Here is a list of all the postings Lathejack has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Hobbymat MD65 clone tailstock alignemnt|
Clones of the Hobbymat MD65 were produced in China, I think listed as the BL130 or something similar. I examined one at a machine tool dealers some years ago, it was marketed by Chester machine tools. It had the same paint job and info plate as a genuine Hobbymat and looked just the same, but was rather rough and ready with poor detailing.
Warco also once sold a version of the Hobbymat that looked quite good, but this one had two round bars for the bed, one larger diameter than the other.
|Thread: Boring bar toolpost.|
Yes I know that a little off centre is not a problem, and that perpendicularly is important, you're right, and I agree. As I previously mentioned, the fixture ensures that the cylinders are bored square to the base mating face. But it also ensures the bore is on the original centre line, regardless of how important that is.
The bored off centre cylinders were square to the base, and appeared to have been running happily in that state. There's usually enough clearance between gudgeon pin bosses and the sides of the conrod little end for a little side to side offset, and a little front to back offset certainly won't matter, but there is no reason not to try and bore on the original centre line if possible.
The BSA cylinders are still on standard bore, but worn.
Yes, but you also said that you wouldn't use that tool to bore the cylinder unless there were inserts suitable for Alluminium available for it. Which suggested that you thought it was going to bore out an Alluminium cylinder.
We still use these types of inserts on various cutters at work on Bronze, Alluminium, Cast Iron and various grades of Steel, with different grades of inserts still available.
Edited By Lathejack on 03/11/2019 19:34:55
The cylinder Barrell is light Alluminium Alloy, but it is fitted with a cast Iron liner that is to be bored out by 0.5mm. In any case the cutting tip is simply what was fitted when I bought it.
The tee slotted crosslide shown on my Warco 1330 lathe is a Myford 280 item that I bought and slightly modified to fit my 1330 several years ago. I had planned to machine some Myford size tee slots in the 1330's original crosslide, but when I removed it I found that they have been cast with a large cavity on the underside, so machining it didn't look to be a good idea.
in my original post I mistakenly refer to the topslide being from a Myford 280, when I actually mean the crosslide.
No it's not a foolish idea. Here are two examples of an old 25mm boring bar that has been lengthened and reinforced by a length of thick flat bar at the back, and it cuts cleanly without the slightest chatter.The bores being machined on these full size Traction engine parts are deeper and larger in diameter than my BSA cylinders. I won't be doing this to my nice 32mm boring bar, but I have already started to make a sleave to stiffen it up when extended to 5x its diameter.
The boring bar I have is 32mm. The bored out cylinders I've had in the past were upto 20 thou off centre, so not ideal. I'm certainly not risking my precious BSA cylinders being done the same way.
i have also bored out motorcyle cylinders on the lathe before, including two stroke cylinders with all their ports. The lathe does a perfectly good job whatever the bore being machined is for, as long as the tool is ridgid enough and the lathe cuts parallel.
Holding the cylinder in a fixture mounted on the headstock spindle will ensure that it is bored accurately on the centre line, and also bored square to the cylinder base mating face.
I have come across several cylinder barrells that have been bored off the original centre line, even though they were machined by firms using equipment made for the purpose.
Well there lies a possible snag, I had it in my head that the ratio was 5:1 so this boring bar would be right on that limit.
I had been looking for a bar of 40-50mm diameter, but all the used ones I have looked at so far have been worn away in the area below the cutting tip.
While the bigger the better for this job is true, it doesn't require going as far as a 3" bar. The 1330 lathe is heavily built and more than up to the job of holding and machining the light alloy cylinders bore out by 0.5mm, once I have made a suitable holding fixture.
Edited By Lathejack on 03/11/2019 10:15:03
For quite some time I have been meaning to make a toolpost to take a large boring bar, to be used in place of the topslide and its toolpost for a far more ridgid setup.
I finally completed one during the past couple of weeks, starting with a block of 80mm square black bar for the body, and some 15mm thick steel plate for the base. The body and the base were both machined on all faces then dowelled and bolted together. The hefty lump was then bolted to the lathes tee slotted crosslide and the bore for the boring bar was first drilled and then finished with a between centres boring bar gripped in the lathe chuck.
...............The base is secured to the body with five high tensile M8 cap screws, plus two dowels. A key is also fitted to locate in the tee slotted crosslide. The lathe is a Warco 1330 but the topslide is a Myford 280 item that I modified to fit several years ago.
...............The completed toolpost after slitting one side and fitting three pinch bolts to clamp the boring bar. I was originally going to use a slitting saw in the mill but in the end I used my 7x12 bandsaw. The boring bar will be used to bore the cylinder on my BSA B50...........
Edited By Lathejack on 01/11/2019 19:54:40
Edited By Lathejack on 01/11/2019 19:56:40
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2019|
We have been making good progress at work with the restoration of the Burrell engine. Here is the fully restored crankshaft complete with eccentrics and a fresh paint job. I remachined the main and big end journals on our old Churchill lathe a while ago.
...............I also remachined the original big end and small end bearings, along with the very hard steel gudgeon pin..................The crank being carefully lowered into position.................The engine was treated to a full set of newly manufactured gears for the steering.
