Here is a list of all the postings AdrianR has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: Dehumidifier project|
Hi, I remember that article by Dave it was very interesting. It got me to thinking about my experiences living on a canal boat and trying to run a dehumidifier. In a nut shell the dehumidifier I had just wouldn't work when it was cold and damp. If it was above 20C it worked OK, my solution in the end was to stand the dehumidifier in front of the electric blow heater.
As my dehumidifier was a compressor based one, it had the issue that when the air temperature was too low, the evaporator would drop bellow 0C and would form ice. The dehumidifier would detect this and shut off the compressor till the ice melted, which meant most of the time the compressor was not running.
I think XD351 will not have too much problem with ice formation on the peltier in NSW unless it is unseasonably cold and the heat from the peltier will also help keep it all warm. Us in the UK wont be so lucky.
Since then I have learnt about a different dehumidifier type called adsorption or desiccant dehumidifier. These use zeolite which have the property that they adsorb water when cold and release it when hot. The dehumidifiers have a wheel that is coated in zeolite that slowly rotates. A segment of the wheel has hot air blown across it which dries the zeolite. The air is then recycled through a heat exchanger where the water condenses. The rest of the wheel has a fan that blows ambient air through it, where the water is adsorbed.
I just found a new (to me) item that may be of interest for the "under a cover" problem. It is a desiccant dehumidifier. that has to be recharged by plugging it in. £15 for two electriQ MD100
Could also save on the SO buying those disposable dehumidifiers.
|Thread: Surplus subjects learnt at school.|
I am sure that the proportion of the population who would argue that point is increasing.
As time has gone by I have found subjects I could not see the point of have become more important, and the ones I thought important less so.
I would love to know Latin, both to read all those old inscriptions and return a cutting response in Latin to some one who spouts it when trying to seem important.
I agree Football, complete waste of time, along with trying to hit balls with sticks, running round ovals.
Edited By AdrianR on 19/07/2019 22:03:00
|Thread: Wiggler or edge finder?|
I have just been looking at arcEuroTrade and they have two types of edge finder.
There is the wiggler with its ball ended rods and there is a more solid looking type with a spring loaded end.
I understand how they work, but I dont understand the merits of each type.
|Thread: Best way to cut HSS tool blanks from bar?|
This is a very timely thread, I received today some 6mm HSS rods that I want to cut down. Was wondering how to do it. I had heard of the stick in vice and belt it method. Think I prefer Neil's sounds a little more controlled.
|Thread: Remembering Apollo 11|
+1 for being 6
I can remember everyone coming round for both the launch and landing. The music they use for the launches still gets the heart rate pounding, that and Thunderbirds and original Star Wars.
What I really remember is being so sleepy and finding it hard to stay awake and how long they took to come out. Then the shaky climb down, and the immortal alleged fluffing of lines.
I also remember in the 70's seeing an Apollo command module in Switerland when they had t on loan. I think it was Apollo 8. When I stuck my head in it looked like someone had been to radioshack to get the components. Brave brave men.
When my son was about 6, he asked me did people really go to the moon or is it made up. When I told him we really did, he could not understand why we still were not going.
|Thread: What started your interest?|
I grew up in my dads shed and building site of a house, he was a handy man who would take on any job and learn to do it properly. Then at school the metal work class got me hooked on lathes. Mr Wilmshurst the teacher knew his stuff, but was not a patch on Mr Taylor the workshop tech. A man who was so skilled that he wore a white coat in a workshop and kept it clean no matter what he was doing.
As a retirement present from work I received a brown workshop coat, one day I hope to become skilled enough to transcend to a white coat.
Long way to go.
|Thread: Engineers blue alternatives|
For scraping I use Stuarts Engineers Blue. For marking up I use permanent markers. As my ancient and very nice smelling marker finally dried up I had to buy some more. I have found Wilko black permanent markers are very good, and they dont seem to worry too much about slightly oily surfaces. At £1 for for pens good value too.
