Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Is this a plug tap|
Well, just to add to the confusion, our transatlantic cousins apparently call second taps plug and plug taps bottoming. I wonder how many plug taps we buy are really second taps.
Of to the grinder I go.
I need to tap an M3 thread for 4.5mm in a 5.5mm deep hole. For this I thought I would need a plug tap, So I bought one, and I was surprised that it has a point at the end.
I was expecting a plug tap to have a square end. When buying it I had a choice of taper, second and plug, to me this looks like second. Am I wrong in expecting a square end?
I dont think it means parachute but chute as in coal etc.
I dont speak german, but if you google "gefälle steigung" and then translate the page you get this **LINK**
Which is a site that calculates the same things as the Nivellator
|Thread: Trembling laptop|
I have found that some people can feel these currents others can't. You are one of the (un)lucky ones who can. The picture looks like it is an original PSU so design-wise should be fine, but four years of unknown abuse could cause a little extra leakage. The number of times I have pulled a blistering hot PSU out from the sofa cushions, darn kids!
If you have the funds, for peace of mind pick up a good quality replacement PSU, Looks like you can pick one up for about £20. Avoid the generic bargain bucket PSUs, they are built down to a price and often are just the safe side of lethal. But any 20V 3.25A (probably 3A too) will work as long as the plug polarity and type is correct. The little diagram after the 3.25A shows the + is the pin and the - is the ring.
Oh incidentally as I found out after finding a server I was working on gave me the trembling feeling. The equipment can be perfectly earthed, it can be the building that floating.
Edited By AdrianR on 15/07/2020 12:42:02
|Thread: We need Pi|
Hopefully promotion of his book and patron page dont fall foul of the new rules.
Edited By AdrianR on 05/07/2020 18:06:36
|Thread: Voltage feeding DRO "usb" digital scales?|
The chipset used in the senors is designed to run from battery e.g. in digital callipers. For low power consumption, you need to use lower voltages and smaller components in the ICs.
Examples of low voltages for power saving are the voltage on phone CPUs is below 1V, the latest ones about 0.7V and PCs are about 1.3V.
|Thread: Poor mans mill feed speed control|
While twiddling my knob thinking of other pastimes two things occurred to me;
A quick trip to the Android Play Store and I downloaded the free app "Simple Metronome" Which incidentally has a handy flash the display on the beat feature.
So now If I want 140mm/min with my 2mm pitch lead screw I set the BPM to 70 and twiddle away in time with the beat.
For really slow feeds it is worth having two beats to the twiddle.
Next on the world domination list is make a MIDI-controlled mill.
|Thread: Mill unexpectedly cutting crooked|
All my tests were with the spindle, Z and X all clamped down. Have not tried it with a loose spindle.
I have discounted a bent cutter as I have tried 4 different cutters, 3 of them were different makes, one was brand new out of the sealed box.
Also doing two spring passes removes the undercut, so the tool must be parallel and running true.
I think the most likely cause is head vibration, the cutter gets forced away from the work while in contact and then springs back between cuts. Which is why at high RPM it cuts true, it does not have time to move between cuts and the head deflection is averaged out.
I had a look with a magnifying glass and the undercut is not straight but convex which could also be explained by the above movement.
I have done some more tests.
I checked for the work moving, it is rock solid. I also put a digital level on the head and on the work while cutting. They did not move.
I tried a 16mm cutter and see similar undercutting.
I changed from the right to the left side of the vice. It still undercuts towards the vice. ie the direction is reversed.
I tried 0.25mm, 0.5mm and 1mm cuts all gave the same undercut.
I tried using the top of the cutter instead of the bottom (tip) and the undercut disappeared. For both the 16 and 12mm cutters.
I repeated the top and bottom of the cutter using an ER collet instead of R8 collet. It cut square at the top of the cutter, so the distance from the spindle is not the issue, but the length of the cutter is.
Over the 6mm height, the undercut is 0.15mm, if I do a 0.15mm cut on an undercut edge it cuts square.
All a big puzzle, I will carry on with what I am making and report back if I find any cause.
I think I have the answer to why but just wanted to check my reasoning is right.
I was squaring the edges on a piece of EN32B 100mm square and 6mm thick. All went well and the finish was fine, then I noticed the edges were not square to the face. i.e. the 6mm edge to the 100mm face. I worked out the mill had undercut the sides at about 2 degrees.
The setup was. The piece was held in the vice on parallels with the working side to the right. This meant swarf was thrown backwards and conventional cuts were from front to back. The 12mm 4 flute cutter was in an R8 collet and was running at 800RPM. I was taking 0.4mm to 0.5mm conventional cuts.
I know my SX3 can cut square as I had just finished making some parallels and used the same setup to trim the ends. But that was using a 14mm cutter and running at 1600RPM.
I had used the speed indicated in Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook. Group D in table A on page 5.14 to find the 1600RPM. But I was not sure about running so fast and had calculated 800RPM from the 80ft/min figure given on page 5.15. I have since re-read and think I have too high RPM.
Feed was about 140mm/min.
I checked the head trimming, about 0.015mm over 200mm. I checked the surface of the parallels in the vice and they were similar. So the workpiece was flat and the head square.
Then to find the problem I tried squaring the end of a 40x6mm bar.
I then tried changing the speed, running it at 1600RPM I get square cuts even with a 0.5mm cut.
I can understand that a tool is pushed away on a deep cut and hence the need for a spring cut, what stumps me is the undercut.
My hypothesis is that the cutting edge first contacts at the bottom of the piece. Then as it rotates the cutting edge engages higher up, but at the same time, the tool/head flexes away. When the flute is passing the piece the tool springs back. This vibration of the head causes the sloping face.
Does this sound right?
|Thread: Harold Hall basic grinding rest|
I have just started on making the simple rest too, good to hear it is rigid. I was a little worried if I had made the right choice. But I thought, my grinder has two wheels, I can always use it on the rough end and make an advanced rest for the fine end.
|Thread: Change to the Code of Conduct|
Ah, this explains why a couple of my links disappeared recently. Sounds completely reasonable. I know of the product links on youtube, but must admit I take no notice of them myself. I will check before posting links in the future.
|Thread: Digital angle gauges|
I recently bought one from ARC, I am happy with it. A repeatable +/- 0.1 degree, if I need more accurate than that I would need to make an angle gauge or sine bar.
|Thread: Making Parallels|
What a coincidence, This afternoon I started making my first pair following HH's book, then come in and see this thread for the first time.
|Thread: Mono or Multi tube water heater|
A thought. As central heating boilers became more efficient they had to have a fan to ensure a draft. If you cool your exhaust too much you too will need a fan.
|Thread: Experimental Vibration Analysis of a WM280 Lathe|
Dave, thanks for the reply.
Fascinating, I had not considered that level of measurement to check the operation of a clock.
If you are using a computer that has access to the internet you do not need GPS to have an accurate clock. With the NTP daemon running your clock will be synchronized within ms to UTC.
|Thread: White wheel for bench grinder ?|
What about a CBN wheel, wouldn't that be able to grind HSS and TC?
|Thread: Wooden Gears|
Having just finished my very first attempt at carving, a love spoon as an anniversary present, I can vouch for the hardness of hornbeam. It started as a branch on my woodpile that was there for a couple of years, so was well seasoned and has come up with a great finish.
I have read when it is green it is easier to work.
Hmm, a wooden boiler, now that sounds like an interesting challenge, after all, you can boil water in a paper bag over a fire.
|Thread: Convert PDF to DXF?|
I just googled it and found inkscape too **LINK**
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.