.................Plus a full set of new gears for the drive train from the crank to the rear axle. The new gears were manufactured by Bell Gears of Sheffield. The large gear on the new rear axle is a new casting for which new patterns had to be made.................The gear cover refitted, a chap called Tony has been doing all the relining, and Kevin Grey retubed the boiler. Tomorrow we will be having a steam up and will be taking it for a test ride through the village. It's not a bad day job really!
FullaFlava, that's a very nice little globe valve, is it sat on the bed of a Hardinge lathe?
|Thread: Backplate debacle|
Yes I agree, I would leave your backplate as it is Martin, there is nothing wrong with it at all. I have fitted several new chucks of different types over the years, and a few of them were new TOS three jaw chucks that always needed an undersized register machining on the new backplate to get rid of the 1 1/2 to 2 thou runout in the chuck when fitted to a firm fitting register.
|Thread: My new lathe a Warco 918|
I have always had a soft spot for the Far Eastern made 918 and 920 lathes, they have been produced for many years and offered by many suppliers with some examples being quite well made. Early version were made in Taiwan, but I'm not sure if yours at 21 years old is made in Taiwan or China.
The 918 was based on the earlier Austrian made versions of the Emco Compact 8 lathe, in Emco language Compact means basic. So when I was a lad I was always impressed with the 918's addition of a Norton type quick change screwcutting gearbox with 9 feed rates with a row of 9 little cup oilers sat on top.
Plus the 918 also has a longitudinal power feed built into the apron, so you can quickly flick from a fine feed to a thread pitch and back again, and only need to engage the leadscrew thread for screw cutting.
Edited By Lathejack on 05/07/2019 12:50:44
Edited By Lathejack on 05/07/2019 12:51:44
Edited By Lathejack on 05/07/2019 12:53:23
|Thread: Myford vmf style (KF-VO-A2F)|
Even if it doesn't have the factory fitted gearbox type power feed it is still probably made in Taiwan. Only the model with the ram mounted head had the table power feed on early versions.
Anyway, they are all good machines and I have seen several for sale over the years, but they were always a bit too far away for me. I would have liked one to replace my smaller VMC that I have had for 20 years.
Edited By Lathejack on 05/06/2019 09:54:14
Edited By Lathejack on 05/06/2019 09:55:00
Edited By Lathejack on 04/06/2019 21:26:05
The early Taiwanese made trio of Warco turret milling machines of the 1980's are very good, they are the same as the three Myford machines, the VMC, VME and VMF.
The castings on these early machines are quite substantial, with very wide saddles, deep knee castings and broad columns. They had a quality fit and feel, with a nice scraped finish on the exposed guideways of the column and the top of the knee.
The later versions of these three mills sold by Warco used rather spindlier castings, I have one of them, and although they are still good machines they are just not quite as good as the earlier ones.
So if the Warco machine you have been offered is in good condition then they are certainly worth buying. The 1986 Warco version of the Myford VMF should also have the factory fitted gearbox type power feed for the table which was not fitted on later examples.
|Thread: Smart & Brown Model A|
S&B produced some MK 2 Model A lathes built onto the MK1 cast iron cabinate, which is what my machine is. The later MK2 cabinate has all the controls mounted higher up, so you don't have to keep stooping down to adjust anything.
The old flat belt to the spindle on my Model A hasn't given any trouble, it is smooth and quiet. The reason a flat belt was used by S&B was to give a smooth drive from the motor and gearbox mounted in the bottom of the cabinet, without transmitting any vibration to the headstock spindle. That, along with the adjustable plain spindle bearings should give a fine finish on the workpiece.
I own a Model A that I've had for years, a great machine. Being a toolroom lathe it is built like a tank and is rock solid.
I think mine is 1957 vintage, and shows no signs of wear at all. It is 4 1/2 inches centre hight but will swing about 9 1/2 inches. The width of the bed at 9 1/2 inches is more than twice the centre hight. When the crosslide is wound back far enough to machine at the maximum swing the cutting tool is still sat within the width of the bed, not overhanging the edge of the bed, so it cuts beautifully without trying to flex the saddle or twist the bed. So they are really nice machines to use if they are not badly worn.
The cabinet is made from cast iron which also adds to the rigidity of the lathe. If the capacity of 9 inch swing by I think 20 between centres is enough then they are great for the home workshop, but being a proper toolroom lathe they are a bit heavier and little larger than some general purpose workshop lathes of the same capacity.
|Thread: Chinese Lathes|
Well despite having serious faults with my Chinese lathe purchased new around 15 years ago, I really like Chinese lathes. Thank heavens they bother to make all the lathes and other equipment they do, we can now all afford to have a dabble in machine tools, and with all new stuff as well. They make a machine for all circumstances, so if you live in a flat on a tight budget there is a lathe and mill to suit you...great!
Ok, there may still be some faulty or shoddy stuff turning up now and again, but overall I think it's mostly pretty good gear that does its job.
My Chinese lathe and Taiwanese milling machine now blend in nicely with the British machinery I have in my workshop, all doing what they are supposed to in perfect harmony.
Edited By Lathejack on 08/05/2019 09:54:01
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