Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Shortening HSS drills|
I have been wondering how much of a jobber drill is HSS. I am wondering if I could shorten some of my old drills to be like spotting drills or make countersinks.
|Thread: Sieg SX3 and Machine-DRO 3-Axis Kit|
I don't have Jason's experience but yesterday I took a stab at adjusting my Z gib.
I first tried using a dti mounted on the top of the head to the column about 3" up. Using some wooden blocks and a leaver lifted the head via the quill. This resulted in about 10-20thou DTI reading and a sloping noise as the oil was forced in and out of the dovetail. Definitely proved I had a loose dovetail.
I tightened the gib about 4-6 turns before the noise stopped. I then tried raising and lowering the head. I found it got tight about 3" from the top of the column. When lowering the head from the top I could feel I was driving the head down. Then it went through a short distance of sticking/jumping and finally ran free. I used a very fine diamond hone on the column to smooth out the machining roughness to match how it had worn lower down. This improved it a little, but not much.
I then tried a second approach. I mounted the DTI under the head and measured the change in height when the head/gib was locked. I knew from past experience the head moved up a lot when locked, but after the above adjustment, I only saw 0.5thou movement. I loosened the gib till I was getting about 1 - 1.5thou over the normal working heights. After this, I found I could raise and lower the head all the way to the top without tightness or any juddering.
|Thread: Recommended Beginners Measuring Tool Set|
I thought all automatic center punches were adjustable. My one can go from a flee peck to meteor crater by turning the end cap.
I have a bottle of Dykem blue, it sits on the shelf never used as I keep forgetting to get a small brush. Instead, I use cheap permanent markers (3 for £1) So if you want to use Dykem try and get one with a built-in brush.
A really cheap plastic digital vernier is also useful. Mine cost £3 from eBay, is 0.1mm resolution and lives on the bench. Great for quick checks e.g. is that bar 1/4" or 6mm and I don't have to worry about ruining it.
For dividers go for spring dividers, they have the adjustment screw and are much easier to set. Another useful tool is an Odd Leg Jenny and likewise, go for the spring version.
Unless you are a CAD wiz, an Oxford Helix maths drawing set.
|Thread: Painting staircase spindles|
I have not used Floetrol, but I have used a similar product from the same company for oil paints and it was superb. Having struggled with these new-fangled water-based paints I would defiantly give Floetrol a try.
I have had some success with using a synthetic brush, pre-wetting the brush with water and using a very fine spray of water on the surface prior to painting.
Apart from that, I take my glasses off and it all looks perfect.
|Thread: How to countersink on a Mill?|
Blimy they sure do have tough gliders where you fly if those are the countersinks for the skin rivets
Thanks for the video, I actually searched your youtube to see if you had an example of countersinking. Being able to see and hear the machine defiantly makes a huge difference. It was watching your videos that finally made me choose the SX3.
The 12.4 looks much better, and of course, is not so obvious when you make it too deep. I was aiming for 14mm as that is what is on Howard Halls plans and I am trying to push myself to work accurately.
I guess using the quill instead of the Z feed, has the advantage that pulling the handle down is also pulling the head down too.
I have plenty more csks to do, I will give the quill a go.
Yes the SX3 has a tapered gib. I thought I had adjusted it right but I am unsure. The X/Y are easy as you can use a DTI to measure the 'wiggle'. With the Z, having the weight hanging makes it hard for me to tell if the gib is adjusted correctly.
I have a Sieg SX3 and recently bought a set of single flute countersinks from ArcEuroTrade.
Today I tried to use them for the first time and I am unsure if the problem I had is me, the mill or the countersink.
I was making a 14mm diameter 90-degree countersink on a 6mm hole in BMS. I selected a 16.5mm countersink, mounted it in an R8 collet and lowered the head till the cuter was just starting to shave the hole corner.
From here I calculated that I need to cut 4mm deep to achieve a 14mm countersink.
