Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Will cash become obsolete ?|
As Ady1 eluded, yes cash will disappear as there is big money to be made. We will get it weather we want it or not due to the power of advertising convincing the masses.
We will all end up paying for it, the 1% to 5% transaction fee comes ut of our pockets not the retailers.
Being a relative newby I would recommend the following;
After that just buy things as you need them.
You also need to find what rocks your boat. Models, engines, tools? So find a few small projects to make. A tailstock die holder and a wobbler steam engine is a good start.
|Thread: How to make a silver steel axle|
The oil should be OK, it is Morris ISO 68 that I use on my lathe, no nasty yellow metal eating additives.
The silver steel is from M-machine, it was what I was expecting, nice and shiny with a smooth ground finish. Not polished, more of a brushed look.
This is what I am making **LINK**
I drilled the bush at 5.8mm and reamed to 6mm, and it looked pretty good to me. So I dont think it was a bad finish in the bush.
When I run the engine the oil goes black, just like using metal polish. That is why I was wondering if people polish the shaft before fitting, just to remove some of the sharp edges on the ground surface.
Maybe I should stop being tight and by some bronze.
In my wobbler engine is says to use a silver steel axle in either a brass or bronze bush.
I did not have any bronze so used CZ121 brass but the bush seems to be wearing faster than I would expect. In about 1hr it has gone from a good fit to having noticeable (an audible) side play. The surface of the silver steel has a ground finish and I am wondering if it should be polished before use. Or is using brass really a bad idea.
I am using SAE68 oil.
|Thread: Meccano spring drive belt|
Hi I am making a small wobbler and want to use a Meccano spring drive belt on it.
I have just ordered the belt and it is 1.5mm dia, but I do not know what V to cut for it.
The plastic round belts seem recommend 35 - 40 deg V. Does any one know what it should be for a metal belt or have one they could measure?
Edited By AdrianR on 04/04/2020 08:12:42
|Thread: Mystery Tool.|
|Thread: Help with finishing Wobbler engine|
I am in the final stages building the same engine.
Don't think mine will look so fancy, well done on the build.
|Thread: Mystery Tool.|
Pure guess, it is to remove clock hands
|Thread: Source of Small Extension Springs|
Those are fearfully small springs. Ever thought of making your own?
|Thread: Gear Cutting - Pressure angle.|
From what I can see on helicron this method creates an approximation to the involute curve by cutting a number of facets on each tooth. The more teeth of the gear blank that engage with the cutter, the more facets and hence better approximation. A small gear would only have two or three facets, hence the running noise he mentions.
You could probably improve small gears. If at the end of the full gear rotation, with the cutter engaged with the gear, unlock the indexer and move the cutter height. 1/2 tooth up, re -ut all teeth, 1/2 tooth down, re-cut teeth. That way you would cut more facets.
Probably easier to make a set of involute cutters.
I guess the edges of the facets would wear quickly so it may run OK after a while. I guess they would be ok for light duty and low speed gears.
|Thread: Virtualbox advice|
I would say to get it running try and use NAT first.
Check that Virtualbox is NATing/Bridging you wireless card and not the wired adaptor.
Does your VM have any network devices?
Does the network device have an IP address?
If you do try using the ping cmd from a terminal shell to check you can reach your router. e.g. ping router_ip_address
I have not used VirtualBox, I use VMware Player, so cant help too much with the specifics.
|Thread: Good reading from DYSON.|
I had a DC01 with a lifetime guarantee, I'm still alive, it is not. It ended up needing regular major surgery. In the end I decided it was cheaper to buy a VAX instead of keep replacing the bits.
The motor still runs, in fact it ended up being a blower for my sons furnace.
Would be unfortunate if they offer a life time guarantee for the ventilators.
|Thread: Magneto spanner?|
Well if you want an answer ask your wife, I just did. Terry's numbers are not BA although other spanner makes did mark them BA. She can't remember why they are just numbered but No 8 is a 4 BA. Also Magnetos either used BA or BSF threads.
Good when you marry an ex-biker who repaired magnetos with her step dad. Embarrassing when she pounces on some poor unsuspecting biker and informs them what is wrong with their classic bike.
Edited By AdrianR on 30/03/2020 16:27:40
|Thread: There is always one|
Well there is a plus side to all this, the CNC mill in the classifieds, I am sorely tempted to buy it, but of course I can't go get it. £1800 pounds saved and I dont have to justify it to the wife.
|Thread: Boiler making advise|
Thanks for the advice.
I am going to make a myfordboy vertical boiler. It is 2.5" dia 5.5" long with a 22mm central flue. It has two bushes at the top and two in the side.
I have a Sievert Cyclone 3524 burner (3KW) and have CupAlloy 455 silver solder (low temp)
From what I have read I should do a two step braze. First the end caps and flue using a higher temp solder, then the bushes using a low temp solder.
My questions are;
Would a 3KW burner be hot enough to use a high temp solder?
Would it be possible to solder the whole boiler using low temp solder? i,e, do the bottom, then the top and its two bushings, and finally the side bushes.
|Thread: Toilet roll hanging|
Ah now I know my next project will be.
|Thread: Soba parting tool|
I just tried out my new parting tool from Soba being sold by Chronos.
I am really impressed how well it works. The blade is a T shaped and has a U shaped chip breaker ground into the top. This means you only have to grind the front face to sharpen it, and the tool is held horizontally against the work.
Setting the height is a puzzle, top or bottom of the U? I decided to go for the bottom. My first test was to square up the end of a 22mm brass bar. I managed to cut about 0.5 - 1mm thick slice off. OK it deformed into a saucer shape, but the end of the bar was nice and square.
The swarf came off as a long ribbon and I had no squeal, I think I could have even used the power feed.
I bought the 10mm blade version, it is a little small on my lathe. Soba also make a 1/2" and 3/4" version which Chronos don't stock but I hope to get sometime.
My wife had me up at 6am this morning. All because I said last night that it was probably better to go veg and milk shopping sooner rather than later, as the chance of catching it increases every day.
Don't quite understand why we needed 2 1/2 hrs to get ready.
At least I now have the whole day for the workshop. I am going to start making my very first steam engine today. Just a wobbler, but t is a start.
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