Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Parting off help!|
I am completely sold on T shaped blades with a hollow top. Similar to the ones Eccentric Engineering sell, although I have a SOBA 1/2" from Chronos. The swarf is folded slightly which makes it narrower than the slot so less chance of jams. No worries about grinding the top rake, and the tool is held at 0 degrees so no height issues.
|Thread: Moving machines|
+1 for an engine hoist to lift them, but you do need to invest in good slings and also you will need rachet straps.
Remember engine hoists can only lift the rated weight when the arm is at its shortest. This limits the height you can lift too. Also, remember you will need to consider the length of the chain hook and slings and ceiling height.
For moving them I suggest you use skates. I have two, each rated at 250KG that are about 50x30cm. They are only plywood with casters that I bought from Aldi. I could not move the engine hoist when my lathe was on it, but with the skates it was super easy.
|Thread: Barbeque Time|
Vic oh Vic you had to just go and mention the B acronym.
|Thread: Pulley size help required.|
Assuming someone had it working at some point in time, could it be that either the belt has stretched/worn or is the wrong belt fitted?
Do you have any speed plate or table of speeds? you should be able to calculate the correct diameter.
|Thread: Wolf Jahn 6mm Lathe Headstock problem|
Re the oil hole, have you tried putting oil in the hole to see if it comes out in the bearing? Might be a recess around the bearing to act as an oil reservoir.
|Thread: An interesting device, on ebay|
The scars on the nose seem to be at regular angles, I wonder if the threaded bit is a gland for hydraulics to increment a rotation. The angles look to be preset at 30, 45 and 60 degrees, could it be for sharpening/making countersinks?
|Thread: Steam Canoe Machinery|
If you are making and not buying the hull, could you not scale it up a little to increase the displacement?
I assume displacement would go up with the cube.
Not sure where you are in the world but 60Kg is too low for Europe. See https://www.worlddata.info/average-bodyheight.php
For the UK male=86.7 female=72.7
|Thread: New member Lincs area|
Welcome, I'm not so far from you in Spilsby.
That is one serious nibbler!
|Thread: Kennedy Hexacut Model 90|
I have a Model 60 with similar wear, and I have been trying to figure out how to fix it too. Recently there was another thread about a Hexacut 90 where someone showed pictures of milling the guides. I have not worked out how to mount the guides and frame on the mill so have not tried it yet.
I have been considering fabricating a new blade frame that at the top has a plate wider than the guides. Then on the plate create guides that work on the outside of the rails. For the guides, I am thinking of using small ball races.
My concern with this approach is the increase in the weight of the reciprocating parts.
I would be interested in how you fix yours.
|Thread: Kennedy Power hacksaw|
My Kenedy is in bits at the moment, but there are good pics of the dash pot connection on http://www.lathes.co.uk/taylor/page2.html
|Thread: DIY Rotary Quadrature Encoder|
Great work, I looked at those data sheets a while back to learn how sensors worked, good to see an implementation.
|Thread: Turning Cartwheels|
I have seen those sorts of wheels before but never thought about them till now. I have been watching EngelsCoachShop it's amazing how cartwheels are made. It just dawned on me that construction is so similar to a wooden cartwheel. The triangular sections are just a combined felloe and spoke. It could be that the hub is not cast around the spokes but the spokes are slotted into a hub, then a tire shrunk on to hold it all together.
|Thread: Shortening HSS drills|
Well I never, learn something new every day, just watched this,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u6ADHf3nvIs shows them treated in salt baths.
Looks a lot simpler than what I read for the HSS hardening and tempering process.
The reason I was looking at modifying them is that I have inherited both my fathers and stepfathers drills. I have defiantly also inherited the packrat gene and can't bear to throw them away. A lot have worn sides near the tips, but nearer the shank they are fine. I don't have stub or spotting drills so thought it could be a good way to be trendy and upcycle them.
I always thought drills were made in two parts and welded together. It seems that would be easier than trying to do HSS heat treatment at one end of a drill.
|Thread: How to countersink on a Mill?|
Well, I checked out the Z-axis and found I had more play than I thought on the dovetail. The mill now feels 'better'.
Using the quill was a success too, 12.4mm cutter 200 RPM and 3.5mm depth, perfect flush screw heads.
Thanks for the advice.
|Thread: Model Turbines|
I don't understand why you kept the boiler pressure at 20PSI instead of opening the valve fully. If you had the valve fully open, would you not have been able to measure the pressure at the turbine and calculate the efficiency?
|Thread: Shortening HSS drills|
Hijacking my own thread, the last time I dealt with Young's modulus etc was 1982 at uni.
I am thinking of making a QCTP and holders. I understand hardening would reduce the wear and I could live with a little wear, but would unhardened be strong/rigid enough?
I have been wondering how much of a jobber drill is HSS. I am wondering if I could shorten some of my old drills to be like spotting drills or make countersinks.
|Thread: Sieg SX3 and Machine-DRO 3-Axis Kit|
I don't have Jason's experience but yesterday I took a stab at adjusting my Z gib.
I first tried using a dti mounted on the top of the head to the column about 3" up. Using some wooden blocks and a leaver lifted the head via the quill. This resulted in about 10-20thou DTI reading and a sloping noise as the oil was forced in and out of the dovetail. Definitely proved I had a loose dovetail.
I tightened the gib about 4-6 turns before the noise stopped. I then tried raising and lowering the head. I found it got tight about 3" from the top of the column. When lowering the head from the top I could feel I was driving the head down. Then it went through a short distance of sticking/jumping and finally ran free. I used a very fine diamond hone on the column to smooth out the machining roughness to match how it had worn lower down. This improved it a little, but not much.
I then tried a second approach. I mounted the DTI under the head and measured the change in height when the head/gib was locked. I knew from past experience the head moved up a lot when locked, but after the above adjustment, I only saw 0.5thou movement. I loosened the gib till I was getting about 1 - 1.5thou over the normal working heights. After this, I found I could raise and lower the head all the way to the top without tightness or any juddering.
Want the latest issue of Model Engineer or Model Engineers' Workshop? Use our magazine locator links to find your nearest stockist!
You can contact us by phone, mail or email about the magazines including becoming a contributor, submitting reader's letters or making queries about articles. You can also get in touch about this website, advertising or other general issues.
Click THIS LINK for full contact details.
For subscription issues please see THIS LINK.