As others have said, it does rub off but usually enough remains for me to finish the job. To clean up it just needs meths on a tissue.
Also the fact they do rub off is of use. Great for checking mating surfaces, it was invaluable when recently making a morse taper.
One day I am sure I will need to more complicated marking out, then I will buy the proper marking out fluid.
|Thread: Different ways of boring a hole|
When using a boring tool, ie a L shaped tool, it do not see any difference in either rotating the tool or work, if all is rigid and true. Any flexing in the tool will create the same sort of errors in either method. If however the lathe spindle is not aligned with the bed ways it will cut a taper. If a Mill spindle is not perpendicular it will cut a slanted hole.
However if I had a choice I would use the mill as it is the easiest method.
If using a D bit or trepanning tool that has contact on both sides of the hole, I belive it is better to rotate the work. This is because the tool will self centre to the axis of rotation and bore true.
|Thread: Any other bowmakers on here?|
I am no horse expert, but a mundane reason for using stallion may be that stallions tend to have longer tails that mares and geldings. So there is more hair to have a choice cut of.
|Thread: Osborn UK|
I have several milling cutters made by Osborn UK, old but still had the original wax coating. My first used and favourite cutter is the 1/2" Osborn. I think I have been spoilt, the new Asian ones I bought are terrible in comparison.
|Thread: Beta 1 case hardening any good|
I am looking for case hardening powder. I have seen on ebay Beta 1 case hardening powder sold by EKP supplies. Any one tried this?
|Thread: Supaburner's for Model & Toy Steam Boilers Explained|
What a wonderful idea for a burner.
I wonder if stove glass fibre rope could be used as a wick.
|Thread: air blast cooling for mill - solenoid control ?|
Ah shame, thought this was a link for a cheap vortex tube cooling unit.
Re using a misting device, I would be worried about breathing in finely atomised cutting fluid.
|Thread: More mystery tools|
Is there a hole in the end of the case to take the shanks?
|Thread: Slitting saw arbour|
I think one has to be pragmatic. I made a value decision between buying an arbour and making one.
Regarding accuracy? reading posts regarding budget tool quality, I am dubious that at the price range I would purchase at that they would be particularly accurate.
Will I make another one if needed? probably, it seemed easy enough and kept me amused for a couple of days.
I am now trying to decide if I should make a parting tool holder or buy one.
Further down the road, I can defiantly se that I would opt to buy like Howard. He is working on bigger and better projects. All comes down to ones personal priorities.
Finally got round to making the arbour. Chose mix and match all the ideas posted to make a MT2 with plug type cap. Had to limit it to only holding up to a 1/8" blade as I only had a short counter sunk screw. I tried it out and it runs true and cuts perfectly.
|Thread: In need of a steel ring 132mm dia|
m-machine sell tube 135mm OD x 120mm ID and 5 3/4" OD x 5" ID by the inch.
Edited By AdrianR on 07/07/2019 12:39:43
|Thread: How to use a round column mill|
Yes I think keeping the iron in compression is the best idea. Any internal pressure from either expanding filler (setting /thermal) or ramming is likely to burst the tube.
There is one possible problem of doing this on the ZX-16. From the drawings the tube mount to base is not the same as the FB2. On the ZX-16 it clamps to the top of the base casting, with the end of the tube directly in contact with the base. So to add the stud would mean drilling through the base casting and using a plate to spread the load
The vibration I have seen is not due to resonance. I have run the mill at a low speed with a large 2 flute and have seen the head get shunted sideways about 2mm
|Thread: Hemswell Cliff, Lincs|
Same here, it is a one off, he does not normally have machine tools. It just came with some other stuff he cleared.
|Thread: How to use a round column mill|
I would be worried where the water would go, it would take an age to dry out just through the ends. During which you could not use the mill.
A thought could be to use a dry mix and then ram it. That would put the tube under tension, but I could see that would easily deform it.
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