Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Why is electricity so expensive?|
I was looking through the OFGEM graphs and there is a graph giving a breakdown of how the cap is calculated. https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/energy-data-and-research/data-portal/all-available-charts
What surprised me is that this year there was a 38% rise in Network costs, £268 to £371. Network costs are the allowance for the distribution, but why after being stable for years did it need to rise so much this year?
The cap rose by £730 but the Network Costs rose by £103, so 14% of the rise has nothing to do with wholesale costs!
|Thread: Besler Steam Airplane 1933|
This video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsgHKLRTp44 surprised and fascinated me. I had assumed steam had died out with the rise of the petrol engine.
|Thread: Dulling the shine on a stainless steel ball|
If you have a slow running motor you could try tumbling them with an abrasive. Or try electrolysis in brine, but be careful as Chlorine and Hydrogen will be released.
|Thread: LED bulbs|
They really do not like heat and overheat easily. It is all down to the light fitting, plenty of ventilation is needed.
Also, to make things worse the cheaper or extra brightness ones drive the LEDs hard which shorten their life.
Google "Dubai Lamp" then next time you visit your Super Yacht in Dubi pick some up.
|Thread: Warco BH600G - Motor hums but won't start|
I had exactly the same issue with my BH600G before I bought it. The short answer was a loose connection in the control box. After tightening all the screws on the contactors the motor started up normally.
First are you sure it is the motor, when applying power to the lathe, if all the safety switches are closed you get a clunk as the main contactor closes. No clunk then a safety switch is open. There is a small hum from the 24V transformer all the time.
If I remember right (ref pg 65 of Grizzly manual) the problem was the overload contactor FR had worked its way loose from KM1 (top left)
FR hangs under KM1 and is held in place by being screwed into T1, T2 and T3 on KM1.
In normal operation K3 (top right) closes, then for Fwd/Rev KM1 OR KM2 close. For testing, it is possible to push the centre of KM1 OR KM2 and start the motor.
The motor has connections U1, U2, V1 and V2. In the control box U1 = Neutral and on KM1 T1 = U2, T2 = V1 and T3 = V2
When running Fwd
U2 = Live
V1 = Neutral
V2 = Live
When running Rev, V1 and V2 are reversed.
U2 = Live
V1 = Live
V2 = Neutral
BTW It does not like starting from cold at a high spindle speed, releasing the belt tensioner lets the motor spin up to speed first.
Hope it helps
|Thread: Changing my Email client|
I used to use Thunderbird and found it very good, but now I just use the web clients for Outlook and Gmail. That way I get access on any device, assuming I remember the password.
|Thread: Setting up a Warco BH600G|
I have a BH600G (SN 0013) and so I could have more bench space I put it in the middle of my workshop. The guy I bought it from had it against a wall. The only reason you need to go round the back is to adjust the belt tension, but that could be done from the end with a fiddle.
The Warco manual is useless if you really want it I could scan you a copy. What is better is the Grizzly manual, PM me your email and I can send you a copy of that.
My stand did not have adjustable feet, I bought some but after mounting the lathe on the stand it was so wobbly I was scared it would topple over. I ended up bolting it to the floor instead.
For levelling, I considered putting shims between the lathe and stand but found it easier to put the shims under the stand.
The first mod you should make is to get a 6L milk bottle and cut it down to make a drip tray for the gearbox, as it does not have a bottom!
Edited By AdrianR on 16/03/2022 14:27:23
|Thread: Converting brick outhouse to (very small) workshop...|
As others have said, watch out for dampness, if you can paint the outside. If you decide to insulate put a plastic sheet on the warm/inside of the insulation. Insulating and draft proofing the door and roof mIght be the quickest wins but remember some ventilation too.
If you use a dehumidifier get a desiccant type as they will work at low temperatures.
To help keep thieves out, at least board over windows and strengthen the door. In my old workshop, I replaced all the hinge and hasp screws with bolts and used lock nuts on the inside.
|Thread: Embossed Rollers - Bee Keeping|
I don't know much about 3d printing but there are several pages on google about 3d printing with beeswax.
Another thought I had was if you can get a foundation sheet and some silicon moulding rubber you could make a mould and then just cast one-sided sheets. Then just use two back to back.
|Thread: Tomato seed recommendation?|
After years of failed crops outside, last year was the first year I had a greenhouse (6' x 8' I had a bumper crop of saved heritage and Gardeners Delight seeds. All of them had a hard yellow centre that never ripened, sounds like your problem. They were horrible to eat but cooked up OK after freezing.
I read somewhere that it might be due to getting too hot. This year I am thinking of looking for a greenhouse variety, perhaps Alicante.