I ran the cutter at 150RPM and with plenty of cutting oil started to lower the head. It cut easily till about 2mm deep ( measured 10mm dia) It then started to get a little more difficult so I raised the speed to 300RPM. It then was cutting better to 3mm deep (measured 12mm dia) After this it did not want to go deeper, I had to give more feed to get it to start cutting again. Like I was having to drive the head down, not just lower it.
Then cut quickly to 4mm deep. But the hole diameter was only 13.5mm dia. I had to give it another 0.5mm feed and it again suddenly started cutting with a thick swarf curl. This time it took the countersink to 14.5mm dia and the finish was very rough.
I have looked at the cutter, it appears as good as new, with no sign of wear. So I am wondering is it me? Have I approached it the wrong way?
I was trying to feed it down not too slowly, probably about 0.5mm/second. But I did lift it to check the cut and re-oil.
In the end, I was defiantly getting the impression the mill was not rigid enough, the head was visibly moving side to side, and I suspect was lifting relative to the feed screw. Could it be the Z dovetail is too loose? Just how do I check the play on the Z axis?
Is single flute the wrong sort of cutter?
|Thread: Taplin twin|
There is a marine taplin on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194101736538?hash=item2d315d745a:g:jkgAAOSwcINgkrZZ
|Thread: Split block QCTP|
Thanks for the replies guys, the John Stevenson design looks interesting too.
I know the merits of plunger vs wedge have been gone over before, but I found this QCTP on ebay.
It seems such a simple design, and easy to make but I can't decide if would lose too much rigidity?
Does anyone have experience of this type?
In the advert it is described as a Tes Toolpost, what does TES mean?
Edited By AdrianR on 09/05/2021 12:00:35
|Thread: Disposing of Gas Cylinders?|
Depending on where you live, you may just be able to take them to the local recycling center.
|Thread: I dropped it|
I always think the issue is that dropped items always drop and then move to a different unexpected location. Now if we could persuade them to move to where we are looking we could find them easily.
My suggestion is to mount your floor above an array of subwoofers. The subwoofers will induce large vibrations in the floor and cause the dropped items to jiggle. By controlling the amplitude and phase of the vibrations across the floor it would be possible to cause the items to migrate to where you wish to look.
Some background reading on how it works https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernst_Chladni
|Thread: What to do when you lose something|
Today I finally got round to putting an old glass cutter back together. It has been sitting in meths for the last two weeks trying to get what looks like varnish off the little wheels.
On cleaning the second wheel, scratching it with my nail made it shoot off like a tiddlywink. I hunted around the bench to no avail. Resigned to only having 5 wheels I continued. When on the last wheel I noticed sitting next to my hand the errant wheel.
What gets me is how those pesky little elves/gremlins/gnomes etc manage to put it there without me seeing them do it.
|Thread: Use of small rotary table limited by lack of end stops|
You could make two narrow strips (5mm) that go round the table. At the ends silver solder small blocks that are drilled and/or tapped to allow the bands to be clamped tight.
Add a post close to the table that the blocks will hit then adjust the bands to act as end stops.
You could add fine adjustment screws too.
|Thread: How Do I Open Walker-Midgeley Documents Please?|
I always use my browser to view PDFs, I Use Chrome but FF and Edge will also work. Just drag and drop the files to the browser.
It is also possible to set the default application for files, In file explorer right click a pdf then select Open With/ Choose another app. Select the app you want to use and check the box Allways use this app.
|Thread: Stand for milling machine|
Depending on your workshop construction, tieing to a wall can work wonders for rigidity.
My mill is 160Kg. I made my stand from 12mm ply sides and 50x50 mm timber for the corners, with the top 2 layers of 18mm ply. I left the front open for draws and shelves, so it did need the wall tie to stop rotation.
|Thread: Eueka! - Has music been redefined?|
I am very glad to hear 1) You have heard of Shazam 2) You used Shazam as a verb 3) It did not match
I am afraid my grubby fingerprints are all over the Shazam recognition system.
The Google system and the Soundhound system are both prone to odd matches, I would blame one of them.
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