Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Run capacitor value .Bench grinder|
Try rs components, not the cheapest, but they are quick and you know what you get will be OK
|Thread: Low cost forge blower|
Ah yes Grandpa Amu, amazing guy. His sawing skills blow my mind, how on earth does he saw so straight. For those who have not seen him **LINK**
I am quite envious of him, having a place he can go out and do all that without some landowner or doogooder coming along and complaining. That sort of "could I start off from zero" really interests me, computer games are never quite hard/realistic enough.
What a wonderful company name "Aldays & Onions" they don't make company names like that anymore.
As so many of us are always interested in a bargain, you cant get a forge blower much cheaper than this.
I have now progressed from being binge watching Engles Coach Shop to this guys videos.
|Thread: How easy is it to make a chain sprocket?|
I found this, it is a picture from above and clearly shows a block chain **LINK**
Do you really need a sprocket cutter? I have seen descriptions of making sprockets with a drill, hacksaw and a file. I would think they would be quite simple to make using an end mill and rotary table.
Ahha, it is called block chain. Looks like 1 inch block chain is still used too. This bike site has some pictures of it **LINK**
On this site **LINK** they still sell it, interestingly it looks like they make it from standard chain components. They just stack up the center plates to replace the rollers. So If you wanted to make a 1/4" version you could dismantle a 1/4" chain and reassemble it without the rollers.
A pure guess. In the evolution of the chain, for me it would make sense to have made a chain with a solid links that are joined using side plates. This would explain why sprockets had every other tooth missing as the chain only had a hole between the solid links. When the roller chain came along, if the pitch was the same it could run on the old sprockets. So maybe either the sprocket design took a while to catch up with roller chain, or the original chains were replaced with roller chain.
|Thread: Parting tip breakage|
The way the tool sprang to the left and back looked rather odd. In slow motion it looks like the tool was pointing slightly to the right then twists back square. I suspect the cross/top slide has a lot of play in it. Another possibility is the spindle bearings are worn or the lathe is not rigid enough and the work climbed over the parting tool. Also from the swarf it looks like he was cutting harder when it broke.
Unless of course he was moving the saddle to the left.
Reminds me of trying to part on my worn out 1912 vintage Drummond, I had that climb right over the parting tool and stall on top of it.
|Thread: milling machine which one ?|
I have just been through the process of choosing a mill. For me it eventually came down to SIEG SX2.7L or SIEG SX3. In the end I bought the SX3. Mostly as I wanted a mill a little bigger than my existing one and the SX2.7L was the same size.
I have just finished a strip down and clean, which I highly recommend doing, and I have just measuring it's specs. So far I am pleased how well it is built.
I bought it from ARC along with a starter set as I wanted to get the vise and clamping kit. I have not measured the vise yet, but it seems to be well built and the clamping kit looks OK.
|Thread: Workshop Gloves|
It is possible to get gloves designed for working with lathes etc. **LINK**
If you don't want to wear gloves but want to keep fingerprints off your work, there are finger gloves.
+1 for barrier cream I have a tub of Rozalex next to the workshop door, turn the alarm off and put it on. By the time i remember what I was doing it is dry.
|Thread: Optical Chucks|
If you fancy a project, MEW issue 98 pg 44 Simple Prismatic Centre Finding Microscope
|Thread: Problems bending 3/16" dia copper pipe without kinking|
I wonder if you could fill it with water, freeze it and then bend. Or possibly a sugar or alcohol solution which would freeze to slush.
Edited By AdrianR on 30/05/2020 16:25:52
|Thread: New Lathe - cleaning the oil off|
I just finished my new mill. Paraffin, tooth brush, couple of rolls of kitchen roll torn into quarters.
I would also take the top and cross slide apart to clean the muck out of the slides, threads and bearings.
Moly grease to reassemble and as said above oil it.
I put a magnet under my paraffin pot before poring it away, I am glad I took the advise to strip and clean, this was just from the quill and fine feed.
Edited By AdrianR on 29/05/2020 07:39:26
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
At last, finally finished cleaning my new mill, very happy I did due to the amount of muck I got out of the bits that shouldn't have muck in. It is now all clean, greased, DRO fitted and bolted down.
Now I need to tidy up the workshop and perhaps I should also clean the windows etc like George, there was a definite hint the other day.
|Thread: Lathe motor|
I have a Kenwood Chef 902, it has an electronic speed control with speed feedback via a magnet on the end of the motor shaft. The speed is varied by moving the whole PCB to/from the magnet. If yours is like that you would have to work out to extend the speed control knob to where you can reach it.
It should be possible to reverse the motor if it is the same as the 902 as the field and commutator are on separate wires.
This site has some pictures and the circuit diagram **LINK**
BTW the speed controller has a habit of failing. There are people supplying a small kit of components to fix the PCB. The kit I got from ebay also had new brushes too.
Edited By AdrianR on 28/05/2020 18:54:22
|Thread: Repair advice, please!|
Looking at the drawings above, that looks like it could be fabricated out of 3" OD, 1/4" wall steel tube. m-machine-metals can sell you 76.2mm OD x 6.35mm wall for £17.83 + P&P
Blimy I manged it, helps if you put your hand between your eyes too
|Thread: Experimental Vibration Analysis of a WM280 Lathe|
I had a go with my phone and a FFT app. Had to put sticky tape over the microphone so it only picked up vibrations.
My lathe vibrates at 100, 200, 300, 600Hz. I am sure is all from the induction motor as it does not change when I stop the chuck.
Quite surprised by the the energy in the higher harmonics, just occurred to me it could be the back chip guard ringing. Will have to check that.
This check did make me take notice of the lathe noises, I realised my motor belt was too loose and slapping against the casing. Ho hum
|Thread: Model engineering on BBC2|
I just found this youtube play list that explains how the machine works. **LINK**
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