Any advice would be welcomed, I can't stand the lack of taste in supermarket tomatoes.
|Thread: How can I bond ABS (plastic) to NRL (rubber)?|
Depending on your materials you may be able to use UV setting glue.
Have you looked at hot melt adhesive film? Maybe there is one that will bond ABS and Rubber.
Maybe it would be worth designing a jig for assembly so you don't need the assembly time.
Perhaps if the front side of the hinge joint rubber was pressed tightly to the ABS with a knife-edge, it would create a seal. Then the CA could be applied from the rear.
|Thread: Lathe tooling|
I have an old Warco version of the Craftsman. I am tempted by a QCTP, I am sure that good quality ones have repeatable positioning. But for a smaller lathe, I have two QCTP of different types, they are terrible. The height is never repeatable and this has made me cautious about buying one for the Warco.
I have a set of indexed lathe tools which all have the same height so I only need one set of packing and swapping tools is easy. The only time I had a problem was when I tried super cheap inserts which had a different thickness.
I leave my 4 way tool post setup with a parting tool on one side and use the other for the indexed tool. I really like the T type parting tool with chip breaker groove. Not so easy to find, but very easy to use. Look on Chronos or Excentiric Eng.
An earlier post mentioned milling each tool holder. It sounds like a good idea and I will try it out. I have a mill, but as you don't, you could always mill them in the lathe. With a little thought, you could probably do it without a vertical slide too.
A side note: My lathe has an issue with the gap bed and rack. The alignment between the rack on the bed and gap piece is not good. There is a gap between the two racks that causes the saddle to jump forward about 0.5mm. This causes a mark when doing a power feed, and makes saddle position adjustment difficult.
|Thread: Slowing lathe RPM|
Maybe the correct answer to this question would be for why did he suggest that you need a slower speed?
|Thread: Head or quill feed when slotting|
I have two mills, an old Emco clone and a SX3, both shake violently when using a two flute, it's so bad I don't use two flute anymore. Three and four flute cutters are fine, and now I am only buying three flute cutters.
I also found that the SX3 Z Axis gib was far too loose, I think it was about five turns on the adjustment to get it to lock.
I used a wooden leaver to lift the head, and a dial gauge to measure the play between the head and column. It now has about the same play as the X and Y. It has improved the finish greatly, I must admit I have not tried a two flute cutter since adjusting it.
|Thread: Tea cup scale|
Over the years I have noticed one thing about my wife's and my teacups. Her cup developed a scale that had to be scrubbed off, my cup didn't. I have always thought it was due to me taking sugar. Now thanks to a recent blood test I have given up sugar and now both our cups get scaled.
Just wondering has anyone else noticed this?
|Thread: Anyone updated to Windows11 yet ?|
Well, I doubt I will go to W11, spending a couple of thousand pounds to get a new gaming rig is not on the cards.
Professionally I worked with Linux, and the only reason my home PC is windows is that I play games and inertia.
Now games and applications are far more likely to have a Linux version or Wine/Proton will allow a Windows program to run on Linux. So I expect at the end of W10 support I will switch to Linux.
|Thread: DRO Z axis|
I too have all 4, I tend to use the Z more than the quill. Yes you can read the quill, but can you control it accurately? I know I can't. Yes I have a fine feed on the quill, but there is so much play in the feed that when not under load it drops.
I don't regret getting the Z, and it is much cheaper to buy a 3 axis compared to replacing a 2 axis with a 3 axis.
|Thread: internet cable|
Cat5e and Cat6 are both rated for 1000Mbp. You will not gain any extra speed from Cat6 unless you have 10Gbps interfaces, which is very unlikely. Most domestic routers I have seen are only 100Mbs and I expect your internet connection is even lower than that.
Indoor/outdoor rating is not that important if the cable is sheltered, more important is that the cable is shielded, but then you need to have the right sockets that can ground the shielding.
I doubt you are getting close to the 100m limit or that your environment is particularly electrically noisy, so you probably only need the single foil wrapped type (FUTP), not the type where each pair is wrapped.
Have you thought of using HomePlug/PowerLine/TP-Link? A lot easier than drilling holes in walls.
|Thread: Threading myth .... busted!|
Funny, I didn't get that from the video. The point I thought he was making was that both sides of the tool cut when using a 29-degree compound.
|Thread: Parting off help!|
I am completely sold on T shaped blades with a hollow top. Similar to the ones Eccentric Engineering sell, although I have a SOBA 1/2" from Chronos. The swarf is folded slightly which makes it narrower than the slot so less chance of jams. No worries about grinding the top rake, and the tool is held at 0 degrees so no height issues.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
Sign up to our newsletter and get a free digital issue.
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.