sat down with a drink with their feet up to ponder on a pleasant days activities.
Having said that, I do like my old British bikes and wouldn't have anything else at the moment.
Edited By Lathejack on 12/04/2020 12:23:14
Edited By Lathejack on 12/04/2020 12:32:36
|Thread: Mystery Tool.|
Yes, you have to question BSA's logic in fitting a 12000 RPM Tacho, and without a redline, onto the relatively fragile B25 engined bikes.
This Tacho and its matching Speedo are the 60 mm diameter type that were also designed for the BSA Fury & Triumph Bandit DOHC 350 twins, they were also fitted to some Ducati singles. There are still plenty of these NOS Tachos about, but the matching Speedo is harder to come by. The Speedo I have just bought only shows 6700 miles but has an alarming amount of wear around the spindle, allowing the needle to slop about all over the place, although the rest of the internals are in excellent condition. The only reason I dismantled the perfectly working Tacho was just to see how the needle spindle was supported, so I could then attempt to repair the Speedo.
I also have the 1971 Victor Trail version, this is a standard and totally factory original example showing less than 1700 miles, a really great bike to own and ride.
Adrian was there pretty quick, followed by a few others. I made this tool specifically for removing the needles on some Smiths speedo and tacho guages for my 1971 BSA 250ss Goldstar.
Edited By Lathejack on 02/04/2020 19:33:35
Can anyone guess what this little tool is used for?
It's actually a tool I made myself a few days ago, it's machined from a piece of 3/4x1/2 inch key steel. The threaded screw is a high tensile M5 capscrew with a knurled bronze thumb wheel added. The end of the screw is machined to form a tiny pin 2.5 mm long by 0.7 mm diameter.
|Thread: Machine feet/mounts?|
I bought quite a few of the M12 threaded adjustable mounting feet from Warco over ten years ago, the type with the ball socket so the foot can seat flat on an uneven floor. They are adjustable for hight but are really designed to fit in a threaded hole, they are suplied with a single locknut but the lower hexagon is integral with the shank so adjustement isn't possible if they are used in a plane hole, unless they are fitted with a second nut as I had to for use in my Warco 1330 lathe.
The Warco 1330 requires six of them, they work perfectly well and are more than man enough for the job.
|Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918|
That 7 1/4 inch independent 4 jaw chuck was standard issue supplied with most new 918 lathes. They are awkward to use for metal work because the jaws are not positively or precisely located in a tee slot, I think they are actually really intended for wood turning lathes.
Edited By Lathejack on 11/03/2020 22:44:53
|Thread: Does anyone watch Ades workshop on you tube|
Sorry I was mistaken, the E type Tom Senior mill is the one with the round verticle collumn but which stil has the same quill feed swivelling milling head. I saw the recent posts showing a close up photo of the Tom Senior that was for sale and didn't look close enough and assumed it was the E type model.
Anyway, you've got yourself a fabulous machine.
Edited By Lathejack on 10/03/2020 00:23:40
Edited By Lathejack on 10/03/2020 00:25:08
Yes I just found Ades Workshop recently, I enjoyed his strip down and rebuild of his new Warco milling machine, a WM16 I think it was.
Is your newly aquired Tom Senior the E type that was shown on this forum recently? If so your a lucky chap, very nice machines for the home workshop.
Edited By Lathejack on 09/03/2020 23:24:38
|Thread: Cheap drill bit sets|
Dormer Drills used to have a factory here in Worksop, just a couple of miles down the road from me. It closed down some years ago and I think the buildings were demolished.
I can remember using some Nachi drill bits at work about 25 years ago, which I think we're made in Japan, a couple of the larger one broke near the 3 morse taper revealing a very course grain structure.
Edited By Lathejack on 09/03/2020 22:57:01
We buy new Dormer drill bits at work, from 1/16 up to 1/2 inch, these are mostly made in Brazil and are always excellent, but they sometimes turn up made in the UK and also Spain.
At home I also have sets of the low cost drill bits that I bought several years ago, 1-6 & 6-10mm in 0.1 steps, which both come in a nice fold up steel box and cost around £18 per set.
These are still quite good drill bits having a bright ground finish shank and ground flutes, but the cutting face on the end has clearly been ground by hand held methods. They all cut but the point is not always central due to uneven grinding of the cutting edges, which results in an oversize hole if drilled without a pilot hole, one of the 6mm drills produced a perfect 1/4 inch hole.
|Thread: Amadeal Lathe failed - customer service appalling!|
I have seen the same problem with a new Clarke CL500 combo machine at a Machine Mart showroom in Mansfield. The headstock spindle was stiff when rotated and very notchy, so possibly the taper roller spindle bearings were full of muck or more likely way over tightened with preload. It certainly wouldn't have worked well at all, or for very long, in the state it was in.
|Thread: warco lathes.|
Yes I did have to fix the faulty carraige lock on my 1330 lathe, it's a stepped steel plate but I cannot remember if I remachined the original one or made another, it was over 14 years ago when I did it. I also fitted an adjustable 'Bristol' type handle while I was at it.
The lock is well in from the edge of the saddle and I'm sure you can't get at it without separating the apron from the saddle. I fixed the lock on mine when I had the apron off to fix a manufacturing fault on the power feed shaft gearing at the back, and also the saddle off to correct the dreadfully rough bearing surface of the vee way on the under side of the saddle that was beginning to damage the surface of the lathe bed after only several hours of use.
I've had a Warco GH1330 for over 15 years, it also has the apron handwheel on the left side with the powerfeeds lever and leadscrew clasp nut lever on the right side. I would hate it to be the opposite way round, and I am right handed.
I find it far easier and natural to control the carraige when using powerfeeds or screwcutting with the control levers on the right hand side of the apron using my right hand. The carraige handwheel is only really used to quickly bring the carraige into position, or to quickly rough out a very short length of machining on a component, so it's position on the left side is unimportant, or is that just me!
My old Smart and Brown Model A lathe also thankfully has the apron handwheel on the left side. The Chinese lathe manufacturers do produce machines with the option of the apron handwheel on the left or the right. I remember that for many years most of the lathes offered by Chester Machine Tools had the apron handwheel on the right, while the equivalent lathe from Warco usually had the handwheel on the left, such as the Chester Crafstman and the discontineud Coventry machines which were the equivalent of Warco's BH600 and GH1322 & 1330 lathes, not sure if that is still the case.
|Thread: Should my pistons be round|
The Pistons for my BSA's are slightly tapered, being round at the crown across the piston ring lands and oval towards the skirt. The oval section is narrower across the gudgeon pin axis, and wider from front to back at the bottom af the skirt, which is common on many Alluminium alloy Pistons for internal combustion engines.
I remember the oval pistoned NR750 road bikes when they first appeared, I think they cost around £37,000 back then, with a Titanium ignition key costing about £200 for a replacement, if any owner ever actually used it.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.