Here is a list of all the postings Derek Drover has made in our forums. Click on a thread name to jump to the thread.
|Thread: LNER L1 - Clarkson's designs|
I'm currently building the 5" LNER L1 to Clarkson's design (or lack of design).. and I'm desperate to get in touch with anyone who has one, or is in the process of building one as I'm getting very frustrated with the lack of detail in the drawings. At present I'm trying to figure out the valve gear hanger assembly, but there are no details on the plans, just the overall GA drawing.
If there is anyone out there who I can share knowledge with please get in touch.
|Thread: Painting problems|
I'm in the process of spraying my Simplex, I'm using Precision PAints (Phoenix), ready mixed aerosol cans. I bought three cans.. the first can seemed to go on ok, but the second and third cans (now applying the second coat), I seem to be getting air bubbles in the surface. If I'm quick enough I'm getting the bubbles out with my scalpel before the paint starts flashing off, but I'm getting really hacked off with it.
Any ideas from anyone why I'm getting these bubbles????
|Thread: Boring axle boxes|
I did it 6 months ago on my L1 axleboxes.. came out spot on !
|Thread: Simplex machining the pieces.|
The top "Tee" isnt as complicated as it first appears.. the screw-in section should be turned and threaded, then measured to allow approx 30tho ball lift . You may need to use packing washers to get this. Once you have this you know the approx position of your top bars.. cut machine and thread, then silver-solder to the first piece.
Simplex isnt quite as simple as its made out to be, but then I dont think any loco is "simple" for a beginner.. but its a good way to learn, and to end up with a loco which can actually do a good days works rather than something tiny which can barely pull the skin off a rice-pudding!!!!!
|Thread: Boring axle boxes|
Not having a clamp for a faceplate I recently machined my axleboxes thus:- Clock on the mill to locate centre point and centredrill deep enough for a pointed wobbler to locate. Place onto lathe in the 4-jaw with wobbler in the tailstock and a dti measuring the movement on the wobbler. Adjust till the wobbler says you're on the hole.
Once one is done and removed, even if you retighten the same jaws as loosened the next will require some reclocking, but with practice its pretty quick and accurate (so long as you were accurate to begin with).
|Thread: 5" Thompson L1 to Clarkson designs|
So far frames and stretchers done but to ME std widths not the plans, wheels quartered, axleboxes to my own design with roller bearings. Cylinders machined and fitted. Buffer beams thicker than on plans and buffers unscrew to aid lifting. Boiler is on order.. Oh... Smoke box is rough machined and saddle done BUT not using Blackgates casting as this is unsuitable. That's just about where I'm at.. All on hold this winter whilst I rebuild my Simplex. Del.
|Thread: The Workshop Progress Thread (2016)|
Well having moved house two weeks before Xmas, and a builder has just extended our garage, I'm now rebuilding the workshop... Walls all painted white and it's so bright with only one batten light fitted I cant believe it ! Wish i'd painted the walls in my previous workshop.
|Thread: Re-Building a Simplex Loco|
I too bought an unfinished Simplex that had been started some 20 years previous and changed a few hands... Thankfully I managed to complete it without having to bin too much, but it has taken a fair bit of re-jigging to get things to go together.. I dont think many Simplex's will win beauty awards, but when they're running well they're powerful and reliable locos.. I know mine shocked some of the gents at Bedford SME with the load it can pull.
|Thread: Bantam cock injector size|
I concur... I have a Chiverton No4 injector on my Simplex and its excellent. Cleaned regularly it gives reliable service. I'd previously gone through two other "commercial" injectors which were useless.
|Thread: Ball lift in a water pump.|
I think most people aim for about 30 tho. Any more and you loose out on the time it takes to re-seat from the lift, especially if running fast.
|Thread: blackgates engineering|
Thankfully I'm not a complete novice as I've successfully built my Simplex and was looking at the L1 as my next venture as I do like the big tank engines. Having spent a lot of time inspecting the plans I came to the conclusion that to ensure I'm going to do this right, I'd best re-create it in CAD.. at least that way it should all fit together.
