Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: An Electric car from The early 1900's|
Absolutely amazing car, I am not a car nut, but I defiantly would love one of those. Pootling down the Lincolnshire country roads to the shops would be a pleasure.
It could be useful. There is no scale to the 3d model so you would either need to know one of the original dimensions or add something to the scene of known size before photographing. Also, the accuracy is only as good at the image resolution and number of photos. So I would not expect to be able to measure high accuracy. I could see it being great for castings. building the 3D model then printing it as a lost PLA form.
Wow that is impressive stuff, I don't think mine will be half as impressive. Hopefully, today will be a good day for the lighting. So far it is a nice light overcast day, so far I have had shadows or varying light levels due to clouds.
I have just started playing with photogrammetry which is where you can build 3D models from multiple 2D images. I have known about this method for years, but I had not realised quite how advanced (easy) it had got. I thought it might be of interest to others here.
I don't have a CNC or 3d printer, but my neighbour has a large CNC for wood, and my objective is to copy a small bass relief in brass to a larger wooden version.
I am using the open-source project Meshroom which I am quite impressed with.
|Thread: Endmill smear of metal|
I find I tend to feed too slowly or vary during the cut, what I did was download a metronome app. I set it to tick at twice the speed I need to rotate the feed. Then just follow the ticks top, bottom, top ... when turning the feed.
|Thread: Water based rust inhibitor|
If i want to dry something quickly I rinse it in meths or acetone. This absorbs the water and then the solvent evaporates much quicker.
|Thread: Low cost swarf guard/dovetalk protectors for Mini Mill?|
I have the SX3 and could not justify spending even more on the bellows. I have a roll of 100mm DPC leftover from building the workshop and I have made similar covers for my lathe.
They do not help with the floor but does keep it out of all the working parts of the mill. The ply is from the packing crate. For the floor I made a duck board so at least I am not standing in swarf.
The Z-Axis is held on with self-adhesive magnetic tape.
The table front and rear covers are screwed on.
Note: I also made stops for the Y axis which were sadly missing from the original spec.
To keep the adjacent benches clean I am planning on buying the clear plastic strips used for freezer curtains and making a semicircular curtain attached to the bottom of the head.
Edited By AdrianR on 10/03/2021 09:55:29
|Thread: What is running-in oil?|
I did not know what is special about it, but I just did some googling. Seems to be a mineral oil with a lot of anti-wear zinc and not much detergent, which makes sense. I see your point about only 5L containers, you could try motorcycle repair shops, they might sell smaller quantities, or if you have a garage that does engine rebuilds go see if you can blag a mug full.
I also found it is called break-in oil if that helps.
Of course, every new car will have it in, you could always "borrow" some out of next doors new car
|Thread: Junior hacksaw blades|
I too have found junior hacksaw blades to be soft recently, but I put it down to buying DIY store blades.
A blade I have had for at least 30 years and probably came from R.S. still cuts even if a little dull. The DIY store ones are lucky to survive the first pass of the blade. I have bought Eclipse blades and they are better, still not as good as I remember them to be.
But how much of that is a rosy memory of days gone past?
|Thread: Diamond Dowel Pins|
I needed to dig out the information about Diamond Dowel Pins to give to someone and thought I would pop it on here too as they are quite useful.
They are used to allow alignment between parts where the dowel holes may not be perfectly aligned. You use one normal pin and one diamond pin.
Rather than give a manufacturer link, just google "diamond dowel pins" if you are interested.
A useful Idea to tuck away at the back of your memory for that difficult job. And if needs must they can be knocked up on a grinder.
|Thread: Sieg SX3 Machine DRO install|
Last year I wrote an article for MEW on installing a SX3 DRO, trouble is I can't find any record of sending it. Ho Hum, just asked Neil if I did.
I used the mDRO universal kit, but found most of the mountings were far too large and ended up making my own. I put the Z-axis inside the column. Having it all apart is also a good excuse to clean out the grit from all the places it should not be. X & Y I made sloping to reduce swarf build up.
|Thread: New (to me) metal supplier|
I found the details of the https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Distressed-Mild-Steel-Bar-Gun-Metal-Black-1-Meter-1000mm-Lengths-/113780630432?var=&hash=item6060f2a4c1 rather amusing.
"We also supply the same shapes and sizes finished in 'Rusty Red', 'Antique Bronze' & 'Aged Copper' (see images 10,11,12) Please see our other listings. "
Sounds just like the range I have in my workshop
|Thread: capacitance in long cables|
I don't quite understand why you think it would go to half 12v. The peak voltage on the signal cable would be dependant on the capacitance of the cable and how fast the voltages rise on the 5V and 12V. The examples I have seen on Google give capacitances of 100pF/m.
I assume the signalling you are talking about is manual on/off, not fast data signalling. I would connect a capacitor e.g 470nF on the signal wire. This would not only suppress any transients caused by the switch on, but also suppress any mains hum on the signal wire.
*** I see Joseph beat me to it with a much better explanation
Edited By AdrianR on 11/09/2020 08:28:42
|Thread: capacitor droppers and power factor|
Capacitors as voltage droppers work great at 50Hz, but are a terrible idea if there are harmonics or spikes.
I had a fancy Philips coffee machine on my canal boat, well that was till I switched from shore power to inverter. A bang and cloud of acrid smoke reminded me that I had left it plugged in.
The inverter was a quasi sine wave, the higher harmonics of the square steps in voltage went through the voltage dropping capacitor and fried the electronics.
It was still under guarantee so I took it back, a few weeks later I got a call from Philips asking how it happened. I was so impressed they were following it up I told them how it happened.
|Thread: Two factor Authentication and Ruralism|
Paypal allows you to connect a 2FA app in place of the PSD2 OTP text. You can either have the app on your phone, or you can get apps for your PC.
I used to use a Chrome extension for 2FA before I had a smartphone
|Thread: Coping with deafness|
You can get vibrating wrist bands that can alert for fire alarms and doorbells, but of course, that means she would have to wear it and recharge it. Which if she is anything like my mother was would not happen.
|Thread: Opions sought on using the USB Photo Stick for photo storage|
I am not a Mac user but at work, they used Time Machine which Mac's come with.
|Thread: Using Counterbores|
How embarrassing, having my counterbore quoted. Don't make one the same as mine, it has a numpty mistake, it runs backwards. What is worse I sharpened it three times trying to make it cut, before I realised my mistake.
Once the reverse button is pressed it cuts a perfect counterbore, lot cheaper than buying a set too.
|Thread: What Did You Do Today 2020|
Today I made an M3 counterbore, came out great, cuts wonderfully. Except for one small rooky mistake.
|Thread: Heating HT steel|
I would say it would be very unlikely to not affect its strength. The 8.8 specification is for medium carbon steel, quenched and tempered.
You also don't say if the red heat is under load or is how you are operating it.
Personally I would bin it. If it is for something critical you cant trust it, and if it is in your bits box you may end up using it for something critical. An accident waiting to happen.
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