Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Storage of files|
I have to admit mine live in a draw under the vice. The advantage of a draw is it automatically sorts files so the most commonly used are at the front. I do worry about them getting knocked together, but I take care to not rattle them together too much.
One day I want to start a new draw, so I can have a set for ferrous and non-ferrous.
|Thread: calculation for a sine bar|
When I was at school I had Miss Clarkson as my teacher. A woman who struck fear in all the kids. Tweed clad, Short, rotund with a mop of grey hair Einstien would have been proud of. To finish the image off, she had a witches wart complete with hair on her nose.
I had trouble remembering the trig formula until I made up Some Old Hag (Sin = Opposite/Hypotenuse) Can Always Help (Cos = Adjacent/Hypotenuse) To Oil Aircraft (Tan = Opposite/Adjacent).
I now look back on her with fondness, she went out of her way to get me into A level maths after failing my O level. She even gave me lunchtime lessons three days a week.
I too am thinking of making an arbour, what is the best steel to use without hardening or grinding?
Well the value 18.23 is right for 16.51 degrees but I don't think the angle is correct. I think it is 16 degrees 51 minutes which is 16.85 degrees. That would give 18.61 mm
Does anyone definitively know the angle as I have seen some other forums arguing what the angle is.
What is the centre distance (hypotenuse) on your sine bar?
|Thread: Removing gunge|
I doubt you will have any luck with acetone if it is delrin as it is resistant to most common solvents. Nylon will dissolve very slowly in delrin. I would be tempted to try burning it off, then any char can be removed with a wire brush.
|Thread: Tangential Tool Holder|
What about diamond paper? **LINK**
|Thread: Ford Quadricycle|
Good old Henry, built his own quadbike. Then had to grow up so started a small automobile company.
Your image links come up with an error for me.
|Thread: A red face and a bottlejack|
Put a clause in your will, they don't get a penny unless they can raise and lower the jack
|Thread: Parting off|
I have never been too happy with the standard eclipse parting tool. I know it is not an answer to your problem, but recently I bought a Soba parting tool from Chronos **LINK**
I had seen a few USA people raving about T shaped blades with chip breakers. For some reason, they are hard to get over here.
You still have to take great care to get it at centre height and square, but the swarf is folded in on itself and comes out in a neat curl.
To get mine square, I loosen the tool post and move the carriage so the blade just touches the front face of the chuck. With a bright light under it and a magnifying glass, I can get it perfectly square.
As others say, slow steady and plenty of lube. I use a neat oil soaked toothbrush just above the blade. It catches any swarf stuck in the groove and gets the oil down in the groove.
|Thread: Keeping Shop clean|
I have an upright Vax whos roller brush bearings were melted to a solid lump thanks to too much wife hair. The brush motor has been removed and is in the "this will be useful" box, and the vacuum sits next to the mill and lathe. The hose extension it came with gives me the reach to get everywhere.
I also use a lot of newspaper, amazon packing paper and cardboard. A rather lavatorial image, but I have torn sheets of newspaper into 1/4s and have a wadge of it hanging on the end of the lathe. Just handy to tear off a to place over the sideways, cross slide or mill table etc.
Sheets of cardboard are cut and ready to go in the drip tray. When they get too mucky they get pulled out and dropped into the waiting tough tub that lives under the lathe.
I also get through a lot of very cheap kitchen roll, being tight, the sheets are also torn into 1/4s before use.
I stop a lot of flying swarf from the lathe with a piece of paper stuck to the edge of the chuck guard. It hangs down the front and works wonders for stopping brass and cutting fluid.
Mill swarf is still a works in progress, I have a few ideas but not got round to them yet.
|Thread: Seig X3 has died|
To check for poped windings, you can use an ohmmeter across it and turn the rotor slowly. It should measure the same resistance all the way around.
From the picture on the ARC site, the board looks quite simple so if you can find an electronics guy it should be fixable.
But the link above, £25 for a controller, if the motor is PM it is almost worth just giving it a go.
|Thread: Can you guess what this object is?|
Well from the image I can say it is unusual in that it has one side, two edges and four corners.
|Thread: stuck chuck again|
My local motor factors is open, you may find yours is too.
I have the same lathe as Howard, I keep a 30mm sq x 300mm length of beach in my drip tray. Tighten it across the jaws, grab both sides of the v belt in my left hand and wallop the wood with a rubber mallet.
As Howard said, the trick is the follow through.
If your chuck is regularly getting stuck it sounds like something is wrong. Maybe a very light stoning of the register faces to see if there is a burr. Or check the threads for roughness or imbedded swarf. Then of course there is the debate to oil or not oil. I wipe it dry each time i fit in the belief oil helps it tighten more than it helps it loosen.
|Thread: Collets: 2MT direct or ER?|
I am no expert, and I am sure someone more experienced wil have better arguments, but here is my pennies worth.
Re 3 jaw chucks, don't get your hopes up about new chuck accuracy. From what I gather from this forum and books is that 3 jaws in general are quick and dirty. If you want to re-chuck, use a 4 jaw. The exception to this is if you have an adjustable 3 jaw, where you can re-center the work by moving the whole chuck.
Re collets, it all depends on what you make. If you are likely to often work with bar between 33mm and 41mm then go for the ER40. I don't have lathe collets, but am looking at getting them. For me I would be interested in smaller sizes than large. I more often have trouble holding small items than large. I already have ER25, so will use them, but if buying new I would go ER32.
After looking at the same options as you, I have decided on a backplate mounted chuck. I will probably make it myself and buy a nut. That way I have the same access to the spindle bore as a normal chuck.
|Thread: Jonathan from Yorkshire|
A warm welcome from to the forum from sunny salubrious Skegness.
I too was worried about security when I joined, but I found that if you go to Settings->My Profile you can set a Nickname. Then from then on people will only see the nickname not your real name.
|Thread: Good way of attaching instructions to a painted surface|
I recently discovered that you can get water slide decal paper for your inkjet. Apparently print what you want, spray with clear spray varnish and put on like the old fashioned water transfers.
You could put another couple of costs of varnish over it after it has dried.
|Thread: Run capacitor value .Bench grinder|
Gerald you can get a 2.5uF CBB61 on ebay **LINK** that says it is a uk supplier
FYI any 450V AC 2.5uF Polypropylene film capacitor will do.
Edited By AdrianR on 04/06/2020 17:30:35
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