There's alot of missing dimensioning.. and I don't quite trust trying to take measurements off the paper plans directly.. I also don't like the running position of the axle boxes when sprung (not enough upward travel).. so I'm redrawing with the axles in a lower position, but that of course changes the angle of the cylinders slightly... All has been redrawn and last weekend tested on a valve timing simulator (valve timing appeared to work better if the union link is extended to 1.5".
I'm a little stuck with regards the smokebox saddle, screw reverser, regulator and the bracket that holds the cross-head slide bar/radius link pivot.. these do not appear on the drawings.
Edited By Derek Drover on 10/02/2015 19:37:27
Ahh.... someone else attempting to build the L1 !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I made a general cry for anyone who might be attempting one of these as I've gained a set of the plans and am very disappointed with them. I am presently redrawing them on CAD as there is too little detail and dimensioning, and no detail at all regarding some of the items.
I've asked Blackgates for a price quote on the castings as the only way I'm going to be able to re-draw some of the items is to take rough dimensions from the castings.
Where abouts are you????
|Thread: Help with GWR 14xx 5"|
That sounds like one of the old Modelworks kits then (or one of the former names of the same company).. I would suggest getting in contact with your nearest club and seeking advice from more experienced model engineers.. these kits often require a substantial amount of "fettling" to get to work.
|Thread: 5" Thompson L1 to Clarkson designs|
Well for Xmas the dear wife bought me a set of plans from Blackgates for the Thompson L1. I'd been looking at making this my next project for some time since having completed my Simplex.
Now I'm not a novice, but I'm not an expert either, and these plans are turning my hair even greyer than they were before Xmas. I'm resorting to recreating the whole affair on 2D CAD just to ensure that I can create dimensions which don't exist on the plans.. BUT (and its a big one).. there are so many items not drawn that I'm at a loss as to what to do.. i.e. regulator, saddle, valve timing bracket, reverser and quite probably a lot more that I haven't come across... yet !
So what I'm really looking for (apart from a crystal ball), is if there are any people out there who have either built one of these, maybe have one they own but didn't build.. or who has knowledge of the design & construction to get in touch so that if (when) I get stuck I have someone who's brains I might be able to pick or share pictures etc..
|Thread: Actual size Drawings|
Cheap photocopy reproductions always change the size/ratio of the copy to the master.. they're never the same.
|Thread: LBSC Doris|
Here's a clip of me test running my Netta after its rebuild in 2011... (cab & running boards not fitted)..
|Thread: 3 1/2 Britannia|
I'd disagree... My father built his Brit back in the 70's and fitted sealed roller bearings in it.. I don't know where he got them from (I doubt he'd remember now either), but this engine still goes strong and there's little chance of the axles/bearings wearing out. It can be a fiddle finding some of the right size, but it could save a lot of work in the future.
Have you looked at "Simply Bearings" website?
|Thread: Cutting Sheet Brass|
I clamp the sheet between some strips of mild steel... there's no chance of the cutting blade eroding into the steel and it'll maintain the edge.. if you drift off a little then its also easier to file down to the steel edge.. very fine blades are necessary and it elbow grease !!
|Thread: LBSC Doris|
There are a very good range of loco's in 3 1/2 inch gauge... I have a Netta, which is a very powerful little engine.
The Doris may not be the best for a novice, but if you're prepared to take your time and learn as you go, it'll turn into a very fulfilling project.
As for other "good" loco's of this scale... There's LBSC's Maisie, Princess Marina, or personally, of the big tank engines I'm a fan of Martin Evan's Jubilee.
Have you looked at the list of engines you can get plans/parts for from AJ Reeves ?? They show some good illustrations to give you an idea of the type of loco. (There are also other suppliers out there - usual disclaimer!!!)
|Thread: Slowing Down the 920 Lathe - Issue 219|
Also agree... after a little "fettling", these are actually very capable machines, and can be picked up at a very good price on the second hand market.
First thing I did with mine was replace the topslide mount.. a simple enough job which makes a big difference. 2nd - rear toolpost for parting off. 3rd, thrust bearings and a new leadscrew/nut for the compound slide.
Am still thinking about how to do the tumbler reverse...
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